Questions about the 1.8T and 2.0T Engines-Which would you buy?

[Cfoss]

Hi all.

I’ve scoured the internet and have a few questions about the later Audi/VW 1.8T vs the 2.0T.

I have an option to buy either one-trying to figure out what might be my best buy long term.

I am very handy with a wrench-and would still probably be driving my ’94 self-turbo’d/tuned Integra, except my son needed a car-Off it went. So I’m in the market, and I’d like to buy an AWD car this time.

Question 1: Do both the 1.8, and 2.0 have balancing shafts-I’ve read conflicting accounts of this. If so, is it common to delete the balance shafts, and does this simply extend the upper rpm range (With associated valve train work of course) or does it contribute to oil pump failure prevention?

Question 2: Do both the 1.8 and 2.0 have chain drive oil pumps? Do they both have the ‘key’ drive failures? Is there an aftermarket solution?

Question 3: My daughter has a 1.8T in a Jetta. Seems like the sludge issue is not as big a deal in the transverse application , and it has been really good to her. I’ve seen speculation that it’s the different oil pan and maybe baffling in the longitudinal engine that allows sludge to build. Any opinions on this? Any difference 1.8 to 2.0?

Question 4: I really like the A4 platform but my in-laws had two 1.8Ts die on them with oiling issues so I’m a bit gunshy-other than checking the pickups/pans for sludge and getting an analog oil pressure guage is there any other ways to mitigate/prevent/detect this issue?

Thanks,

Chay

[Cfoss]

I found some answers to these questions...in green.


Hi all.

I’ve scoured the internet and have a few questions about the later Audi/VW 1.8T vs the 2.0T.

I have an option to buy either one-trying to figure out what might be my best buy long term.

I am very handy with a wrench-and would still probably be driving my ’94 self-turbo’d/tuned Integra, except my son needed a car-Off it went. So I’m in the market, and I’d like to buy an AWD car this time.

Question 1: Do both the 1.8, and 2.0 have balancing shafts-I’ve read conflicting accounts of this. If so, is it common to delete the balance shafts, and does this simply extend the upper rpm range (With associated valve train work of course) or does it contribute to oil pump failure prevention?

The 1.8 does not have balance shafts, the 2.0 does. The 2.0 has had issues with the balancing shafts etc wearing from GDI combustion byproducts in the oil The replacement shaft/oil pump combo is silly expensive. That, and the fact GDI engines can get gummed up valves-I've never wanted a GDI because of this and the high pressure pump required. I'll be looking for a 1.8T.

Question 2: Do both the 1.8 and 2.0 have chain drive oil pumps? Do they both have the ‘key’ drive failures? Is there an aftermarket solution?

1.8T does. I would still like any info on key failures etc.

Question 3: My daughter has a 1.8T in a Jetta. Seems like the sludge issue is not as big a deal in the transverse application , and it has been really good to her. I’ve seen speculation that it’s the different oil pan and maybe baffling in the longitudinal engine that allows sludge to build. Any opinions on this? Any difference 1.8 to 2.0?

Question 4: I really like the A4 platform but my in-laws had two 1.8Ts die on them with oiling issues so I’m a bit gunshy-other than checking the pickups/pans for sludge and getting an analog oil pressure guage is there any other ways to mitigate/prevent/detect this issue?

Thanks,

Chay

[Cybersombosis]

I’d find a good 1.8t with documentation of when maintenance, mainly oil changes, were done. The 2.0T has a lot of inherent problems so finding one without oil consumption issues or caked on carbon or cam timing chain issues is going to be tough if looking at a B7. My 1.8T doesn’t burn a bit of oil after 174km and 20 years. I change my oil every 5000km and my plugs every 10000km. I drive about 8000km a year.

Where abouts in BC are you?

[Cfoss]

I'm on the island, specifically Duncan.

The first thing when getting it home would be to check the pickup/oil pan etc for sludge-timing belt if not done, new oil pump if required-that sort of thing.

Then the plan would be to run it for a while, then tear it down and build it-Forged everything, bigger turbo/injectors/fuel pump/tuning/wideband 02-Typical tuner stuff in other words, and have some fun with it.

Hopefully I can find a manual-I like rowing the gears for some reason.


Thanks for the info.

Chay

[Cybersombosis]

There are a couple A4 1.8T 6 speeds in Victoria for sale at the moment. Check out Used Vic and marketplace. 2004 A4 Avant for $3999 and a black 2005 A4 for $3000.

[egovreau]

Earlier 1.8T cars had sludging issues, but it was more of a function of using conventional motor oil. Later cars started to specify synthetic which reduced that. It was possible, when the sludge was removed, to switch to synthetic oil on earlier cars.

The B7 2.0T had issues with the high pressure fuel pump cam follower. They would wear quickly. Poor materials.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

[Razgriz227]

To follow up on the post above, it also had to do with using the smaller oil filter. Full synthetic oil changes with the “bigger” filter and it hasn’t been a problem.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Kevin C]

Assuming you are referring to B6 vs B7 engines. Both are getting pretty old and are getting into project car status. The B7 platform is still on the same basic chassis but Audi refined a number of things so its more than just the engine differences. the B7 4's got dual intercoolers a bigger clutch, better turbo (faster spooling, more capacity), balance shaft system, larger brakes and a few more options like acoustic glass. The B7 also got GDI ( direct injection). A theory is that the GDI puts a lot more soot into the engine oil and that can cause a couple of problems. One was oil ring clogging and another was wear. Wear to things like timing chains (oil pump drive and cam to cam) as well as the lobe on the high pressure fuel pump (HPFP). The exact wear mechanism on the HPFP may not be understood but they can randomly fail and contaminate the motor with shards of hardened metal. That contamination can cause other bearings to fail and may be what causes the oil pump to fail. The oil pump on the 2.0T is pricy and costs about $1800 since it integrates a balance shaft system.

A used 2.0T may or may not be a time bomb. Of course I'm forgetting that the intake valves need to be regularly (80,000 miiles?) walnut shell blasted and the cam chain drive randomly fails and the oil pump pickup has a TSB to replace it since is gets blocked under certain conditions. Still, the platform has a good following and people work with the issues.

The 1.8T's only issue is if you don't keep up on oil changes and use the right oil the pickup for the oil pump can become blocked.

Used, the 1.8T is a lot safer, both can be built. No matter what you do its a 4cyl in a 3500lb car, if your building for fast it may not be the best option. If your looking for AWD, nice ride and sporty its a nice platform. The upside is there are a lot of parts from other models that are a drop in. RS4 sway bars, bigger brakes are easy upgrades. I even made a Frankenstein motor combining the worst of the 2.0T (balance shaft oil pump) with a 1.8T to have what might be the only balance shaft stroker 1.8T.

Short story is a high millage B7 is a lot more likely to need a new motor, they don't age well. The 1.8T while not as sophisticated is one of the most dependable motors that Audi has made. Either is getting to be an old car that's going to take some kind of work to keep running and if your paying a shop it can get expensive.

[dalazybastard]

All regarding the 1.8t,

Small filter, Extended Change Intervals, and Short drives.

These 3 tended to cause the most sludge for the 1.8t. Early on they were suggesting a longer than 4k OCI (around 10k) and a small filter.

Short drives, small filter, and extended intervals (with not the greatest oil (compared to today)) is what did most of these engines in.

Oil-pump is a non-issue. The pickup being clean is more pertinent. Either sludge, silicone, or particles (typically the timing chain tensioner guides)

A clean pickup, fresh timing belt service, and a good timing-chain tensioner tend to keep 1.8t’s alive.

Of the ones I’ve seen dead, most of them have been a clogged pickup, broken timing belt, and malfunctioning timing chain tensioner.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[a4darkness]

Overwhelmingly a 1.8t over a 2.0t.

[Gin+]

I own both and both have had their pros and cons. I wouldn't shy away from either in regards to purchasing a b6/b7.