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  1. #1
    Junior Member Two Rings no_roads's Avatar
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    Exclamation Power steering pump DIY replacement, HELP!!

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    Hey all, new member first post here, I did my best to make sure the information i was looking for wasn't posted already before posting, but didn't find much.
    I've got a 2004 B6 S4, and ever since I got it the power steering didn't work at idle, but did okay if the revs were at 1500rpm or more. Finally the other day all of a sudden while driving, the power steering went completely dead and the pump is SCREAMING. The fluid looks old and black, smells almost burnt like, and is full of metal shaving glitter. Its safe to say the pump is dead. I did find in another post to make sure the lines are okay and they are, absolutely no visible leaks anywhere under the car no matter how long I let it sit and idle, even pumping the wheel back and fourth. I have some questions and need some help.

    I scored a used pump with warranty for 100$ on eBay, just the pump. I know roughly where the pump is located, driver side of the engine towards the back under the header, I believe its shaft driven off the timing chain if I'm not mistaken. I cant find much of any information anywhere on how to go about accessing it and replacing it. What needs to come off, what's the easiest way to get to it and remove it, what will I need? Mind you, ill be doing this in my driveway on jack stands. Like any DIY mechanic, I want the most simple and efficient way to get to it. Removal and reinstallation. I've flushed the system the best I could while the old one is still on, to hopefully clean the rack out, I've heard some say the rack may need replacing but I doubt it will come to that, the rack feels fine no dead spots or anything, I've flushed the system to the point of nearly completely clean fluid. no luck, still screaming and no power steering. Anybody have any helpful links, videos, or advice? Really haven't found ANYTHING about removal of the pump, just location, and line replacement, not the whole pump. Its Tuesday night now and Ill be driving the car to and from work until Friday when it arrives, and Ill be starting on it as soon as the pump is in my hands. Really not thrilled with the lack of information, and with the location I know it will be an intrusive job no matter how I slice it. Pictures would be very helpful, by nature I am a visual learner. This is all so crazy to me considering my car has just over 100k miles. thanks so much in advance! hoping for as much info as possible by Friday. Heres a cool pic of my red S4 with my dads yellow one! Both 2004's, I always loved his so after 10 different cars in 2 years (starting when I was 17), including 6 mitsubishis, I had to get one!

    Screenshot_24.jpg

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings idotavant's Avatar
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    It’s probably the coupler, between the pump shaft and drive shaft from the engine. It strips out, and then strips the pump shaft with it. Hence the screaming. I’d bet you need both


    This is an allroad, but it’s a 4.2, and has the pump in the same place. Don’t mind the janky wiring loom and zip ties. My pics are barely better than nothing, but that’s what we have

    It’s right in the center of the photo with the line and banjo bolt. Located below the left exhaust manifold, toward the rear, bolted through the “back plate” of the engine

    The clamped rubber line is a bitch to get off and on because of the confined movement and space. I think there’s one or two Allen’s on the pump side and a large bolt going through the back side of the plate, fastening it

    Oh yeah, you gotta take the engine mount and engine mount bracket off (I think s4 is same) to access the pump. Probably better support the engine while you do that


    Here’s the EIGHTY DOLLAR COUPLER. You need two of those o rings also. I used factory otiker clamp on the rubber line and a new crush washer for the banjo bolt, as well



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  3. #3
    Junior Member Two Rings no_roads's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by idotavant View Post
    It’s probably the coupler, between the pump shaft and drive shaft from the engine. It strips out, and then strips the pump shaft with it. Hence the screaming. I’d bet you need both


    This is an allroad, but it’s a 4.2, and has the pump in the same place. Don’t mind the janky wiring loom and zip ties. My pics are barely better than nothing, but that’s what we have

    It’s right in the center of the photo with the line and banjo bolt. Located below the left exhaust manifold, toward the rear, bolted through the “back plate” of the engine

    The clamped rubber line is a bitch to get off and on because of the confined movement and space. I think there’s one or two Allen’s on the pump side and a large bolt going through the back side of the plate, fastening it

    Oh yeah, you gotta take the engine mount and engine mount bracket off (I think s4 is same) to access the pump. Probably better support the engine while you do that

    Here’s the EIGHTY DOLLAR COUPLER. You need two of those o rings also. I used factory otiker clamp on the rubber line and a new crush washer for the banjo bolt, as well


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    This has helped a lot, but I'm drawing some confusing blanks on what you mean by "between the pump shaft and drive shaft from the engine". The picture is helpful but as you said, not too much visual information there. Its nice to know I can do it from under the car though. I'm confused on where you mean this coupler is exactly, and how I would change that as well. Is there any auto parts store I can get the couple and O rings from to avoid waiting for shipping? and do you have any more specific information like part numbers or where to get them? Or is it one of those things that once I have the pump off and am down there, it should be pretty easy to see. And by the "plate" do you mean the very back of the engine, kinda like the timing cover? again, if these questions will be answered when I'm down there that's okay, I just want to have a better understanding before I take it apart. I would also be very frustrated if I got it all apart and was missing things I cant go buy from a store. What are the chances my coupler is fine if my pump has always whined? like I said its always been weak and didnt work at idle, and at idle when i would apply pressure to the wheel it would whine but not very loud, and then as a I said all of a sudden BOOM thing is screaming like crazy. Also, would the stripping of this couple be the cause of the metal shaving glitter in my fluid? The way you describe it, it almost sounds like this couple is external from the fluid. because again, no leaking that I can see anywhere. Thanks for your help so far, that picture did give me a lot of info that was impossible to find. But I need MOOAAARRR!

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings idotavant's Avatar
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    I might be able to get you more tomorrow. You can’t buy that at the parts store. When you take the pump off you’ll see the coupler on the shaft


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  5. #5
    Junior Member Two Rings no_roads's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by idotavant View Post
    I might be able to get you more tomorrow. You can’t buy that at the parts store. When you take the pump off you’ll see the coupler on the shaft


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    where can I get it?

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings idotavant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by no_roads View Post
    where can I get it?
    Pretty sure I got mine from ecs. There’s fcp euro, Europa parts, and maybe others


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  7. #7
    Junior Member Two Rings no_roads's Avatar
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    I’m hoping I won’t need one, the pump doesn’t make any noise when there is no fluid in it, when it’s drained it doesn’t make an ounce of noise. And the fluid damage tells me it’s internal. I guess we’ll see, the pump is expected a day early, plan on taking it apart tomorrow. I’m hoping the procedure on your allroad is the same on my S4

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings idotavant's Avatar
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    Found my thread:

    Steering pump failure
    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app


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  9. #9
    Junior Member Two Rings no_roads's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by idotavant View Post
    Found my thread:

    Steering pump failure
    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app


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    This was also really really really helpful, thank you so much! But let me pick your brain. I need to have the car fixed before Saturday really, and I’m pretty worried about not being able to get the repair kit and coupler in less than a week or 2. Definitely don’t want to take it apart and not be able to put it back together. What do you think the chances are that they are okay? My symptoms are as follows: absolutely no steering assist, pump only screams when it’s full of fluid, at the moment I have the fluid drained and it doesn’t make any noise at all, but if I add even some fluid, it will start howling again. It’s definitely a very loud whine, maybe even a binding like noise. Really frustrating that I won’t be able to know for sure until it’s already taken all the way apart and too late, and I really can’t be without the car for much more than a couple days or keep driving it like this. Thanks so much for all your help and advice, much much more confident going into this now.


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  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings idotavant's Avatar
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    If you can’t leave it apart you’ll always have to have a extra parts and materials on hand for contingency


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  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings Zolli's Avatar
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    I think your coupler is bad, and it’s killed the pump. That’s why it’s silent when no fluid is in there (pump parts just spin freely - if they spin much at all - no pressure to try to build up). I can’t believe those couplers cost $80 now. They must be made by Icelandic elves.

  12. #12
    Junior Member Two Rings no_roads's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zolli View Post
    I think your coupler is bad, and it’s killed the pump. That’s why it’s silent when no fluid is in there (pump parts just spin freely - if they spin much at all - no pressure to try to build up). I can’t believe those couplers cost $80 now. They must be made by Icelandic elves.
    Thinking I should just wait until I can get my hands on one to take it apart, what are the chances the shaft in the coupler also needs repaired? I know they sell a repair kit, another 80$…

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings idotavant's Avatar
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    Hopefully it’s designed to strip the pump shaft first. That seems to be the majority of cases. I don’t even know how to get the engine-side shaft out


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  14. #14
    Junior Member Two Rings no_roads's Avatar
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    Power steering pump DIY replacement, HELP!!

    Quote Originally Posted by idotavant View Post
    Hopefully it’s designed to strip the pump shaft first. That seems to be the majority of cases. I don’t even know how to get the engine-side shaft out


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    Alright gents, a stroke of luck!!! The Audi dealership in Muskegon Michigan, about 2 hours away from me will have a driveshaft repair kit as wells as the coupler in stock for me tomorrow, for 75$ each!!! Still nothing short of robbery, but a 4 hour round trip and a decent price compared to everything online is a small price to pay to save 2 weeks on shipping. I’ll have the car part today and if I need them, I’ll rip down there tomorrow to get them. My questions was going to be if it’s on the engine side (which seems unlikely) how would I even replace that? Hopefully this thread ends here, and doesn’t turn into another thread of “engine side shaft destroyed what do?” Haha. My question for you too is was your pump shaft and the coupler destroyed? Or just the coupler? Thanks so much again!


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  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings idotavant's Avatar
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    Power steering pump’s shaft and coupler both stripped. Coupler looked the worse of the two


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  16. #16
    Junior Member Two Rings no_roads's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by idotavant View Post
    Power steering pump’s shaft and coupler both stripped. Coupler looked the worse of the two


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    IMG_1779.jpg
    This is what I’m dealing with right now, how does the rest of the motor mount come out? It feels like there is a nut on top, impossible to get any tool on, and DEFINITELY not happening from through the engine bay. Looks like I’m going to have less clearance that your picture described!


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  17. #17
    Junior Member Two Rings no_roads's Avatar
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    Found another thread on how to get it out approx. 32 seconds after my last reply lol. Going smoothly so far.


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  18. #18
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    IMG_1783.jpg
    Oh the joy, pump mounting bolt stripped RIGHT the heck out on my first try. Loving the job so far


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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings Zolli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by no_roads View Post
    IMG_1783.jpg
    Oh the joy, pump mounting bolt stripped RIGHT the heck out on my first try. Loving the job so far


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    Aw man that SUCKS. There’s no room back in there. Vice grips?

    I can’t recall if I replaced mine with a hex-head or not. I usually replace the torx/allens with hex-heads, but not always.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zolli View Post
    Aw man that SUCKS. There’s no room back in there. Vice grips?

    I can’t recall if I replaced mine with a hex-head or not. I usually replace the torx/allens with hex-heads, but not always.
    Defeated for the night, the plan is to either weld the tool to the nut or weld a nut onto the bolt in the morning. Then begin the journey to find one before everything is closed Saturday :). So far the procedure is different from the write ups on the allroad, the mounting bolts aren’t even the same, and there is only 2. I’ve been taking videos and documenting the process, so if anyone ever needs to do the pump on their S4 there will be a video for them :). I think it’s safe to say EVERYONE would rather watch an instructional video than read through countless posts and write ups, I’ll keep updating the thread and post the video when the job is done!


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  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings Zolli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by no_roads View Post
    Defeated for the night, the plan is to either weld the tool to the nut or weld a nut onto the bolt in the morning. Then begin the journey to find one before everything is closed Saturday :). So far the procedure is different from the write ups on the allroad, the mounting bolts aren’t even the same, and there is only 2. I’ve been taking videos and documenting the process, so if anyone ever needs to do the pump on their S4 there will be a video for them :). I think it’s safe to say EVERYONE would rather watch an instructional video than read through countless posts and write ups, I’ll keep updating the thread and post the video when the job is done!


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    Weld the nut not the tool; there won’t be a lot of room to pull it out for a replacement (though I suppose you could cut it in half).

    I’m not as familiar with the Allroad’s 4.2. Your S4 is a B6, right? My B7 S4 has two small bolts and one large one that pass through to the pump mount. Clean up everything before reinstalling. Definitely get a new pump and coupler - the coupler won’t strip unless there was resistance from the pump’s intervals. Flush the hoses if you can. Good luck

  22. #22
    Junior Member Two Rings no_roads's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zolli View Post
    Weld the nut not the tool; there won’t be a lot of room to pull it out for a replacement (though I suppose you could cut it in half).

    I’m not as familiar with the Allroad’s 4.2. Your S4 is a B6, right? My B7 S4 has two small bolts and one large one that pass through to the pump mount. Clean up everything before reinstalling. Definitely get a new pump and coupler - the coupler won’t strip unless there was resistance from the pump’s intervals. Flush the hoses if you can. Good luck
    Seems like from pulling the bolt above it there is plenty of room to get it out, that is if they are both identical. I heard of the larger mount bolt, but I can’t seem to find it anywhere? It’s 7:30am, there is lots of work to be done!


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    Quote Originally Posted by Zolli View Post
    Weld the nut not the tool; there won’t be a lot of room to pull it out for a replacement (though I suppose you could cut it in half).

    I’m not as familiar with the Allroad’s 4.2. Your S4 is a B6, right? My B7 S4 has two small bolts and one large one that pass through to the pump mount. Clean up everything before reinstalling. Definitely get a new pump and coupler - the coupler won’t strip unless there was resistance from the pump’s intervals. Flush the hoses if you can. Good luck
    IMG_1785.jpg
    Pretty primitive, but effective!


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    IMG_1786.jpg
    IMG_1787.jpg
    Bitter sweet! The coupler looks toasted pretty good! Anyone know the exact capacity of the power steering system? The rubber line I split right at the end ever so slightly hopefully I can repair it. With how difficult everything was to remove, and how everything basically needed JIGGLED out, I’m not looking forward AT ALL to putting ANY of it back together…


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    Veteran Member Four Rings idotavant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by no_roads View Post
    IMG_1786.jpg
    IMG_1787.jpg
    Bitter sweet! The coupler looks toasted pretty good! Anyone know the exact capacity of the power steering system? The rubber line I split right at the end ever so slightly hopefully I can repair it. With how difficult everything was to remove, and how everything basically needed JIGGLED out, I’m not looking forward AT ALL to putting ANY of it back together…


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    The pump I got had the fitting for the rubber line at a slightly different angle. Real pain in the ass to get back on. Hard enough just to get off

    If the split is just on the end you should be ok. As long as it doesn’t go past the rib on the fitting

    I realized later that I could undo both bolts securing the hard part of the line. Made it a little easier to negotiate

    Engine side splines look good!


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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by idotavant View Post
    The pump I got had the fitting for the rubber line at a slightly different angle. Real pain in the ass to get back on. Hard enough just to get off

    If the split is just on the end you should be ok. As long as it doesn’t go past the rib on the fitting

    I realized later that I could undo both bolts securing the hard part of the line. Made it a little easier to negotiate

    Engine side splines look good!


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    How much fluid did you need to fill the system?


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  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings idotavant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by no_roads View Post
    How much fluid did you need to fill the system?


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    Not very much. I think 2quarts (pentosin chf 11) was more than enough. Clean your reservoir and filter while you are at it (brake clean). I mounted the pump and filled it until fluid came out of the banjo bolt, and then tightened the lines. With the car lifted you can turn the steering wheel lock to lock with engine off. This should help get the bubbles out. Process is then repeated with engine running. Keep in mind, audi recommends OVERfilling the reservoir by a good bit


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    06 Dakota 4x4 long travel v8 6spd
    03 Tuono 1000
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    02 a4 avant 3.0 tip (defunct; part-out or sale)

  28. #28
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    Idotavant’s advice is solid. I think I needed something like 1.25 liters (I used Liqui-Moly, just meet the VW spec), but I know I also still had fluid in the rack. Definitely clean the pump mount, hoses, and reservoir. The filter in the reservoir doesn’t come out, or at least I couldn’t figure out how to remove it, so use a plastic-safe cleaner.

    For the hose that connects to the port below the banjo bolt on the pump, I added another hose clamp for assurances, and I also wrapped the hose in DEI heat sleeve material like they use for wires.

    I also noticed a surprising about of dirt and grime had gotten in the assembly where the pump and coupler meet and where it attaches to the engine. I don’t know if that crud was the cause or contributed to the problem, but I cleaned it all up and used aluminum HVAC tape (the kind with the adhesive rated for flues / high temperatures) to close off or shield the openings.

  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings idotavant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zolli View Post
    Idotavant’s advice is solid. I think I needed something like 1.25 liters (I used Liqui-Moly, just meet the VW spec), but I know I also still had fluid in the rack. Definitely clean the pump mount, hoses, and reservoir. The filter in the reservoir doesn’t come out, or at least I couldn’t figure out how to remove it, so use a plastic-safe cleaner.

    For the hose that connects to the port below the banjo bolt on the pump, I added another hose clamp for assurances, and I also wrapped the hose in DEI heat sleeve material like they use for wires.

    I also noticed a surprising about of dirt and grime had gotten in the assembly where the pump and coupler meet and where it attaches to the engine. I don’t know if that crud was the cause or contributed to the problem, but I cleaned it all up and used aluminum HVAC tape (the kind with the adhesive rated for flues / high temperatures) to close off or shield the openings.
    Good notes. There was at least one o ring in the coupler (input shaft seal?) and it was torn. I put a new one. I think it has them on both sides to keep moisture and grit out of the splines


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    02 a4 avant 3.0 tip (defunct; part-out or sale)

  30. #30
    Veteran Member Four Rings Zolli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by idotavant View Post
    Good notes. There was at least one o ring in the coupler (input shaft seal?) and it was torn. I put a new one. I think it has them on both sides to keep moisture and grit out of the splines


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    There’s two o-rings. I always buy the o-rings in pairs #becauseaudi and I learned that lesson the hard way a long time ago. I remember using both of them.

    I do think the o-rings saved the day for me, because I didn’t have pump failure, but rather a leak, and I suspect failure was not far off had I not cleaned and changed out things.

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    IMG_1789.jpg
    Anybody recall which side goes to the pump and which side to the engine? Lol


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  32. #32
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    The side that goes to the pump *should* match the stripped side of the old coupler; like mine. No?



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  33. #33
    Junior Member Two Rings no_roads's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by idotavant View Post
    The side that goes to the pump *should* match the stripped side of the old coupler; like mine. No?



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    Idk why I didn’t think of that haha. When you bled the system did you run the engine while it was still taken apart? I don’t want to put it all back together until I know it’s all working properly. You think starting it is okay with the engine mount gone and the engine supported under a jack? The electronic sensor is also missing lol


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  34. #34
    Junior Member Two Rings no_roads's Avatar
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    Power steering pump DIY replacement, HELP!!

    IMG_1791.jpg
    IMG_1792.jpg
    Pump in, system bled with the wheels off the ground, no more whining no more screaming! I think she MIGHT have power steering again! I’m so HORRIFIED of putting it all back together and it not steering right… pray for me guys. Lots of messes in my garage, multiple break downs, lots of yelling and cussing. This 19 year old kid is BEAT! I can’t believe this car is designed THIS BAD! lol. Will update once I drive it and it’s all back together.
    Edit: after coming from DSM Mitsubishi cars and Mitsubishi in general, this thing is BY FAR a pain in the butt to work on. I’m really so in love with driving this car, just hate owning it, don’t plan on giving up on it anytime soon ha.


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  35. #35
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Time for a beer! Been following your thread all day. Thanks for getting me through my friday. Good advice all around in this thread for power stearing.

  36. #36
    Veteran Member Four Rings Zolli's Avatar
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    Well done! Congrats on slaying the German beast (you’ll have to do it again).

    They are definitely fun cars. It’s all because some VAG-equivalent to Werner Herzog said, “the A4 is a very practical, beautiful car, good for the masses...but where is the MISTIQUE? The romance? It must have a V8!” Then the engineers squeezed one in there, and they all celebrated...until someone asked about the power steering. And air conditioning. And coolant. And more coolant because it’s freakishly hot in there. And the battery. And brake booster. And sway bar. And on and on....

  37. #37
    Veteran Member Four Rings idotavant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by no_roads View Post
    IMG_1791.jpg
    IMG_1792.jpg
    Pump in, system bled with the wheels off the ground, no more whining no more screaming! I think she MIGHT have power steering again! I’m so HORRIFIED of putting it all back together and it not steering right… pray for me guys. Lots of messes in my garage, multiple break downs, lots of yelling and cussing. This 19 year old kid is BEAT! I can’t believe this car is designed THIS BAD! lol. Will update once I drive it and it’s all back together.
    Edit: after coming from DSM Mitsubishi cars and Mitsubishi in general, this thing is BY FAR a pain in the butt to work on. I’m really so in love with driving this car, just hate owning it, don’t plan on giving up on it anytime soon ha.


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    It’s my opinion that these are designed with rigorous maintenance, preventative replacement procedures, and a large budget in mind for those who sacrifice for high compression, low tolerances, “new tech”, and heavily engineered packaging, with a somewhat exclusive minimalist design and low level of compromise (understeer much?)

    I rationalize

    I did not test mine without the engine mount. I left it up on the stands with the wheel and fender liner off but the mount and bracket were snugged up


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  38. #38
    Junior Member Two Rings no_roads's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ottocycle View Post
    Time for a beer! Been following your thread all day. Thanks for getting me through my friday. Good advice all around in this thread for power stearing.
    Glad I could help!!! Haha, thanks to you, Zollie, and idotavant for the help and advice guys, I’m not exaggerating when I say it would not have happened without the advice. It’s easy to say “yeah it’s just a power steering pump”…. Until it’s in your driveway on jackstands, on a B6 S4 haha. I’ll be back for more eventually, looking to put a nice clutch in the car sooner rather than later. I’ll have a final update tonight with my compiled videos and some thoughts and what not. She’s steering and handling beautifully, time to go rip a twisty road up the coast of Lake Michigan in celebration! Still a little whining when turning at a stop, really quiet not much, was hoping for it to be completely silent honestly. Maybe needs a bit more bleeding. No good threads under the B6S4 model line about power steering, hopefully it helps some other people like it did me. IMG_1654.jpg


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  39. #39
    Veteran Member Four Rings idotavant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ottocycle View Post
    Time for a beer! Been following your thread all day. Thanks for getting me through my friday. Good advice all around in this thread for power stearing.
    Beer here too. Happy Friday


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    05 Allroad 4.2 ao3 swap; jhm v3 kit
    06 Dakota 4x4 long travel v8 6spd
    03 Tuono 1000
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  40. #40
    Veteran Member Four Rings idotavant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by no_roads View Post
    Glad I could help!!! Haha, thanks to you, Zollie, and idotavant for the help and advice guys, I’m not exaggerating when I say it would not have happened without the advice. It’s easy to say “yeah it’s just a power steering pump”…. Until it’s in your driveway on jackstands, on a B6 S4 haha. I’ll be back for more eventually, looking to put a nice clutch in the car sooner rather than later. I’ll have a final update tonight with my compiled videos and some thoughts and what not. She’s steering and handling beautifully, time to go rip a twisty road up the coast of Lake Michigan in celebration! Still a little whining when turning at a stop, really quiet not much, was hoping for it to be completely silent honestly. Maybe needs a bit more bleeding. No good threads under the B6S4 model line about power steering, hopefully it helps some other people like it did me. IMG_1654.jpg


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    Car will whine a bit sometimes and spit some final bubbles out. Keep an eye on the level


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    05 Allroad 4.2 ao3 swap; jhm v3 kit
    06 Dakota 4x4 long travel v8 6spd
    03 Tuono 1000
    04 MB c240 4motion wagon (gf’s)
    02 a4 avant 3.0 tip (defunct; part-out or sale)

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