Steering rack replacement questions

[fabric8]

The steering rack on my 2002 1.8TQM Avant with 172k has a slow leak, and even with draining all the fluid and running it with stop leak for 2 months, it continues to drip.

My local pic-n-pull has an 2002 A4 1.8tqm sedan is about identical to mine and its rack looks immaculate and I can get it for $33. I'm preferable to installing a used genuine Audi rack than taking a chance with a remanufactured one. The whole car actually looks like it was well maintained with all 4 corners in tact.

The steering wheel is not centered though and it's locked by the ignition.

I know that when a new or rebuilt rack is shipped, it is centered and locked with a screw that you're supposed to remove right before installation, paying attention to keeping it centered.

Questions:

1. On the diner vehicle, after I disconnect the steering column from the rack, should I try and center the rack by turning one of the front wheels and eyeballing center? Is this even necessary during removal? Otherwise, is there a good way to make sure the rack is centered once its removed from the vehicle?

2. What size screw/bolt do I need to install on the rack to lock it in place once it is centered?

3. Before installing the replacement rack, should I drain all the stop leak from my power steering reservoir and try and flush the line that feeds the rack by filling the reservoir with new fluid and keeping it topped off while the car is running and let the disconnected line that goes to the rack drain into a bucket?

Is there anything else i should to consider before removing the rack from the doner vehicle and installing it onto mine?

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[shurur9]

As far a centering the rack goes..you see how many turns it is from end to end and center it off that. The thing is to lock your steering wheel near center, remembering whether it locked to the left or right, before you yank the old rack out.

I don't remember it being anything bigger than that.

When you get the rack in and unlock the steering wheel to line it up, tie the steering wheel with a rope at the bottom of the wheel to the seat bracket to give the steering wheel slack and still keep it centered, while you get the steering shaft and rack connected. You don't want to f up the clockspring.

Lots of vids for our cars on youtube and pelican

Also I found it easier to pull the dreaded pinch bolt in order to get the spindle/wishbone out of the way when you hook the steering lines to the rack. But it is a vague memory...

Not sure about swapping old fluid for new. Just don't let the pump run dry. Guess you could tap it (bring in new fluid and watch old fluid out) where it leaves the rack and goes in to the reservoir....off the steering cooler coil. There was a video of doing this on youtube with a jug in front of the windshield so they could watch it.

The whole process was a bitch.

[jlernest]

Biggest pain of a job ive ever done. I would rather do the timing again.

[Cybersombosis]

When you are at the junker, make sure to have a 10mm 12pt socket to undo the three bolts holding the rack down to the firewall tunnel.

[Protection]

Biggest pain of a job ive ever done. I would rather do the timing again.

I have to agree. I would rather pull the motor than replace the steering rack again. The frustration level is high.


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[fabric8]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I just replaced my control arms 2 weeks ago and luckily had no problems removing my pinch bolts (Nevada car). The pinch bolts on the donor car were clean too.

I'm going to order the 12pt sockets this week since that's the only tools for this job that I do not have. Then will head over next weekend to pull the rack from the donor A4.

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[Kevin C]

I did mine when I did mine when I did my control arms so nothing was in the way. On the 1.8T I didn't think it was all that bad a job. As far as centering the rack, I didn't. I set the tie rods to equal lengths, used a tape measure to set the toe and let the alignment shop get it centered. That's what I remember. Getting the lines on was annoying. I'm doing an engine swap on my 1.8T and its a lot more work than the rack swap.

[Turbo510]

There would be no reason to try centering the donor car's rack before removal, it won't make any difference how it comes out.

When you buy a new or factory rebuilt rack, it comes with a plastic centering screw installed. It must be intended to shear off if not removed, but if you don't have the plastic one, then use an appropriate steel screw (sorry, don't know the size; looked like 8mm x 1.25mm thread) with a point ground on the end. The rack has a centering dimple for the screw point to fit into, holding the rack absolutely centered while the tie rods are adjusted and the steering coupling attached. After that, the centering bolt comes out!

Getting the rack itself out and back in was easy, but on the 3.0 the hose connections are terribly hard to reach. The center bolt is also impossible, so I gave up and took my chances that two will do the job. Be glad it's a 1.8T.

I would go ahead and drain the reservoir, and perhaps leave the draining hose disconnected while your work the steering back and forth the purge air and old flluid.

[fabric8]

if you don't have the plastic one, then use an appropriate steel screw (sorry, don't know the size; looked like 8mm x 1.25mm thread) with a point ground on the end. The rack has a centering dimple for the screw point to fit into, holding the rack absolutely centered while the tie rods are adjusted and the steering coupling attached. After that, the centering bolt comes out!

This is excellent information! My wife bought me a bench grinder for my bday last month so it'll be a perfect way to break it in and grind a tip on a bolt.

I would go ahead and drain the reservoir, and perhaps leave the draining hose disconnected while your work the steering back and forth the purge air and old flluid.

This is what I'll do.

Thank you! Yes I'm glad I have a 1.8t for a number of reasons.

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[fabric8]

I did mine when I did mine when I did my control arms so nothing was in the way. On the 1.8T I didn't think it was all that bad a job. As far as centering the rack, I didn't. I set the tie rods to equal lengths, used a tape measure to set the toe and let the alignment shop get it centered. That's what I remember. Getting the lines on was annoying. I'm doing an engine swap on my 1.8T and its a lot more work than the rack swap.

Thanks for the feedback! I'm really looking forward to taking this job on, as crazy as that sounds lol.

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[Protection]

Thanks for the feedback! I'm really looking forward to taking this job on, as crazy as that sounds lol.

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Masochist! . I think my biggest issues were getting the new steering rack into the tiny space where it lives, and getting the banjo bolts for the lines started.


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[john_gonzo]

I'm really looking forward to taking this job on, as crazy as that sounds lol.

Replaced rack in a non-Audi. Getting the hydraulic line fittings started in the rack was MUCH easier with the rack not bolted in place. The extra inch or so of room was essential.

Good luck you sick bastard.

[fabric8]

love the replies. I willingly offered to replace the starter on my bro-in-law's B7 RS4 a few weeks ago. That took about 8 hrs. The bolts holding the engine mount (which blocks access to the starter) were tougher to get to than anything I've worked on.

That's one job I never one to do again. The steering rack on the 1.8t seems so much easier. We'll see by next week i guess.

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[Kevin C]

True story.... The shaft on the input of the rack has a flat on it so you do not have to index the steering wheel to it. As long as the rack is kind of close to centered and the wheel is straight ahead, your good. I'm going out on a limb here.... You should be able to tell if your off a full turn.

[Cybersombosis]

Definitely have a second set of hands helping you when inserting the rack and guiding it through the tunnel. Also helpful is having them hold the bolts for the banjos fittings from the wheel well as you start them from in the car. IIRC the washers will want to fall off and you will be swearing when they drop. We used a big box end wrench(s) for the banjos through the access hole from the cab.

[krazeedrivr]

Just a thought on the rack replacement, but take it for what its worth. Its a good suggestion to replace the high pressure line when replacing the rack. The reason racks leak is that the fluid becomes contaminated with particulates from deteriorating parts like the rubber inside the lines, swarf from compressors, etc. If your rack is leaking, enough junk has gotten into the seals to destroy them, and just a flush of the system won't resolve a deteriorating high pressure line. If you say the donor car rack looks pristine, and you don't want to buy a new line, you might try to also harvest its high pressure line as well. Did my 1.8T FWD a year ago, and did a new HP line. It really was as frustrating as people are saying, and I have a MaxJax.

[fabric8]

Ok. Good advice on taking the high pressure line. Wonder if I should just take the steering pump and return line as well so I have the complete set from the donor.

Sounds like installing the rack is really a handful huh, and preferably a 2-man job? I'll probably have my bro-in-law help me out then for the install.

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[fabric8]

True story.... The shaft on the input of the rack has a flat on it so you do not have to index the steering wheel to it. As long as the rack is kind of close to centered and the wheel is straight ahead, your good. I'm going out on a limb here.... You should be able to tell if your off a full turn.

Good to know! I thought it was splined. But if it has a flat as you say, then you're right and centering it *should* be obvious.

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[fabric8]

Definitely have a second set of hands helping you when inserting the rack and guiding it through the tunnel. Also helpful is having them hold the bolts for the banjos fittings from the wheel well as you start them from in the car. IIRC the washers will want to fall off and you will be swearing when they drop. We used a big box end wrench(s) for the banjos through the access hole from the cab.

I didn't realize accessing the banjo bolts is done from inside the cabin. I thought it was done from either under the car or the driver's side tunnel opening.

I do have a quick Jack so that helps me get the car up high.

The donor car at the yard is up high on welded steel wheels and I can easily see the 10pt bolts. The wheels are already off and all the control arm bolts, pinch bolts, and strut bolts are rust free so I'm hoping the suspension comes off quickly to give me better access to pulling the rack out.

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[APC123]

The banjo bolts can be accessed from the wheel well. You may want to keep the rack disconnected while you tighten/loosen them. That is what I did. It gives you some more working room

[Turbo510]

One more tip, from changing the HP hose on a Passat: Pre-assemble the banjo bolt with washers on the hose end, using a rubber band to keep them together. This will leave enough threads protruding past the rubber band to get the bolt started, at which point you take a piece of wire (coat hanger type works) with a small hook at the end. Grab the rubber band with the hook and pull until it flings off. Snug the bolt the rest of the way.

By the way, I have a habit of re-using copper "crush" washers if I haven't gotten new ones. I typically smooth them on both sides so old marks are erased, then using a Propane torch, heat them until they turn a reddish color. This returns them to a soft annealed condition, and I've never had one leak.

[EuroxS4]

Factory racks were made by Koyo. IIRC there is rebuild kit on the market to rebuild and change all the seals in these racks now. I would flush all the lines as most of the time stop leak just swells the seals and doesnt stop the leak but makes it piss even more. The 1 banjo bolt is a bitch to get started. Other than that piece of cake. Center the wheel and disconnect. Easy job just make sure you change crush washers for the lines and flush all the lines.

[fabric8]

Anyone happen to have the part numbers for the crush washers needed?

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[Kevin C]

Anyone happen to have the part numbers for the crush washers needed?

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https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...each/n0138487/

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-crp-part.../n0138495~crp/

[fabric8]

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...each/n0138487/

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-crp-part.../n0138495~crp/

Thanks!

Factory racks were made by Koyo. IIRC there is rebuild kit on the market to rebuild and change all the seals in these racks now. I would flush all the lines as most of the time stop leak just swells the seals and doesnt stop the leak but makes it piss even more. The 1 banjo bolt is a bitch to get started. Other than that piece of cake. Center the wheel and disconnect. Easy job just make sure you change crush washers for the lines and flush all the lines.

This is an interesting alternative. I don't need the car and can afford some downtime while I rebuild the rack myself. Although I've never rebuilt a steering rack. Would you have any information for rebuilding these racks? Any special tools needed? I found an eBay seller listing a rebuild kit click here

[EuroxS4]

Thanks!



This is an interesting alternative. I don't need the car and can afford some downtime while I rebuild the rack myself. Although I've never rebuilt a steering rack. Would you have any information for rebuilding these racks? Any special tools needed? I found an eBay seller listing a rebuild kit click here

This video has all the info you need:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRdLsdymNP0

[fabric8]

Excellent thank you!!!

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[Kevin C]

Or buy a S4 rack on Ebay and rebuild it off line for a no pressure repair and upgrade.

[wafi ahmed]

I have same issue and I my steering feels kinda weird now days, I was thinking about ordering one from rack doctor as they sell rebuilt oem racks


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[Spike00513]

rackdoctor has like 8 models to pick from
too many
Koyo vs ZF probably doesn't matter
many car companies run both for many miles without issue

why don't you just take the rack
hold it vertical
then push down on the tie rods until you see the centering bolt hole divot visible through the access port
and then shove a bolt in there that fits
nobody here is gonna know off the top of their head if that's an M8 or an M10. It's not hard to find a bolt.
I bet a repair manual would say
that most do not have, and do not use, even though they are free

if you don't already have a collection of random bolts
hardware stores have them
there are also tools to check bolt thread dimensions

this seems like a great strategy
replacing a failed rack
with another rack that is 20 years old

I personally would learn and figure out how to rebuild a rack myself
but in terms of a brand new fresh $1 o-ring,
I guess some people prefer an O-ring that is 20 years old
why buy a new bag of lime hot cheetos from wal-mart for $2.50
when you can eat from a bag that has been left open on the counter for 20 years

[wafi ahmed]

Does 2003 a4 1.8t Quattro have servotronic?


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[Kevin C]

The 2003 A4 did not have Servotronic, it can be retrofitted. I did mine 3 1/2 years ago with a used RS4 rack that I bought on Ebay for about $100. Nice think is S4 and RS$ part tend to have less wear and miles on them since the motors don't last as long. One of my favorite mods.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...th-Servotronic

[fabric8]

rackdoctor has like 8 models to pick from
too many
Koyo vs ZF probably doesn't matter
many car companies run both for many miles without issue

why don't you just take the rack
hold it vertical
then push down on the tie rods until you see the centering bolt hole divot visible through the access port
and then shove a bolt in there that fits
nobody here is gonna know off the top of their head if that's an M8 or an M10. It's not hard to find a bolt.
I bet a repair manual would say
that most do not have, and do not use, even though they are free

if you don't already have a collection of random bolts
hardware stores have them
there are also tools to check bolt thread dimensions

this seems like a great strategy
replacing a failed rack
with another rack that is 20 years old

I personally would learn and figure out how to rebuild a rack myself
but in terms of a brand new fresh $1 o-ring,
I guess some people prefer an O-ring that is 20 years old
why buy a new bag of lime hot cheetos from wal-mart for $2.50
when you can eat from a bag that has been left open on the counter for 20 years

Lol, good points on your response. Since the 20yr old rack would only cost me $33 (and my time and labor to pull it from the car), I figure it's worth a try.

But you're right, even though there are no signs of a leak, it could leak once I put it into service on my car. If it doesn't leak, I come out ahead.

If it does leak, then I can attempt to rebuild my rack I've pulled out, while I continue to run that one, then swap it one last time. It would be more labor overall this way.

Still debating on how I want to accomplish this.

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