2014 A6 Quattro 2.0 tfsi / Oil Consumption

[Wadeboston]

I’ve had the car about a month, and have just recorded 1 quart oil consumption in 500 miles. No other real related symptoms that I can tell, as I am getting good mileage, runs smooth, good power, no obvious smoke, and starts easy.

Clearly not happy with this level of oil consumption. Anyone fighting oil consumption on the 2014 2.0 tfsi? If yes, are you finding anything that help cut this down short of a rebuild? Engine code is CAED. No modifications. Using Castro oil synthetic 0W-40.

I did read a class action lawsuit was filed in late 2021 that covers 2012-2017 Audi with 2.0 turbo. I am the 3rd owners (lease, owner 1, owner 2) and car has 132k miles. Unfortunately I didn’t know about the excessive oil consumption at time of private party purchase, so didn’t discount price to cover the repair… darn! THanks in advance.

[sepheroth86]

I think it is common for other 2.0t Audi's to have PCV problems.

They are on the valve cover for your car, I think. So it should be pretty easy to replace. Buy it from FCP Euro so that you can use the lifetime warranty if it acts up again.

[Wadeboston]

Much appreciate… I am seriously looking for all ideas to improve. I should have mentioned in my original post, that I fixed the top timing cover leak and replaced the PCV valve before changing the oil and filter. In the first 500 miles since it consumed 1 quart!

[Valpo A7]

Yeah the 2.0 can be a oil guzzler but I was under the impression that it was fixed for the most part after the 2012 model year.

As I understand with the 2.0 Audi would do an oil consumption test and determine how quickly the engine consumed oil. Depending on this test there was some work done with the PCV system and if this did not fix the issue then they pulled the motor and re-ringed the engine. Typically this all happened when the car was still under factory warranty so the car owner was not really out any money on it. Now that the car is about 8 years old and you are not the original owner I am not sure if Audi will do the repairs or if the engine is still under any sort of extended warranty on this issue.

[19birel]

Your piston rings are likely gone, there's a lot of info on the A4 forum about it but even 2013+ cars are not safe from excessive consumption

[A665]

Yeah the 2.0 can be a oil guzzler but I was under the impression that it was fixed for the most part after the 2012 model year.

As I understand with the 2.0 Audi would do an oil consumption test and determine how quickly the engine consumed oil. Depending on this test there was some work done with the PCV system and if this did not fix the issue then they pulled the motor and re-ringed the engine. Typically this all happened when the car was still under factory warranty so the car owner was not really out any money on it. Now that the car is about 8 years old and you are not the original owner I am not sure if Audi will do the repairs or if the engine is still under any sort of extended warranty on this issue.

This is my recollection, as we went through a difficult experience with my wife's 2011 A4 2.0T once it hit about 60k miles or so. It began chugging oil at a rate of about 1 quart per 750 miles. Audi performed the consumption testing and determined it was due for the ring replacement. They did that, and the oil consumption did subside, but in less than a year thereafter, the PCV failure occurred. By then it was out of warranty and we tried this and that with an indy shop. Last repair cost us about $800. I told my wife that we were getting rid of it if that didn't do the trick. Problems resurfaced within a week and I couldn't drive it to Carmax to sell (dump) it fast enough.

[Wadeboston]

Well, I likely contributed to the oil consumption! By mistake, installed a new PCV (06H103495AK) that was meant for 2016+ vehicles. Have since learned, the correct number for this 2014 car is 06H103495AH.

Now I’m wondering is there is an advantage to keeping the AK version and paying dealer for s/w upgrade (not 100% sure this is a real option).
Or, just buy the AH part and install myself.

I did the idle oil fill cap suction test and it is definitely seeing a strong vacuum even at idle, that I assume aggravates oil consumption.

Thanks again for all input. Hoping someone is familiar with AH and AK version and possible even what SW is required for each. My engine via Carista is 4G0907115P, software version 0005, Code 4A2A0013242600062000. That may be a long shot!

[Valpo A7]

Monday give the dealer a call and ask the service guys. You might be okay with the wrong PCV if they flash the computer if that is even possible.

[Wadeboston]

Story continues. Installed what I understand is the correct PCV for this engine (06H103495AH). Unfortunately, I still see a noticeable oil fill cap suction at idle. I really don’t feel a vacuum difference between the AH and AK versions at the oil fill cap. Would anyone have the crankcase idle vacuum specification for the AH and AK? Potentially the vacuum I feel on the fill cap is normal, and has nothing to do with the oil consumption!

As a used higher mileage car, I’d like to chase this a little further before spending the $ at an Audi dealer. There are 2 symptoms… high oil consumption (with AK and tbd with AH) and noticeable suction at the fill cap.

[Valpo A7]

If you decide to have the rings done then take it to an independent shop that works on Audis. The indie will be probably 50-70% cheaper than a dealer unless you can get the dealer to fix it as part of a warranty or recall.

[Wadeboston]

Yes, good suggestion on an indy shop.

I have opened a case with Audi Customer Service, however it seems unlikely Audi will stand behind this car at this mileage. Very unfortunate as this greatly reduces the value of use Audi cars, and will erode trust in the brand.

I’m seeing some folks try BG “Engine Performance Restoration” to improve the piston ring oil control. Hoping someone can share their good or bad experience.

[KaiserMex90]

Hi Wadeboston.

Did you figure out what was the problem wirh your oil consumption and vaccum at the oil cap?
I have a 03/2014 Q5 with the same symptoms….


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[Wadeboston]

Hi KaiserMex90

The oil consumption issue continues, and I have tried 2 BG treatments and most recently seafoam to free up the piston rings. I did get the correct PCV installed and now experiencing what I believe is normal vaccum at the oil cap. The A6 really does run fine, so it is more of an annoyance and cost to regularly add a quart, which we carry a spare in the trunk at all times. Audi’s brand is being hurt by these continued 2.0t oil consumption issues, and at least informed consumers (which I was not) will push the price down accordingly.

Eventually we will pick an independant shop to replace piston, rings, timing chain, clean values and whatever else we find. Best of luck with your Q5. I understand there is a class action lawsuit in the courts for California that would cover your vehicle!

[KaiserMex90]

Did you see any improvement with the BG treatements?

I just ordered Toralin Anticarbon Piston Ring cleaner. People in Europe used this stuff to make piston soaks and they experienced a big improvement in terms of consumption. I will let you know if I'll see any improvement after using it.

My car also runs fine, idle is very smooth and also the power. I just did a compression test and all cylinders were above 175 psi.

I quoted the repair with an Indy and buying parts by my own, the total cost would be around 4,000 USD. Maybe we just should cross fingers and wait on a result from the class action lawsuit.

[Wadeboston]

No noticeable improvement after 2 BG treatments. It smelled potent and I’m sure it did remove contaminants from the engine, I just suspect the piston oil control ring is so packed it is not able to remove enough of the packed carbon. I hope the Toralin helps and would love to know how it works for you. Best of luck

[Wadeboston]

Hey KaiserMex90 - Did you have any luck with the Toralin Anticarbon Piston Ring cleaner. I’m close to pulling the trigger on a piston replacement!

[KaiserMex90]

Hi Wadebiston

I ordered it from Xado Canada, but never received it neither a refund or a response to several inquiries. They scammed me?!? And it’s not available in the US.

Where are you located? Are you doing it by your own or with a mechanic? I’m also thinking of a rebuild, but still not convinced to do it by my own. And spending 4.5-5k on a indy is a lot of money for a car that is worth 10k.


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[Wadeboston]

Darn… was hoping Toralin would have some benefit.

I totally agree $5k is too much to put into a $10k car. I just don’t like any of the other options! Really

Current plan is to work with an independent shop near Peoria, Illinois. Right now I am searching for and building up a part list for a Feb 2014 CAED engine to establish part price and availability!

[Botbasher]

Darn… was hoping Toralin would have some benefit.

I totally agree $5k is too much to put into a $10k car. I just don’t like any of the other options! Really

Current plan is to work with an independent shop near Peoria, Illinois. Right now I am searching for and building up a part list for a Feb 2014 CAED engine to establish part price and availability!

Are you positive that it's not the PCV? 2010-2012 CAEBs were the known OC bad guys. I've never heard of a 2014 drinking dino juice! My 2013 CAEB was a HEAVY drinker till I went back to a totally stock PCV (Had an Africa Plate and then a ECS Catch Can System) and it was like cold turkey! Like AA and no more drinking. Now I run dual custom catch cans and a Cerakoted Microslick valve train and I'm happy with the results. 5k miles and only 1/3 bar on the MMI!

As for the rebuild...

Really it's only about $500 in parts depending on the kits you can find and your urgency. With some sale and coupon shopping and some ePay surfing, it's easy to come in well under $1k for a respectable rebuild and mild upgrades. Knowing your OEM alternates (INA, Ering...) are key to doing it on the cheap.

I did my 2011 CAEB (drinking 1L/250mi) myself for $2300 in parts including a new clutch, metal water pump, head studs and some other go fast bits. Really what kills you is the labor and $5k is about right with the basic parts included. I was quoted $4800 by the local indy. If I sat down and did it all in one sitting, it would honestly be about 24-30 hours depending on the condition of the motor and I've done 4 of them now.

Don't skimp and do all the other high stress parts while it's open (Head Studs... Valve Springs..) if you ever want to do more to it than drive. My tuner just informed me that we have to limit mine to 400ft/lbs because I didn't do rods and pistons (just head work) when I refreshed my 2013 for a BW EFR turbo build. I should have done it... now I get to leave HP/Tq on the table because I didn't plan to get crazy!

Think of the future and do it once!

Good Luck!!!

KS

[KaiserMex90]

Hi,

I wanted to make a piston soak today with Berryman Chemtool B-12, but before that I took some pictures so I can compare it after the treatment. I noticed that the carbon build up on the pistons is different on each and that two of the pistons had a reflection surface on the outer diameter of the pistons, the side which the engine is inclined. In that moment I thought that this might be oil.

When the valve stem seals are bad, then the oil is flowing down to the stem to the pistons, isn't it? I have currenlty an oil consumption of 1ltr each 330 miles since I mix Rislone High Performance treatment to the oil (Castrol Edge 5W40). Before that the car burned 1 ltr each 250-280 miles.

I'll attach some pictures of each piston but the pistons that had the oil sitting there were #2 and #4 (counting #1 is toward the front of the car and #4 is towards back of the car).

Hopefully somebody here has some experience about that and can guide me here a little bit.

Thank you!

[Botbasher]

Hi,

I wanted to make a piston soak today with Berryman Chemtool B-12....

Applied while they are still in the block?? You are going to have a really hard time getting enough chemical past the compression rings, to the oil rings and will have no real way to remove the sludge it makes. That's why the Seafoam and others are used while the car is running. They use the movement and flowing oil to "clean" the rings.

If you do them in block, make sure you really re-oil the cylinders and manually prime the system with fresh oil before you start the engine as you are going to strip EVERYTHING keeping the metal slipping from a lot of the important parts!! It'd be worse than a rebuild start as you have no assembly lube for those first precious seconds!

The tops look very much like mine did... deceptively clean compared to what I know the rings look like when they are consuming that much oil.

Here is a clear look at what you are fighting. The pic with the new and old rings side by side explains it all. Look at the difference in hole size and how clogged they are immediately as I took them from the block. Unless you clean it out completely, you are really not winning... just delaying. Ultimately, it will happen again and again because the real issue, poor ring tension, can only be solved one way. All the reports I have heard of attempts to remotely clean are marginally successful and short lived.

20180505_133556.jpg 20180503_211950.jpg 20180507_214056.jpg

Maybe I missed something... it's an evil problem with only one real solution... and it's not a fun one! I've done 3 rebuilds due to OC now and the only long term solution for a real OC issue is pistons.

Cheers,

KS

[KaiserMex90]

I did not make the piston soak yet, but I wanted to try as I read good experience with it.

My prior post was more like a question if this oil consumption could be from bad valve stem seals intead of piston rings. I removed the plugs after the car was off for about 3 hours and then I saw oil (liquid) on the top of the pistons. I don't think that this liquid oil (unburned) was pushed to the combustion chamber through the piston rings, it's more likely dropping down form the valve stem. Would that make sense?
I forgot to mention that when I start up my car when it's cold, then after 2-3 min of idling there comes greyish smoke out and stops after driving a few miles.

Could an oil consumption like this come from bad valve stem seals?

[Botbasher]

I did not make the piston soak yet, but I wanted to try as I read good experience with it.

My prior post was more like a question if this oil consumption could be from bad valve stem seals intead of piston rings. I removed the plugs after the car was off for about 3 hours and then I saw oil (liquid) on the top of the pistons. I don't think that this liquid oil (unburned) was pushed to the combustion chamber through the piston rings, it's more likely dropping down form the valve stem. Would that make sense?
I forgot to mention that when I start up my car when it's cold, then after 2-3 min of idling there comes greyish smoke out and stops after driving a few miles.

Could an oil consumption like this come from bad valve stem seals?

It could... but in the 3 OC issue cars I have rebuilt, the valve stem seals were all undamaged (all 3 ~100k miles) so that would be my last guess. They are actual seals with spring loaded lips like cam and crank seals. Unless you ran low on oil and burned them, they are likely to outlive the car. I always replaced them, but not for any other reason than I was already there and they are cheap insurance. AoA never did stem seals on OC rebuilds, so if it didn't worry them...

20180519_120035.jpg

All 3 had wet piston tops similar to yours as well. It's unsettling, but I honestly think that it's just the byproduct of the OC process. The amount of carbon that I was getting out the tail pipe was indicative of an amazing amount of oil being above the ring. Here is a shot of my exhaust after idling for 10 minutes. You would have to have one hell of a leak at the seals to get that much oil out the pipe!

2018-02-16 07.21.16.jpg

That prior pic of my piston tops is as I pulled the head. See how wet they look? Nothing from the disassembly got on them. The car was running perfectly when I pulled the motor out!

I honestly doubt it's the stem seals, but if it is, you're still going half way down the path. Given the history of the problem with that generation of EA888 motors, you are talking about WHEN to replace your pistons, not IF. There are several things to confirm before diving in (PCV, Updated Firmware...) but the odds of that fixing an honest OC issue are pretty slim.

I've been down this road a couple times now... happy to answer questions, but don't shoot the messenger!

Cheers,

KS

[Botbasher]

... I saw oil (liquid) on the top of the pistons....

P.S. I will tell you that the endo scopes make even the driest piston look wetter than it really is. The reflection of the LEDs off even the thinnest oil sheen and carbon make it all look way worse.

Here is a shot of a my piston... pretty wet, huh? I promise that it was completely dry when I pulled the head just after this shot for a failed lifter. You can see in the middle where I rubbed a Q-tip and the carbon is gone showing the Cerakote underneath.

Perfectly Dry.jpg

Yours are wet... but not as wet as the cam is making it look. 3 hours and no puddling in the piston crown... oil dripping from the stem seal would puddle. Yours really looks like PCV consumption or OC blow-by. No easy way to tell the difference without a long process of elimination.

I added multiple catch cans and tried several PCVs to determine that mine was truly OC. I did find a PCV issue in addition to the OC, but there was still an OC problem at the end of the road.

What motor code is your block? I don't know the C7 2.0 codes by heart.

Cheers,

KS

[KaiserMex90]

I'm not sure about the motor/ engine code, but my Q5 is 03/2014 and on the pistons top there is a mark 02.01.2014 (what is production Jan 2nd 2014).

Do you have a workshop or did you rebuilt by your own as a hobby?

[Botbasher]

I'm not sure about the motor/ engine code, but my Q5 is 03/2014 and on the pistons top there is a mark 02.01.2014 (what is production Jan 2nd 2014).

Do you have a workshop or did you rebuilt by your own as a hobby?

Just look on the PR Sticker in the trunk or Owners Manual. It'll tell you all the info about your car. In this example, the motor code is CAEB.

DSC_0004.JPG

I've worked on cars forever and a day... the rebuilding of my Audi's came as a necessity after I learned about the OC issues the hard way... on the 400mi drive home from picking it up. It's not a really hard car to work on... but you have to get some special tools lined up. Here is ALL the tools I used in one place after I finished the first one. Only the tools associated to the timing (light red and black cases) were needed. I had all the rest.

20180527_141030.jpg

I also HATE giving $$ to people when I can do it myself, so I dove in head first!! Nothing better than a trial by fire, huh?

Cheers,

KS

[Botbasher]

Is this the "Berrymans" you were thinking of using?

https://youtu.be/PkUq5mp2plc

Paul goes through all the standard methods to attack build up and gives you his thoughts on them. The external chemical options don't seem to do much for a un-cared for car. I can attest the SeaFoam did about the same as this Berrymans 2611 option. Nada!!

I do not think an INTAKE based chemical attack would cure a oil ring issue as it's simply too far down the chain to benefit from any external applications. Running the SeaFoam Oil treatment has had mixed results giving temporary reprieves.

Some have gotten long term fixes from attacking it from the oil pan side, but they were hyper-vigilent about oils used and regular application of oil-based treatments for the remainder of the cars life.

An extra $20-40 (for oil and chemical) per oil change for the remainder of a cars lifespan was what pushed me to swap pistons and be done with it once and for all!

Hope this info helps!

Cheers,

KS

[KaiserMex90]

So I made the piston soak with the Berryman B12 last weekend. The liquid drained through piston 1,2 and 4 but not through piston 3.

I rotated the engine every 3 hours through the crankshaft bolt.
When I started then the engine for the first time, It ran very rough and it took some time to fire up. At the beginning a lot of misfire, but after 5 seconds it ran normal.

I made an oil change right after it and used a cheap oil and filter, because after 200 miles I want to make another oil change and then use Rotella 5W40.

Regarding the oil consumption I can not say anything but I drove 130 miles so far and the oil level has not moved yet (according to MMI).
Before the treatment the car burned 1 qrt around every 300-350 miles, so it should have moved yet.

But what I always noted before the treatment was that when I cold start the engine, oil or soot was coming out of the tail pipes. Now after that treatment, nothing comes out and the emissions smell much “cleaner”.

I will update here once I made the other oil change and then monitor the oil consumption.


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[Wadeboston]

Good point on checking the PCV. I called the local Audi dealership and they confirmed 06H-103-495-AK which is what I installed early this year. I’d like to double check the engine software but was not able to get a software part number from the dealership.

I did find a class action lawsuit in California that alleges ‘faulty pistons’ upto the 2017 Audi A6. Pistons oil control rings remain my best guess and I’m finding the spark plugs coated in white deposits. If there are any other tips on how to confirm the oil consumption source, I am all ears, before I pull the engine. I did buy a iPhone boroscope and see a fair amount of carbon on the piston tops. If KaiserMex90 has success with Berryman B-12, I’ll likely give that a try next.

[KaiserMex90]

So, I drove now 315 miles after the last oilchange and B12 piston soak, and oil level has not dropped.
Today I made an oil change and removed the same oil quantity that I used the last time. I used Rotella T6 5W40 (as I heared good things about it) for the new oil change.

After a 1000 miles I will Update here how the oil consumption was.


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[Wadeboston]

Hey KaiserMex90 - I’m hoping you are still seeing an improvement after the Berryman B12. A friend had a gallon, so I’m going to give it a try as well next weekend.

[KaiserMex90]

Hi Wadeboston.

Since the Rotella T6 oil change I drove 480 miles, and the oil level did still not drop. As by now, in my case the treatment helped a lot.

Let me know how things turn out for you after the treatment.


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[Wadeboston]

That is great news. I tried the B12 piston soak this weekend on the A6 2.0t fsi. Keeping my fingers crossed this works my engine as well.

You mentioned switching to Rotella T6 5W-40. Is this marketed for Diesel engines? Would you know if it meets Audi/VW specs? Thanks again - Mike

[Botbasher]

You mentioned switching to Rotella T6 5W-40. Is this marketed for Diesel engines?

Not to toss a wet blanket on the party here, but I still have a serious fault with the process here.

Not only did you do a B-12 cleaning, but you swapped oil type (not just brands)... so which change fixed it?

Kaiser... Would you try going back to your original oil type after your 1k mi change and see if it was the B-12 or the Rotella that actually cured the problem. Or maybe, Wade would try it prior to using the B-12? (EDIT: I reread Wade's post and realized he already did the B-12... so no control can be done there depending on what oil he used after)

As Wade mentioned, Rotella is marketed towards diesels and therefore a much different base. Viscosity is viscosity, but you have much different additives involved. My biggest concern would be for the temps at which T-6 is being exposed to being far above design specs. I can find no version of Rotella that meets any "car" spec. You might be able to lower the mileage interval to help avoid break down, but then you have simply traded one issue for another!

Are you going to send your initial oil change off to Blackstone (or similar testing lab) to confirm it's not damaging the motor?

A thicker oil has been one of the go-to fixes for the oil consumption issue for a long time now, but finding an applicable 40 or 50wt oil is hard and not good for the turbos!

I do hope your process works, but I think that you may have clouded the results a bit by making more than one change at a time. Need to find out if it's one or the other (or both!) that actually helps! My gut and actually having looked at the debris in the rings close up suggest that it's the oil more than the B-12.

Cheers,

KS

[Wadeboston]

75D399DB-1E59-47ED-B44F-62658D10D9F5.jpeg012E7FEB-2848-4A16-9612-AFAD9FDDECEC.jpeg

I’m running the same Castrol before and after the Berryman piston soak. Noticed significant ‘boiling’ in the cylinder with the Berryman soaks. Will attach after boroscope pictures on a couple cylinders. I did rotate the engine multiple times during the soak. Not sure what those ‘vertical’ stripes are on the cylinder wall… I hope it is just sludge streaking from the Berryman treatment and not scoring! Should know in 3 weeks if this improves the oil consumption.

[Botbasher]

Not sure what those ‘vertical’ stripes are on the cylinder wall… I hope it is just sludge streaking from the Berryman treatment and not scoring! Should know in 3 weeks if this improves the oil consumption.

Not trying to be the harbinger of doom, but I would stop and check those same pistons ASAP! If the streaks have gone... great. If they are still present or worse...

The problem with this process, I mentioned before, is that the B-12 will remove the carbon... and ALL the oil in the applied area. Cyl walls, Wrist pins and con rod bearings to name a few. I hope it's just streaking too, but personally, I would send a sample of the oil out to Blackstone and make sure you don't have any extreme wear in this segment.

One of the scariest parts of rebuilding a motor for me is the first rotations... when all that oil is in the pan and there is nothing but assembly lube between all those new parts and total destruction. If I did this I would have to top oil the pistons, incrementally hand crank till I felt comfortable that oil was circulating and had coated the walls again and only then I'd crank without plugs to assure max oil circ before adding fuel. It's like hearing... once damaged it doesn't come back. You get one shot. I may be overly cautious, but none of my motors have ever failed for wear issues.

Below is what you are hoping that the B-12 will get out... without any agitation. I picked at the ring and had to physically poke every hole to get it to open... after removing 2mm of solid carbon! I just don't see it happening unless it's aggressive and then it's a trade for cyl damage over consuming oil. I get that it might have boiled, but that was working on the carbon on top of the piston... I don't see it evenly attacking the lowest ring evenly, basically I'd bet it worked only where the 2nd compression ring lets it leak through.

I still have 3 untouched rings with pistons... might be worth it to see just how much carbon it can remove just sitting... and in a ring compressor to mimic a cylinder.

I just keep thinking that if it was this easy, that VAG would have done this over replacing pistons, since it's way cheaper and doesn't take as much time as rebuilding the motor! There is a reason that they didn't!

Hope the outcome is good.

KS

20180505_133556.jpg20180507_214056.jpg

[KaiserMex90]

HI,

Indeed, the Rotella T6 5W40 is a Diesel oil and does NOT meet the VAG specs. However, I read a lot of good experiences with this oil in gas engines, especially in direct injection turbo engines. The additives in the Rotella T6 are good detergents to clean the carbon build ups from the engine.
Here is some information about the oil in TFSI engines:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th...l-tfsi.252747/
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th...t-tfsi.252744/
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th...-miles.134847/
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th...r-audi.200652/


Regarding my oil consumption, so I drove nowe 750 miles the oil level dropped about 1/8-1/4 according to MMI. I will drive now until I get the "add 1 quart" message and check then how many miles I will get. By now without the B-12 piston soak, I would already have burned 3 quarts.


Regards

[Botbasher]

Regarding my oil consumption, so I drove now 750 miles the oil level dropped about 1/8-1/4 according to MMI. By now without the B-12 piston soak, I would already have burned 3 quarts.

Or maybe with just the T-6 you would have burned less. There is no way to tell without a control. Wade is still on the same oil so looking to him for a true report of the "B-12" effect!

Just for an apples to apples... after I replaced the pistons my first sign of any loss on the MMI was over 2k miles and was still above 1/2 at 5k miles (confirmed with a dipstick). This same motor was consuming 1L/250mi prior to the rebuild. Only internal item changed was the pistons/rings. My guess is that the T6 is slowing the consumption but not eliminating it. I would wager that if you went right back to your previous oil, you'd see consumptions on par with your previous.

Other 2.0 have changed oils to alter the rate of consumption. I know of 2 drivers that went from LiquidMoly to Motul and saw a dramatic drop in consumption. It didn't fix it but it was a significant change. I tried a straight 50 in it one time to see. It didn't like to turn over or rev up nearly as fast as a 5W-30, but the short term consumption was near zero! That was when I knew I was cracking the block open!

Putting up others oil reports is like reposting someone dyno chart. Nice but not applicable if they haven't done a chemical strip of their motor right before! It also doesn't tell you about the condition of the turbo or other oil effected parts. Is it coking at the turbine? Is it building up on the compressor due to PVC blow thru? Is it carbon building up in the intake more due to it's lower temp rating and lack of DI intended additives? The reports are important, but they are not all telling either!

Keep updating this thread. I hope it works as it'll make buying old CAEB motors and cars a $$ cow!

Cheers,

KS

[KaiserMex90]

Well, right after the B-12 treatment I drove 315 miles on Castrol 5W40 (what I drove previous the B-12 treatment) and the oil level did not dropped at all. Actually I pump the oil out for the oil change and it was the same amount that I filled up.

I'm not telling that the B-12 treatment is the fix for the oil burning, but it seems it loosen up the clogged oil control rings and helps to reduce the oil burning.

[KaiserMex90]

I passed now the 1000 miles after the oilchange and the MMI show 3/4 of oil level.
I will keep driving until the add oil warning pops up and then I’ll report how many miles I drove.


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