walnut blasting tool ?????

[jaimsterQ]

hey guiys ,

got my intake manifold removed replacing the PCV, water pump , t-stat ,I m seeing carbon build up lots of it , how to get rid of keep hearing walnut blasting !!! don't know much about \
where to get the tool kit , working on a budget less than 150.00

suggestions appreciated ..

[430hps4]

https://www.rkxtech.com/products/rkx...d-audi-engines


https://www.harborfreight.com/110-lb...ter-69724.html



https://www.harborfreight.com/25-lbs...dia-92155.html


https://www.harborfreight.com/air-bl...ion-68257.html

- - - Updated - - -

That's everything you need, assuming you have an air compressor and shopvac

[Discipulus]

I'm literally cleaning my intake valves this weekend and I tried using the harbor freight media blaster but couldn't get it to work.

I tried the medium grit walnut shells, which didn't work, then tried the fine grit shells but they still didn't actually blast for more than 1/2 of a second before just blowing air.
Compressor was set to 90, 120, then 140 PSI. Got almost 1 full second of blasting at 140psi before it started blowing just air once more.
As far as I can tell the Harbor Freight blaster just needs VERY fine media, or I need a much bigger compressor.

Either way, ymmv.

I ended up just using BG Induction System Cleaner which is some very very effective nasty stuff but dang it got the job done pretty quick. Only a couple hours of spraying chemical and sucking it back out and my valves are almost clean. As I type this I'm about to go rotate the crank to get that last valve closed.

[AudiA4_20T]

I'm literally cleaning my intake valves this weekend and I tried using the harbor freight media blaster but couldn't get it to work.

I tried the medium grit walnut shells, which didn't work, then tried the fine grit shells but they still didn't actually blast for more than 1/2 of a second before just blowing air.
Compressor was set to 90, 120, then 140 PSI. Got almost 1 full second of blasting at 140psi before it started blowing just air once more.
As far as I can tell the Harbor Freight blaster just needs VERY fine media, or I need a much bigger compressor.

Either way, ymmv.

I ended up just using BG Induction System Cleaner which is some very very effective nasty stuff but dang it got the job done pretty quick. Only a couple hours of spraying chemical and sucking it back out and my valves are almost clean. As I type this I'm about to go rotate the crank to get that last valve closed.

Take some pics? I left that stuff in overnight and it didn't seem to do much

[MSq5]

Take some pics? I left that stuff in overnight and it didn't seem to do much

I'm guessing he probably let it soak, scrubbed with some sort of brush, suctioned it out, flushed with clean gasoline, wipe, then blow dry with compressed air. Either that, or his deposits weren't really baked on hard. That's what I've done on other platforms with similar Berryman's Chemtooll B-12. A bit labor intensive but they come out spotless.

[Discipulus]

Take some pics? I left that stuff in overnight and it didn't seem to do much

I didn't do a good job with before and after photos but here you go. My method is not quite as good as walnut blasting so at the end I still have some carbon and a little junk at the bottom. But not nearly as much. I figure the last 10% was probably not worth the effort and probably wouldn't make much difference.

I'm guessing he probably let it soak, scrubbed with some sort of brush, suctioned it out, flushed with clean gasoline, wipe, then blow dry with compressed air. Either that, or his deposits weren't really baked on hard. That's what I've done on other platforms with similar Berryman's Chemtooll B-12. A bit labor intensive but they come out spotless.

Correct. Combination of soaking the valves in BG ISC, plus scraping them with picks, a plastic brush set on the end of my drill, and lots of rags.
I do have a fluid extractor that I used as well to suck up the majority of the loose material and gunky fluid. Had to air-blast clean the clogged fluid extractor hoses afterwards though.

I actually used BG ISC in a spray bottle to rinse things down too. Though after a few hours the spray bottle started to melt so there's that.
If you use this stuff, be outdoors, wear goggles and gloves. It's nasty stuff. 20210921_113650.jpg20210926_084112.jpg

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[Norskie]

I'm literally cleaning my intake valves this weekend and I tried using the harbor freight media blaster but couldn't get it to work.

I tried the medium grit walnut shells, which didn't work, then tried the fine grit shells but they still didn't actually blast for more than 1/2 of a second before just blowing air.
Compressor was set to 90, 120, then 140 PSI. Got almost 1 full second of blasting at 140psi before it started blowing just air once more.
As far as I can tell the Harbor Freight blaster just needs VERY fine media, or I need a much bigger compressor.

Either way, ymmv.

I ended up just using BG Induction System Cleaner which is some very very effective nasty stuff but dang it got the job done pretty quick. Only a couple hours of spraying chemical and sucking it back out and my valves are almost clean. As I type this I'm about to go rotate the crank to get that last valve closed.

I used that HF tool with a 20-gal compressor and had no issues like that.

[jaimsterQ]

thank you all for your suggestions.
just came back from Calif yesterday family emergency .. today I m getting ready to get back to it to pull out the intake dividers so I guess depending how they look ! will determine which way to go ??.
before I left to Calif, had ordered the ECS tuning system which was never delivered after two weeks ,, out of stock back order was told - cancelled the order yesterday

[jaimsterQ]

I happened to have almost two full gallons of Berryman's B12 so I guess will give that a try ...

i order the crankshaft special tool 1412 however it may take few days to get here from Amazon - Any body knows any other way to TURN the crankshaft in order to close the valves so I can start with cleaning ..??? got four days off this week still - would like to get this done ASP , this afternoon got the new PCV , water pump , thermostat on still to be torqued tomorrow...

[bb-tt]

if you have access or know someone with a 3d printer file is on thingiverse i also made an adapter out of a sprinkler head that fits tight in cc adapter so didnt have to hold the shopvac hose can just worry about aiming the blaster.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4187002

[Norskie]

https://rkxtech.com/collections/tool...d-audi-engines

[Discipulus]

I happened to have almost two full gallons of Berryman's B12 so I guess will give that a try ...

i order the crankshaft special tool 1412 however it may take few days to get here from Amazon - Any body knows any other way to TURN the crankshaft in order to close the valves so I can start with cleaning ..??? got four days off this week still - would like to get this done ASP , this afternoon got the new PCV , water pump , thermostat on still to be torqued tomorrow...

I pulled the plugs and was able to turn the crank with my hands.

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[kt883]

I'm literally cleaning my intake valves this weekend and I tried using the harbor freight media blaster but couldn't get it to work.

I tried the medium grit walnut shells, which didn't work, then tried the fine grit shells but they still didn't actually blast for more than 1/2 of a second before just blowing air.
Compressor was set to 90, 120, then 140 PSI. Got almost 1 full second of blasting at 140psi before it started blowing just air once more.
As far as I can tell the Harbor Freight blaster just needs VERY fine media, or I need a much bigger compressor.

Either way, ymmv.

I ended up just using BG Induction System Cleaner which is some very very effective nasty stuff but dang it got the job done pretty quick. Only a couple hours of spraying chemical and sucking it back out and my valves are almost clean. As I type this I'm about to go rotate the crank to get that last valve closed.

I think you need clean dry air as well. I have a blasting cabinet and found that before I installed an inline dryer the air was too moist and would clog the gun. After I fixed my drain valve and drained my compressor its much better.



Also the guy that posted the materials list, that blaster gun will not work its just an air blaster, you need a media gun that takes in air and siphons up media

[jaimsterQ]

so I decided to buy the harbor freight 20 gallon unit after all - hopefully I will do the job!!!!
I also ordered fine walnut shells , tool to turn the crankshaft and the valve cleaning tool . should have all that by friday .
question NOW what else do I need for the set up ..? I do have a 25 gallon compressor with a drier on it any gun or anything else I should get ?

[Protection]

so I decided to buy the harbor freight 20 gallon unit after all - hopefully I will do the job!!!!
I also ordered fine walnut shells , tool to turn the crankshaft and the valve cleaning tool . should have all that by friday .
question NOW what else do I need for the set up ..? I do have a 25 gallon compressor with a drier on it any gun or anything else I should get ?

I used the Horror Freight blaster to do my RS4 and it worked great. I also used an in-line dryer as well. My compressor is relatively small, so I had to wait a few seconds between blasts, but still went relatively quick.






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[jaimsterQ]

I used the Horror Freight blaster to do my RS4 and it worked great. I also used an in-line dryer as well. My compressor is relatively small, so I had to wait a few seconds between blasts, but still went relatively quick.






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WOW ! they looked great thanks for the photos .

did you use any other guns / tips or just what the unit comes with ? and time on blaster before starting vacuming? my compressor is 30 gallons CFM's from 5.6 to 7.4 40 to 120 PSI.. so I think that is good NO!

[m4gician]

That looks really, really good.

I'm tempted one summer day next year to do it all myself over a weekend and go at it. If I don't get a walnut blaster, just go at it with chemicals and picks. Though I'll need the crank tool to rotate it.

[Protection]

WOW ! they looked great thanks for the photos .

did you use any other guns / tips or just what the unit comes with ? and time on blaster before starting vacuming? my compressor is 30 gallons CFM's from 5.6 to 7.4 40 to 120 PSI.. so I think that is good NO!

I bought the blasting tip from FCP Euro

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-euro-b1100003

My compression is only 5.2 gallons 6.5 CFM and it worked fine.

You need the adapter tool so can vacuum at the same time as you blast. I have the overpriced 034 Motorsport one, but any eBay model should work fine.




Here is the Amazon dryer I used


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[MSq5]

I'm curious about the necessity of the intake port adapter. I've not done the valve cleaning yet. I did just do a PCV valve replacement at 76,000 miles and the intake valves, surprisingly, had very little build-up. And, I'm stage 2 dual pulley and have been at stage 1 or higher for over 50,000 miles.

Two questions:

1. Why not just cut out a cardboard template to cover the ports on each manifold and make a small hole over each port to insert the blaster wand/tip? We've done that for years on other direct injection four valve (twin intake valves per port) platforms. Costs zero and works fine.

2. Why are many intakes very carbon and "gunk" crusted, while others are not? I'm just running 93 octane pump gas. No meth injection or anything else.

At 76,000 miles my intake valves only looked like this, so I left them alone:



This is typical of all cylinders.

[Protection]

I'm curious about the necessity of the intake port adapter. I've not done the valve cleaning yet. I did just do a PCV valve replacement at 76,000 miles and the intake valves, surprisingly, had very little build-up. And, I'm stage 2 dual pulley and have been at stage 1 or higher for over 50,000 miles.

Two questions:

1. Why not just cut out a cardboard template to cover the ports on each manifold and make a small hole over each port to insert the blaster wand/tip? We've done that for years on other direct injection four valve (twin intake valves per port) platforms. Costs zero and works fine.

2. Why are many intakes very carbon and "gunk" crusted, while others are not? I'm just running 93 octane pump gas. No meth injection or anything else.

At 76,000 miles my intake valves only looked like this, so I left them alone:



This is typical of all cylinders.

Using a piece of cardboard or stuffing a rag in the port would probably work fine. The advantage of having the port tool is that it fits snugly into the intake port. The suction from the vacuum will help hold it in place while you use one hand to guide the wand on the blaster and the other hand to control the flow via the open and close valve on the wand. It is really awkward (or maybe I am uncoordinated) to have to hold the vacuum hose with one hand and wand with the other. I think if you had an assistant to hold the vacuum, you could easily get away without the adapter.

As far as carbon build up, the amount depends on engine design. Every B7 RS4 I have seen in forums and in user groups looks like my pics after 60k miles. I wonder if the blower helps keep the oil coating the back of the valves down.


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[AudiA4_20T]

if anyone wants to sell me their kit after they're done that'd be great. I wish companies just rented it

[jaimsterQ]

so I tried the harbor freight unit DID NOT WORK FOR ME Discipulus was right ! more of a big mess not good results , so ended up using the chemicals CHEM DRY Berryman's B12
I had previously thought about using NOT bad NOT prefect , close the valves poured it in there let it seat for few hours , came back with plastic small brushes got from harbor freight - ( I have a pretty good air compressor just NOT clean air , not a dryer good set up , need to make that a project soon )
I will post some pictures how it looks tomorrow ..

LEFT TO DO putting the front end back on and under covers , started up already even thought lots of white smoke! figure the chemicals in the combustion chamber was burning out ! I m gonna let it run tomorrow for a while make sure I GOT NO coolant leaks !!!

so I GOT a new PVC, water pump, thermostat , belts , cleaned air intake chambers

its a job ! from 1 to 10 probably a 7 ??

thank you all for your help..

[MSq5]

so I tried the harbor freight unit DID NOT WORK FOR ME Discipulus was right ! more of a big mess not good results , so ended up using the chemicals CHEM DRY Berryman's B12
I had previously thought about using NOT bad NOT prefect , close the valves poured it in there let it seat for few hours , came back with plastic small brushes got from harbor freight - ( I have a pretty good air compressor just NOT clean air , not a dryer good set up , need to make that a project soon )
I will post some pictures how it looks tomorrow ..

LEFT TO DO putting the front end back on and under covers , started up already even thought lots of white smoke! figure the chemicals in the combustion chamber was burning out ! I m gonna let it run tomorrow for a while make sure I GOT NO coolant leaks !!!

so I GOT a new PVC, water pump, thermostat , belts , cleaned air intake chambers

its a job ! from 1 to 10 probably a 7 ??

thank you all for your help..

Don't know it it's required, but when I've done intake valve cleaning with Berryman' Chemtool B-12 a number of times on other platforms, I've always waited until time to do an oil change and then changed the engine oil right after the valve vleaning. B12 is very effective, but messy.

[Discipulus]

Nice job @jaimsterQ, it's quite a lot of work but you'll probably not have to worry about your engine for quite a while now.

[jaimsterQ]

man ! should have known better ! had the car running before assembling the front end .. all the sudden starts smelling fuel / fuel leaking real bad from front of engine
so I Took sensors off , coolant hoses disconnected and supercharger off it goes again to investigate further !!

when replacing the O rings on the injectors I used MAHLE GS33503 kit - DID NOT WORK OUT FOR ME ! I kept the old green / flat split rings at the button , they are all broken including the top new rings .. plan now to get right kit from either ecstunning or urotunning or fCP
question :

when replacing the ring set any thing in particular I should be careful with ? or is it pretty straight forward

remove clips , pull injector and replace all three pieces ??

its really injectors seal kit - its what I need to get question should be - should i remove NOW the injectors out and replace all the pieces including small teflon seal at botton ( special tool needed for that I can buy it ) ?

[Discipulus]

man ! should have known better ! had the car running before assembling the front end .. all the sudden starts smelling fuel / fuel leaking real bad from front of engine
so I Took sensors off , coolant hoses disconnected and supercharger off it goes again to investigate further !!

when replacing the O rings on the injectors I used MAHLE GS33503 kit - DID NOT WORK OUT FOR ME ! I kept the old green / flat split rings at the button , they are all broken including the top new rings .. plan now to get right kit from either ecstunning or urotunning or fCP
question :

when replacing the ring set any thing in particular I should be careful with ? or is it pretty straight forward

remove clips , pull injector and replace all three pieces ??

its really injectors seal kit - its what I need to get question should be - should i remove NOW the injectors out and replace all the pieces including small teflon seal at botton ( special tool needed for that I can buy it ) ?

If all your injectors remained in the block and were not at all dislodged or removed then I would personally avoid the hassle of removing them and replacing the Teflon seals. However if even 1 of them came loose then for good measure I'd remove and reseal all of them so they're consistent. At that time you can also clean the tips with injector cleaner.

But yeah, easiest option if they didn't pull out or get loose is to just simply replace the upper o-rings and call it a day.

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[jaimsterQ]

wow ! that's exactly what happened now - ONE injector came loose from the block , so guess I m looking at doing all the seal kits on all of them NOW ..
i m also thinking about ordering the tool kit from amazon

thanks Discipulus

[Discipulus]

wow ! that's exactly what happened now - ONE injector came loose from the block , so guess I m looking at doing all the seal kits on all of them NOW ..
i m also thinking about ordering the tool kit from amazon

thanks Discipulus

I bought the cheap kit from Amazon as well, but luckily never needed to use it as my injectors stayed down. If they did come up though I wanted to be ready.

Those injector seal kits are expensive as heck though so I don't envy you there. $100+ just for seals good lord they're making a killing.

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[bb-tt]

wow ! that's exactly what happened now - ONE injector came loose from the block , so guess I m looking at doing all the seal kits on all of them NOW ..
i m also thinking about ordering the tool kit from amazon

thanks Discipulus

Zink's new shop is close to you i would call and ask what he would charge if you brought in the injectors and seals, might be cheaper than the tool. I upgraded to a new higher flow injector when i did mine so didn't have to deal with changing the seals.

[serg72]

wow ! that's exactly what happened now - ONE injector came loose from the block , so guess I m looking at doing all the seal kits on all of them NOW ..
i m also thinking about ordering the tool kit from amazon

thanks Discipulus

Hi friend, this is exactly the situation that happened to me when I was cleaning the valves. Several nozzles came out of place. I took out everything else and cleaned it. I used this video to replace teflon rings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWgTw6FOD-g&t=25s

Warning! Under no circumstances should you use any grease to install the ring on the injector and when you put the injector in place.

[jaimsterQ]

in the process of removing the other 5 injectors , 2 of them came apart they were really stuck in there ,even thought i used the Injector puller kit for audi ! NOW I found and bought 4 used injectors I found on Ebay OEM ones should be here by mid next week - I will be cleaning them and testing them using a EM276 injector tester ( had purchased it a while back )

wish me luck !

thanks Serg72 I will check that video out !

[jaimsterQ]

So I finished replacing the seals on all the injectors also cleaning them and testing them all seems spraying pretty good ! i put it all back together
it seems to be idleling pretty good for the most part , I drove it - THEM I got check engine light codes P2006 , P2007 intake manifold runner control stuck closed bank 1a and bank 2a (P2007) what NOW !!

do I take the turbo off again... ??? or any other suggestions

[6SpeedS4]

So I finished replacing the seals on all the injectors also cleaning them and testing them all seems spraying pretty good ! i put it all back together
it seems to be idleling pretty good for the most part , I drove it - THEM I got check engine light codes P2006 , P2007 intake manifold runner control stuck closed bank 1a and bank 2a (P2007) what NOW !!

do I take the turbo off again... ??? or any other suggestions

Yea charger comes off. You have to push the flaps down as you reinstall the manifold.

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[jaimsterQ]

thanks 6spped4 .

can i just loosen the manifold and lift them then push all the flappers down as i reinstall them - or do have to completley remove them and reinstall them ? and can I drive it like that till saturday ?
or any risk of causing any damage to the engine ?

[MSq5]

thanks 6spped4 .

can i just loosen the manifold and lift them then push all the flappers down as i reinstall them - or do have to completley remove them and reinstall them ? and can I drive it like that till saturday ?
or any risk of causing any damage to the engine ?

You remove the supercharger and loosen the upper manifold and lift while pressing the flappers down. Yes, you should be able to lift enough to free up the flappers without pulling the upper manifold completely off. You will still have to disconnect the hard fuel line before it will lift up, I would think. I've not tried this. Merely going by memory.

[Discipulus]

You can also get a little pick or angled piece of metal to pull on the actuator arms and verify they move. This is much easier than pulling the supercharger again.

In my case I got these codes because I accidentally put the vacuum lines on backwards on the backside of the supercharger. Once I got the lines attached to the correct vacuum ports it all started working.

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[jaimsterQ]

thanks Guys,

I actually pulled the supercharger off yesterday afternoon PIA removing the belt without pulling the front end out ! not much room there got underneath to turn the tensioner - but I got it loose.
found all the intake runner flappers above the metal ( valve dividers ) so YEA! IT is there where the problem was - I will make sure as I m installing the intakes again to move the flappers down bellow the metal dividers ! oh well live and learn . luckily when I pulled the intakes up NONE of the injectors came out ! I m glad about that ..I feel after doing all the seals and testing the injectors they seem to be working pretty good

ONLY mishap I had - removing the top coolant hoses from supercharger - ended breaking the rigid/ hard plastic tip on the cross over radiator hose that connects to the hose going to the radiator .oh well I know I can fix that with JB well(plastic application) and short plastic line /hose ....

[Discipulus]

ONLY mishap I had - removing the top coolant hoses from supercharger - ended breaking the rigid/ hard plastic tip on the cross over radiator hose that connects to the hose going to the radiator .oh well I know I can fix that with JB well(plastic application) and short plastic line /hose ....

That sucks! I was so nervous about cracking this on mine as well. It's difficult to wiggle the coolant hose off of those plastic crossover pipes.

[jaimsterQ]

JB weld does wonders .... haha it worked ! so I finished reassembling everything back today , drove it so far so good it feels pretty damm good , I m just waiting oil and filter so I can replace that then
I m looking at getting the performance air intake , any suggestions ?

[Discipulus]

JB weld does wonders .... haha it worked ! so I finished reassembling everything back today , drove it so far so good it feels pretty damm good , I m just waiting oil and filter so I can replace that then
I m looking at getting the performance air intake , any suggestions ?

If you enjoy loud supercharger whine sounds then almost all of the aftermarket options will be very similar. Pick your favorite brand, they're all going to perform just about the same and give you that lovely supercharger noises.
If you prefer a quieter ride with only a small amount of supercharger noise, then go with an AFE Pro Dry air filter which bolts up to the factory spot. You can also go a step further and drill out a hole in the bottom of your factory airbox to provide more air inlet without letting out too much noise. Then combine this with an 034 Motorsports silicone intake tube and get rid of that plastic junk. This is what a lot of us have done, including myself.