Audizine - An Automotive Enthusiast Community

Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    Junior Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Jun 23 2019
    AZ Member #
    495206
    Location
    NYC

    2013 Q5 3.0t w/150k miles - Should I buy?

    Guest-only advertisement. Register or Log In now!
    I have a dilemma. Been searching for a while and finally came across the car I wanted, 2013 Q5 3.0 with S- Line sport package (flat bottom steering wheel)

    The problem is the car has 150k miles, although the owner claims it's an upstate car with mostly highway miles. I checked the car fax, seems like it was well maintained by an Audi dealer up until around 77k miles and then no more service history, just inspections every year.

    During my test drive, car felt very smooth, didn't notice any roof rattles, or any odd sounds from the engine.

    Anything I should be looking out for before I pull the trigger?
    I'm looking to keep the car for about 3-5 years and put about 50k miles on it.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings Discipulus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 20 2016
    AZ Member #
    381429
    Location
    Portland, OR

    Check for timing chain rattle on cold start. If you hear a loud-ish rattle that lasts 3 seconds or more then I'd avoid. It's very uncommon but it does occasionally happen so good to be aware of.

    Aside from that, you can expect to do some serious maintenance just about immediately when you get it. Namely, the transmission fluid and filter will need to be changed if the previous owner never did it. Recommended change interval is 60k miles or so if I remember.

    Less important but also likely, is intake valve carbon cleaning. At 100k miles mine were pretty gunked and GROSS. By 150k I'd there may be power loss or rougher idle that you would probably notice if you compare to a low mileage 3.0T. If you do this maintenance, it's also recommended to replace the PCV, thermostat, and water pump at the same time as they are failure prone and easy to access while the supercharger is off for intake valve cleaning.

    If you do all these tasks yourself, expect the parts cost to be around $800, with about 40hrs in labor for everything above mentioned. Not including special tools or supplies.

    Other users here may give more accurate estimates on price and labor times but that's what I roughly spent when I did this myself.

    If you feel up to the task, the 3.0T paired with the 8 speed ZF8 transmission is among the most reliable platforms in the Audi lineup. Assuming maintenance is all up to date and no timing chain issues, this car would easily get up to 200k.

    Good luck in your search.

    Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app
    APR Stage 2 DP | JHM 207mm Crank | JHM HX | EPL TCU | JHM Race Pipes | JHM High-Flow Cats | Euro-Spec SQ5 Springs | Bilstein B8 Shocks | 034 Motor Mounts | ECS Drivetrain Inserts | ECS Aluminum Cross Brace | AFE Pro Dry air filter | 034 Silicone Intake Tube | 034 RSB | TRW metal endlinks | ECS Stainless Brake Lines | RSNAV S3
    2015 Q5 3.0T - Current
    2011 A4 6MT - Sold

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Jul 31 2016
    AZ Member #
    377505
    Location
    PA

    At 150k I probably wouldn't change the trans fluid if it hadn't been done yet, all the varnish you will release will probably result in a rebuild of the trans soon after.

    Failures of the new thermostat revisions are very low and not necessary. Plan on a water pump probably ever 40 to 60k. If PCV is working fine, leave it alone.

    Sent from my SM-G988U using Audizine Forum mobile app
    Custom DP 194/57 E40 Water-Meth (Aquamist) | BG HPT ZF8 Tune | APR CPS with AWE Reservoir (Divorced Coolant Loop) | APR Open Intake and 034 Intake Tube | RSE Heat Shielded HFCs | CTS Downpipes with Vibrant UQ Resonators Added | AWE Touring Exhaust | 034 RSB | Bilstein B8 Shocks and H&R -3 Springs | ECS Trans and Drivetrain Inserts | 034 Trans and Motor Mounts | Moog Front End Links | Headlight Projector Retrofit and Painted Housings

  4. #4
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 27 2017
    AZ Member #
    410432
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA

    These are great vehicles and overall the 3.0T is very reliable.

    Whether or not to buy is a complex thing. Ultimately comes down to budget and alternatives. What other cars are you comparing to?

    That said from a value perspective I would look for one that has 100-110k miles. It seems there is a huge drop in value once hitting 100k that then tapers off. I doubt you are getting much discount for that additional 40k miles (which is significant once you're at that age).

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Valpo A7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 27 2018
    AZ Member #
    432008
    My Garage
    2018 Jeep Wrangler JLU; 2015 Mas Ghibli SQ4; 2005 Gulfstream Motorhome
    Location
    Valparaiso, IN

    I have a 12 A7 with the same motor sitting at 216,000 miles. Bought at 142k and the history looks good so I felt good about buying it. Had to do chains at home at 204,000 or so miles but otherwise the drivetrain is solid. Did motor mounts when I had the engine out as well. They were actually the original mounts. Looking at the dealer service history I am pretty sure I am still on the stock PCV, water pump, and t-stat. Suspension is all original save 2 wheel bearing that went out for the original owner. I went ahead and changed both diff fluids as well as the transfer last year when the engine was out. Pretty sure that fluid was original. My trans fluid is original fill and still shifts smooth as silk. Part of me wants to put new fluid and filter in but part of me says no fuckin way.

    The Audi 3.0 with ZF trans is solid as long as you give it some maintenance love. My goal with our A7 is to get 300k from it.

  6. #6
    Junior Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Jun 23 2019
    AZ Member #
    495206
    Location
    NYC

    The comments are mixed in this thread.
    We're taking the car to a local mechanic this weekend. Any advice what the mechanic should look out for before we purchase?

    He obviously can't start taking apart the car, but if there's anything obvious he can look at, please let me know

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Valpo A7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 27 2018
    AZ Member #
    432008
    My Garage
    2018 Jeep Wrangler JLU; 2015 Mas Ghibli SQ4; 2005 Gulfstream Motorhome
    Location
    Valparaiso, IN

    Any word back from the mechanic?

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings Discipulus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 20 2016
    AZ Member #
    381429
    Location
    Portland, OR

    Quote Originally Posted by djn876 View Post
    At 150k I probably wouldn't change the trans fluid if it hadn't been done yet, all the varnish you will release will probably result in a rebuild of the trans soon after.

    Failures of the new thermostat revisions are very low and not necessary. Plan on a water pump probably ever 40 to 60k. If PCV is working fine, leave it alone.

    Sent from my SM-G988U using Audizine Forum mobile app
    I've heard this many times and I suppose there are 2 main ways of thinking on this. Either:

    a. Change the fluid. If it works out, congrats you just extended the life of your transmission. If not, any issues you discover after changing fluid would mean the transmission was already damaged prior to changing the fluid - you just couldn't tell yet. Get the tranny rebuild, as it probably already was worn out enough to need this anyway.

    -or-

    b. don't change the fluid. You know it's already probably a shot transmission but you want to ride it as long as you can until it finally fails. Then replace the transmission entirely, since after a real failure it probably can't be rebuilt.

    I suppose with Option A you're taking a chance that you could actually extend the life of the trans, with a risk of it not working out. With Option B you're taking the chance that it might last long enough that you sell the car before it finally blows, but it could also blow during your ownership due to not changing the fluid. I typically aim for option A since I always 'plan' on hanging onto my cars for a long time.
    APR Stage 2 DP | JHM 207mm Crank | JHM HX | EPL TCU | JHM Race Pipes | JHM High-Flow Cats | Euro-Spec SQ5 Springs | Bilstein B8 Shocks | 034 Motor Mounts | ECS Drivetrain Inserts | ECS Aluminum Cross Brace | AFE Pro Dry air filter | 034 Silicone Intake Tube | 034 RSB | TRW metal endlinks | ECS Stainless Brake Lines | RSNAV S3
    2015 Q5 3.0T - Current
    2011 A4 6MT - Sold

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


    © 2001-2025 Audizine, Audizine.com, and Driverzines.com
    Audizine is an independently owned and operated automotive enthusiast community and news website.
    Audi and the Audi logo(s) are copyright/trademark Audi AG. Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG.