2005 B6 S4 - New owner, novice

[KPack]

Well, for better or for worse, I have joined the ranks of B6 owners. I've been looking at Audi's for a while and the B6/B7 kept catching my eye. The V8, the clean and simple looks, and the manual transmission all appealed to me. I looked at a few, test drove a few, and ended picking one up a few days ago. I probably paid too much for it, but whatever. In the short time I've had it it has made me smile, especially when I get on the throttle. I'm new to Audi's and to working on cars like this in general. My background is mostly novice mechanical work on my overland truck build, and a '54 Packard that I'm restoring. Not quite the same as an Audi with no space to work.





A little background on the car:
-130K miles
-Moro Blue - Overall nice shape, with a few imperfections here and there
-Recaro seats - light tan (gray?), in pretty good shape
-The first years after new showed religious service at Audi dealerships
-Not much on the record between 80K-120K miles
-Sold at auction around 126K to a guy in Oregon. The car jumped timing a couple days later
-Bought by a guy in Washington who likes to rebuild cars. He completely rebuilt the engine and performed a lot of other service





A list of things done to the car in the past 4K miles
-Timing chains/guides all replaced with full ECS kit
-Block resurfaced and leveled
-Head resurfaced, leveled, and checked for cracks
-New head bolts (Victor Reinz)
-All new valves (solid type from AMTuned) x40
-New valve stem seals (AM Tuned) x40
-Re-machined mechanical adjusters (AMTuned)
-New front and rear main seals
-Head gaskets (Victor Reinz)
-Valve cover gaskets (Victor Reinz)
-Valley pan gasket (OEM)
-Oil filter housing gaskets (OEM)
-ECS motor mounts
-034 snub mount and bracket
-New serpentine belt
-New throw out bearing
-New thermostat
-New thermostat housing gasket (OEM)
-All fuses and relays replaced (OEM)
-New clutch position sensor (OEM)
-New brake pads front and rear
-New inner CV boots front and rear
-Crankshaft position sensor (OEM)
-New OEM Luke clutch and pressure plate
-Resurfaced OEM flywheel with new bearing
-New spark plugs and coils
-A/C compressor replaced(OEM)
-Dryer (OEM)
-Radiator replaced
-Condenser replacecd
-A/C flushed
-Coolant flushed
-Power steering flushed
-Transmission flushed
-XS Power catless downpipes
-Jackal tune

Known issues:
-ESP light on - Previous owner warned me about it, he said VCDS indicated driver's front wheel sensor bad. My OBD II reader isn't nearly as intense as VCDS so it doesn't show anything for ESP.
-CEL - Thrown code P0101 - MAF Sensor. Pending code - P0170 - Lean mixture (bank 1). I can't tell if the MAF sensor is going bad (I cleaned with MAF cleaner and reinstalled) or if the MAF code and ESP are related. I've read in some threads that these two systems can throw each other off?
-Valve cover gasket leak - driver's side. Oil was slightly overfilled when I got it (a little above the edge of the upper rubber piece). Maybe the overfill contributed to the gasket leak? First thing I did was replace the oil and fill to the middle of the hash marks.
-Burning oil smell sometimes when at a stoplight. I assume it's from the valve cover gasket leak dripping oil onto the manifold. I get around it by putting the air on recirculate when I can. But I really want to get this taken care of.....smelling oil is super annoying.
-Cracked windshield, vertical. Low priority
-Various broken clips inside. Sun visor, front and rear arm rests. Easy to replace except I can't find a rear arm rest clip
-Condensation in the driver's headlight. I've found a couple of threads on the fix

Things I like about the car
-Moro Blue - I wasn't sure about the color at first, but I'm really liking it now
-Recaro seats - Comfortable and the light color is excellent. Nothing worse than getting into a hot car in the middle of summer with black leather seats. The interior in this car is excellent....seats are in great shape for the age, no tears.
-Style - sleek and understated. I love how the car blends in....I'm not looking for anything flashy. But at the same time it looks very nice
-XS Downpipes - The car sounds pretty normal when driving normally, no annoying drone on the freeway. But when the throttle is opened up they have a great sound. They definitely smell though when I park in the garage....no cats to absorb some of fumes
-Jackal tune - the car is fast....and fun

I'm looking forward to learning more about the car and how to maintain it. Thanks in advance for all the help!

[Atomic Avant]

Welcome and congrats on your new car!

Looks like it was pretty well taken care of and should give you some trouble free miles.

I have had the oil dripping from the valve cover gasket, I had to replace them. But seeing that yours were recently done, I would go around and double check the torque on the valve cover bolts.

8W0857562A4PK, here is the part number for the sun visor clip (Black). 8W0857562A*** The last 3 digits/numbers is the color.

[S3NICK]

Wow! I think you bought a real peach with great work already completed. Don't feel obligated to share, but how much did you pick it up for?

[KPack]

Welcome and congrats on your new car!

Looks like it was pretty well taken care of and should give you some trouble free miles.

I have had the oil dripping from the valve cover gasket, I had to replace them. But seeing that yours were recently done, I would go around and double check the torque on the valve cover bolts.

8W0857562A4PK, here is the part number for the sun visor clip (Black). 8W0857562A*** The last 3 digits/numbers is the color.

Thanks! The interior really is in great condition. I think after winter is over I can get the exterior shaped up nicely. I'm really liking the dark navy blue now. I did find some cheap replacements on Amazon for the sun visor clip and the front armrest clip. We'll see how they hold up. The rear armrest clip is different from the front, I think. Haven't found that yet.

I've read a few other threads where valve covers leaked even after fresh gaskets for one reason or another. I'm assuming it's the same here. Maybe the overfilled oil had something to do with it? I'll recheck the torque on the bolts to be safe. What is the torque value for those?

Wow! I think you bought a real peach with great work already completed. Don't feel obligated to share, but how much did you pick it up for?

I'm sure hoping that all the work is done well and that I have no major issues going forward. I'll be daily driving it for the next few years, with the occasional pull on the backroads for fun. I'm not hard on my vehicles and try to take care of them.

I picked it up for $12K. A bit high in my opinion, but looking at what else was out there in my area (NW) there wasn't much to choose from. There were a few S4's that were between 7-9K, but had more miles and didn't have the timing done. The others were all automatics, which I wasn't interested in. I looked at one that was half the price I paid, had a ton of upgrades, but also needed a ton of work. I wasn't looking for a major project. A few simple fixes I'm fine with, but I really did not want to attempt an engine-out repair. The limited time I have to work on cars is taken up by building out my overland truck and restoring the Packard.

[VinnysS4]

Welcome to the forum. Lots of knowledgeable people here who are always willing to help. Looks like you got a good deal in my opinion with the amount of work that goes into that. I've done it many times and the labor time is extensive. Let me know if you need anything. I'm semi local.

Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

[KPack]

Thanks Vinny. So far I haven't done anything to the car besides drive and get used to it. And it is a blast to drive! The CEL doesn't seem to affect the engine/performance at all, but I do want to get it rectified. Just not sure if I should throw a new MAF sensor at it or if it's something else causing the code.

Oil burning smell is mostly gone now. I think getting the oil level in the right place helped. Now it's just exhaust smell when I sit at a stop light, I presume from not having any cats.

I need to pull apart the windshield sprayers and figure out why they aren't working. I'm assuming they are just clogged. Also need to decide if I want to keep the headlight sprayers or not. I was surprised at how much they drained my reservoir. I don't think there is a leak since I don't see any fluids under the car ever.

[Rol-co]

Trowing parts at it without knowledge isn't the smartest thing to do, just read it with vcds, that will give you a good idea of the cel, can be a lot of things.
Can be something simple as secondary air flow.

Oh my bad, you did read the car, check if the LMM is original, look at the unit itself not the housing. Aftermarket units can give faulty values.

[KPack]

Pulled the driver's headlight over the weekend and did the o-ring replacement. There was a ton of condensation in the housing, so I had to sit there with a hair dryer for 30-45 minutes to get it out. Unfortunately there is still a bit of condensation that shows up in the housing after o-ring replacement. But it is much improved. When I get time (and a sunny day) I'll pull it again and leave it out in the sun for hours to dry out.

On very few occasions I have heard what I believe is chain rattle. Only on cold starts, and maybe 1 in 10 of those. Lasts for less than half a second. Engine starts, then a quick blip of rattle, then quiet. Very infrequent. Reading through other threads it sounds like this is still somewhat normal. No rattle whatsoever on warm starts.

[KPack]

Alright, I have some issues I need help with.

1.) Windshield washer pump - No fluid is getting to the windshield. I pulled the sprayers and confirmed they were clean. Pulled off the hose to the nozzles and no fluid is getting there at all. I unplugged the harness to the headlight washer pump, because that's not super useful to me. Fuse is good, no fault shows up on the dashboard. Where is the main washer pump and how do I get to it? I couldn't see it when I pulled the driver's headlight.

2.) Reverse lights not working - both bulbs are good, putting new bulbs in did not work. Fuses are good, no fault shows on the dashboard. Is it the reverse switch sensor that's gone bad? From what I can tell it doesn't look too hard to replace.

3.) While I was in the fuse box checking the above fuses, I noticed that a bunch of spaces are empty. Some of them I can understand (telephone and towing assembly), but I'm concerned about others. Airbag? Brake servo? What's weird is that some of the things still work....fog lights work, both seat warmers work, etc. No faults show on the dashboard. Here's the list of empty fuse spaces:

-8.) Telephone
-9.) Brake servo (vacuum pump)
-11.) Airbag
-17.) Level, tire pressure control
-18.) Automatic headlight range control, left
-19.) Front fog lights
-20.) Climatic seat
-27.) Towing assembly
-41.) Auxiliary heating

[Atomic Avant]

Alright, I have some issues I need help with.

1.) Windshield washer pump - No fluid is getting to the windshield. I pulled the sprayers and confirmed they were clean. Pulled off the hose to the nozzles and no fluid is getting there at all. I unplugged the harness to the headlight washer pump, because that's not super useful to me. Fuse is good, no fault shows up on the dashboard. Where is the main washer pump and how do I get to it? I couldn't see it when I pulled the driver's headlight.

2.) Reverse lights not working - both bulbs are good, putting new bulbs in did not work. Fuses are good, no fault shows on the dashboard. Is it the reverse switch sensor that's gone bad? From what I can tell it doesn't look too hard to replace.

3.) While I was in the fuse box checking the above fuses, I noticed that a bunch of spaces are empty. Some of them I can understand (telephone and towing assembly), but I'm concerned about others. Airbag? Brake servo? What's weird is that some of the things still work....fog lights work, both seat warmers work, etc. No faults show on the dashboard. Here's the list of empty fuse spaces:

-8.) Telephone
-9.) Brake servo (vacuum pump)
-11.) Airbag
-17.) Level, tire pressure control
-18.) Automatic headlight range control, left
-19.) Front fog lights
-20.) Climatic seat
-27.) Towing assembly
-41.) Auxiliary heating

1/. If you pull back your drivers side fender liner (easier with the wheel off) you will see the pump attached to the backside of the washer fluid tank.

2/. Easy what to test to see if the switch is bad, unplug it and use a jumper wire between the two pins on the plug, it that's all the switch does. If no light then grab a multimeter and check for ground and power on the plug.

3/. Not sure for most of them, but I assume you just have different options on your S4 then others. Also fuse boxes are used across many models and years, so if nothing is broken then I wouldn't sweat it.

An easy way to tell if your car came with something and the fuse isn't there. look to see if it has both metal contacts for the fuse. Those empty slots probably have none or maybe one contact (ground).

[KPack]

I looked closer after I had mentioned the fuse box and those slots do not have contacts. I should have checked that before. I had just assumed that the car had these options.

I pulled and cleaned the MAF again, cleared the P0171 code, then drove it while watching the MAF air volume on Torque Pro. Started off with ~1.0 cubic foot at idle then dropped to 0.2 a few minutes later, then finally to 0. Then the MIL came on. So I'm assuming this helps confirm the MAF is bad. I have one on order and should make the swap this weekend if it comes.

Previous owner said that his VCDS showed driver's front wheel sensor was bad and was throwing the ESP light. I replaced the wheel sensor tonight. Easy job....remove wheel, remove bolt holding the sensor in, disconnect ABS plug at caliper, remove all rubber grommets from mounts, pull wire out of firewall and disconnect the plug there, pull wheel sensor out of the mount. Reinstall in reverse. I cleared all the codes, ESP light turned off after leaving the key in the ignition for a minute, then came back on a few seconds after starting the car. Not sure what I'm missing here. Without VCDS I can't say for certain if another sensor is bad, or if I didn't do something right when I installed the new one. The old one was super crusty.


While I had the wheel off I pulled back the wheel liner to check the washer pump. It is not on the back of the reservoir that I can see. I believe it is on the front on the sedans. I watched a video of a guy replacing the main washer pump on an A4, and it was a full bumper-off procedure. Headlight needs to come out and auxilliary cooler needs to be moved out of the way. Lots of work to replace a $5 part.

[VinnysS4]

I looked closer after I had mentioned the fuse box and those slots do not have contacts. I should have checked that before. I had just assumed that the car had these options.

I pulled and cleaned the MAF again, cleared the P0171 code, then drove it while watching the MAF air volume on Torque Pro. Started off with ~1.0 cubic foot at idle then dropped to 0.2 a few minutes later, then finally to 0. Then the MIL came on. So I'm assuming this helps confirm the MAF is bad. I have one on order and should make the swap this weekend if it comes.

Previous owner said that his VCDS showed driver's front wheel sensor was bad and was throwing the ESP light. I replaced the wheel sensor tonight. Easy job....remove wheel, remove bolt holding the sensor in, disconnect ABS plug at caliper, remove all rubber grommets from mounts, pull wire out of firewall and disconnect the plug there, pull wheel sensor out of the mount. Reinstall in reverse. I cleared all the codes, ESP light turned off after leaving the key in the ignition for a minute, then came back on a few seconds after starting the car. Not sure what I'm missing here. Without VCDS I can't say for certain if another sensor is bad, or if I didn't do something right when I installed the new one. The old one was super crusty.


While I had the wheel off I pulled back the wheel liner to check the washer pump. It is not on the back of the reservoir that I can see. I believe it is on the front on the sedans. I watched a video of a guy replacing the main washer pump on an A4, and it was a full bumper-off procedure. Headlight needs to come out and auxilliary cooler needs to be moved out of the way. Lots of work to replace a $5 part.

Well the bumper takes minutes to get off. Super easy.
Without vcds, you might as well load up your parts cannon and continue firing shots at it hoping it will fix the problem.


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[KPack]

Well the bumper takes minutes to get off. Super easy.
Without vcds, you might as well load up your parts cannon and continue firing shots at it hoping it will fix the problem.


Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

Indeed. VCDS is on my list. Currently trying to see if someone local has it so I can quickly check the codes. Otherwise I'll have to buy one myself.

The video I watched showed bumper removal was pretty straightforward. It'll probably take me a bit the first time, but will be easy after that. I need to order the pump before I dive into that project.

[Atomic Avant]

Indeed. VCDS is on my list. Currently trying to see if someone local has it so I can quickly check the codes. Otherwise I'll have to buy one myself.

The video I watched showed bumper removal was pretty straightforward. It'll probably take me a bit the first time, but will be easy after that. I need to order the pump before I dive into that project.

Take the car for a quick drive with some stop and go and full lock left and right. Might do some relearning with the new sensor.

[All_Black_A4]

Indeed. VCDS is on my list. Currently trying to see if someone local has it so I can quickly check the codes. Otherwise I'll have to buy one myself.

The video I watched showed bumper removal was pretty straightforward. It'll probably take me a bit the first time, but will be easy after that. I need to order the pump before I dive into that project.

Like others have said bumper removal is pretty straight forward. If you've got small girlish hands it'll be easy, if you've got big, lumber jack sized meat hooks, then the drivers side will slow you down a bit, but nothing a decent ratcheting wrench can't take care of

[Rol-co]

@sensor

You have to clear codes for esp if they not intermittent anymore. Sometimes with a drive its gone.

@vcds
Will cost you 20 dollars, not really mindblowing expensive
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/10050...5003152103173?

[KPack]

Take the car for a quick drive with some stop and go and full lock left and right. Might do some relearning with the new sensor.

I will try that, thanks. Drove it to work today and around at lunch but light didn't go off. I didn't go full lock though.

Like others have said bumper removal is pretty straight forward. If you've got small girlish hands it'll be easy, if you've got big, lumber jack sized meat hooks, then the drivers side will slow you down a bit, but nothing a decent ratcheting wrench can't take care of

I would say my hands are right in the middle so shouldn't be an issue. Just a matter of setting aside the time to get it done.

@sensor

You have to clear codes for esp if they not intermittent anymore. Sometimes with a drive its gone.

@vcds
Will cost you 20 dollars, not really mindblowing expensive
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/10050...5003152103173?

Good to know on clearing the codes. I had assumed that, and my cheap bluetooth OBD module doesn't give me access to any of that.

With VCDS, I can just get a generic VAG-Com cable and use the "freeware" version of VCDS? VCDS-Lite I believe. Does the Lite version allow me to read everything and clear codes? Or do I have to register to have that functionality? Registration is $99. A cable and full VCDS version is $199.

[Rol-co]

@KPack

Lite version is enough for code's and reset but not all vcds funtions, thats why it's called lite :) if you don't want to recode u can use a handheld unit to, easy to use.
But vcds has more functionality.

[hkdolphins]

Good to know on clearing the codes. I had assumed that, and my cheap bluetooth OBD module doesn't give me access to any of that.

With VCDS, I can just get a generic VAG-Com cable and use the "freeware" version of VCDS? VCDS-Lite I believe. Does the Lite version allow me to read everything and clear codes? Or do I have to register to have that functionality? Registration is $99. A cable and full VCDS version is $199.

Limitations of VCDS-Lite compared to VCDS even if Fully Registered

No Generic OBD-II
Won't work with CAN-Bus vehicles
Fewer fault code definitions and label files
No built-in Activation (you'll be limited to a single PC)
No Advanced Measuring Blocks
No Acceleration Measurement

[hkdolphins]

With VCDS, I can just get a generic VAG-Com cable and use the "freeware" version of VCDS? VCDS-Lite I believe. Does the Lite version allow me to read everything and clear codes? Or do I have to register to have that functionality? Registration is $99. A cable and full VCDS version is $199.

Limitations of VCDS-Lite compared to VCDS even if Fully Registered
Link

No Generic OBD-II
Won't work with CAN-Bus vehicles
Fewer fault code definitions and label files
No built-in Activation (you'll be limited to a single PC)
No Advanced Measuring Blocks
No Acceleration Measurement

[KPack]

Thanks for the info on VCDS-Lite. I figured that I'm going to be using this for more than just checking codes, and would prefer full-functionality. I didn't want to gamble with Chinese knockoffs, and I don't like the idea of using the pirated version of VCDS on Ebay, so I went with the genuine Ross-Tech option. $200 for the cable and software with full capability made more sense than $100 for partial capability plus the cost of a crappy cable.

At least shipping and tax added another $50....c'mon man.

[CONative]

Good investment. I finally bought my own VCDS cable after nearly seven years of owning my car. When you consider what an indy shop will charge to diagnose an issue, plus the $199 gets you three vin’s, it easily pays for itself.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[KPack]

Two problems solved!

My replacement MAF sensor showed up today (non-OEM). I quickly removed the old, compared with the new and confirmed that everything was the same, and installed the new. Cleared the P0171 code on the car and started it up. Both the CEL/MIL and the ESP lights went off and stayed off. The MAF air flow was huge...anywhere from 80-350 cubic feet/minute depending on what I was doing. The previous sensor read 1.0 cfm after a good cleaning, then 0 after that. I had read on other threads that the ESP light and CEL were related in some cases....I'm glad that it seems to be the case for me.


The car was noticeably more smooth. WAY more smooth. Not surprising I guess, since the lack of MAF readings meant the fuel/air mix and timing were probably way off. I noticed it immediately when starting the car. Driving was quieter and smoother, and it seemed like it had quicker response and more power. I didn't get on the throttle because we got 4 inches of snow today and it's in the low teens. Not exactly driving weather.

Now I need to tackle the non-working reverse lights (reverse switch sensor), and my non-working windshield washer. It's also leaking all over the place now. I noticed some nice blue icicles under the car when I went to drive it at lunch today. I'll end up pulling the whole reservoir out to see what's going on.

[KPack]

And for fun here's a quick recording of the exhaust after the car has been fully warmed up. XS Power catless downpipes. From inside the car it's not loud at all, but I was surprised at how loud it is at the rear. My neighbors probably hate me by now.

[VinnysS4]

Sounds good. Love the model train stuff too. I used to be into that

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[KPack]

Sounds good. Love the model train stuff too. I used to be into that

Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

Thanks! I have too many hobbies, not enough time. Overland/off roading, '54 and '38 Packard restoration, model trains, wakeboarding, and now the S4. I have to find time for all that between family, work, and other responsibilities.

[KPack]

Got my Ross-Tech cable in and ran a quick scan on the way to work today. No CEL/MIL on, but did run into some codes. See below:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 079-910-560-BBK.lbl
Part No SW: 8E0 910 560 G HW: 8E0 907 560
Component: 4.2L V8/5V G 0040
Revision: 00000000 Serial number: AUZ6Z0D0374767
Coding: 0007711
Shop #: WSC 08167 444 54463
VCID: 290FF22545E0FD83D0F-5160
VINID: 9D19607062150854410011430CCB733B79

3 Faults Found:
19497 - Powertrain Databus
P3041 - 004 - Implausible Engine Temp. Message from Inst. Panel - Intermittent
17537 - Fuel Trim; Bank 2 (Mult)
P1129 - 002 - System too Rich - Intermittent
16559 - Fuel Trim; Bank 2
P0175 - 002 - System Too Rich - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8E0-920-9xx-8E2.lbl
Part No: 8E0 920 981 G
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. RB4 D42
Coding: 01231
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 313F1A456830854318F-5160
WAUPL68E25A101533 AUZ6Z0D0374767

1 Fault Found:
01039 - Coolant Temperature Sensor (G2)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 36: Seat Mem. Drvr Labels: 8E0-959-760.lbl
Part No: 8E0 959 760
Component: Sitzmemory R2 F 0305
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 06335
VCID: 71BFDA45A880C54358F-4B3C

1 Fault Found:
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
79-00 - Please Check Fault Codes

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels:. 8E0-959-433-MAX.clb
Part No: 8E0 959 433 BB
Component: Komfortgerát T7B 1612
Coding: 11788
Shop #: WSC 06335
VCID: 72BDD549ADB6FE5BA15-4B00

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8E1959801
Component: Tõrsteuer.FS BRM 0205

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 8E1959802E
Component: Tõrsteuer.BF BRM 0205

Subsystem 3 - Part No: 8E0959801A
Component: Tõrsteuer.HL BRM 0205

Subsystem 4 - Part No: 8E0959802A
Component: Tõrsteuer.HR BRM 0205

11 Faults Found:
00962 - Alarm via. Tilt Sensor
35-00 - -
01369 - Alarm triggered by Hood Switch
35-00 - -
01374 - Alarm triggered by Terminal 15
35-00 - -
01371 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Driver's Side
35-00 - -
01572 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Passenger Side
35-00 - -
01574 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Rear Right
35-00 - -
01573 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Rear Left
35-00 - -
00932 - Electric Window Motor; Drivers Side (V147)
62-10 - No or Incorrect Adjustment - Intermittent
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01705 - Selection Switch for Mirror-Adjust (E48)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
01561 - Rear left door
59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent
-----------------------------------------------------------------

I'm not sure where the rich codes are coming from. What should I start with?

The temperature sensor is not a surprise. Three times I've seen the dash gauge drop to zero, then bounce back up to temperature within a few seconds. So I've assumed the sensor was going bad. Where is it located at so I can replace it?

All the codes under the Central Convenience are surprising. Everything seems to be working fine. I'm assuming this is some sort of electrical problem, or maybe the module is going bad?

[Rol-co]

You need to clear them first, drive for a while and see whats coming back at the scan. Now you have a pretty good idee what's coming.

Sensor is at the firewall in a steel waterpipe, pain in the ass to do with the intake manifold in place, but maybe the connector or instrument cluster.

Rich codes most of the time coming from a imitation maf unit, is it original?

Edit:
Ah i see replacement a few posts early, thats why its so smooth, enough petrol to burn. Had the same with an imitation maf, put in a original (bosch) and its fine.

[VinnysS4]

Got my Ross-Tech cable in and ran a quick scan on the way to work today. No CEL/MIL on, but did run into some codes. See below:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------


3 Faults Found:
19497 - Powertrain Databus
P3041 - 004 - Implausible Engine Temp. Message from Inst. Panel - Intermittent
17537 - Fuel Trim; Bank 2 (Mult)
P1129 - 002 - System too Rich - Intermittent
16559 - Fuel Trim; Bank 2
P0175 - 002 - System Too Rich - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000



1 Fault Found:
01039 - Coolant Temperature Sensor (G2)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent

When coolant temp sensors fail normally the ECU will revert to a rich condition. It acts like it is as cold as it can get so it richens the mixture to warm the engine. My guess is this is what is causing the rich problem. You can check coolant temp in VCDS.
That being said, there is also a code for implausible engine temp message from the cluster so its possible to have a bad connection or faulty cluster, but start simple. This is one of those times I would throw a new temp sensor at it.

I'm not sure where the rich codes are coming from. What should I start with?

The temperature sensor is not a surprise. Three times I've seen the dash gauge drop to zero, then bounce back up to temperature within a few seconds. So I've assumed the sensor was going bad. Where is it located at so I can replace it?

All the codes under the Central Convenience are surprising. Everything seems to be working fine. I'm assuming this is some sort of electrical problem, or maybe the module is going bad?

A lot of codes can be triggered by other problems. If the battery dies you will get all sorts of codes. Modules freak out when the voltage is not correct.

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[VinnysS4]

And beware of aftermarket MAF sensors and pcv valves. Just a heads up

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[KPack]

Thanks both of you. I will clear the codes today and see what pops back up.

I do have a non-OEM MAF sensor in there right now, so it sounds like that may be part of the problem. MPG definitely went down when I installed, but I'm comparing that to a non-functioning MAF that was causing the engine to run lean. I kept the original MAF to use as a core if I needed. So if it comes to it I can send that one in and replace with a rebuilt OEM unit.

I'll see if I can find some info on how to access/replace the temp sensor.

[KPack]

Cleared the codes, drove it during lunch. After driving around a bit I scanned again and the only code that came up was on the seat memory - 01330. I'll keep driving and scan more to see if anything comes back. I have a feeling the temperature sensor will continue to act up....not looking forward to replacing that.

I could feel a difference in the engine (I don't think I was imagining it) and it felt smoother. The exhaust definitely smelled better....the rich condition was probably a factor in that.

[VinnysS4]

Personally I remove the intake manifold and access it through the huge gaping hole it provides. Sure beats trying to work blindly. There is a retaining clip that holds the sensor in. Pull clip and wiggle the sensor out. Make sure to clean the hole it lives in and lube the new oring.

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[Atomic Avant]

Personally I remove the intake manifold and access it through the huge gaping hole it provides. Sure beats trying to work blindly. There is a retaining clip that holds the sensor in. Pull clip and wiggle the sensor out. Make sure to clean the hole it lives in and lube the new oring.

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Also buy more then one clip...

[Rol-co]

Cleared the codes, drove it during lunch. After driving around a bit I scanned again and the only code that came up was on the seat memory - 01330. I'll keep driving and scan more to see if anything comes back. I have a feeling the temperature sensor will continue to act up....not looking forward to replacing that.

I could feel a difference in the engine (I don't think I was imagining it) and it felt smoother. The exhaust definitely smelled better....the rich condition was probably a factor in that.

If you clear codes at the 01 engine you reset also ecu settings, it wil learn the next few days, maybe its enough but if the rich codes come back replace the maf.

[KPack]

If you clear codes at the 01 engine you reset also ecu settings, it wil learn the next few days, maybe its enough but if the rich codes come back replace the maf.

I've scanned a few times in the past week and the rich codes have not come back. The only code that shows up now is related to the temperature sensor issue. I haven't seen the gauge trip out in the last week so I'm just rolling with it for now. Replacing the sensor is on my list....along with the reverse switch sensor and the washer pump. I just haven't had the time to do any of it. No free weekends, and every night is taken up with more important projects.


Unrelated, but at some point I'd like to replace the stock grilles with de-badged honeycomb pattern ones. I see upper ones, but I can only find lowers that say they fit A4's. I'm assuming that the A4 and S4 bumpers are different?

[Rol-co]

I've scanned a few times in the past week and the rich codes have not come back. The only code that shows up now is related to the temperature sensor issue. I haven't seen the gauge trip out in the last week so I'm just rolling with it for now. Replacing the sensor is on my list....along with the reverse switch sensor and the washer pump. I just haven't had the time to do any of it. No free weekends, and every night is taken up with more important projects.

So maybe your lucky and it learned new values:)

Unrelated, but at some point I'd like to replace the stock grilles with de-badged honeycomb pattern ones. I see upper ones, but I can only find lowers that say they fit A4's. I'm assuming that the A4 and S4 bumpers are different?

S and S-line will fit, normal A4 won't.

[KPack]

Haven't done much to the car besides drive it everyday. Washed it once but immediately got filthy again....we've had snow on the ground for well over a month now and things are nasty.

No codes at all when I scan the car now. Haven't had any other issues with the coolant temp gauge. So it seems like things have mostly worked themselves out. Oil level seems to be staying fairly constant. I'm not burning any oil that I can smell, but the engine does have a few slow leaks (no drips on the ground ever). Driver's valve cover gasket (solved by correcting oil overfill situation) and front of the engine (I assume valley pan gasket). Not enough to cause any concern.

Two questions:
1.) I still occasionally get s very short "blip" of chain rattle on cold start. It happens maybe a couple times a week, and is very short....less than a second. I'd prefer to have it not happen at all, but I know that Audi says this is "normal" and "okay". Any concerns with the occasional short sound?
2.) I have to manually hold the pump when I fill with gas. If I set the pump on auto it shuts off within seconds due to backpressure from the tank. My only guess is that maybe the vent is clogged?

[Atomic Avant]

Haven't done much to the car besides drive it everyday. Washed it once but immediately got filthy again....we've had snow on the ground for well over a month now and things are nasty.

No codes at all when I scan the car now. Haven't had any other issues with the coolant temp gauge. So it seems like things have mostly worked themselves out. Oil level seems to be staying fairly constant. I'm not burning any oil that I can smell, but the engine does have a few slow leaks (no drips on the ground ever). Driver's valve cover gasket (solved by correcting oil overfill situation) and front of the engine (I assume valley pan gasket). Not enough to cause any concern.

Two questions:
1.) I still occasionally get s very short "blip" of chain rattle on cold start. It happens maybe a couple times a week, and is very short....less than a second. I'd prefer to have it not happen at all, but I know that Audi says this is "normal" and "okay". Any concerns with the occasional short sound?
2.) I have to manually hold the pump when I fill with gas. If I set the pump on auto it shuts off within seconds due to backpressure from the tank. My only guess is that maybe the vent is clogged?

1/. yes that's normal.

2/. Not sure, we don't have auto pumps around here. (sad noises)

[VinnysS4]

1. Audi claims it's normal, but with good check valves and chain tensioners done, you shouldn't get any rattle.

2. Your evap canister is likely clogged as it's the vent for the tank. Under the rear spare tire well there is a round panel. Remove the 3 10mm bolts and unhook the vent tube that comes from the filler tube to the charcoal canister. If it fills fine, you need a replacement. It happens mostly when people top it up. Fuel comes back up the filler neck and down the vent tube and fills the evap canister. You can also delete the canister. I've done this several times

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