B8.5 S4 Engine Mount Replacement

[SteveYem]

I took my 2015 S4 6MT with 74000 miles to the dealership service department today to get an exhaust rattle checked out (thinking maybe it's a piece of broken catalytic converter substrate so I better let the dealer see it). We didn't get to the bottom of that just yet, but while the car was up on the lift the technician identified that both engine mounts are leaking hydraulic fluid and should be replaced soon. I knew the car would start to cost me a pretty penny at some point, and here we are. I have a few questions about this:

1) Is it common around here for engine mounts to fail by 74000 miles? Based on how 'jerky' the car has felt for the past couple years, I'd venture a guess that they actually started failing around ~55k miles.

2) Does anyone have good experience with the Meyle mounts? They are much less expensive than the OEM ones

3) I suppose labor rate varies from one zip code to the next and someone will always get a lower quote just to make me feel bad about myself.....but any anecdotal input based on past experience with replacing engine mounts in this car would be appreciated, e.g. time to complete job, whether the car felt better after the replacement

4) Based on the scope of work needed to access the engine mounts, is there anything else I should consider having the shop do while they are at it?

5) EDIT - I've had the 034 solid transmission mount insert installed for ~5 years at this point. When I first installed it I felt that just about all the slop was taken out of the driveline, i.e. no bucking/jerking when engaging the clutch. In the few years following the jerkiness came back, but the transmission mount is still securely in place. I suppose the torque has to go somewhere....maybe by restricting the movement at the transmission, the engine mounts ended up taking more abuse and led to their early failure? Curious whether anyone else with the solid transmission mount insert has experienced engine mount failure sooner than expected...

[rawb]

For #1, my B8.5 S4 had this issue shortly after buying it CPO'd at 37k miles. I'd like to say between 40-45k. So they definitely happen early, mine threw a code as well. It was covered though as I said so not sure about costs.

[SteveYem]

For #1, my B8.5 S4 had this issue shortly after buying it CPO'd at 37k miles. I'd like to say between 40-45k. So they definitely happen early, mine threw a code as well. It was covered though as I said so not sure about costs.

Interesting to know, thanks! And that makes me feel slightly better about #5.
Nice that yours was covered - my Audi technician friend mentioned that his recollection was $1300 per side as quoted by his service department....seems steep enough that I've reached out to my favorite local indy shop for their quote.

[sacandagaD]

I thought the passenger side mount was relatively easy to replace, with the driver's side being the most labor intensive, and having to lift the engine slightly for that one?

[fastboatster]

way too steep, even if, say, their labor rate is 300 per hour, that would be like 4 hrs per side. Passenger side definitively doesn't take this much time even on jacks. Find a good indy shop.

[djn876]

I put 034 ones in and so far they are great, but not much runtime yet. Meyle HD is good as well.

Adding power is going to wear them out a lot faster too depending on driving style. One side for me was pretty worn, but not leaking at around 55k or so, the other side was slightly better. Not uncommon at all.

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[SteveYem]

Thanks, gents, for the feedback. After a flurry of internet searching over my lunch break, and a call to my local indy shop, I've decided to go with the 034 Street Density mounts. Higher durometer urethane than the stock mounts, and without any hydraulic fluid to leak out in the future. It seems that this 'active' mount design, as clever as it is, ends up being a weak link on many vehicle brands, and I'm sure having the car tuned for higher torque output only exploits the design further. Fingers crossed that the failing mounts are the source of the driveline slop that I've been noticing over the past couple of years and that the car feels more composed with the replacements.

Side note, my shop quoted $580 for the labor, so all in I'm looking at about $1000. Not good but not the worst. We'll live to drive another day.

Oh, also, I found that FCP Euro sells the 034 mounts in a Left and Right pair/kit for about $13 less than buying each one individually. A small victory!

[B7TitaniumA4]

Get new bolts for the mount, they are TTY.

I did mine in my garage in about 4 hours just using an engine bar and some muscle. Not a horrible job. I have a 6spd so I’m sure I am lacking some lines that are potentially in the way from the DSG…


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[SteveYem]

Get new bolts for the mount, they are TTY.

I did mine in my garage in about 4 hours just using an engine bar and some muscle. Not a horrible job. I have a 6spd so I’m sure I am lacking some lines that are potentially in the way from the DSG…


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Thanks for the heads up on the bolts!
Yeah, seems like 4 hours is about par for this job. Mine is also 6MT

[fastboatster]

Okay, you can definitely do it yourself, just get a 3 point engine support bar. Harbor freight bar will not be ideal for this. Can use a jack under the pan but there’s not much space you can put a jack on safely there. Driver side will require ac compressor and oil heat exchanger removal, ac compressor removal is not bad if you have somebody evacuate the system for you. Or you can drop the subframe but that’ll mess up the alignment and bolts are also not reusable officially. It isn’t less work imo, but I might be wrong.

[Ashtonts]

Okay, you can definitely do it yourself, just get a 3 point engine support bar. Harbor freight bar will not be ideal for this. Can use a jack under the pan but there’s not much space you can put a jack on safely there. Driver side will require ac compressor and oil heat exchanger removal, ac compressor removal is not bad if you have somebody evacuate the system for you. Or you can drop the subframe but that’ll mess up the alignment and bolts are also not reusable officially. It isn’t less work imo, but I might be wrong.

Dropping the subframe looks like a TON less work IMO. Very easy and I've never had a problem reusing subframe bolts on any of my Audis, even though you aren't "supposed" to.

[SteveYem]

I will freely admit - a few years ago I would have been inclined to DIY this, but at my current stage I'm willing to cough up the dollars to let a shop do it. I've crawled underneath my car (on jack stands or ramps) enough times to know that I don't really want to do that anymore. This is in stark contrast to the many hours I spent laying on my driveway installing sway bars + end links and an aftermarket exhaust system on this car. I've had my fill : )

[fastboatster]

Dropping the subframe looks like a TON less work IMO. Very easy and I've never had a problem reusing subframe bolts on any of my Audis, even though you aren't "supposed" to.

May be the case, idk. Passenger side mount is easy, almost nothing else comes out, I did have to unbolt the alternator to get it out but might be because I didn’t undo some cable I was supposed to and didn’t place the floor jack in the right spot. Haven’t done the driver side in a car (passenger mount had to came out so I could tilt the engine to the side so I could torque some exhaust manifold bolts), but had to remove and reinstall the ac compressor some time ago, it’s not bad at all, all 3 bolts are accessible with straight extensions. Can’t speak for the heat exchanger but seems to be okay as well. One issue with subframe removal is that Audi’s alignment procedure is asking to loosen the subframe bolts and shifting it to get an even caster (I think it was caster, I don’t remember) on both sides and almost no shop will bother with this. Might be cheaper to evacuate the ac and refill it when done

[S4'ed]

The subframe is adjusted left or right to equalize the camber, not the caster.

[fastboatster]

The subframe is adjusted left or right to equalize the camber, not the caster.

yes, correct. my point though is that many shops won't get the alignment completely right because they won't bother loosening and adjusting the subframe position. One of the reasons I'd prefer to "mess" with AC system since many places can refill it correctly and relatively cheap rather than do subframe manipulations unless absolutely necessary.