Clock spring replacement

[Brian Bello]

Does anyone know if the dealership has to re-program the clock spring once installing a new one ? I ordered one and connected it , but my turn signals and buttons on my steering wheel still don’t work.

The only other issue I can think of is an electrical fault, but all the wires are intact.

Appreciate anyones insight !

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[Smac770]

Be easier to scan for DTCs and see if the car is already aware a problem is present. If component protection was active, it would be a listed DTC.

[Brian Bello]

Be easier to scan for DTCs and see if the car is already aware a problem is present. If component protection was active, it would be a listed DTC.

I got aloooot of codes, mainly because I replaced my steering wheel and in the process managed to pull out the wire from the original clock spring.

I installed the new clock spring but all buttons an signals are still not operable , do you recommend I clear them all first ?


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[Smac770]

Yeah, same as any time you do work on the car. You're going to get codes for stuff in progress. Once you're done, clear all DTCs and see what comes back.

Once you have a clear, just new codes since the work was finalized, then you can consider them actual and relevant and work through them.

[Smac770]

Also, SHCKR in the other thread implied you've replaced your original steering wheel? Is the current wheel not an actual Audi original B9 wheel? There could be complications with the wheel then.

[Brian Bello]

Yeah , the steering wheel itself has no electrical components, everything wiring and electrical was used from the old one and just transferred over.

My guess is there is a short somewhere in the wiring , or a special scan tool is needed for long coding to activate the new clock sensor. (My guess)

I’ll put on the old steering wheel and see if that will make a difference, it’s starting to look like I’ll need to go into the dealer anyway since i don’t have long coding capabilities.


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[Smac770]

You should just buy a tool so you have it in hand is you're going to own this car for a while. Something like this, you're going to need VCDS or OBDeleven Pro as you'll need to run the steering angle sensor basic setting. Since the part number reflects the car configuration, I would have expected the coding to have been set already. Do you even have your coding recorded from your old J527 (address 0x16, steering wheel)? I don't think there's any component protection, so the dealership is not absolutely necessary (VCDS and such can't help with component protection). But if you don't have basic settings / adaptations / long coding in your toolset, you might consider acquiring them. Or you're definitely down to the dealership for one hour labor.

[SHCKR]

Also, SHCKR in the other thread implied you've replaced your original steering wheel? Is the current wheel not an actual Audi original B9 wheel? There could be complications with the wheel then.

All of my 3 wheels have been OEM

[Smac770]

All of my 3 wheels have been OEM

? Ok.

I was asking the OP about his wheel. And he said his wheel didn't come with the electronics, he transplanted his multifunction buttons and multifunction button harness to the new wheel. So it's the same electronics from his original wheel. And it sounds like from the other thread, he also reused the airbag harness from the original wheel.

[Brian Bello]

? Ok.

I was asking the OP about his wheel. And he said his wheel didn't come with the electronics, he transplanted his multifunction buttons and multifunction button harness to the new wheel. So it's the same electronics from his original wheel. And it sounds like from the other thread, he also reused the airbag harness from the original wheel.

Unfortunately, I have OBD11 but it doesn’t allow me to perform long coding ( maybe because I have an iPhone and not an android).

I’m seriously lost I took it to a different dealership for a diagnosis and they told me I needed a new air bag, even though all the wiring on the original airbag seems to be intact.

They said they couldn’t even calibrate my steering angle sensor until I get a new airbag cuz apparently it was a safety hazard. ( I’ve removed the airbag cover with the airbag like 5 times already by myself) lol

I’m considering buying a VCDS tool now for long coding purposes.


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[Brian Bello]

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[Smac770]

Yeah, if you don't have the Pro subscription ($30/year), OBDeleven doesn't provide you the good stuff. Just basic scanning DTCs, clearing DTCs, reading live data values, and then the one button apps like electronic parking brake retract/restore.


But I do not yet see a full scan log posted (think OBDeleven stores it as a history file?), so I still do not know what basis we're working from. Also, do you have a scan log from before doing any of this, so we can see what the J527 revision was before this? J527 = designation for the control module in the steering column switch module. J527 is far easier to type than "steering column switch module".

I presume this is from an OBDeleven scan log: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a4-.../#post25500600
Versus a VCDS scan log:https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/20442/

In either case, it appears the J527 (address 16) no longer has long coding. This is likely why there's an f ton of revisions out there, for every previously coding-configured variation possible.


What is their problem with the airbag? "they told me I needed a new air bag", exactly what information did they see that implied there was an airbag problem? You very well could have pinched a wire in the airbag harness or the button harness. Ring it out and check. NEVER apply a multimeter probe to a wire still attached to an airbag igniter.


You are still using your original airbag and original airbag harness? And original multifunction buttons and original buttons harness? The right buttons have the 4-pin plug to the airbag harness.

pin 1 - purple - T12f pin 9 - LIN bus
pin 2 - red - T12f pin 8 - 12v
pin 3 - brown - T12f pin 10 - ground
pin 4 - blue - goes to horn - +V to the horn

Did you check that red to brown reads +12v? Is the purple line ok? The blue line should pass 12v to the horn. The horn then has a brown line back into the harness, which joins with the brown line from the buttons on to the T12f pin 10.