Years to Avoid

[JFK-USAF]

I asked this question in one of the A4 pages as well. I'm looking at a sub 20k short term (unless I fall in love w/ it) ride. How many miles are too many miles? Any years to avoid? Some of you probably came from the C6 and maybe C5 worlds. Any reason to fear a well cared for example of those? Thanks

[Valpo A7]

What are you after? The A cars or an S car?

For the A cars get the 3.0 and not the 2.0. 3.0 still has its issues but there are less issues plus you are starting from 300 hp and can be tuned to close to 500 hp. Timing chain tensioners, water pump, and sometimes motor mounts can be the main issues.

For the S cars the turbos tends to be issue but that can be fixed by replacing the turbo inlet oil screen with a rev G screen. The DSG trans seems to be an issues if you don’t maintain it. From what I have read fluid change regularly and clutches seems to be the best maintenance with these. The air shocks can be expensive to replace depending on what replacement parts you buy. The S cars can be tuned to over 550 hp

For the C7 and C7.5 it does not seem there are years to avoid but rather common problems big and small but fixable.

[JFK-USAF]

I think at that price point any S car is going to just be past it. A good S6 or S8 is the end destination but not until the most recent design makes the CPO market. A car for now. 3.0 is decent throughout the range?

[sepheroth86]

I have a 2012 (built in March of 2011). It has had some issues but nothing terrible. 165k on it now. Been tuned at stage 2 for around 15k miles.

I had a 2006 A6 with a 4.2 before. Car had chain rattle on startup, ran the car to 196k when I hit a deer with it.

My first Audi was a 1999 A6 with a 2.8, I recently sold it with 278k on it.

[Kolbenringe]

what years of Audis to avoid?

[Valpo A7]

The 3.0 is solid but it has a few issues. Older engines have problems with the timing chain tensioners, not sure what year the redesign happened, maybe 2017? The older engine is a direct injection that can have carbon buildup problems on the intake valves. The PCV can be a problem as can the water pump and t-stat. If you are paying for labor these repairs can get expensive since you have to remove the supercharger but if you know how to turn a wrench then it’s just your labor and a few gaskets.

Not sure what year but they switched to what is called a CREC engine and it does not have problems with carbon buildup. That might be when the chain tensioners got fixed as well, not sure

If you plan to do your own work then getting some triple square sockets will be needed. Depending on where on the car you will need short and deep heads. These are the 2 sets I bought

J&R Quality Tools XZN Triple Square Spline Bit Socket Set, S2 Steel | 10-Piece Set
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EK3TNLO...ing=UTF8&psc=1

When we got out A7 it was a higher mileage car at 142,000 miles and it has been mostly problem free. Last summer at 204,000 miles I had to pull the engine for timing chains and then broke a cat converter over the winter. Now I am at 216,000 miles and back to loving the car. My plan is to get 300k from it.

J&R Quality Tools 4-Inch Extra Long XZN Triple Square Spline Bit Socket Set, S2 Steel | 10-Piece Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JQJ36XI...ing=UTF8&psc=1

[JFK-USAF]

Wow... they should have you rewrite the maintenance manual. Apparently you've figured it out.

[JFK-USAF]

Nice. I plan on turning a few wrenches but time is short these days.

[Spitfire007]

Buy anything 3.0 and 2016 and after. Those are all CREC motors. Intercooler updates and dual injectors. More robust, more power.
Wheel bearings, engine mount issues, water pump, PCV...issues are al the same across the entire range from 2011 to 2018.
Again, 2016 was the year for the updated motor (C7.5), and cosmetic refinements.
They're all pretty good however.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Spitfire007]

Buy anything 3.0 and 2016 and after. Those are all CREC motors. Intercooler updates and dual injectors. More robust, more power.
Wheel bearings, engine mount issues, water pump, PCV...issues are al the same across the entire range from 2011 to 2018.
Again, 2016 was the year for the updated motor (C7.5), and cosmetic refinements.
They're all pretty good however.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Bike_Pilot]

I would also consider the 3.0L TDI motor. It's shockingly powerful, smooth, and efficient. Also with the emissions scandal the warranty got extended to 10yrs 120k miles for motor/emissions stuff.

[JFK-USAF]

I would also consider the 3.0L TDI motor. It's shockingly powerful, smooth, and efficient. Also with the emissions scandal the warranty got extended to 10yrs 120k miles for motor/emissions stuff.

I did hear about the warranty but do you need to buy the vehicle from an Audi dealer to get it or does the coverage just go with the VIN?

[Audibot]

I did hear about the warranty but do you need to buy the vehicle from an Audi dealer to get it or does the coverage just go with the VIN?

Does not need to purchased from an Audi dealer.

[Bike_Pilot]

I did hear about the warranty but do you need to buy the vehicle from an Audi dealer to get it or does the coverage just go with the VIN?

You don't have to buy from a dealer. It automatically goes with the car. As I understand you get the better of 1) 4yrs and 48k miles from the time the emissions flash was done or 2) 10yrs and 120k miles from when the car was first place in service. If you are considering a specific car you can send the vin to Audi via their live chat and the rep can give you the exact date and mileage at which the warranty will expire.

As an example my 2015 A6 with 20k miles has coverage until 2025 and 120k miles.

[JFK-USAF]

Thanks. I don't have a specific one as of yet. Right now I am still refining requirements and narrowing down my choices. It sounds like I should be definitely be considering TDIs because of the warranty. I would eventually look into a stage one from APR or something like that but wouldn't want to submarine a perfectly good warranty. Not a tuner boy but enjoy getting the most from my cars. My Volvo had Polestar, etc.

[Audibot]

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Thanks. I don't have a specific one as of yet. Right now I am still refining requirements and narrowing down my choices. It sounds like I should be definitely be considering TDIs because of the warranty. I would eventually look into a stage one from APR or something like that but wouldn't want to submarine a perfectly good warranty. Not a tuner boy but enjoy getting the most from my cars. My Volvo had Polestar, etc.

For the TDIs, Malone or Kerma seem to be the go-to here in North America. I am stage 2 with Malone. Rawtek and Kerma make some DPF delete downpipes, but I've found a good source of bolt-ons has been Darkside Developments in the UK. You can follow some of their work on YouTube too. I've got their DPF and EGR deletes installed, and their intercooler waiting to go on.

[Valpo A7]

If you decide to get the engine tuned and are trying to have a warranty then source for the warranty is important. I believe aftermarket warranties are okay with a tune but an Audi warranty is not tune friendly. Audi will void your Audi warranty if the dealer discovers it during service. If they have to hook up the computer to the Audi network then they might find the tune and void the powertrain portion.

[JFK-USAF]

Yeah, that's what I figured. Give them an out, they are going to take it.