Water pump torque specs?

[Novarider]

I'm changing my water pump today and I can't find the torque specs for the water pump bolts. Someone please help me out.

[silver_tt]

9 Nm

[Justin B8]

If you are also replacing the pump union (to the oil cooler), carefully inspect the o-rings. After replacing mine, I had a slow coolant leak/drip.
Pulled it apart to discover the o-rings on my new union were poorly made and not actually round. There's also a recommended torque pattern to the pump.

[silver_tt]

You should always replace the union with the pump. It also makes sense to replace the belt too while you are at it since it costs almost nothing.

Here's the sequence:
Capture.JPG

[Novarider]

Thanks guys, definitely changing the union.

How do I remove the hoses that connect to the thermostat housing? They have solid metal bands on them not oetiker clamps.

[silver_tt]

If I recall they have metal clips, just pull up on the metal clip and then pull the hose off

[Theiceman]

Thanks guys, definitely changing the union.

How do I remove the hoses that connect to the thermostat housing? They have solid metal bands on them not oetiker clamps.

look closer to the pump you will see the quick disconnect clip

Also carefully consider that belt, most including myself just leave it alone as its a pain in the ass and is driven off the balance shaft. it sees no really serious tension or stress and even after 130K mile mine looked brand new so i left it alone.

You can wiggle it out and leave belt in place then hook it back under the belt when putting it back.

[Novarider]

I'm going to leave the belt. Got all the bolts out and belt slid off but now the pump doesn't want to come off. It moves but just a little bit.

[Theiceman]

I'm going to leave the belt. Got all the bolts out and belt slid off but now the pump doesn't want to come off. It moves but just a little bit.

how many bolts are in your hand ?

[Novarider]

5 3 long 2 short

[Theiceman]

5 3 long 2 short

then i'm thinking its just the tube to the oil cooler holding it up, keep at it , it will come.

[Novarider]

It kinda looks like it's hung up on a bracket that holds the injectors/fuel rail

[Theiceman]

It kinda looks like it's hung up on a bracket that holds the injectors/fuel rail

ohhhh that might be ... i changed mine on my engine stand and i cant remember the state of the engine, so more bits might have to come off if you cant work it out.

[Novarider]

Got it off. It just popped off after struggling with it forever. I think it is the original pump, looks like it has a date code of 12/2010. It had a layer of flaky stuff on the bottom of it, looks like it had a slow leak for a while.

[Novarider]

How about throttle body torque specs?

[Smac770]

10Nm for the throttle body bolts. But be careful with them; I've got one that free spins at this point. Can't just helicoil it being that it's plastic. Bastards for not using metal inserts or something.

How does the rotational aspect of the pump seem? Mine has no coolant leak, but I've wondered if the pump could otherwise be deteriorated such that it could be making noise or be an inconsistent resistance to rotation. 225k miles on the original at this point.

[Novarider]

I set my torque wrench to 9nm but it felt like they were going to strip out so I stopped short of 9nm.

Spinning the old pump is much easier than the new one. New one has light resistance old one will free spin. Felt like a typical old worn out water pump.

[Theiceman]

may be of interest to some

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ght=water+pump

[Chillaxin]

10Nm for the throttle body bolts. But be careful with them; I've got one that free spins at this point. Can't just helicoil it being that it's plastic. Bastards for not using metal inserts or something.

How does the rotational aspect of the pump seem? Mine has no coolant leak, but I've wondered if the pump could otherwise be deteriorated such that it could be making noise or be an inconsistent resistance to rotation. 225k miles on the original at this point.

Check out some of these threaded inserts. I don't know what the TB fastener sizes are, but there are lots to choose from.

https://www.mcmaster.com/threaded-in...se-in~plastic/

[Smac770]

I'll have to look into something like those. The bolts are M6x45, but a really coarse pitch: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ach/n10626101/ I'll likely have to use a more standard screw pitch with an insert.

[Justin B8]

10Nm for the throttle body bolts. But be careful with them; I've got one that free spins at this point. Can't just helicoil it being that it's plastic. Bastards for not using metal inserts or something.

Audi engineers baffle me sometimes; no threaded insert for the TB on the manifold, which gets removed a few times over the life of the car.
But they spec a threaded insert for the tiny rear headlight leveler (and it's exposed to weather, so the screw in it is rusted fast).

[Novarider]

I wasn't changing the pump because of a leak. I was changing it because I was getting a cooling under threshold code (don't remember what the actual code was) that was probably either the temp sensor or thermostat. I was fairly certain the pump had never been changed so I figured I'd go ahead and change the whole thing for peace of mind.


Got everything back together, start the car and the radiator starts purging antifreeze from the passenger side. It's not coming from the driver side and running over and it's not coming from the block. It's running down the far right (passenger) side of the radiator. Looks like it decided to take a crap literally right after I changed the water pump. FML

[silver_tt]

I did my coolant pump preemptively at 80K...I have seen them go much longer but I consider 80K miles to be pretty good life out of a pump considering how important it is. Going to do the $15 plastic coolant manifold that sits on the back of the head here soon, part just came yesterday.

[Theiceman]

I wasn't changing the pump because of a leak. I was changing it because I was getting a cooling under threshold code (don't remember what the actual code was) that was probably either the temp sensor or thermostat. I was fairly certain the pump had never been changed so I figured I'd go ahead and change the whole thing for peace of mind.


Got everything back together, start the car and the radiator starts purging antifreeze from the passenger side. It's not coming from the driver side and running over and it's not coming from the block. It's running down the far right (passenger) side of the radiator. Looks like it decided to take a crap literally right after I changed the water pump. FML

I wonder if your new pump had enough firepower so something marginal let go... Maybe even what you just found was the actual route cause of your issue ...


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[Zenonek]

Little help here.. water pump housing to engine block torque 9nm, what about the actual pump to housing? I got my in three seterate pieces, union, pump housing and pump from Audi, three seperate parts, Pump attaches to housing with 4 bolts, what the torque for those? Thx..

[Smac770]

There's no spec from Audi for that as it's not considered a serviceable interface by Audi. It's unlikely you ordered an Audi OE part and received it that way.

The Gen3 changed the nomenclature and cataloging of the related parts. If we take that as an example, assuming it to be similar, the spec is 9 Nm. Bolt order: lower outer, upper inner, middle inner, upper middle. Or if you're looking at the pulley as the pump would be mounted, 7:30, 1:30, 3:00, 12:00.

[Zenonek]

It actually what it is in the uk.
06L 121 131
06L 121 111 P
06L 121 012 L

I also thought it is a one part.
First ordeded housing, while at the dealer realized there is no union included, got back, got the union.
At home realised no pump within housing. Ordered pump...

[Zenonek]

And pump unit is cast metal.. not plastic

[Zenonek]

https://www.audizine.com/gallery/sho...p?photo=101939

[Smac770]

If you have a Gen3 engine, then it's as I quoted from the Gen3 workshop manual. 9 Nm, in the order noted. In your image, the bolt low left is first, then the opposite bolt high right, then the bolt to the right of the sprocket, and then the bolt above (and a bit left) of the sprocket.


And it appears TSB 2061604 actually makes reference to replacing the water pump plate on the Gen1/Gen2 coolant pumps. 10 Nm, in a circle from the outer bottom bolt around clockwise to the inner bottom bolt. But the TSB makes clear why I guess Audi didn't want the pump replaced in the field; it's a good bit a work to calibrate the placement to get the correct distance to the drive sprocket on the balance shaft. Guess they figured out how to resolve this with the Gen3 version, as separating the housing and pump are standard fare there.

[Zenonek]

Thank you. Im giving it a go today.
It started leaking from housing somewhere, at 43k miles. Early i may say..