PR code help (Smac??)

[bb-tt]

Smac,
Or anyone for that matter do you know what pr code NY2 (extra battery capacity) is or what it means? My original battery from 2011 has finally needed jumped one to many times.


no. No. Origin Family Description
130 J0B L BAT Battery 520 A (92 Ah)
135 NY2 L BGK Increased battery capacity

[Smac770]

I've never seen the NYx codes before when looking at B8 stuff. While I'm sure my car has a NYx PR code associated with it, it didn't make the short list on the PR code sticker. I'd need to get the full unabridged list for my VIN from a dealership.

NY0 BGK Standard battery/alternator capacity
NY1 BGK Increased battery/alternator capacity
NY2 BGK Increased battery capacity
NY3 BGK Increased alternator capacity
NY4 BGK AGM battery and increased alternator capacity
NY5 BGK AGM battery and standard alternator capacity

There's a specific PR code for the battery, separate from this NYx charging system specification PR code. That's the Jxx PR code. Yours is J0B, the same as mine: 92Ah group 49 (H8) AGM. So that's what I would look for if you need to replace it. Just about everyone has some H8 AGM battery available. Old list I had made back when I was looking into a replacement - https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...1#post13263820

[DrGER]

I got the full set of PR codes from erWin for our '14 A4q VIN when we got the car in '17, which included code "NY2" (but not on the PR sticker), along with battery code "J0Z" (Battery 520 A (110 Ah)). No AGM spec indicated. So, the question here might be "battery capacity increased from what?" IDK. Seems to me the J0x code is more relevant when battery replacement is required.

[bb-tt]

I've never seen the NYx codes before when looking at B8 stuff. While I'm sure my car has a NYx PR code associated with it, it didn't make the short list on the PR code sticker. I'd need to get the full unabridged list for my VIN from a dealership.

NY0 BGK Standard battery/alternator capacity
NY1 BGK Increased battery/alternator capacity
NY2 BGK Increased battery capacity
NY3 BGK Increased alternator capacity
NY4 BGK AGM battery and increased alternator capacity
NY5 BGK AGM battery and standard alternator capacity

There's a specific PR code for the battery, separate from this NYx charging system specification PR code. That's the Jxx PR code. Yours is J0B, the same as mine: 92Ah group 49 (H8) AGM. So that's what I would look for if you need to replace it. Just about everyone has some H8 AGM battery available. Old list I had made back when I was looking into a replacement - https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...1#post13263820

yeah that NY2 is what is throwing me off it list J0b then has the NY2 what does "extra battery capacity" mean why a separate code the J0b is already specifying a larger capacity than the normal.

Best part is went to audi parts online says battery no longer available, go to vw parts had it for 180$ said cool paid went to pick it up and they say yeah we dont have that and cant get it wtf???? why would you sell to me then after i show up say no cant get it.

[bb-tt]

I got the full set of PR codes from erWin for our '14 A4q VIN when we got the car in '17, which included code "NY2" (but not on the PR sticker), along with battery code "J0Z" (Battery 520 A (110 Ah)). No AGM spec indicated. So, the question here might be "battery capacity increased from what?" IDK. Seems to me the J0x code is more relevant when battery replacement is required.

yeah i was just wondering why the second code or what its significance was.

could probably charge and keep on going but 10 years is pretty good and pushing it for a battery

[Smac770]

There's six PR codes for the 8K batteries. H7 (94R) standard and AGM, H8 (49) standard and AGM, H9 (95R) standard and AGM. So NY2 means you're not H7, if we had to speculate an interpretation. Now, why not NY5 for the AGM versions? No idea. Just because PR codes exist does not mean that for a given platform/generation/product they utilize the full range of them. You have a PR code for the battery (J0B in my case) and the alternator (8GU in my case) which are more specific to your car parts than the NYx PR code. It's very possible the NYx code plays down into other part decisions elsewhere.

[bb-tt]

There's six PR codes for the 8K batteries. H7 (94R) standard and AGM, H8 (49) standard and AGM, H9 (95R) standard and AGM. So NY2 means you're not H7, if we had to speculate an interpretation. Now, why not NY5 for the AGM versions? No idea. Just because PR codes exist does not mean that for a given platform/generation/product they utilize the full range of them. You have a PR code for the battery (J0B in my case) and the alternator (8GU in my case) which are more specific to your car parts than the NYx PR code. It's very possible the NYx code plays down into other part decisions elsewhere.

yep we have exact same codes


92 8GU L GEN Alternator 140 A

[bb-tt]

FWIW i emailed AoA when i bought and they sent me the full list of pr codes for my car if you were wanting yours smac

[LmG7119]

Where do I find PR code on 2013 allroad? Where is the label located? I looked everywhere.

It seems wlamart has the best deal so far. EverStart Platinum AGM Automotive Battery, Group Size H8 / LN5 / 49 12 Volt, 900 CCA 150 RC for $179 with 4 years warranty.
"Note: PR-J1U, Battery is vented to outside of vehicle.; OE manufacturer used various size batteries in production. Verify Battery Size in Vehicle.; PR Codes denote factory installed options for the vehicle., Vehicle computer system must be reset, contact your service specialist, Battery Spec: H8 Group Size; 900 CCA; 1000 CA; 160 Minute Reserve Capacity; 4 Year Free Replacement"

[Smac770]

One gets put on at time of vehicle delivery (to buyer) inside the cover of the maintenance booklet. The other is put on during production at the factory; that's the one that's on the spare tire well, on the sheet metal. You'd have to pull the cargo floor and spare and subwoofer to likely be able to move that spare tire well liner enough to find it.

[LmG7119]

One gets put on at time of vehicle delivery (to buyer) inside the cover of the maintenance booklet. The other is put on during production at the factory; that's the one that's on the spare tire well, on the sheet metal. You'd have to pull the cargo floor and spare and subwoofer to likely be able to move that spare tire well liner enough to find it.

I found it in the booklet. My battery is JOB. My battery is an original from 2013 but car fires up just fine. Knock on wood. I think it is time to change it. It seems Walmart or Costco has the best pricing. I assume either will do.
I saw many posts by you and was just wondering. 1 digit change with VCDS anywhere in the S/N would do. Right?

[LmG7119]

One more thing. I have a battery tested based on the image in this thread I could use DIN = 520A or 860A with EN, but not with CCA

[Smac770]

J0B (that's zero, not o) is H8 AGM. Same as mine. My original is still on the shelf, replaced it three years ago (~13 years old) when I was hunting a charging system issue. But the battery itself is fine enough. I throw it on a charger every few months to maintain SoC.

Just get any H8 AGM, the minor variation of the CCA and Ah values is not significant. Walmart/Sams or Costco is likely going to be your best pricing. I went with a NAPA since it was close enough in price and available down the road (when I want to test something, I want to get it done, not "wait for delivery"). After installing the new battery, reset the date/time in the menu system, then update the adaptation value, changing the serial number.

Since it's still H8 AGM, you don't need to touch the p/n . Not sure which one they put in your much later build, maybe 000915105CE, mine was 4F0915105E. For the serial number, you could get cavalier and set it to YYMMDDxxxx where YYMMDD is from the date code on the battery and xxxx is whatever you want. For example, 180322NAPA. But I don't need that much accuracy to know my own car. I just changed a digit and carried on. The vendor code and serial number are for record purposes, not operational purposes.

[LmG7119]

"reset the date/time in the menu system" I have not seen this step. Why would you need to do this?

J0B (that's zero, not o) is H8 AGM. Same as mine. My original is still on the shelf, replaced it three years ago (~13 years old) when I was hunting a charging system issue. But the battery itself is fine enough. I throw it on a charger every few months to maintain SoC.

Just get any H8 AGM, the minor variation of the CCA and Ah values is not significant. Walmart/Sams or Costco is likely going to be your best pricing. I went with a NAPA since it was close enough in price and available down the road (when I want to test something, I want to get it done, not "wait for delivery"). After installing the new battery, reset the date/time in the menu system, then update the adaptation value, changing the serial number.

Since it's still H8 AGM, you don't need to touch the p/n . Not sure which one they put in your much later build, maybe 000915105CE, mine was 4F0915105E. For the serial number, you could get cavalier and set it to YYMMDDxxxx where YYMMDD is from the date code on the battery and xxxx is whatever you want. For example, 180322NAPA. But I don't need that much accuracy to know my own car. I just changed a digit and carried on. The vendor code and serial number are for record purposes, not operational purposes.

[LmG7119]

J0B (that's zero, not o) is H8 AGM. Same as mine. My original is still on the shelf, replaced it three years ago (~13 years old) when I was hunting a charging system issue. But the battery itself is fine enough. I throw it on a charger every few months to maintain SoC.

Just get any H8 AGM, the minor variation of the CCA and Ah values is not significant. Walmart/Sams or Costco is likely going to be your best pricing. I went with a NAPA since it was close enough in price and available down the road (when I want to test something, I want to get it done, not "wait for delivery"). After installing the new battery, reset the date/time in the menu system, then update the adaptation value, changing the serial number.

Since it's still H8 AGM, you don't need to touch the p/n . Not sure which one they put in your much later build, maybe 000915105CE, mine was 4F0915105E. For the serial number, you could get cavalier and set it to YYMMDDxxxx where YYMMDD is from the date code on the battery and xxxx is whatever you want. For example, 180322NAPA. But I don't need that much accuracy to know my own car. I just changed a digit and carried on. The vendor code and serial number are for record purposes, not operational purposes.

Is 860A a CCA on the label or EN/SAE/GS( this is what on my label next to my 860 A)?

[Smac770]

You want the history data log entries to be intelligible. They won't be if all the records have timestamps of 2008 or such.

860A would be a cranking amp rating, but to which standard? It would have to be posted there next to the value. https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technic...pecifications/ DIN rating will be a much smaller number than the others.

[LmG7119]

You want the history data log entries to be intelligible. They won't be if all the records have timestamps of 2008 or such.

860A would be a cranking amp rating, but to which standard? It would have to be posted there next to the value. https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technic...pecifications/ DIN rating will be a much smaller number than the others.

"reset the date/time in the menu system" Is this required even if the date time was no affected by the battery change?

It is nowhere on the label CCA is mentioned.

[Smac770]

If the date/time is correct, then the date/time does not need to be corrected. If the date/time is not correct, then correct the date/time before updating the battery adaptation value.

You already said the 860A is labeled EN/SAE/GS, so which CCA standard that value represents is already labeled. There's no need for CCA to actually be in the text.

[A4Qwattro]

This thread title

[Smac770]

Yeah, but I probably look more like LEGO batman than the Dark Knight.

[MongoMcG]

This thread title

There are a bunch of heroes on this forum that help cats like me every day, but Smac has a very particular set of skills...

[bb-tt]

This thread title

now that's funny

[bb-tt]

I found it in the booklet. My battery is JOB. My battery is an original from 2013 but car fires up just fine. Knock on wood. I think it is time to change it. It seems Walmart or Costco has the best pricing. I assume either will do.
I saw many posts by you and was just wondering. 1 digit change with VCDS anywhere in the S/N would do. Right?

so i got 10 years out of the Varta(it was still good but i was doing flashes on side of road and it was a little weak so didnt want to chance it) Smac got 13. I bought a battery for daughters jetta at AutoZone on a Sunday as she was going back to college it died with in 3 months, no worries took it back and got it replaced. the second one died with in a couple months went back to autozone and they f'd me and said oh you already used the warranty so you cant get another replacement said battery is supposed to have 36 month warranty and it hasnt even been 6 month since i purchased first one and they said too bad. went and got battery at vw it was like 100$ cheaper than autozone and has not had an issue in like 5 years. when i replaced the battery for the avant audi dealer was actually cheaper than everywhere else ( i know odd because some shit they are ridiculous but they were reasonable for the battery and based on the life i got out of the original i would have paid more)

[LmG7119]

Yeah, but I probably look more like LEGO batman than the Dark Knight.

Hey. Do you have by any chance a diagram of pins to measure resistance for upper and lower heating elements?
I found a seat from 2013 A4 with matching codes but the junkyard does not know if it is working or not. They said I can come out and measure it myself.

[Smac770]

The green plug on the bottom of the seat, measure across the two larger wires on 3 and 4. The two smaller wires on 1 and 2 are for the thermistor. I measure 1.8-2.2 Ω for the grid and 7.2-7.3 kΩ for the thermistor with the plug disconnected. The seat bottom grid and the seat back grid are in parallel. If you get a reading but higher, it's possible one of the two grids are out. If you get no reading, such as on my broken driver's side, then either both grids are broke, or the break is between the plug and the parallel junction point.

[LmG7119]

The green plug on the bottom of the seat, measure across the two larger wires on 3 and 4. The two smaller wires on 1 and 2 are for the thermistor. I measured 1.8-2.2 Ω for the grid and 7.2-7.3 kΩ for the thermistor with the plug disconnected. The seat bottom grid and the seat back grid are in parallel. If you get a reading but higher, it's possible one of the two grids are out. If you get no reading, such as on my broken driver's side, then either both grids are broke, or the break is between the plug and the parallel junction point.

SO I know my seat back does work(to be honest it gets very very hot on setting 1) but the bottom is lukewarm or maybe I think it is lukewarm because the back gets too hot. LOL
I assume I can disconnect the green plug without battery disconnect as long as I don't pull the yellow airbag plug. Right?

I can do this and compare it to my passenger seat. I believe that one is working. I'm a very visual person. You couldn't grab pictures, could you?


Thanks

[Smac770]

Don't touch the yellow plug.

Just disconnect the green plug, it's no big deal. It'll be curious what you measure for Ω if you have one of the two grids functional.

I'd have to go take the car back apart. Just move the seat up and back, remove the cover over the connector station (lift the front of it), disconnect the green plug, put the probes on the two wider pin slots.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...1#post13954781
Looks like access to the plug to the seat back grid is possible if you're Gumby. Forgotten about the current values in the measuring blocks.

If you can get the probes angled in to backprobe the connector still plugged in, that's fine too. Was just a lot easier to pull up the green plug and slot the probes in on the mating side.

[LmG7119]

Don't touch the yellow plug.

Just disconnect the green plug, it's no big deal. It'll be curious what you measure for Ω if you have one of the two grids functional.

I'd have to go take the car back apart. Just move the seat up and back, remove the cover over the connector station (lift the front of it), disconnect the green plug, put the probes on the two wider pin slots.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...1#post13954781
Looks like access to the plug to the seat back grid is possible if you're Gumby. Forgotten about the current values in the measuring blocks.

If you can get the probes angled in to backprobe the connector still plugged in, that's fine too. Was just a lot easier to pull up the green plug and slot the probes in on the mating side.

I do have VCDS. That would not help, wouldn't it? I will try to move the seat and measure the ohms.

[LmG7119]

Don't touch the yellow plug.

Just disconnect the green plug, it's no big deal. It'll be curious what you measure for Ω if you have one of the two grids functional.

I'd have to go take the car back apart. Just move the seat up and back, remove the cover over the connector station (lift the front of it), disconnect the green plug, put the probes on the two wider pin slots.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...1#post13954781
Looks like access to the plug to the seat back grid is possible if you're Gumby. Forgotten about the current values in the measuring blocks.

If you can get the probes angled in to backprobe the connector still plugged in, that's fine too. Was just a lot easier to pull up the green plug and slot the probes in on the mating side.

This is what mine looks like

Allroad_20240608_1.jpg

[Smac770]

Ok, but how is that going to help you with a junk yard inspection? You can't power up the car at a yard. The resistance measurement is something you can do here and there to compare. Your VCDS readings do imply something is wrong with the driver's side, be it either the bottom or back grid. From your knowing it's the seat grid that's out, it's clear the seat grid has a lower resistance, consumes more of the current, than the back grid. You'll probably read 1.8 Ω on the passenger side and around 5 Ω (just the seat back) on the driver's side. That would give us around 2.8 Ω for the seat bottom alone, to read 1.8 Ω overall (bottom and back in parallel).

[LmG7119]

Ok, but how is that going to help you with a junk yard inspection? You can't power up the car at a yard. The resistance measurement is something you can do here and there to compare. Your VCDS readings do imply something is wrong with the driver's side, be it either the bottom or back grid. From your knowing it's the seat grid that's out, it's clear the seat grid has a lower resistance, consumes more of the current, than the back grid. You'll probably read 1.8 Ω on the passenger side and around 5 Ω (just the seat back) on the driver's side. That would give us around 2.8 Ω for the seat bottom alone, to read 1.8 Ω overall (bottom and back in parallel).

That was just me quickly doing it. I'm still planning to measure Ohms and compare the driver and passenger sides. I also took a picture of what I think is a memory module to make sure it would look similar at junkyard's seat.

I know the back of the driver seat is working fine as it is evenly heating up. What was interesting was that the temperature of the driver's side was not going up at all. Which is strange. Don't you think?

[Smac770]

That's the idea that the seat bottom grid is broken. In my case, it's before the parallel connection to the seat back, so nothing works. In your case, it's after the parallel connection, so the path through the seat back is still good and still works.