DIY: C7(.5) A6/A7 3.0T Driver's Side Engine Mount notes

[PKmode]

While I saw there were some threads on the Passenger Side Engine Mount, I noticed there was no write-up on a DIY for a Driver’s Side Engine Mount for a C7(.5)A6/A7 3.0T.

While I didn’t take a bunch of pics, I did show a couple things of importance.

Basics:
If you are unfortunate enough as myself to have to do this on your back, jack up the car with enough room to work. Also, have the steering wheel generally centered.

Now you have two options. You can either drop the subframe which is what I chose to do, or you can remove the oil chiller but I can’t comment on that method.

In either case, you need to pull off the wheel well liners on each side at the fronts to access the mount (3) bolts. Tuck the liners behind your calipers to give you enough room to access both the bolts for the mount and subframe.
Remove the lower front splash guards from the fender liners as well as the front and center belly pan splash guards. Clips and torx bits.

Remove the cross brace under the engine, (8) 16 or 18mm hex bolts. IDR

Disconnect the engine mount sensor connections on each side so the mounts.

If you’re steering wheel was straight, you should see the triple square that holds the rack to column. Remove that screw.

I used an engine support bar to hold up the engine but before applying any real upward pressure, I removed the single, large triple square bolt that holds the mount to the engine. With that removed from each side, I put some lifting force on the engine via the support bar.


I then removed the (2) 16mm bolts from the passenger side, allowing for that mount to come free both the bracket and engine. Do the same for the driver’s side but you’ll note the one subframe bolt will need to be dropped way down to allow for access to the bolt head.

At this point, I placed a jack under the subframe for support and marked the subframe position. Then I loosened all the (8) 18mm subframe bolts and removed the one completely so I could pull the last 16mm bolt holding the engine mount to the bracket.


With the subframe loose, I lowered the jack a bit but I found I needed to wiggle the input shaft of the steering column and press up a bit to release the shaft. With that out, the subframe was ready to come down low enough to allow for room to get the mounts and brackets out and back in.

Next I disconnected the bracket on each side. To do this there is a pair of triple square head bolts holding the base of the bracket to the subframe. I did the passenger side first and removed the bracket then mount out the front. You can do this side without lowering the subframe but with the extra room, it drops right out.



Place the new mount up in there and get the bracket back in. Then seat the mount back in the bracket. Reattach the bracket and then the two 16mm bolts that hold the mount. Leave the large triple square for now until the engine is lowered.

Now for the driver’s side, if you lowered the subframe enough, you’ll see you’ll have access to the bracket bolts on that side. If not, the oil chiller will be in the way. Lower the subframe enough to gain access. Both the bracket and mount free and are almost ready to come out.

At this point, I removed the two 10mm bolts in the rear of the driver’s side wheel well around the steering rack. I bent the heatshield slightly and rotated it up and out of the way. Now I could remove the bracket and mount out of this opening. I will say, to get the mount out I really had the subframe bolts on the last threads and the rear two on that side out.
Here is a clip showing the orientation and condition when I removed it.

https://flic.kr/p/2kY2Qfd

If you got this far, reverse the order and torque to factory specs. Tighten the four at the front first to pull up the subframe then the rears. Remember to re align the steering column shaft and get it seated before you lift the subframe all the way back up. Make sure to get the subframe aligned to the same spot before torqueing. Use a pry bar to adjust the subframe if needed. Mine moved a bit and I’m going to get an alignment soon anyway.

Torque specs were listed on the 034 guide for the S4/S5 install guide.

I hope that helps someone else out as I had to ask a few questions to a friend who did the job. Sorry my car is filthy. Road construction on my road for 6 weeks with three black cars is a nightmare.

[Valpo A7]

Driver side.JPG

A7 specs attached

[eurospek]

Good stuff. Thanks for sharing and posting. Definitely bookmarked.

[JetC7]

Tackled this today. Thank you. Only thing I had that was different was actually prying the subframe on the drivers side after removing all (8) 18mm hex bolts to make more room to wiggle out the mount. Other than that pretty good write up. Also the steering column. You said to wiggle & push up... Anybody having trouble just wiggle & push the steering column up the direction towards the steering wheel & itll pop up.

If you live in a marijuana free state I’d suggest 3 blunts. If not 5 beers to take up of this task. Very doable though took me approx 6hrs .. 2 were me wasting time

B37BDB73-8319-401B-B209-B8272E20F2A9.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[WowAudi]

A7 C7.5
Did both sides this weekend and didn't have to miss with the subframe. I jacked up the front and didn't use a engine support. I used a 3 ton jack and a 2x4 on the oil pan to push up the engine. I removed both side motor mount by pulling them out towards the radiator. It's tricky but it only took 15minutes each side. The trick is you need to jackup the engine a good amount so you can get the motor mounts past the pass side alternator and driver side starter. I hope this helps. I wish I had taken some pictures but I didn't have time as I needed to be somewhere.

[Jonathan177]

Wow audi can you elaborate a little more, I would like to tackle this job my self this weekend

[Jonathan177]

Before you jacked up the engine did you remove any bolts

[Jonathan177]

I just tackled this job yesterday, what a pain the ass for the drivers side, but couldn't of done it without you guys in this thread. Thank you

[Audibot]

Tackling my mounts (again) on my TDI and this time using the engine support bar. What did you use to connect the chain to the lift points?

[Botbasher]

Tackling my mounts (again) on my TDI and this time using the engine support bar. What did you use to connect the chain to the lift points?

Depends on the version you get. Mine (Amazon) has screws long enough and hooks solid enough to grab the lift points on both my S6 4.0 and my kiddos A3 2.0 without even stressing. I used the supplied chains as a safety instead of a primary lifting tool. Just a couple of bolts with oversized washers did it nicely!

For those wondering if they should buy one... I've done the jack and 2x4 method for decades now... but after using the bar, I'll never go back! Not having jacks under the motor where you inevitably bang your head on it, or need to reposition it to access some random bolt was awesome. Being able to tilt and shift the motor slightly to mate up the bell housing on my kiddos clutch job made it so much easier and the fact that it stayed EXACTLY where you put it, not wobbling on top of a stack of 2x4s was much less stressful!

Do you have to have it. Nope. Done far larger jobs without it for years. But as I get older and find myself less willing to lay under a car all weekend... this tool made it so much easier and is a welcomed addition to the garage!

Cheers,

KS

[Audibot]

Thanks!

I grabbed some quick clips at Lowe's for like $12 for 6. Each has ~600 lbs rating, so more than strong enough. I didn't think to use the hooks directly on the lifting points but can consider that next time. I clipped all 4 lift points to the chains and it lifted just fine.