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#1: Who is still in the Supercharger Porting game? - NOTE: Ranked by who has contributed most to this thread
- Shane Horning (Clyde, NY) - @superchargedaudisport - *active participant in this thread*
- Performance Builds, "Albertaholdings" (Edmonton, Canada) - @performancebuilds - *active participant in this thread*
- VAST AZ, Marshall Roles aka "Rockcandy" (Phoenix, AZ) - website
- Mike Bunton (Plainfield, Indiana) - @_Madbydesign
- Shorties Racing (Centennial, CO) - website
- Jokerz Performance (Ashkum, IL) - website
S4Matty(I think he left the business)
-Fresh supercharger oil (there's a special procedure for this, and Jokerz will void your warranty if you don't consult with them before doing this yourself). In short, measure the amount of oil you can get out, and only replace what was removed.
-Coolant brick inspection, cleaning (if necessary), and or replacement.
-New gaskets should be planned every time the S/C is removed.
-Check for coolant anywhere in the area. Any pooled coolant or signs of coolant could be a symptom of leaky IC bricks or PCV (both common).
-Coolant brick inspection, cleaning (if necessary), and or replacement.
-New gaskets should be planned every time the S/C is removed.
-Check for coolant anywhere in the area. Any pooled coolant or signs of coolant could be a symptom of leaky IC bricks or PCV (both common).
Maintenance heaven! PCV, Water Pump, Thermostat, PCV Breather Hose, Crossover Coolant Pipe, Intake Gaskets, Intercooler Cleaning, Carbon Cleaning, Cold Air Intake Swap. A less common need/issue is needing to change the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor
Contact the vendor ahead of time and ask if they can send you a freshly ported, comparable mileage unit so you can just do an immediate swap. Shane Horning has mentioned he can sell you one he has in stock and you can send your stock unit back to him, and it costs the same regardless of what path you choose (porting yours or buying his). He also mentioned he can work with scheduling so there's a lower turn around time. Jokerz advertises 15 business days, and I'm not sure if they do any scheduling. Shane Horning mentioned a potential turn around time of 3 business days from the date of receipt - IF YOU SCHEDULE IT.
Depends on what you get done. There's different rebuild options, inspection services, painting/coating options, pulley install options etc. Jokerz has a inspection service for $150, a rebuild service for $500 (cleaning, disassembly, new bearings), and they can deep clean, pressure test, and service your supercharger coolant bricks for $150( See question #7 below for more info). Shane Horning charges $100 for painting the S/C. Jokerz offers powdercoating. Jokerz offers Griptech S/C for install pullies for $229/each.
Now - the actual supercharger porting itself from Jokerz has seemingly gone up in price since I started my spreadsheet last year. They were $1,300 earlier this year and now they're $1,575. Shane Horning was $750 last year and is now $850 (end of 2021), and $50 if you want your Throttle Body Adapter ported as well.
Then you need to consider shipping costs... You cover both sending and return costs...
Now - the actual supercharger porting itself from Jokerz has seemingly gone up in price since I started my spreadsheet last year. They were $1,300 earlier this year and now they're $1,575. Shane Horning was $750 last year and is now $850 (end of 2021), and $50 if you want your Throttle Body Adapter ported as well.
Then you need to consider shipping costs... You cover both sending and return costs...
There's not a ton of data around this. Jokerz advertises "up to" 67 hp and 36 ft. lbs; but I'm not sure if this is wheel horsepower or crank. Also up to +3 lbs of boost gained. There's another thread from 2018 where Bruno_s4 netted 30 whp from S4Matty's port job off a Stage 2 GIAC tune. Another user picked up 50-60 bhp and +3-4mph trap speed in the quarter.
Lower IATs due to increased blower efficiency (needing data/unproven - supposedly only the 'ramp up' in IATs is slowed down), more boost produced (2-3 lbs on average), supercharger efficiency is moved, and the supercharger can be spun harder. All of these combined will allow you to run a really aggressive pulley ratio and move your torque curve lower. Some 2++ drivers upgrade from their 187-190mm cranks to 194-200mm cranks to pair with their smaller supercharger pullies to make best use of the blower.
The short of it is if you're not tuned or at Stage 1, you don't really have to consider this option yet. Getting the supercharger off is actually pretty easy (30 minute job, 15 minutes if you know what you're doing and in a hurry). Porting the supercharger is more of a Stage 2, 2+, and 2++ type of thing. If you have the spare cash and you're an type of person, then go for it...
VIDEO: FCP Euro Supercharger Removal
VIDEO: Audi C7 Owners International's "This is how you replace your 3.0T Supercharger Intercooler Cores
VIDEO: FCP Euro Supercharger Removal
VIDEO: Audi C7 Owners International's "This is how you replace your 3.0T Supercharger Intercooler Cores
Yes; but, it'll be more marginal in comparison to someone who is spinning the blower harder. The best gains will be seen at Stage 2 and 2+.
It should; but, check with your tuner. I reached out to 034 and they said Stage 1 will take it just fine. There aren't special tunes for ported blowers; but, there are some tuners who have special tunes for larger throttle bodies.
They do. 1320 superchargers wear overtime; but, they can be rebuilt, and these blowers are very common and are easily replaceable with lower mileage units.
Yep! Whoever does your port job can match the port of the supercharger
Shane Horning says there's virtually no difference between a 80mm and 84mm TB; no gains were seen at lower altitudes. With a higher P/R and altitude, it may yield some additional power, though (unconfirmed). 034 designed their TB to be 84mm. 84mm is still a good option, and may be friendly for future supercharger options or folks at higher elevations.
No; but, there's power to be gained if you do. Throttle body kits narrow down to 70mm to match stock charger inlet. The porting inlet opens to ~76mm after porting, so matching something like a 034 adapter will allow for better flow. Nobody has numbers on how much power this actually nets. Shane Horning keeps an inventory of 034 adapters in stock for convenience.
They're definitely a weak link. Inspect them, clean them (if necessary), and plan on having to replace them at some point. Not sure if this is needed now that the Mahle bricks are out for $109/each from FCP Euro. I'm not sure if those Mahle bricks are any good; but, everything from FCP Euro has a Lifetime Warranty, so use at your own risk. The OEM bricks are like $260/each
A good box that should fit the unit and allow for packing is 24x24x16
Not sure about the weight of the unit; but, I think it's 35-40 lbs. [B]Complete charger plus packing plus the box is roughly 45 lbs.[B]
Cost saving tip: A lot of employers have corporate shipping rates (15-30% off), so you may want to have your employer print the sending and return labels and just pay them directly to save $30-40.
Not sure about the weight of the unit; but, I think it's 35-40 lbs. [B]Complete charger plus packing plus the box is roughly 45 lbs.[B]
Cost saving tip: A lot of employers have corporate shipping rates (15-30% off), so you may want to have your employer print the sending and return labels and just pay them directly to save $30-40.
Need more info from someone who ports
Yes, a supercharger unit can be ported poorly. From what I remember from a 034 Q&A, ports can be "done wrong." Flow matters, and turbulence from a bad port job can happen and cause a restriction.
The real downside is the unrelated costs. There's also going to be the need for supporting mods, such as cooling upgrades (Heat Exchanger, Upgraded Coolant Pump), a solution for your stock cats (moving them or doing test pipes) so they don't melt, and.... oh yeah...
More air into your motor means a larger fuel requirement. Adding E40 puts an even larger stress on the fuel system. A HPFP is already recommended for all of 034's E40 tunes. A HPFP is needed for Stage 2+ and a port, because depending on altitude users have been running out of fuel. So you pretty much have to factor in the cost of upgraded fuel components, meth injection, and an ECA (ethanol content analyzer) so you can blend ethanol. Ethanol has a higher octane, which helps deal with detonation.
Yes, a supercharger unit can be ported poorly. From what I remember from a 034 Q&A, ports can be "done wrong." Flow matters, and turbulence from a bad port job can happen and cause a restriction.
The real downside is the unrelated costs. There's also going to be the need for supporting mods, such as cooling upgrades (Heat Exchanger, Upgraded Coolant Pump), a solution for your stock cats (moving them or doing test pipes) so they don't melt, and.... oh yeah...
More air into your motor means a larger fuel requirement. Adding E40 puts an even larger stress on the fuel system. A HPFP is already recommended for all of 034's E40 tunes. A HPFP is needed for Stage 2+ and a port, because depending on altitude users have been running out of fuel. So you pretty much have to factor in the cost of upgraded fuel components, meth injection, and an ECA (ethanol content analyzer) so you can blend ethanol. Ethanol has a higher octane, which helps deal with detonation.
From user RoofRails: This comes down to the amount of material removed from the inlet to the rotor face. All of the Ports seem to remove similar amounts of material in the inlet leading up to the rotor face . Where I see the difference in more aggressive ports (race ports) is the amount of material in front of and around the rotors being removed which exposes more of the rotor face to the incoming air. This can definitely lead to more boost but this style seems to like more RPM to overcome the drag created by exposing so much of the rotors.
Yes. Some intakes can look like they would flow well; but, when you go Stage 2, 2+, or port the blower the flow actually is greatly restrictive. 034's S34 intake is designed to flow well with all applications. The logs show that my CTS Turbo Intake is fine for Stage 1; but, it may later become a restriction, so I opted to go ahead and upgrade it.
Need more info
I know MercRacing is/was working on something. I've seen something from VPS posted as well. The reality is that these kits are very expensive - $6,000 - $15,000. Even then, you're still up against the power limits of the motor (600hp at the high end) until the ring issues get solved (please save us, Port Injection!). Then... Tuners have to make the business decision of, "Is there enough demand for these upgraded blower kits to develop a new tune around this?" 034 Motorsport is very "wait and see" about this. They don't think it's realistic, given the age of the car and consumer demand. I tend to agree with them. I don't think there's going to be a large number of people looking seriously at $6,000+ blower kits. I think anyone with those means will look at a B9+ series car with all the success they're having and say, "Ya know, I can afford one of these, and the power delivery of a turbo doesn't sound so bad..." Set your expectations realistically here.
I know MercRacing is/was working on something. I've seen something from VPS posted as well. The reality is that these kits are very expensive - $6,000 - $15,000. Even then, you're still up against the power limits of the motor (600hp at the high end) until the ring issues get solved (please save us, Port Injection!). Then... Tuners have to make the business decision of, "Is there enough demand for these upgraded blower kits to develop a new tune around this?" 034 Motorsport is very "wait and see" about this. They don't think it's realistic, given the age of the car and consumer demand. I tend to agree with them. I don't think there's going to be a large number of people looking seriously at $6,000+ blower kits. I think anyone with those means will look at a B9+ series car with all the success they're having and say, "Ya know, I can afford one of these, and the power delivery of a turbo doesn't sound so bad..." Set your expectations realistically here.
Need someone to answer
Definitely a High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP), even if you're on 93 (depending on altitude).
E40 withouta blower definitely requires fuel upgrades. E40 with a blower can get pretty serious, and you need to keep track of things. If you go E40 with a ported blower with an a P/R (Pulley Ratio) above 3.2, there's a good chance you're going to have to consider Meth Injection and/or Port Injection. There's a Port Injection Kit in the works that is supposedly going to allow us to run E40 easily and up to E85, and it addresses the unavoidable carbon buildup issue that occurs with Direct Injection. When running E40, the rail pressure is very high which puts a toll on the HPFP Regulator, which causes a shorter lifespan of the HPFP housing. So expect having to change the actual HPFP at sometime in the future. The best way to monitor the HPFP is to log the pump's duty cycle, and log the car periodically (like we all should be doing)
E40 withouta blower definitely requires fuel upgrades. E40 with a blower can get pretty serious, and you need to keep track of things. If you go E40 with a ported blower with an a P/R (Pulley Ratio) above 3.2, there's a good chance you're going to have to consider Meth Injection and/or Port Injection. There's a Port Injection Kit in the works that is supposedly going to allow us to run E40 easily and up to E85, and it addresses the unavoidable carbon buildup issue that occurs with Direct Injection. When running E40, the rail pressure is very high which puts a toll on the HPFP Regulator, which causes a shorter lifespan of the HPFP housing. So expect having to change the actual HPFP at sometime in the future. The best way to monitor the HPFP is to log the pump's duty cycle, and log the car periodically (like we all should be doing)
Refer to #15, because it can go wrong. Not sure if anyone who professionally ports will give their secrets, as it'll cost them business.
DA is Density Altitude. It's NOT just elevation. It's an advanced calculation depending on atmospheric conditions, and it matters when determining your ideal pulley ratio. Running a high pulley ratio will help in higher DA; but, in negative DA it doesn't. Shane Horning says if you run Integrated Engineering E40 files in Negative DA with a high PR and an aggressive port that it could blow the rings, which is a common issue from high cylinder pressure, high temps, and/or running lean. Under excess heat, the rings grow and the gap closes and causes the rings to buckle and scratch the cylinder walls (dropping compression).
It depends. Let's start here - A 206-207mm JHM pulley is NOT more aggressive than a 57.7mm/196.5mm combo. Do the math!!! (Crank Pulley diameter ÷ Supercharger Pulley diameter) - This "just do a big crank pulley" is a common misconception I see on Facebook, where a lot of users say "it's easier and it saves u money." A 207mm with a stock crank is a 3.273 P/R, and a 57.7mm/196.5mm combo is 3.406 P/R, and it's a huge difference.
Make sure to read #22 as well, because they're related. Shane Horning also simplified finding your ideal Pulley Ratio as the following:
Negative DA: 3.1 P/R
0 DA: 3.2 P/R
1000 DA: 3.3 P/R
2000 DA: 3.4 P/R
3000+ DA: 3.4 to 3.5 P/R
Make sure to read #22 as well, because they're related. Shane Horning also simplified finding your ideal Pulley Ratio as the following:
Negative DA: 3.1 P/R
0 DA: 3.2 P/R
1000 DA: 3.3 P/R
2000 DA: 3.4 P/R
3000+ DA: 3.4 to 3.5 P/R
Need someone to answer
If you're going to be spinning your supercharger harder (reving higher through tunes, using a smaller supercharger pulley, and/or larger crank pulley), you should be changing your supercharger oil. There's not exactly a specified interval. I'd say it depends on how hard you're running your car. 70K miles would be on the safer side and 100K miles would be on the high side. Any supercharger porter will do this service for you, as it's easier to do when the supercharger is off. You can do this yourself; but, make sure you watch a video of how it's done, measure the exact volume of how much supercharger oil comes out, and only replace the amount that goes back in. If you don't, you risk damaging the blower. It requires a lot of twisting, turning, turning the supercharger rotors, etc to get any out. You can also do this when the supercharger is on the car; but, it'll require a special pumping tool/hose, and there's always the risk that you'll break a piece of that off in the supercharger. The service is like $20-30, so don't be cheap. You can use GM AC Delco Supercharger oil, as it's an Eaton product.
For the safest route to go and to get the best performance for every dollar invested
NOTE: Exhaust mods (Test Pipes, Downpipes, X-pipe/Resonator Delete, Mufflers) is "somewhere in the middle" and is kind of subjective on where it should be ranked on this list. Keep in mind that exhaust mods allow heat to escape the vehicle through higher flow/less restriction.
- New plugs and gap them to your tuner/future tuner's specifications (0.026" to 0.032" normally)
- Intake
- Tune (Stage 1) can be done here if your temps are OK. It's safer to do the next two mods.
- Heat Exchanger - stock cars can benefit from an HX upgrade, so it's smarter to get this installed before you tune it
- Coolant Pump Upgrade (CWA 100-3)
- Tune (Stage 1) - this is the more conservative order.
- Testpipes or Gutted Cats (or relocated cats) - address the OEM melting cats issue, which can totally ruin your motor
- Consider Exhaust Mods here - keep in mind that if you go gutted cats or test pipes AND have exhaust mods, your exhaust will probably sound like a trumpet.
- HPFP - consider a Cable for Logging, P3 Gauge to monitor, and ECA if you're running ethanol blends. Assume you don't have a ported blower, you can begin to run E40 here.
- Supercharger Pulley or Crank Pulley with the Stage 2 or 2+ tune - the OEM stock crank pulley is a point of failure and it's an easier job than a supercharger pulley install
- Ported Blower
- Throttle Bodies (Ultracharger or Superdupercharger) with the corresponding tune - You can consider having the TB adapter ported as well for max gains. This is best done at the same time by your porter, so they can match the necks together seamlessly.
- Getting into E40 to E85 - consider meth or port injection, depending on DA and P/R - The Port Injection kit won't be cheap; but, it'll allow you to really push into high P/R and E85.
NOTE: Exhaust mods (Test Pipes, Downpipes, X-pipe/Resonator Delete, Mufflers) is "somewhere in the middle" and is kind of subjective on where it should be ranked on this list. Keep in mind that exhaust mods allow heat to escape the vehicle through higher flow/less restriction.
Albertaholdings from Performance Builds says it takes about 30 minutes... 15 minutes if you're in a hurry...
If a mechanic is quoting you an hour to do the removal, they're criminally ripping you off.
I need to come back and do a tool list
VIDEO of removal made by Albertaholdings
If a mechanic is quoting you an hour to do the removal, they're criminally ripping you off.
I need to come back and do a tool list
VIDEO of removal made by Albertaholdings
Hold up! If you're thinking this way, you're going to pop your motor. There's some other good threads you should check out, seen below. These supercharged 3.0t motors have limits and currently we're seeing a lot of cylinder ring issues. The big concern is avoiding detonation with solid cooling, good maintenance, and quality gas. Then, you need to make sure you're getting enough fuel and avoiding injector issues so you don't lean out. More technical information is below
Resources:
THREAD: S4Matty's Supercharger and Throttle Body Porting got me 30 whp!
THREAD: Life Beyond Stage II - The higher stage development thread
THREAD: Cylinder 5 Issues (The Dreaded Cylinder 5 Misfire) / Melted Rings
VIDEO: 034 Describing their take on the Ring issues we're seeing with high HP applications, poorly maintained vehicles, and "poorly upgraded" vehicles
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Give mahhdd a deal on a ported supercharger

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