Max power achievable from 2018 TTRS?

[snoopi]

So just curious, what is the maximum pwr/tq, I can achieve from full bolt on mods to a TT RS 2018?

What would this setup consist of in parts? Could someone please write down a list for me, for basically getting the best performance without opening the motor, and still street usable if possible?


Exhaust system, fuel system, Turbo upgrade, downpipe, intercooler, gearbox (dsg) upgrades, anything else, etc etc?

What would the approximate cost be in USD or AUD for all the mods and tune?

Would it be better to run straight e85 or stick with pump fuel or flex?

And what would the maintenance costs be associated with running a highly modified TT RS like that?

Thank you if anyone can answer these questions for me, as this will help me decide whether I get a MKIII TTRS or not.

[8STTRS]

Well, this is a bit of a loaded question as you're going to get several different answers as to what is safe and what isn't. But, here goes nothing.

Cold air
Turbo Inlet
Intercooler
Downpipe
Tune/trans tune
E85 if possible - flex fuel is only an option with one particular tuning company.
Spark plugs
Dogbone mount

And a slew of miscellaneous parts that can be particular to your build. There's other stuff like a Syvecs Haldex controller, smaller/lighter wheels and tires, lighter brakes, rear seat deletes, etc., etc. The list can go on for quite a while. However, the aforementioned list covers the bases for most folks in the bolt-on range. Beyond that and you're looking at hybrid or full frame turbos. Which is where most folks will likely tell you to build the bottom end (rods, pistons, bearings, studs, etc.). Cost will be highly dependent upon the items you choose. It could be anywhere from $3k (buying used parts) to $10k++ for bolt ons. Maintenance for a full bolt on car is really no different than normal, but perhaps you may want to decrease the time between normal intervals. Like change your oil a bit more often, check/change plugs, etc. Getting things like a oil and DSG catch can could also be beneficial but technically add no power to the car. I hope that helps.

Oh, and the list above, under the right conditions, should (someone correct me if I'm wrong) allow you to dip into the 9's on the stock turbo with a TT RS.

[Jeff_Jeske]

I can only share my experience.

I immediately upgraded my tune to Stage 1 E85 which was good for a 10.6@130 in the 1/4. The only bolt on mod was a bigger FMIC.

I then upgraded to Stage 2 E85 by adding a UNI downpipe and UNI injectors. This was good for 10.4@132 in the 1/4. I have not added the inlet or intake which should be good for another 20whp - 30whp.

With basic weight reduction you can achieve 9s in the quarter mile. What power level is that? Follow this link: https://www.getunitronic.com/ecu-tun...018-stage2-e85

[snoopi]

Interesting, so you don't need alot to get into 10s with a MK3 TTRS?

How about maintenance costs at stage 2 or 3?

A local shop down here says maintenance costs will be high for such a build.

The same shop also said not to go e85 because the ethanol consistency in our area is not very good. They also said to we will make more power doing a turbo upgrade rather than dealing with the head aches of going e85 on a MK3?

Can anyone share their thoughts on this area, is it a head ache to go e85 on this platform? And is it better to stay away from that if I want to be able to get maximum performance?

I am coming from a Nissan 370Z Twin Turbo platform, and on that platform it is absolutely much better to go e85 over pump fuel, and it isn't all too difficult to change to e85 either, just need a good return fuel system upgrade over the stock returnless system, also add bigger injectors, pump and tune. Done, Pretty simple.

So I don't see why it isn't the same on other platforms.

[mtwallace85]

Interesting, so you don't need alot to get into 10s with a MK3 TTRS?

How about maintenance costs at stage 2 or 3?

A local shop down here says maintenance costs will be high for such a build.

The same shop also said not to go e85 because the ethanol consistency in our area is not very good. They also said to we will make more power doing a turbo upgrade rather than dealing with the head aches of going e85 on a MK3?

Can anyone share their thoughts on this area, is it a head ache to go e85 on this platform? And is it better to stay away from that if I want to be able to get maximum performance?

I am coming from a Nissan 370Z Twin Turbo platform, and on that platform it is absolutely much better to go e85 over pump fuel, and it isn't all too difficult to change to e85 either, just need a good return fuel system upgrade over the stock returnless system, also add bigger injectors, pump and tune. Done, Pretty simple.

So I don't see why it isn't the same on other platforms.

If you want maximum performance, e85 is the only way to go. As far as having consistent e85, you can always get a flex fuel tune and just not worry about it. 10s on this platform is super easy to achieve. As far as the turbo upgrade goes, depending on which one you get, you can achieve similar or the same performance on the stock turbo with e85 as you can running 93 with the aftermarket turbo. Maintenance costs on e85 isn’t much more than stock, I think you just need to change the spark plugs more often and that’s about it, but I could be wrong. Does somebody want to verify that for me? You’ll probably have to change your brakes and tires more often because it’ll be that much faster lol, but that’s all I can think of. To convert all you really need is the tune, spark plugs, and bigger injectors. Only if you go full frame and shoot for the moon will you need to add a fuel pump and other fuel system mods.

[John@DEADBEEF_DynoSp]

DS1 supports flex fuel so you can safely exploit the performance and cooling effects with any blend of gasoline and ethanol. You can start with a completely stock TTRS and add a flex fuel sensor, plug in a DS1, it takes a minute to get your version from our server and then less than 4 minutes to do the first flash. Your ethanol content will appear on the virtual cockpit and you can go and fill up with whatever blend you want, whenever you want. Subsequent changes of parts requires a 30 second flash or the tuner can custom tune it in realtime whilst the engine is running whilst running logging that is far and away better than anything else.

[Jeff_Jeske]

I guess what we are all saying is that the stock turbo has enough airflow to bend rods. I feel like the standard Stage 2 E85 tunes are borderline unsafe long term. I run a detuned Stage 2 E85 file (-40whp) from the standard file for DD and road racing.

John might have a different opinion but I like to keep my power level around 500/500 at the wheels. Most off the shelf tunes are 550/540. Below is a graph of Stage 2 E85 power. Intake vs Stock Box vs Lapping Day Tune.

[Jeff_Jeske]

To run the lapping day tune you don't need anything but a FMIC. The stock inlet, intake and piping will not restrict power level even in 90* weather. Some of the bolt on parts are just marketing fluff to take your money. Personally I wish I would have stayed Stage 1 E85. No need for a downpipe, injectors, inlet or an intake. Even the upgraded FMIC is questionable with E85. Mid 10s with a only a tune and the proper spark plugs.

[snoopi]

Wow, really?

Only need a tune from stock MK3 to hit 10s? Is that with street tyres?

If so, then it is really an impressive platform.

Another guy here says that 550whp is probably the limit of bending rods on these motors.

Can anyone elaborate on that, how many times has it been tested and failed? I would like to hope these TTRS motors stock internals can handle atleast that much power? Reason I say this, is because even the TT 370Z VQ37 motors in stock form that I am coming from can handle upwards of 600-700whp reliably these days with the rite tuner and supporting mods.

So I would like to think a more higher end car like the TTRS can handle atleast around 600whp?

But then again I suppose a 550whp TTRS is still going to be quicker than a 650whp 370Z from the sounds of things.

[mtwallace85]

Wow, really?

Only need a tune from stock MK3 to hit 10s? Is that with street tyres?

If so, then it is really an impressive platform.

Another guy here says that 550whp is probably the limit of bending rods on these motors.

Can anyone elaborate on that, how many times has it been tested and failed? I would like to hope these TTRS motors stock internals can handle atleast that much power? Reason I say this, is because even the TT 370Z VQ37 motors in stock form that I am coming from can handle upwards of 600-700whp reliably these days with the rite tuner and supporting mods.

So I would like to think a more higher end car like the TTRS can handle atleast around 600whp?

But then again I suppose a 550whp TTRS is still going to be quicker than a 650whp 370Z from the sounds of things.

There’s a lot of variables to consider, but yeah, I’d imagine even a 500whp will at least keep up if not beat the 370z. While yes this motor is iconic and can put down some amazing numbers, the transmission is also a big reason the car is so fast. As far as the stock 370z motor being able to handle more power despite being cheaper and from a lower end car, that’s not unheard of. You can pick up LS motors for next to nothing and build them to over 1000whp. Finally, keep in mind it’s the torque and not the horsepower that bends rods. What kind of torque are those 600whp+ 370zs putting down?

[Jeff_Jeske]

There are plenty of people running more power without issue but it's a gamble. I road race the car, sometimes I'm thrashing on it for all full 20 minute session in 90* heat with an average 5 sessions per event. That is probably 100x the wear and tear of making 3 quarter mile passes.

At 500/500 I don't worry as much about things letting go. In the back of my mind I'd still like to build the block though.

[snoopi]

Ok, one more question.
Is the Audi TTRS considered a rich mans car when it comes to expenses?

For example, servicing, maintenance etc, especially when modded is it higher than your average sports car when all the costs are considered?

Just asking, because currently in my 550whp TT 370Z it is fairly reasonable for maintenance, service and repairs in costs.

If I were to sell it up to a TTRS, not sure if that would also mean a step up in yearly expenses on the car?

[8STTRS]

Ok, one more question.
Is the Audi TTRS considered a rich mans car when it comes to expenses?

For example, servicing, maintenance etc, especially when modded is it higher than your average sports car when all the costs are considered?

Just asking, because currently in my 550whp TT 370Z it is fairly reasonable for maintenance, service and repairs in costs.

If I were to sell it up to a TTRS, not sure if that would also mean a step up in yearly expenses on the car?

I think this is all perspective as to what is construed as expensive. I haven't experienced anything yet with this car that has made me wince outside of the estimates I'm getting to build the engine and make it a bit spicier. I think the costs are fairly run of the mill for a German car but, not as expensive as it seems compared to a Mercedes.

[Jeff_Jeske]

Ok, one more question.
Is the Audi TTRS considered a rich mans car when it comes to expenses?

For example, servicing, maintenance etc, especially when modded is it higher than your average sports car when all the costs are considered?

Just asking, because currently in my 550whp TT 370Z it is fairly reasonable for maintenance, service and repairs in costs.

If I were to sell it up to a TTRS, not sure if that would also mean a step up in yearly expenses on the car?

No question there is an Audi "tax" on parts. You end up paying more for things simply because the sellers know you can afford to pay more.

As for Maintenance I'd say no. In fact most of us buy everything thru FCPEuro and they have a lifetime warranty on everything as long as you send back the used product.

Oil w/filter and sealing rings
Transmission oil
Haldex fluid
Rear diff oil
Brake fluid
Spark plugs

Everything is free after the first time buying it. I've never seen such a program before in my life! Yes it costs something to ship it back but it's far less than paying for these parts over and over.

I've also found that my particular dealer is extremely helpful. If the car goes in for warranty work I get a high end loaner.

If buying nuts and bolts they always have them in stock and will typically discount them just for being an RS owner.

In all honesty this car has provided me the best user experience I've ever had with a modified 10 second platform.

Now when I think back about other cars and think about clutches that needed to be replaced, sycros that started grinding and interiors that were made from eco crap boxes I simply laugh!

[comingabriel]

No question there is an Audi "tax" on parts. You end up paying more for things simply because the sellers know you can afford to pay more.

As for Maintenance I'd say no. In fact most of us buy everything thru FCPEuro and they have a lifetime warranty on everything as long as you send back the used product.

Oil w/filter and sealing rings
Transmission oil
Haldex fluid
Rear diff oil
Brake fluid
Spark plugs

Everything is free after the first time buying it. I've never seen such a program before in my life! Yes it costs something to ship it back but it's far less than paying for these parts over and over.

I've also found that my particular dealer is extremely helpful. If the car goes in for warranty work I get a high end loaner.

If buying nuts and bolts they always have them in stock and will typically discount them just for being an RS owner.

In all honesty this car has provided me the best user experience I've ever had with a modified 10 second platform.

Now when I think back about other cars and think about clutches that needed to be replaced, sycros that started grinding and interiors that were made from eco crap boxes I simply laugh!

I am considering Uni Stage 1 E85 flash, but doesn't E85 tax the DI (and PI if Stage 2) seals.
What do you suggest (parts/upgrade) as far as making the car more E85 resistant/happy?

[Jeff_Jeske]

Stage 1 E85 is a beast and perhaps the best of both worlds as far as bang for buck goes.

E85 is 100% safe. Probably safer than running 93 without the E85 booster (adding a gallon of E85 to every 6-7 gallons of 93).

DI seal failures happen on many different platforms. Most of the time the root cause is too much timing during certain high load conditions.
On our platform this is likely caused by sitting on LC too long. In most cases E85 will help prevent the issue.