Refinished Carbon Fiber Engine Covers

[caliizaktiv]

A lot of sanding, two part epoxy resin and clear coat.

P1


P2


P3


P4


P5


P6





This is not a DIY but will give some general guidance

Materials:
• Wet/Dry Sandpaper kit with 120/150 to 2500 grit
• Composite Envisions Two Part Resin Epoxy – Epoxy Resin (1159A) and Hardener (1160B), measuring cups, high quality bristle brush applicators (low quality brushes will shed) or some rubber tipped epoxy resin applicator wands from AMZN).
The step by step, detailed instructions for mixing and applying the resin is included in the Composite Envisions kit.
• Kitchen scale for measuring resin mix
• Razor Blade
• Vinyl decals for RS Logo (Red) and V8 – 4.2 FSI (I can print these)
• High Quality Clear Coat with UV and High Temp Protection (you get what you pay for here. If you cheap out you’ll suffer.) – I used Eastwood 2K AERO-SPRAY High Glass Clear.
• Compound / Polish applied with a DA tool. Compounding and polishing by hand is slow and not as effective.
• Optional: Ceramic Coating

Process:
1. Remove failed resin coat from covers. PIC 2 The Audi factory applied resin is what fails on these and ultimately renders them trash. Slip a razor blade under a peeling edge and you can gradually see that the resin will come off in sheets. Same thing with the rings and RS logo. The rings have 4 little locator protrusions underneath that fit into the cover itself. These will most likely break but you can usually salvage 2 of the 4 locators. The RS logo is secured with double sided tape. Take measurements or make a template of where these are centered on the main cover so you can apply them in the same general location towards the end of the job.

2. Sand: You’ll need to sand the hell out of the remaining old, crusty, yellowed resin that’s left behind. Start dry sanding with 120 or 150 until it the yellow is gone. You’ll be able to remove 99% of it and the remaining yellowing trapped will hardly be noticeable in the end. You’re going for the results shown in PIC 4

3. Wet sand: Next is just a combo of wet/dry sanding up the grit chain from 220, 280, 360, 400 and 800 until it feels smooth to the touch.
4. Decal: V8 – 4.2 FSI Apply to the smaller cover.
5. Resin: Apply epoxy resin coats according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
6. Sand: Flatten the cured resin by wet sanding up the chain again but only start with grit in the 400 to 600 range and work it up to 1200.
7. Prep: the surface for clear coat by rinsing with water and using a wax/grease remover.
8. Paint: Clear coat according to manufacturer’s instructions.
9. Sand: Final wet sand the clear coat from 1000 up to 2500.
10. Compound
11. Polish
12. Optional: Ceramic Coating
13. Rings and RS emblems can be secured in place with the epoxy resin. Apply sparingly (little dab will do ya) to the underside. Too much and the epoxy may squeeze out from underneath and onto the clear coat. I would avoid using super glues/gorilla glue or similar as I don’t think those will hold up to the heat cycles experienced under the hood.

[othatseric]

thinking of doing mine, can you do a quick write up on your process?

[AA 954]

Great work, x2 for the write up and where did you source the letters?


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[ginch]

Wow that looks so much better! Also would love to see a more detailed write up!

[caliizaktiv]

Great work, x2 for the write up and where did you source the letters?


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I cut my own vinyl decals including the red part of the RS emblem. The letters are put on first and then the resin is applied over top so that they cannot be felt or removed once encased in the epoxy. I'll get a supplies list and write up going but a project like this is more of an art than a science.

[Est1976]

thinking of doing mine, can you do a quick write up on your process?

+1

[caliizaktiv]

Edited the OP to include a write-up.

[AA 954]

Edited the OP to include a write-up.

Thank you for this detailed and extensive writeup, this is great !

Very interested also in sourcing these decals if you have access to these, not sure what would be a reasonable cost but let us know, the idea is not to bombard you know with decal requests lol, thank you for helping the community, yellowed carbon fibers is definately a repeat theme among all of us owners


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[Kenny147]

Outstanding work, well done for taking the time to write this up.

I finally broke down and bought a new set from Audi before they end up being NLA, to keep as a spare set.

This is a much better option than sending them to James Pyro, who’ll simply steal your $$, covers and then ghost you.

[AA 954]

Outstanding work, well done for taking the time to write this up.

I finally broke down and bought a new set from Audi before they end up being NLA, to keep as a spare set.

This is a much better option than sending them to James Pyro, who’ll simply steal your $$, covers and then ghost you.

Lol let me also add the name of that thief Jason from Kuhl, never send anything to him either


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[caliizaktiv]

Anyone can shoot me a PM for decal info. It's no problem to line up a sheet and hit print and mail.

[billk1967]

You should seriously consider offering your services out to do this for the group. Im sure there would be interest, including myself:).

[barbear1978]

Outstanding work my friend!

[swesna]

That does look great.

[e-rich]

This looks really great! What size bolt is used on the bracket that holds the larger cover? When I bought my RS4 it was missing the cover, but the previous owner saved the bracket (minus the bolts). I have a new cover and the bracket, but don't know what size bolts to use.

[Kenny147]

This looks really great! What size bolt is used on the bracket that holds the larger cover? When I bought my RS4 it was missing the cover, but the previous owner saved the bracket (minus the bolts). I have a new cover and the bracket, but don't know what size bolts to use.

Part number N90008401. They’re listed as M6x14 hex collared bolts and there are 5 of them.

[redline380]

Figured I would update this thread since I am using it for inspiration.

I used the razor blade method as shown to get all the old flakes off, works well. But I am taking a chemical approach instead of a mechanical one to remove the residue. I initially used rubbing alcohol and that didn't do much so I switched to acetone. This worked much better but after it dried, it left a white residue. So I then used brake clean to clear the residue and that worked well. The top one, especially on the left side, was done quite a bit last night. The lower cover just had the top coat flaked off, so acetone yet so you can see the difference. I plan to use this method on the whole thing, get it done as nice as I can, that rinse it in the dishwasher to get all the chemicals off and prep for new clear.