DIY Video(s): How to change your 3.0T Brake Rotors & Pads

[AudiC7Owners]

Here's my DIY Videos on replacing your Front & Rear brake rotors/brake pads. I used the Zimmerman rotors/Akebono pads kit from FCP Euro (they aren't a sponsor), and the kit came with rotors, pads, brake grease, and rear brake metal guides. It does not come with new hardware, so if you want to replace any of that you will have to purchase it separately.

The job is pretty easy, but messy. You will need VCDS or OBD11 to complete the rear brakes.

*****This is for the larger brake rotors that come on the 3.0T vehicles. There are videos on youtube about changing the brake pads/rotors for the smaller diameter rotors already*****

Tool List:

Front Brakes:
-Blue Loctite
-Brake Grease
-Flathead
-9mm Hex Bit (Must be small enough to fit into the caliper... I got mine from O'Reilly auto parts locally)
-T30 & T45 Torx Bits
-Socket Wrenches
-22mm Socket
-Something to hang the caliper with/secure it so it doesn't stress the brake line
-Breaker Bar
-Torque Wrench
-Hammer/Mallet
-Caliper Piston Compressor

Rear Brakes:
-Blue Loctite
-Brake Grease
-T30 Torx
-Needle Nose Pliers (or thin 15mm Wrench)
-Socket Wrench
-13mm Socket
-Hammer/Mallet
-Caliper Piston Compressor
-VCDS or OBD11

Torque Specs

Front Brakes:
Brake Caliper to Brake Carrier Bolts: 30 NM
Brake Carrier to Wheel Bearing Housing Bolts: 196 NM
Front Cover Plate Bolt: 10 NM
Set Screw: 10 NM

Rear Brakes:
Brake Caliper to Brake Carrier Bolts: 35 NM
Set Screw: 10 NM

Noteworthy Information:
-There is allegedly a way to disengage the Electronic Parking Brake without VCDS/OBD11, but I haven't found the DIY yet. If you know it, let me know so I can add it.

-The rears are way easier to do than the front, but neither are very hard.

-You don't have to remove the carrier for the rear rotors. Just be careful putting in the new rotor and don't scratch it.

-After you have everything installed and your brake fluid reservoir screwed back on, pump your brake pedal until you feel pressure build back up in the pedal before driving.

-When bedding in the brakes, do not come to a complete stop. Bring it down to about 5mph, then start again. Do not let ABS engage.

[09S5]

Thanks.

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[Cayo71]

You can retract the e-brake motor by disconnecting the connector and manually applying 12v to the motor. You just need to pay attention to the polarity. One way it retracts and the other way it presses on the pad. After you are done with the change, re connect the connector, engage and then disengage the e-brake.

[Burkeomatic]

I would add a note to be very careful with the front caliper pins and not to over torque them. I did, and I had to helicoil the carrier as it boogered the threads up so bad they were mostly gone.

[AudiC7Owners]

You can retract the e-brake motor by disconnecting the connector and manually applying 12v to the motor. You just need to pay attention to the polarity. One way it retracts and the other way it presses on the pad. After you are done with the change, re connect the connector, engage and then disengage the e-brake.

Good to know!

- - - Updated - - -

I would add a note to be very careful with the front caliper pins and not to over torque them. I did, and I had to helicoil the carrier as it boogered the threads up so bad they were mostly gone.

Damn dude... never heard of that happening before

[Burkeomatic]

Good to know!

- - - Updated - - -



Damn dude... never heard of that happening before

It was half over torqueing, half I may have put one in a little crooked. I have this innate ability to ruin odd parts, in the evening, on the weekend, when I need the car the next morning.

[AudiC7Owners]

It was half over torqueing, half I may have put one in a little crooked. I have this innate ability to ruin odd parts, in the evening, on the weekend, when I need the car the next morning.

Me and you both man. Story of my life.

[GodFatherMav03]

Bout to be attempting this soon.

[2k16A6]

Bout to be attempting this soon.

Double check your toolbox for that 9mm Allen. Not a standard size, no Allen wrench kit will come with it. I had a hell of a time finding one locally (with the car in pieces of course lol), called about 10 local auto parts stores before I found one that had one on the shelf.

[Burkeomatic]

Double check your toolbox for that 9mm Allen. Not a standard size, no Allen wrench kit will come with it. I had a hell of a time finding one locally (with the car in pieces of course lol), called about 10 local auto parts stores before I found one that had one on the shelf.

This x1000. I got the car apart, and had to steal the wife's car to go to O"Reilly's to get a 9mm allen.

[GodFatherMav03]

Double check your toolbox for that 9mm Allen. Not a standard size, no Allen wrench kit will come with it. I had a hell of a time finding one locally (with the car in pieces of course lol), called about 10 local auto parts stores before I found one that had one on the shelf.

Yes ill be starting my search for that 9mm allen socket before I start the job

[AudiC7Owners]

Double check your toolbox for that 9mm Allen. Not a standard size, no Allen wrench kit will come with it. I had a hell of a time finding one locally (with the car in pieces of course lol), called about 10 local auto parts stores before I found one that had one on the shelf.

This x1000. I got the car apart, and had to steal the wife's car to go to O"Reilly's to get a 9mm allen.

Yes ill be starting my search for that 9mm allen socket before I start the job

This is why I talk about it in the video haha. O'Reilly auto parts luckily had one that worked perfectly. So stupid... every kit goes 6/7/8/10/11 etc. Super Lame

[2k16A6]

This is why I talk about it in the video haha. O'Reilly auto parts luckily had one that worked perfectly. So stupid... every kit goes 6/7/8/10/11 etc. Super Lame

Audi has a p/n for the “special tool” of course, I think it’s like $38

[AudiC7Owners]

Audi has a p/n for the “special tool” of course, I think it’s like $38

The socket from O'Reilly's was 8$ lol

[2k16A6]

The socket from O'Reilly's was 8$ lol

Yeah about the same I paid when I finally found it at an autozone two towns away after calling multiple autozones, advance autos, caps and hardware stores

[AudiC7Owners]

Yeah about the same I paid when I finally found it at an autozone two towns away after calling multiple autozones, advance autos, caps and hardware stores

Ouch

[Valpo A7]

My pins were ******ed up so I picked up a set of aftermarket pins from Advance Auto. I no longer need the 9mm Allen for the front brakes. Also if you need new sensors they are only $10 ish from AA unlike the much more expensive AUDI OEM parts. Aftermarkets work just as good.

I know the book lists a ridiculous torque value for the Brake Carrier to Wheel Bearing Housing Bolts but I have never tightened them to that value without any issues. As tight as I can with an 18 inch breaker or rattle them down with my 1/2 inch air impact. I have never replaced those bolts on any car I have worked on since 1985 as well. I have never used any form of Loctite on any car either for the caliper bolts.

Those little bolts on the fronts that hold the spring and dust plate are easy to screw up as well. Mine are held in with a Heli coil kit at this point. I had M8 Heli coils on hand already from a previous repair on another vehicle. Those OEM bolts are M8 but I am not sure on the thread pitch, I just know that my coils were not the OEM pitch so I had to buy new bolts from Ace Hardware. $3 repair as opposed to new calipers.

For the caliper cylinder compression tool I just use a large C clamp and the old pad.

[AudiC7Owners]

My pins were ******ed up so I picked up a set of aftermarket pins from Advance Auto. I no longer need the 9mm Allen for the front brakes. Also if you need new sensors they are only $10 ish from AA unlike the much more expensive AUDI OEM parts. Aftermarkets work just as good.

I know the book lists a ridiculous torque value for the Brake Carrier to Wheel Bearing Housing Bolts but I have never tightened them to that value without any issues. As tight as I can with an 18 inch breaker or rattle them down with my 1/2 inch air impact. I have never replaced those bolts on any car I have worked on since 1985 as well. I have never used any form of Loctite on any car either for the caliper bolts.

Those little bolts on the fronts that hold the spring and dust plate are easy to screw up as well. Mine are held in with a Heli coil kit at this point. I had M8 Heli coils on hand already from a previous repair on another vehicle. Those OEM bolts are M8 but I am not sure on the thread pitch, I just know that my coils were not the OEM pitch so I had to buy new bolts from Ace Hardware. $3 repair as opposed to new calipers.

For the caliper cylinder compression tool I just use a large C clamp and the old pad.

I figured most of the "torque Specs" for the carrier to bearing bolts just meant "effing tight", but I've found if I don't list the "proper" technique people get upset haha.

My c-clamp didn't work for me, but it's kind of awkward. This tool wasn't expensive and was super easy to use so I'm not mad about buying it. It will work on my wife's car as well.

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

This thread is great as was the video. Thanks for sharing!

[GodFatherMav03]

This is why I talk about it in the video haha. O'Reilly auto parts luckily had one that worked perfectly. So stupid... every kit goes 6/7/8/10/11 etc. Super Lame

Found a 9mm hex bit at Autozone for $6......AA didnt have sh%t....i think i have all the parts, tools i need fore the install. just waiting on the pads and rotors....You guys this I should get replacement set screws?
ordered my rotors and pads from Adams rotors

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Found a 9mm hex bit at Autozone for $6......AA didnt have sh%t....i think i have all the parts, tools i need fore the install. just waiting on the pads and rotors....You guys this I should get replacement set screws?
ordered my rotors and pads from Adams rotors

I got away with not replacing the set screws, but have ruined many in the past. Maybe I’m ham fisted, but i tend to strip them. PB blaster and a little luck may get you through the job.

Next time I’ll order set screws and will have them IN CASE, just like sensor wires.


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[AudiC7Owners]

This thread is great as was the video. Thanks for sharing!

Found a 9mm hex bit at Autozone for $6......AA didnt have sh%t....i think i have all the parts, tools i need fore the install. just waiting on the pads and rotors....You guys this I should get replacement set screws?
ordered my rotors and pads from Adams rotors

If you think the set screw is rusted or potentially damaged then get replacements. I didn't replace mine

I got away with not replacing the set screws, but have ruined many in the past. Maybe I’m ham fisted, but i tend to strip them. PB blaster and a little luck may get you through the job.

Next time I’ll order set screws and will have them IN CASE, just like sensor wires.


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What he said

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[Valpo A7]

Are you guys talking about those little screws that "hold" the rotor in place? Mine got screwed up about 15,000 - 20,000 miles ago and I never replaced mine. I quit using the guide bolt as well and just line it up then lift the wheel into place. I actually broke that wimpy plastic one that comes with the tool kit and superglued it back together but have not taken it out of the trunk since. Tempted to buy a metal 1 off Amazon.

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Are you guys talking about those little screws that "hold" the rotor in place? Mine got screwed up about 15,000 - 20,000 miles ago and I never replaced mine. I quit using the guide bolt as well and just line it up then lift the wheel into place. I actually broke that wimpy plastic one that comes with the tool kit and superglued it back together but have not taken it out of the trunk since. Tempted to buy a metal 1 off Amazon.

Yes; the tiny set screw on the rotor. They simply hold the darn thing in place while doing your work. I typically strip them and keep a couple spares because I hate lining everything up when the rotor can move. Having a metal guide would solve that problem, making set screw irrelevant.

I just mentioned it to help make things easy.


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[AudiC7Owners]

Are you guys talking about those little screws that "hold" the rotor in place? Mine got screwed up about 15,000 - 20,000 miles ago and I never replaced mine. I quit using the guide bolt as well and just line it up then lift the wheel into place. I actually broke that wimpy plastic one that comes with the tool kit and superglued it back together but have not taken it out of the trunk since. Tempted to buy a metal 1 off Amazon.

Buy 2 of the metal ones. Worth it.

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