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  1. #1
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    3 differents alignments and steering wheel still too off when driving...

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    Hey everyone,

    I've been having this issue since a bit after buying my car a year ago and really wanted to know if it is me or is my car really needs a 4th alignment....

    So here is how my steering looks driving on every single street on the right side of the road (took by my friend over my shoulder sitting in the back) :



    When I'm on the left side, it gets kinda more straight but still have to adjust it a bit to the left to let it always go straight.

    I went in 3 different parking lots, where the ground is fully flat and my steering looks pretty straight. I can't get how the only way to have an almost straight steering is when driving in the middle of a parking after closing time

    Infos on the car :

    - S-Line suspension with H&R SS Springs
    - Brand new tires
    - Wheels 100% straight
    - Almost new tie-rods, etc in the suspension/direction
    - Alignment done at 3 shops here in Montreal known in all the province to be pros in working on Lambos, Porsches, Audis, VWs and all told me that everything is now perfect.

    Am I just crazy or the steering should at least be straight elsewhere than a parking lot ? It is super annoying to always keep the steering crooked to the left. I know roads are not flat due to rain issues but is it that bad for everyone ?
    Last edited by zizouomar; 05-31-2021 at 01:14 PM.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    I have dealt with the same thing on my A4 B6. You can center the wheel without changing the alignment. You will have to make equal but opposite adjustments on the tie rod ends.

    Mark your tie rod arms and locking nuts to your tie rod bodies with a paint pen.

    Loosen the right side locking nut and and back it out two flats. Turn the tie rod arm into the tie rod body until the nut is back against the tie rod body. Snug it up.

    Loose the left side locking nut and rotate the tie rod arm out of the tie rod body until then locking nut has move two flats away from the tie rod body. Turn the locking nut in two flats and snug it up.

    Check your wheel centering. You may have to repeat the procedure and add a few more flats of adjustment. Note the amount of movement from the first adjustment and adjust accordingly if necessary.

    As long as you make equal but opposite adjustments your toe-in adjustment will not change. Here's some info on how to do it on a B6. Clicky click® The b8 is a bit different since the steering arms are front steer rather than rear steer but the overall concept of adjustment is the same.
    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    2006 A4Q, 1978 911 Targa, 2006 Jetta TDI
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    Before doing any adjustment to anything I'd check the u joint on the steering shaft and grease it up. No way it should be stiff.
    Also is car lowered from stock ?

    Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app
    2014 A4 2.0TQ Technik Manual
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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    You need to lift the car, remove the belly pan, check if the steering wheel is straight when the alignment arrow on the rack is centered.
    If it is, then when the wheel and rack are centered, the car direction is not. Maybe they've got the number of turns on the tie rod ends off. Or the rack itself has an internal issue. But you'd be looking at the rack.
    If it's not, when you center the alignment arrow, is your wheel now like how when you drive? Then your wheel is simply installed at an angle.
    If the rack is centered but now your wheel is off at some other angle, then probably back to rack issues, internal or with the tie rod ends.
    I guess you could also have excess play between the wheel and rack, so you should check that too.
    I can't find a pic of the arrow. It's obvious if you look at the underside of the rack where the intermediate shaft attaches.
    2009 A4 Avant 2.0T quattro Prestige, 275k miles

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    2006 A4Q, 1978 911 Targa, 2006 Jetta TDI
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    How did this start ?? Did it ever drive correctly ? Did you buy it like this ? Is there an accident history ? Could also be tweaked at the back and the thrust angle is off, but you would think they would catch that on an alignment.

    I'm not sure how a reputable shop let's you drive away like that without figuring what is wrong, never mind 3.

    Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app
    2014 A4 2.0TQ Technik Manual
    2006 A4 2.0TQ Manual
    1978 Porsche 911SC Targa
    1976 Yamaha XS 360
    Note: PMs disabled, please keep requests for technical help on the forums to benefit everyone:

  6. #6
    Senior Member Three Rings A4B8 2.0tfsi's Avatar
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    First shop didn't get it done properly. Why on earth go to another shop???
    2012 A4 B8 Avant 6MT F23L Custom Tune 3" 200 cell DP Sachs Performance Clutch

  7. #7
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Theiceman View Post
    How did this start ?? Did it ever drive correctly ? Did you buy it like this ? Is there an accident history ? Could also be tweaked at the back and the thrust angle is off, but you would think they would catch that on an alignment.

    I'm not sure how a reputable shop let's you drive away like that without figuring what is wrong, never mind 3.

    Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app
    I live in a city where potholes are more numerous than people so it just got worse and worse when at the start it was great and straight.
    No accident.

    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    I have dealt with the same thing on my A4 B6. You can center the wheel without changing the alignment. You will have to make equal but opposite adjustments on the tie rod ends.

    Mark your tie rod arms and locking nuts to your tie rod bodies with a paint pen.

    Loosen the right side locking nut and and back it out two flats. Turn the tie rod arm into the tie rod body until the nut is back against the tie rod body. Snug it up.

    Loose the left side locking nut and rotate the tie rod arm out of the tie rod body until then locking nut has move two flats away from the tie rod body. Turn the locking nut in two flats and snug it up.

    Check your wheel centering. You may have to repeat the procedure and add a few more flats of adjustment. Note the amount of movement from the first adjustment and adjust accordingly if necessary.

    As long as you make equal but opposite adjustments your toe-in adjustment will not change. Here's some info on how to do it on a B6. Clicky click® The b8 is a bit different since the steering arms are front steer rather than rear steer but the overall concept of adjustment is the same.
    Would I be able to complete this process only using jack stands ? If I happen to try it out.

    Quote Originally Posted by Theiceman View Post
    Before doing any adjustment to anything I'd check the u joint on the steering shaft and grease it up. No way it should be stiff.
    Also is car lowered from stock ?

    Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app
    U-Joint replaced under warranty by dealer. I know that annoying issue when it just gets stiff and inconsistant while turning but haven't had that issue with this car yet. That's not it right now

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zizouomar View Post
    Would I be able to complete this process only using jack stands ? If I happen to try it out.
    No jack stands required. Just pull your car up on ramps and you can access everything you need to make the adjustments.
    Last edited by old guy; 06-01-2021 at 01:12 PM.
    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings
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    San Diego

    Have you tried swapping the front tires side to side?

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings eurojunkjon's Avatar
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    Mar 12 2017
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    2013 S4
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    Burlington, wi

    I’ve had issues where the subframe needed to be realigned after lowering the car, just giving my 2 cents but I’m sure everyone else is dead on especially old guy.
    2013 S4 Imola Yellow / IE Stage 2 / ECS Supercharger Pulley / IE Intake / ECS HX / AWE Non Resonated Downpipes / AWE Touring Exhaust / Vogtland Coilovers / Rs4 Grill / Eurocode SS / Black Forest Shift Knob / BBS LM-R / Alcon BBK / S6 Rear Brakes

    1996 Golf Harlequin #10

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Dec 03 2016
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    If it's notchy you need the joint realigned or replaced, that's dangerous. If you've been to all those places by now you should take it to Audi especially if it's electronic steering and have everything recalibrated and centered.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Update on the issue guys, thanks again for all your help.

    To answer the questions, tires are brand new not even 2 weeks and the issue was there before the new set.
    The car doesnt have any frame issue.
    Joint is new, replaced under warranty at the stealership.

    So I called back the last shop and they told me to come back so they can check it up, for free of course.
    I saw them putting the car 4 times on the rack, going on 4 road tests. They told me they realigned it and now it is 100% good.

    Still the same issue. I'm starting to think that I'm really the crazy one. I tried driving in their huge parking lot where the ground is fully flat and the car felt straight with no crook in the steering.
    But my god how the car is still so annoying on the normal roads/highways. I always have to correct it to the left or else I'll end up in the shoulder. Once again, the worst case is when i'm on the right side of the road, looks like i'm going left if you look at my steering. Can't believe all Audis drive like that ?

    Should I try old guy trick and touch up the tie rods my self ?


  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings RPMtech147's Avatar
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    Texas

    Yes, old guy trick if it bothers you that much. Otherwise, ignore it.
    B6 S4, B8 A4, 8P A3, and something, something.

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Three Rings SNice's Avatar
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    Aug 06 2019
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    Philadelphia

    Just throwing this out there...
    Maybe PO swapped out the steering wheel and didn’t put it on straight. When I swapped mine out, I marked the teeth to be sure I clocked it right when the new one went on. Of course, if the car doesn’t track straight - this would not be a solution.


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  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    '13 A5, '24 Tiguan SEL R-Line
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    Quote Originally Posted by zizouomar View Post

    I always have to correct it to the left or else I'll end up in the shoulder. Once again, the worst case is when i'm on the right side of the road, looks like I'm going left if you look at my steering.
    Should I try old guy trick and touch up the tie rods my self ?
    The procedure that I outlined will enable you to center your steering wheel when driving in a straight line. It will not do anything to alleviate a pull in either direction.

    If it's simply your wheel appearing off-center you can correct it with the tie rods. If you are having to actively adjust to go straight it will not help.
    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    '13 A5, '24 Tiguan SEL R-Line
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    If you are having to actively adjust to maintain a straight line and you toe settings are good there is something else to consider.

    As you probably know the camber and caster isn't (easily) adjustable. I assume the alignment shops are giving you a print out. What are your front camber and caster readings?

    I chased a slight pull condition on my A4 B6 for several months before I finally solved the issue. My toe settings were good and I shifted the front subframe to get the camber perfectly centered. Yet the slight pull remained when traveling in the right lane. If I switched to the left lane the car tracked straight.

    After measuring everything possible I noticed that my front right spring was sagging about 3/8" lower than the front left spring. I have Eibach Prokit springs that at the time had around 230K miles of service.

    I fabricated a spacer by unloading the spring and adding a split piece of hose under the lower coils. Once I loaded the suspension the springs leveled out and the pulling in the right lane was cured.

    I just reached up under the car and blindly took a few pics. Hopefully this will give you and idea as to what I did.



    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  17. #17
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Update :

    I'm a dumbass.
    Issue found and resolved : I was filling up gas when something got me on the rear right side tire. It looked somehow deflated compared to the others. While at the gas station I went to the air dispenser and surprise surprise, this one was at 22 when the 3 others at 42 PSI. I've never inflated my tires this high anyways so I've put them all at 38 PSI.
    Everything is now fine, car drives straight and doesnt pull anymore.
    Now I just have to watch it regularly this week to see if it deflates again as the tires are brand new and came with a road hazard warranty.

    Thanks to all of you anyway guys, finally I was just not smart enough to look at my tire pressure. I wonder how the last shop didnt notice it though.

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Good to hear that you got it sorted out!

    That's pretty poor service from the alignment shops you visited. The very first step for any alignment would be to first check the tire pressures. They obviously skipped the basics...
    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  19. #19
    Senior Member Three Rings A4B8 2.0tfsi's Avatar
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    Why on earth would an alignement include tire pressure? Thats not a given.
    2012 A4 B8 Avant 6MT F23L Custom Tune 3" 200 cell DP Sachs Performance Clutch

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A4B8 2.0tfsi View Post
    Why on earth would an alignement include tire pressure? Thats not a given.
    Because tire pressure affects the level of the body which affects the suspension geometry.
    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

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