audi s4 b5 2001 cranks but won't start ?

[maxpower2014]

hi guys
my audi s4 won't start after engine service
i dropped the engine 5 months ago to replace the transmission its tip zf 5hp19 also to rebuild both turbos i been out of budget and now after 5 months i got some money so i got all parts
i rebuild the both turbos
replaced the transmission
replaced the timing belt i marked the cams pulley at tdc spot because i didn't have the cam tool so i did it with out it and then i rotated the engine many times to make sure all thing lined up correctly
dropped back the engine to the car connected all wires
so now been 3 days trying to start it but its won't start
i checked for codes there is no codes
fuel is ok
i puled spark plug to check if there is spark and yes there spark comes out of sparkplug
so any idea guys i am stock here

[AvantGuard]

Verify that your injectors are firing and supplying fuel- pull one of them leaving wires connected and crank engine over. If you confirm fuel is being supplied, it almost has to be your timing is off.

[Silverex]

Checking for spark and fuel is where I’d start first.

Do you have a vagcom? Any codes?

A lot of times the no start is from the CPS which is on the driver side of trans.

Just cause the motor spun over freely doesn’t necessarily mean timing is correct. Usually it will still start with it being off but I’d double check that before you get car all back together. Easiest way is to check measuring blocks (I think 92/93) to check cam timing. If it’s not +\-5 install crank pin, pull valve cover, and double check the marks on cams/cam caps.

[Calif_Kid]

If your car still has ICMs (on the airbox), then make sure that they were hooked up correctly, as I've heard that if the two connections are reversed, you would still have spark, but it wouldn't be going to the correct cylinders, so take a look...

- Jim

[maxpower2014]

i checked the injectors thy are firing fuel
actually i forget to mention if i cranked it more then 5 mints the engine get flooded and cranking gets slow
also i removed one off the coils to check if there any spark and yes there spark
yes my car has the both ICMs on the air box there is black one and brown one so you can't revers the connectors because the black goes for black ICM and the brown goes for the brown ICM
no codes i checked with vagcom

[GrumpyBear]

ICE basics - an engine needs spark, fuel, and compression, timed correctly. Have you checked compression? If it's good, then it's probably timing. Are you sure you lined up camshafts properly? In normal timing belt change procedure, the cam pulleys will rotate freely as the belt is installed, so I don't know how marking them will help. As others have mentioned, if you have vagcom you can check cam timing.

[ReggieNoble]

Check your cps. See if the spacer is there

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[cu52]

I 3rd the Crank position sensor and the spacer. Do RPM's jump when you attempt to start? Also go back over all connections grounds etc.

[maxpower2014]

i just puled the cps as you mention to check if the spacer is there the spacer that shiny silver thing on the cps yes its still there
no the rpm do not move or jump while engine cranking

[LJS]

....no the rpm do not move or jump while engine cranking

You uncovered your issue---faulty CPS--
You can also check using VCDS, Block-1, that there's no RPM signal when cranking.
PS-ALSO- be sure to check your wiring

[Dr Awesome]

You uncovered your issue---faulty CPS--
You can also check using VCDS, Block-1, that there's no RPM signal when cranking.
PS-ALSO- be sure to check your wiring

Yes check your wires! Be sure your grounds are tight (chassis location near the coolant reservoir)

[maxpower2014]

hi guys
i plugged in vag com checked for codes no codes
checked Measuring Block Groups engine cranking
block-1 = 160rpm
engine load = 73%
engine temp = 33c
block-90 cam adjusting bank 1 =-8
block-90 cam adjusting bank 2 =-10

[Silverex]

Cam timing is off.

[maxpower2014]

update i think the timing is off not lined up correctly
crankshaft at TDC the driver side cam pulley off one tooth
removed the passenger side head cylinder cover to make sure the timing marks are aligned the exhaust camshaft lined up correctly but the intake cam shaft is not lined up with the arrow on the camshaft cap its off one teeth to the right
I could not remove the driver side head cover there is one 10mm bolt its wont came loose and the 10mm socket slipping
here you can see the uploaded pics

[maxpower2014]

[maxpower2014]

[maxpower2014]

[maxpower2014]

[maxpower2014]

[maxpower2014]

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[Silverex]

100% you can Not go by mark on crank pulley. There is a big variation on how they can be set and why the crank pin is necessary. You really should use the lock bar also, both can be had for cheap on Amazon.

When lining the cam cap marks up it’s easier to make sure you have 14 full links between the marks.
I’d buy the tools and start over on the timing.

[maxpower2014]

100% you can Not go by mark on crank pulley. There is a big variation on how they can be set and why the crank pin is necessary. You really should use the lock bar also, both can be had for cheap on Amazon.

When lining the cam cap marks up it’s easier to make sure you have 14 full links between the marks.
I’d buy the tools and start over on the timing.

i thought its must be 16 rollers on the chain between both cam shaft marks

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[Silverex]

Yes, IIRC it’s 16 and 15.5 for the other bank, from mark to mark, which can get confusing with the way they land. So if you make sure you have 14 in between the cam marks your good to go which a lot of guys find easier.

[maxpower2014]

Update
I rent the cam holder tool with the crank lock pin so i set the timing belt correctly all good
Engine compression is good
Still won't start
I pulled the injectors fuel rail to check all injectors
All injectors not priming any fuel
I think the car out of gas now
the fuel gauge almost empty its at the 3 red lll


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[LJS]

OK-
Step back for a moment--
FWIW- I had a similar situation during my build....as you I checked a bunch of stuff but forgot the simple stuff---SPARK PLUGS.
Several members here pointed out my foolishness....Good group of folks here...
No laughing now--Get a fresh set of plugs---gap them to .024" and try to start the auto.
Let us know what happens...
PS- you should have enough fuel to start the car----DONOT let the auto run to empty---your fuel pump will not like that.

[maxpower2014]

OK-
Step back for a moment--
FWIW- I had a similar situation during my build....as you I checked a bunch of stuff but forgot the simple stuff---SPARK PLUGS.
Several members here pointed out my foolishness....Good group of folks here...
No laughing now--Get a fresh set of plugs---gap them to .024" and try to start the auto.
Let us know what happens...
PS- you should have enough fuel to start the car----DONOT let the auto run to empty---your fuel pump will not like that.

my car was running fine with the old sparkplugs
the old plugs are bosch double platinum fr7kpp33
also i bought new set of double platinum bosch spark plugs fr8dpp33 still no luck of starting the car
i will do what you said
i will try gapping the old ones to .024






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[maxpower2014]

old plug vs new one

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[maxpower2014]

I gapped the plugs to 0.25
How is it look after been gapped ?

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[maxpower2014]

hi guys
i gapped the spark plugs to .024 -0.60
still no start
Weak Spark From Coils
the spark is very weak i think this the issue the spark from all ignition coils are very weak

[maxpower2014]

If your car still has ICMs (on the airbox), then make sure that they were hooked up correctly, as I've heard that if the two connections are reversed, you would still have spark, but it wouldn't be going to the correct cylinders, so take a look...

- Jim

Update my car just fired up smooth and fine
I reversed the ICM connecters
The big brown 4 pin connector gos with 3 pin black connector
And the big 4 pin black connector gos to 3 pin brown connector
Its started right up

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[LJS]

WOW- Glad to noodled that out....
Bet you'll never make that mistake again!!!!!

[LJS]

Fwiw....
Your wiring seems odd
This is from my early 00 S4

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[maxpower2014]

actually now i get it my s4 2001 may came crossed from factory some one told that some s4 ICM connectors are crossed
so i figured out 1 brown + 1 black for same ICM and its worked
I remembered that I had an old photo doing TB maybe year ago its not clear but i can see the 2 brown connectors are on the same side


so its goes like this

[maxpower2014]

now after car started ok engine feels good but now got new issue with the new transmission actually same issue that i replaced the old transmission for, which is the fault code P0734 gear 4 incorrect ratio the symptoms are deferent with this transmission this transmission will shift all gears good and smooth as silk at slow acceleration , but when push acceleration hard its will stuck on gear 4 and the code P0734 show up
the old transmission well not shift all gears its only shift 1st 2sd and 3th gears only its will not shift to gear 4 and its goes to natural and the car well not move tell i clear the P0734 code