CV Joint Clicking

[eden]

I have an A4 TDI 2.0 177 Quattro. The car has had a clicking for the past 3 months or so, quiet at first then started to get louder. When I finally got around to getting under the car, I discovered split outer nearside CV boot.
Bought a replacement boot kit and after e hours of hammering got the joint apart.
No obvious signs of wear and no play in the joint, so replaced the boot and all back together, but on first test drive the noise is still there, though not as bad as before.

It's mostly noticeable when accelerating and going straight. The noise doesn't sound any different when turning and there are not vibrations or obvious signs of play in the steering.

I have a couple of thoughts and was after some advice-

1- the CV joint is simply worn and needs replacing

2- one thing I noticed is that with the driveshaft being hollow, I lost a bit of grease that had come from the inner CV through the shaft. On the bench you can pump the inner and hear a gurgling sound.
Is there a chance that the inner is low on grease, in which case I was thinking I could take the hub bolt out and pump some grease down the driveshaft into the inner CV.

[Raj1471]

Had the same issue on my '14 allroad. Researched on replacing boot and regreasing as opposed to replacing the entire axle. Decided to replace entire axle. I bought a remanufactured Audi OEM axle from Raxles.com. because of the excellent reviews from people on Audizine and did install myself. I see that you're in London, I would see if there are shops that sell remanufactured OEM Audi axles in your neck of the woods. From the research I've done the consensus is to stay away from the cheap Chinese axles like that found on Ebay and the like because of vibration issues.

[Theiceman]

Personally I would rebuild it myself, but I totally get guys who just get axles, no mess no fuss.
Hard to believe it was clicking yet no visible signs of wear, maybe it was the inner clicking, and you just made an assumption as soon as you saw the split boot ??


Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app

[eden]

Thank you both for the replies, I think my best option in the UK would be a used part since rebuilt parts don't seem to be an option.

That's interesting about the wear, I did wonder wear had to be visible for it to cause an issue.
As per my original post, is it possible that grease from the inner CV would have leaked out through the hollow driveshaft to the outer CV? In which case I was thinking I would take out the hub bolt and pump grease back down the driveshaft?

[Theiceman]

Thank you both for the replies, I think my best option in the UK would be a used part since rebuilt parts don't seem to be an option.

That's interesting about the wear, I did wonder wear had to be visible for it to cause an issue.
As per my original post, is it possible that grease from the inner CV would have leaked out through the hollow driveshaft to the outer CV? In which case I was thinking I would take out the hub bolt and pump grease back down the driveshaft?

im not sure .. as i cant visualize it. As a rule CV grease doesnt like to go anywhere.. well except all over your clothes i guess. When you pack it in it stays pretty good, its VERY heavy.

[eden]

I think the sound is most likely to be the outer anyway, most of the symptoms of a worn inner don't seem to be happening to my car. I think I might try squeezing in some more grease by taking out the hub bolt and see if it makes a difference, otherwise for around $50 I can get a used shaft and I'll just swap it out.

[Theiceman]

I think the sound is most likely to be the outer anyway, most of the symptoms of a worn inner don't seem to be happening to my car. I think I might try squeezing in some more grease by taking out the hub bolt and see if it makes a difference, otherwise for around $50 I can get a used shaft and I'll just swap it out.

yeah for 50 bucks its a no brainer really.

[Zuzuwu]

Both of my front axles started clicking in a straight line even though the boots were fine. It’s just how it goes with these cars, either get the outer joint rebuild kits or replace the axles.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[eden]

In my case I'd say it's the fact the boot split and that I continued to drive around before realising what the issue was. 85k miles seems pretty low for this issue but I guess that's how it goes sometimes. Both my previous Audi's had done 126k and 150k.

[misternoggin]

It's not unheard of. Both of my front ones had to be replaced even earlier. I think the first was around 60k miles and the second was at 65k miles.

[Theiceman]

engines, wheel bearings CVs. I don't think there is any question these cars were built to a much lower price point than previous generations.

My company thinks the same, just keep building it cheaper and cheaper, if the sales numbers remain , its justified. It only has to last the warranty, any money spent to make it last longer is not good value

[captain_video]

CV joints wear. It's just a fact of life. Just look at the mechanics of the joint. It's a wonder they last as long as they do. The boots dry and crack over time and once they split the clock starts ticking for end of life for the joint unless you catch it early enough. If the grease leaks out and the joint runs dry, it is doomed to fail, plain and simple.

You basically have three options:

1. Replace the boot
2. Replace the entire axle
3. Replace the outer joint

Replacing just the boot is fine as long as there is no noticeable wear on the inner races of the joint. You have to remove the joint to replace the boot.

Replacing the entire axle is the easiest, but also the most expensive, depending on where you get the axle from. An OEM axle costs a small fortune. Buying a used axle from a junkyard is only prolonging the inevitable, but it's also the cheapest and easiest solution. Buying a rebuilt axle from raxles.com is a good choice. Just make sure you have the original axle to return as the core. Never buy any axle made in China. I literally had one fall apart in my hands while installing it on a '99 Passat. It went right in the dumpster after that.

Replacing the outer CV joint with a new one is probably the best long term solution. It's no more work than just replacing the boot, but definitely more expensive and probably about what you'll pay for the rebuilt axle from Raxles. However, you basically end up with a new OEM axle when you're done. The inner joints don't receive the same kind of stress as the outer joints and should last indefinitely. It's still not a bad idea to check the boots while you're at it.

I have gone through each of the above methods on VWs and Audis and replacing the outer joint is my most highly recommended solution. If you have to replace the boot then chances are the joint is near the end of useful life anyway. You need to remove the outer joint and clean and inspect it to check for wear anyway so it's actually less work if you simply replace the joint. It's the longest lasting solution by far.

[BradyBoi55]

I have an A4 TDI 2.0 177 Quattro. The car has had a clicking for the past 3 months or so, quiet at first then started to get louder. When I finally got around to getting under the car, I discovered split outer nearside CV boot.
Bought a replacement boot kit and after e hours of hammering got the joint apart.
No obvious signs of wear and no play in the joint, so replaced the boot and all back together, but on first test drive the noise is still there, though not as bad as before.

It's mostly noticeable when accelerating and going straight. The noise doesn't sound any different when turning and there are not vibrations or obvious signs of play in the steering.

I have a couple of thoughts and was after some advice-

1- the CV joint is simply worn and needs replacing

2- one thing I noticed is that with the driveshaft being hollow, I lost a bit of grease that had come from the inner CV through the shaft. On the bench you can pump the inner and hear a gurgling sound.
Is there a chance that the inner is low on grease, in which case I was thinking I could take the hub bolt out and pump some grease down the driveshaft into the inner CV.

Some people might hate me for saying this but try rock auto. I had the same problem with my rear right axle and bought one for around $86 when Audi said the part was $1300 and fcp said it was $850ish. I’ve had the part installed for 5ish months and it’s still working correctly. No complaints

[captain_video]

Some people might hate me for saying this but try rock auto. I had the same problem with my rear right axle and bought one for around $86 when Audi said the part was $1300 and fcp said it was $850ish. I’ve had the part installed for 5ish months and it’s still working correctly. No complaints

I'm pretty sure that's a Chinese axle at that price. I've gone through several sets of them and the first ones I bought worked fine for a couple of years, but every other ones I purchased were absolute crap. You roll the dice with axles that cheap. OEM axles are outrageously overpriced which is why it's cheaper to just replace the outer joint.

[eden]

Well I ended up buying a used one for about $50, and fitted in t earlier today, took about an hour from start to finish. No more clicking so seems like problem solved.

There doesn't seem to be a lot of choice for reconditioned parts here in the UK (I think there used to be more of a market for items such as clutches but people seem to be more throwaway these days).

Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions.

[sixty220]

Does anyone know how much is the ones from raxle.com with and without the core charge? I need BOTH front cv axles replaced ._.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[captain_video]

Does anyone know how much is the ones from raxle.com with and without the core charge? I need BOTH front cv axles replaced ._.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

You could just contact them for a quote.

[findalex]

CV joints wear. It's just a fact of life. Just look at the mechanics of the joint. It's a wonder they last as long as they do. The boots dry and crack over time and once they split the clock starts ticking for end of life for the joint unless you catch it early enough. If the grease leaks out and the joint runs dry, it is doomed to fail, plain and simple.

You basically have three options:

1. Replace the boot
2. Replace the entire axle
3. Replace the outer joint

Replacing just the boot is fine as long as there is no noticeable wear on the inner races of the joint. You have to remove the joint to replace the boot.

Replacing the entire axle is the easiest, but also the most expensive, depending on where you get the axle from. An OEM axle costs a small fortune. Buying a used axle from a junkyard is only prolonging the inevitable, but it's also the cheapest and easiest solution. Buying a rebuilt axle from raxles.com is a good choice. Just make sure you have the original axle to return as the core. Never buy any axle made in China. I literally had one fall apart in my hands while installing it on a '99 Passat. It went right in the dumpster after that.

Replacing the outer CV joint with a new one is probably the best long term solution. It's no more work than just replacing the boot, but definitely more expensive and probably about what you'll pay for the rebuilt axle from Raxles. However, you basically end up with a new OEM axle when you're done. The inner joints don't receive the same kind of stress as the outer joints and should last indefinitely. It's still not a bad idea to check the boots while you're at it.

I have gone through each of the above methods on VWs and Audis and replacing the outer joint is my most highly recommended solution. If you have to replace the boot then chances are the joint is near the end of useful life anyway. You need to remove the outer joint and clean and inspect it to check for wear anyway so it's actually less work if you simply replace the joint. It's the longest lasting solution by far.

I didn't know they sell the parts for just the outer joint. Can you please provide the part number and perhaps any links to any instructions? Any special tools required? I find that I'm always buying a new tool whenever I work on my Audi's.

[captain_video]

I didn't know they sell the parts for just the outer joint. Can you please provide the part number and perhaps any links to any instructions? Any special tools required? I find that I'm always buying a new tool whenever I work on my Audi's.

Look up the model and model year of your Audi here:

https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/

A new joint should come with a new boot kit including clamps, C-clip, and a tube of joint grease.

You'll need a brass drift and a heavy hammer to dislodge the old joint from the shaft. A short-handled 3-lb sledge works great for this. Make sure you have cut off the old boot and clamps to access the rear of the joint. Secure the axle in a vise so that it's parallel to the ground. Position the brass drift close to the shaft and pressed against the ball cage on the joint. Try and keep the brass drift as parallel to the shaft as possible and give it a couple of good whacks with the sledge. The joint should pop right off. I would recommend placing a cardboard box filled with packing materials or old towels in a position to catch the joint when it pops off the shaft.

You will need to disassemble and clean the joint so you can inspect it, but if you're going to replace it anyway then you can skip this step. Make sure you wear old clothes because the joint grease is really nasty and will stain anything it comes in contact with. Remove the old C-clip from the shaft with a pair of pliers. Slip the new boot and both clamps onto the shaft and pull it down far enough so that it doesn't interfere with putting on the new joint. Pack the new joint with grease as instructed and then install the new C-clip on the shaft in the groove. Secure the shaft in an upright position in the vise and slide the new joint onto the shaft. Hold the splined portion of the new joint so it's in line with the shaft and give it a tap with the sledge to seat it over the new C-clip, taking care not to damage the splined portion of the shaft. The inside of the joint is tapered so it will compress the clip as it slides on. Fill the boot with the remaining grease and slide the open ond of the boot onto the new joint. Secure the clamps to the shaft and the joint using a clamp tool and you're done. Reinstall the axle and torque the hardware to the proper specs.

[linden]

I have done (6) axle replacements on the Allroad's we have (2013 and 2014). These things are junk. We also have a 2015 model that has only 45k on it and you can hear the clicking already. Get ready to do these over and over. The shop I go to has sourced new axles that are not from Audi which have worked for the last (2) axles. Dont' see how Audi thinks 50k our of an axle is an OK amount of miles.

[captain_video]

I have done (6) axle replacements on the Allroad's we have (2013 and 2014). These things are junk. We also have a 2015 model that has only 45k on it and you can hear the clicking already. Get ready to do these over and over. The shop I go to has sourced new axles that are not from Audi which have worked for the last (2) axles. Dont' see how Audi thinks 50k our of an axle is an OK amount of miles.

Like someone said in an earlier post, it doesn't pay for any manufacturer to have parts last beyond the warranty so 50k is about right when you think about it. CV joints probably get more wear and tear than any other part on a car so it's not unrealistic to believe they will only last for about 50k miles. As long as the boots are intact they should last much longer than 50k. Once the boots split and they start losing grease the life expectancy drops considerably. It pays to check the boots on a regular basis. If you catch it early enough you should be able to get away with just a boot replacement. Otherwise you're looking at replacing the outer joint or the entire axle, depending on your mechanical skills and budget.

[Theiceman]

could it be something with the driving dynamics of the allroad ?

my Sedan has 130K miles... original CVs. no clicking at all . My sons b7 200K miles. original CVs no clicking.

okay... now that i have said that .... :)

[findalex]

could it be something with the driving dynamics of the allroad ?

my Sedan has 130K miles... original CVs. no clicking at all . My sons b7 200K miles. original CVs no clicking.

okay... now that i have said that .... :)

The more you turn your steering wheel to the extreme right/left and the more power you put down while at that position, the more strain it will be on the CV joint. So if you drive nicely and smoothly, they should last a long time. I'm at 109K miles and the drivetrain is still smooth as butter.