What tune to fix lean condition

[TBarCYa]

I had 2 coils fail which dumped raw fuel into the cat which burned and melted the catalyst. I replaced it with a test pipe and the car runs terrible. The plugs look like it's running lean which makes sense considering it's the stock tune. The question is what's a reasonably priced tune that will compensate for the test pipe and remove the cel without any other mods? I would consider doing a high flow filter but only if it's needed to get it to run right. As it is, the car shakes under load and is horrendous to drive.

Thanks

[Jay-Bee]

Troubleshoot your issues before adding a tune, that will only exagerate your symptoms and lead to more of a headache.

Stage 2 will add power and remove the P0420 catalyst code.

Replace plugs and coils and check for leaks.

[TBarCYa]

Troubleshoot your issues before adding a tune, that will only exagerate your symptoms and lead to more of a headache.

Stage 2 will add power and remove the P0420 catalyst code.

Replace plugs and coils and check for leaks.

Coils and plugs have already been replaced and the plugs will be replaced again after the tune. So any stage 2 should get me back to running normal?

[Jay-Bee]

So any stage 2 should get me back to running normal?

No not at all. A tune wont fix anything besides removing your cat codes.

A stock car/ecu should drive completely fine even with a test pipe.

[TBarCYa]

I thought the tune was to remap the fuel to accommodate the increase in flow from the test pipe? If not that, what does the tune do?

[VinnysS4]

I had 2 coils fail which dumped raw fuel into the cat which burned and melted the catalyst. I replaced it with a test pipe and the car runs terrible. The plugs look like it's running lean which makes sense considering it's the stock tune. The question is what's a reasonably priced tune that will compensate for the test pipe and remove the cel without any other mods? I would consider doing a high flow filter but only if it's needed to get it to run right. As it is, the car shakes under load and is horrendous to drive.

Thanks

There is something wrong with the car and it's not the test pipe. Without a proper diagnosis, it wont get fixed. A tune will help a healthy car. If your car is stock with stock injectors and stock turbo, a catless downpipe will make very little difference in how it drives. Find and fix the issue first

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[Jeevan]

a bad coil won't fill cylinder with fuel coz the ecm is smart enough to cut fuel when it detects misfires. It might have been injectors.

Do some research and fix it or ginfy a mechanic


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[TBarCYa]

Replacing the coils fixed the raw fuel in the exhaust problem as the car was undriveable with the bad coils and after they were replaced the car was drivable. The cat was pulled because it still wasn't back to normal. When I pull the codes I get P0420 because of the missing cat and P2096 which is just telling me the same thing as the plugs. No misfire codes, just the lean condition.

I guess I'll start looking for vacuum leaks today.

[TBarCYa]

Ok so I did some investigation.... There is a small exhaust leak at the turbo to test pipe connection but it seals when the engine gets warm. I'll order an exhaust gasket for that. Back in the day we would spray brake cleaner, WD40 or ether around the vacuum hoses and manifold to find a leak... I tried that and did not find any leak. Back in the day we would also use a screwdriver to listen to different parts of the engine and when I put my ear to the rearmost cylinder it's notably louder than the rest. I used the OBD2 tool to watch fuel pressure and air/fuel ratio and the FP ranged from 780 at idle to around 1600 under load. AFR was at 14 with the engine cold and around 15 when warmed up and stayed consistent whether under load or not. It was only when closing the throttle that the AFR jumped to about 30 which I assume is to be expected.

All of this was done around the neighborhood and it did not shake under load. It typically does that on the highway so I'll take it out later today to do a test under the right conditions. When using Torque Pro what are good monitors to have up? AFR and fuel rail pressure (to check for a bad secondary fuel pump) but what else? There are no misfire monitors but I can pull codes while it's misbehaving to see if there's an intermittent code that isn't being stored. Any other ideas? I'll be pulling the plugs and coils today to see if maybe there's a crack in a coil boot or something and if all of that fails I'll be pulling the injectors to see if that rear cylinder has a clogged injector.

One thing I just noticed is that Torque is only showing data for O2 sensor1 Equivalnece Ratio(alternate) and O2 volts on bank 1 sensor 2 as being the only active sensors. This could be because the engine wasn't fully up to temp but it's odd that I get one metric for sensor1 and another for bank1 sensor2.

[TBarCYa]

Ok more investigation. Compression is 180 across all 4 cylinders. I tested the coils and they all test good and show spark at the plug. The interesting thing is that it has Autolite plugs that were gapped to .040" which is way too much. Since the plugs look good right now (no longer lean) I regapped them to .032 which seems to be a consnesus online about the proper gap and I'll test it out later today.

[Theiceman]

pcv..

[Jayz691]

I tried autolite platinum plugs in a pinch, and they were horrible. Id get some NGK iridium or laser plat for best results.

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