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  1. #1
    Senior Member Two Rings rabbitdog's Avatar
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    Aug 03 2018
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    Stuck front brake caliper bolt /nut on RS7

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    I tried removing my front brake caliper today to replace my front rotors but already hit resistance as one bolt looks like is stuck.

    I managed to get the bottom one off but the top bolt which is just beside the brake fluid hose won’t budge even after using penetrating oil and heating up with a torch.

    Examining the other bolt that came out it looks like there was some sort of thread lock or anti seize used which is stuck in the threads.

    I saw some recommendations to use a breaker bar to open stuck caliper bolts but I don’t have enough wiggle room with floor stand and also limited turning radius. I am guessing will probably need to lift the car off the ground to use the breaker bar.

    Should I just give in and bring it to a shop /Audi dealership or is there something else I can try?
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    Last edited by rabbitdog; 03-28-2021 at 05:44 PM.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings Alabama's Avatar
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    Apr 19 2020
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    My Garage
    C7 S6
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    If you can, post a picture indicating the bolt of concern. In other threads some caliper bolts are not intended to be removed; folk should be sure before they advise you to remove the wrong bolt.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Two Rings rabbitdog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alabama View Post
    If you can, post a picture indicating the bolt of concern. In other threads some caliper bolts are not intended to be removed; folk should be sure before they advise you to remove the wrong bolt.
    Posted the pic of the bolt in the OP.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings gk1's Avatar
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    Aug 06 2014
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    271504
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    NJ->CO

    Turn the wheel to get better access to the bolts with a breaker bar.
    FWIW you are supposed to clean the underside of the washer with a wire bush/wheel. There are ridges there that should be clean. You should NOT use locktite on those bolts.
    If you don't go for new bolts be sure to clean off all the locktite and run a thread chaser through to make sure it is all clean.
    As usual ECS has great photos. You can see the ridges.
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  5. #5
    Senior Member Two Rings rabbitdog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gk1 View Post
    Turn the wheel to get better access to the bolts with a breaker bar.
    FWIW you are supposed to clean the underside of the washer with a wire bush/wheel. There are ridges there that should be clean. You should NOT use locktite on those bolts.
    If you don't go for new bolts be sure to clean off all the locktite and run a thread chaser through to make sure it is all clean.
    As usual ECS has great photos. You can see the ridges.
    Yeap I see this ridges on the bolt I got out, I have new ones to replace but just couldn’t get the too bolt near the hose out. Cleaned wire brush brake clean everything.
    This cars rotors are original from factory made in 2013, There definitely is some sort of material stuck in the thread.

    It wasn’t a problem for the bottom bolt, it loosened after a few bangs with the hammer. I turned the wheel as much as I could , but they only give me so much room. Very tight space from the side or top with risk of damaging the hose, can fit the long breaker bar I have in the wheel well.
    I believe if I had access from the bottom I would have been able to get at least room to use the breaker bar.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Three Rings John_Kaufmann's Avatar
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    Dec 29 2017
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    411762
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    North Central Illinois

    I just did brakes on my 2015. Needed all of my Milwaukee Fuel 18 impact wrench to get the bottom one. They are torqued at the factory to about 150 ft lbs. I had room for the impact gun and socket on both bolts. Perhaps you can get at it with an extension.

    The torch should have melted the threadlocker if any.

    Leverage (breaker bar) and some extentions or a wobble socket might be needed. It's just tough with the clearance you have to work with.

    Good excuse to buy a new toy Milwaukee Fuel M18 Impact Wrench...

    The bolts on my Ram are at 210 ft lbs..... Yeah that take some grunt.




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    Last edited by John_Kaufmann; 03-28-2021 at 07:08 PM.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Valpo A7's Avatar
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    Nov 27 2018
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    2018 Jeep Wrangler JLU; 2015 Mas Ghibli SQ4; 2005 Gulfstream Motorhome
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    My A7 has the same setup and yeah those bolts are no fun. I have typically only needed my breaker bar to break them free. I have had many cars with the same setup with those 2 PITA bolts. I have never torqued them going back together nor have I ever replaced the bolts on any car. If you can turn the wheel enough to get an impact wrench in there that works for busting them loose as well.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Mar 30 2018
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    long island

    IIRC, both the brake carrier and the hub are threaded. for removal purposes, this is bad by design.
    any small tolerance differences between the 2 threaded parts; expansion, debris, corrosion...will cause the threaded parts to not be a perfect match and pretty much lock the bolt in place.

    great to keep a bolt tight, terrible for replacement.

    Just my opinion, but they should have had a clearhole in the carrier, raised the bolt torque requirement and maybe a little blue locktite. this could have all been avoided.
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  9. #9
    Senior Member Three Rings John_Kaufmann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by daytona rs7 View Post
    IIRC, both the brake carrier and the hub are threaded. for removal purposes, this is bad by design.
    any small tolerance differences between the 2 threaded parts; expansion, debris, corrosion...will cause the threaded parts to not be a perfect match and pretty much lock the bolt in place.

    great to keep a bolt tight, terrible for replacement.

    Just my opinion, but they should have had a clearhole in the carrier, raised the bolt torque requirement and maybe a little blue locktite. this could have all been avoided.
    Yeah especially on a brake component that goes through heat cycles etc. For what it's worth my 2015 did have smooth holes on the hub but threaded on the bracket.



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  10. #10
    Senior Member Two Rings rabbitdog's Avatar
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    Managed to break open the nut with extension sockets and a breaker bar.
    Also spent $300 on a new compressor and air wrench but that didn’t help much. Well at least I got better tools for tire swaps.
    IMG_8387.JPG

  11. #11
    Senior Member Three Rings John_Kaufmann's Avatar
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    North Central Illinois

    Atta boy!!!!! Just had to get uncomfortably aggressive with it! Might wat to replace that crust ol bastard. Ornitni with a wire wheel..

    That compressor will come in handy for countless jobs.

    Filling tires
    Blowing dust out of the garage
    Get an air ratchet

    You'll need a big CFM unit to run and impact wrench. Electric is really the way to go these days for impact guns.

    Glad you got it out. Enjoy the new brakes.

    And remember....


  12. #12
    Senior Member Two Rings rabbitdog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_Kaufmann View Post
    Atta boy!!!!! Just had to get uncomfortably aggressive with it! Might wat to replace that crust ol bastard. Ornitni with a wire wheel..

    That compressor will come in handy for countless jobs.

    Filling tires
    Blowing dust out of the garage
    Get an air ratchet

    You'll need a big CFM unit to run and impact wrench. Electric is really the way to go these days for impact guns.

    Glad you got it out. Enjoy the new brakes.

    And remember....

    Thanks for all your suggestions.
    It looked like the previous owner took this car on the beach or something cause there was like sand and debris everywhere, and cemented into the crevices where the bolts go. The rear brakes was also a headache to remove.

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