Supercharge belt idler pulley replacement

[djsauce]

Hi all, I have diagnosed a squeaky noise from my idler pulley, has anone replaced this before, looking for any hints/tips or steps to replace.

Its the one in the red box, part of the supercharger belt system. It has a triple square head, not sure of the size (M12?). I assume I can get it off without removing the front bumper etc. Do i need to move the tensioner to get the belt on/off?



thanks

(I tried searching but I keep getting hits for supercharge pulleys)

[B18b1ex]

Service position and it’s very easy, however if your belt is a bando or not new, I’d change that first as my squeaky noise was the belt although I wasted time and money on the pulley. 🥲


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[B7TitaniumA4]

Not sure if this will help. It’s a real photo of my motor. The water pump pulley, SC pulley and the idler are removed. The SC idler sits over the accessory idler and the SC tensioner is down lower. You should
Be able to get it out without removing anything more than the belt, but I agree service position is your friend. Circled is where the idler bolts into.






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[djsauce]

Thanks all. So Service Position needs removal of front bumper cover etc. Or I see if I have enough room for my wrench to get in between the rad and pulley.

[MSq5]

Thanks all. So Service Position needs removal of front bumper cover etc. Or I see if I have enough room for my wrench to get in between the rad and pulley.

You can change the belt without service position, even install an oversize crank pulley. But to replace the tensioner or idler pulleys you need enough room to pull tbe center bolt out without it hitting the radiator or shroud. The bolts are long. There might not be enough room.

Someone else might come along and make a definitive statement. Bolt length will be the issue. I'd put it in service position.

[B7TitaniumA4]

Some more pics. My factory idler and the new idler have the bolt “secured” to the bearing so It cannot be removed without the pulley… mine are both 10mm triple Square. Doubt you’re getting it out without being in service position.






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[MSq5]

Some more pics. My factory idler and the new idler have the bolt “secured” to the bearing so It cannot be removed without the pulley… mine are both 10mm triple Square. Doubt you’re getting it out without being in service position.






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Given the length of that bolt, service position seems necessary. OP can try, but highly doubtful.

[B18b1ex]

This is from today personally I think service position is absolutely necessary for this.


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[RPMtech147]

This is from today personally I think service position is absolutely necessary for this.


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It can be done without service position but you fight with it so hard and tear up your hands and arms, you actually spend less time going service position.

[djsauce]

Update: Was only able to pull out the front bumper/clip about 1.5", not sure why its not sliding out to the full 3-4" THEN, the old pulley bolt is not coming out, whe nI took a picture of it, it does not look like the new M10 triple suqre head, it looks really stripped but more like a hex - which can be oringal (I boughtthe car used).

So now I need to figure out how to get the old pulley off, cut pulley, penetrating oil, heat....?

[djsauce]

Update: Was only able to pull out the front bumper/clip about 1.5", not sure why its not sliding out to the full 3-4" THEN, the old pulley bolt is not coming out, whe nI took a picture of it, it does not look like the new M10 triple suqre head, it looks really stripped but more like a hex - which can be oringal (I boughtthe car used).

So now I need to figure out how to get the old pulley off, cut pulley, penetrating oil, heat....?

Pic with old pulley bolt attached (taken usin a mirror)

[sepheroth86]

Maybe a Torx?

[B7TitaniumA4]

Wtf happened to the face of the bearing? Jagged metal?


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[djsauce]

That was me trying to grip it, after the m10 bit wasnt working

[B7TitaniumA4]

Ouch


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[sacandagaD]

Damn, that sucks. It definitely looks like someone replaced the bolt with something else, since it should be a Triple Square. That could well be why it is failing. If you can't get a bit or an extractor on it, you may end up having to take entire front clip off for access.

[djsauce]

Damn, that sucks. It definitely looks like someone replaced the bolt with something else, since it should be a Triple Square. That could well be why it is failing. If you can't get a bit or an extractor on it, you may end up having to take entire front clip off for access.

This thought keeps crossing my mind! Going to try and use penetrating oil and a wire brush on the head and threads if i can

[djsauce]

Last update: After a gruelling few hours in the sun, the idler pulley is on and the noise I had is gone , so good. Here is a quick summary of what I did:

1) Uses a cheap auto stethoscope from Amazon to diagnose what was making the noise, listened to the centre pins and housings of all pumps, pulleys and etc - BE CARFEUL when doing this due to moving parts. This also helped be save over $1000 as I thought it was the servo pump first

2) Remove radiator shroud, 5 screws on the bottom of the bumper skin, headlight connectors and expansion tank hose - makes sure the hose retaining clip doesn’t fly off lol. Search for putting the car in SERVICE POSITION for more info

3) Remove the front bumper skin and disconnect the fog light connectors

4) Remove the 6 bots on the crash bar and pull out (service position) - this gives you about 3" from the pulley and radiator fans to get your wrenches in there

5) Remove the supercharge belt but putting a 16mm wrench (preferably long) on the tensioner to remove the slack

6) Normally you would take off idler pulley with M10 triple square bit. For me, see the pics, I had to cut with an angle grinder, VERY CAREFULLY, as the head of the pulley boly was previously stripped. Once cut, I pried away the pulley and bearing pack, then put a pipe wrench on the bolt and it turned out of the housing. This took the most time and you have to be very careful.

7) Put in new pulley and torque to 31 ft-lbs

8) Reverse steps 2) to 5)


The pics show the old and new pulley side by side and the cut open bearing pack

[sepheroth86]

Your old one definitely looks like a Torx or similar bit from the last picture.

[sacandagaD]

Kudos OP! Even though it was a obviously real bitch, it's very satisfying when you encounter a mechanical problem that looks catastrophic at first, and then finally conquer it. And also, the next time you need to pull the front end, you will know what you are in for.

[20vturbo]

hi, anyone knows how much torque for the pulleys and tensioner bolts?

[ccssid]

Screenshot (74).jpg

40Nm

[20vturbo]

Screenshot (74).jpg

40Nm

Tx

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[20vturbo]

Screenshot (74).jpg

40Nm

Is it the same for all if them?

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[ccssid]

If you mean for both the tensioner bolts...yes

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[20vturbo]

If you mean for both the tensioner bolts...yes

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There are 2 idlers and 2 tensioners, 2 for acc belt, 2 for the supercharger belt,the bolts look the same, i am assuming torque is the same as well

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[ccssid]

That is correct