Thoughts on a 13 S4 Manual

[kishanb93]

I had a 13 S4 DSG for 4 years so I'm familiar with the common issues like carbon cleaning, water pump, thermostat and other lovely fits these cars like to make. But this will be the first manual car I own.

Just wondering if anyone has any opinions on a manual S4 with 170k kms (105k miles) on it, things to look out for, or owning this car as a first time manual driver? The car is currently APR Stage 1 tuned.

[B18b1ex]

I had a 13 S4 DSG for 4 years so I'm familiar with the common issues like carbon cleaning, water pump, thermostat and other lovely fits these cars like to make. But this will be the first manual car I own.

Just wondering if anyone has any opinions on a manual S4 with 170k kms (105k miles) on it, things to look out for, or owning this car as a first time manual driver? The car is currently APR Stage 1 tuned.

I would guess it plan for a clutch job and probably a slave cylinder fairly soon, I’d remove the stock clutch line for one without the valve and don’t money shift. LLAP


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kishanb93]

I would guess it plan for a clutch job and probably a slave cylinder fairly soon, I’d remove the stock clutch line for one without the valve and don’t money shift. LLAP


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for your reply, what do you mean by don't money shift?

[B8S4inKC]

Thanks for your reply, what do you mean by don't money shift?

Let's say you're trying to shift from 2-3 at redline and you just jam it into 1... that's a money shift.

My 2011 has 120k on the clock, 40k of which has been me with a stage 1 tune and I believe it's still on the stock clutch. Doesn't slip or anything but it's definitely more about the previous owner(s). I say go for it. They're really great cars

[shreddykrueger]

so I converted my a4 avant into a 6MT s4 avant using a donor 2011 s4 with 90k miles on it and served all of the above mentioned (water pump, thermostat, carbon, etc). during the build immediately went dual pulley stage II and the stock clutch couldn't hold a gear for its life. upgraded to a ringer stage III clutch and have been super happy with it, feels stock (not racey at all). having a 3rd pedal amps up the enjoyment of driving big time

[Snowmonkey]

I put 20 miles on mine every day and i love it to death. stock clutfh went out after about 90k miles but i dont think it was that great when i bought it at 85k. When i had a new one put in, i threw in a lightweight flywheel and Jays extended slave cylinder. Been perfect ever since, minus a throwout bearing that had a factory defect and needed replacing after a few months. Shop did it under warranty. Im also APR stage 1 and its fantastic. Really livens up the car. Clutch still holds strong, even on harder launches.

[Prelusion]

I'd definitely put some money aside for an upgraded clutch. Even more so if you plan to go higher than stage 1. Other than that it's a blast to drive and very engaging.

Sent from my GM1917 using Audizine mobile app

[vwlippy]

Been perfect ever since, minus a throwout bearing that had a factory defect and needed replacing after a few months. Shop did it under warranty.

Sorry to slightly hijack the thread, but how did you know the throwout bearing failed? What are the symptoms?

[MacaveliMC]

I bought my car, a 2012, with the same mileage as yours. It already had a dual pulley upgrade and tune (among many other upgrades). The clutch line had already been replaced, as well as the slave cylinder but it was the metal one and the action didn't feel right. I also had the clutch issue where the car would ask for the clutch to be pushed in to start even when I had it on the floor. So I replaced the metal slave with the extended slave cylinder and flushed all the fluid for the clutch/brakes. Car starts fine now, and clutch feels better.

That being said, I've noticed that I really need to make sure the clutch is all the way out before I get on the gas, especially in dynamic mode. The clutch will slip if it's not all the way out first. I'm not sure if this is because the clutch is on the way out or is a consequence of the extra power, or maybe a combination of the two. Regardless, it's not slipping at all when the clutch is all the way out and I get on the gas hard, so for now I'm not worried about replacing it. And when I do I'll definitely be replacing with a clutch that can handle the extra HP.

[jsh139]

I bought my car, a 2012, with the same mileage as yours. It already had a dual pulley upgrade and tune (among many other upgrades). The clutch line had already been replaced, as well as the slave cylinder but it was the metal one and the action didn't feel right. I also had the clutch issue where the car would ask for the clutch to be pushed in to start even when I had it on the floor. So I replaced the metal slave with the extended slave cylinder and flushed all the fluid for the clutch/brakes. Car starts fine now, and clutch feels better.

That being said, I've noticed that I really need to make sure the clutch is all the way out before I get on the gas, especially in dynamic mode. The clutch will slip if it's not all the way out first. I'm not sure if this is because the clutch is on the way out or is a consequence of the extra power, or maybe a combination of the two. Regardless, it's not slipping at all when the clutch is all the way out and I get on the gas hard, so for now I'm not worried about replacing it. And when I do I'll definitely be replacing with a clutch that can handle the extra HP.

Yeah, you really need to be sure that the clutch is fully engaged before you floor it. A split second after you lift up your foot makes all the difference. I don't think that it is much of a consequence of the extra power as it is just a quirk of these clutches and too much grip from the AWD system. Something has to slip and since it isn't the tires, it's the clutch. My clutch would slip like that when my S4 was stock with 30,000 miles. It made it to 110K miles (30K of that with stage 2 power).

[B5Dreaming]

I would guess it plan for a clutch job and probably a slave cylinder fairly soon, I’d remove the stock clutch line for one without the valve and don’t money shift. LLAP

Ah, the money shift. Brings back high school memories when a friend let an acquaintance drive his 90's Civic Si. Redline 2nd back to into 1st. Oh boy. Don't do that.

[B18b1ex]

Ah, the money shift. Brings back high school memories when a friend let an acquaintance drive his 90's Civic Si. Redline 2nd back to into 1st. Oh boy. Don't do that.

The one I heard some do was a 3rd redline to 2nd in the S4, he thought he caught it but everything started tapping. . I had a 91si. Love that little car.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jsh139]

First I heard of the “money shift” was from my E36 M3 days. 3-4 upshift or 5-4 downshift, but you hit 2nd instead. It was particularly a problem in that car because if your tranny or engine mounts were worn, under high load the tranny would shift over to the right ever so slightly further increasing the odds of doing it. I changed my whole shifting pattern for fear of doing it.

http://www.shortshifter.com/techniques2.htm

[countrydoc]

Pull the trigger on the car. I bought a 2012 in 2016 with 80k miles and was at 154k miles when it got killed by a deer last year. Had Stage 1 IE tune and cold air intake, which makes the supercharger whine sound amazing!! I was on the track several times a year and otherwise put 21k a year on as the best daily driver ever.

[Snowmonkey]

Sorry to slightly hijack the thread, but how did you know the throwout bearing failed? What are the symptoms?

whirring noise when the clutch pedal was down. It was a new flywheel so i figured it would have some sound to it as it broke in but the whirring soon turned into a bit of a more of a shhhhhhh sound, and got louder as the pedal was depressed. Took it in and the mechanic said he was 99% sure it was the TOB. Not usually an item that fails since theres really no load through it but he said the do sometimes come with factory defects.

[KAMP]

If you can set aside and plan out a new clutch replacement, I would say do it. Until then, learn to drive a manual daily on the current clutch properly.. and become and “expert” before replacing to a new one. It’s one thing being able to move/drive a manual, and properly learning how to drive one. Time is on your side.

[vwlippy]

whirring noise when the clutch pedal was down. It was a new flywheel so i figured it would have some sound to it as it broke in but the whirring soon turned into a bit of a more of a shhhhhhh sound, and got louder as the pedal was depressed. Took it in and the mechanic said he was 99% sure it was the TOB. Not usually an item that fails since theres really no load through it but he said the do sometimes come with factory defects.

Thanks!