2.0T Build tips for reliability

[quattrofrings]

Hey! I've got my hands on 2006 B7 with 2.0T engine.

I know it has some flaws and i'd like to get to hear what are the biggest conserns with this engine and how can i prevent them, or should i just keep an eye out for a good 1.8t.

I've already ordered new:
Cam follower (INA)
PCV (OEM)
The car has had the timing chain and tensioner done in 2016
The timing belt and water pump has been done this year

I know the oil pump is a issue aswell and i've got my eye on the wasa or vis balance shaft delete free wheel.

Also would get new pick up tube aswell

Will this remove the worry for getting a low oil pressure light?

The car has nearly 170 000 miles and has a spotless oil change history since new.

Thanks in advance, just want an reliable daily with decent power.

Plan is to go stage 1 or 2 with basically all the bolt ons, if i can just get a peace of mind with this engine

Lähetetty minun SM-G973F laitteesta Tapatalkilla

[Theiceman]

you will never have peace of mind with a 2.0T engine.

its an iron block with plastic pieces bolted on to it. that in itself should be enough info to let you know the best it will be is moderately reliable if you replace them all, until you have to replace the all again.

Build and have fun with it, just dont expect it to last a long time without issues.

[quattrofrings]

you will never have peace of mind with a 2.0T engine.

its an iron block with plastic pieces bolted on to it. that in itself should be enough info to let you know the best it will be is moderately reliable if you replace them all, until you have to replace the all again.

Build and have fun with it, just dont expect it to last a long time without issues.

Thanks for the answer, so simply: Buy a 1.8T and be happy?

My first plan was to get a 1.8t, I've already got forge dv, intake and turbo for 1.8t, but then i found this one for a great deal so i had to buy it.

Lähetetty minun SM-G973F laitteesta Tapatalkilla

[Jeevan]

Here are all the things I have replaced in 2 years after I bought mine in Auction.

I am OCD. Some parts here were not needed but I replaced to be safe.

Failed parts:

Coolant flange, Heater core, 1 HVAC control motor that controls air inflow from outside, headlight ballast, HPFP and follower, Ignition coils, Oil filter housing, heater core hoses, carbon clean, Vaccum pump rebuild, should I replaced turbo too but ended up fixing it by tightening waste gate arm(40k after miles still working great tho), N205, N80, Camshaft sensor, Engine oil cap, Fuel level sensor.

Maintenance parts:
Timing belt with water pump, timing chain for cams, Breaks and fluid change,Transmission and differential fluids change, tires, upper control arms, Shocks, Valve cover gaskets, tie rods set, couple tail light bulbs, Wiper blades, Battery, fuel air and cabin filters twice, oil changes every 5k miles

What still broken? FUEL LEVEL DOESNT WORK( didn't find it important for now)

What should you expect to change if you buy B7 right of the bet?

Cam follower and HPFP, timing belt(most people doesn't change so you have to), upper control arms, coolant flange and Vaccum pump


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Jeevan]

I wouldn't bat my eyes on 1.8T as it as bad as B7 2.0T. Sometimes it may feel like grass is greener on neighbors lawn but it's not true always. Again it's just my opinion.

[quattrofrings]

Here are all the things I have replaced in 2 years after I bought mine in Auction.

I am OCD. Some parts here were not needed but I replaced to be safe.

Failed parts:

Coolant flange, Heater core, 1 HVAC control motor that controls air inflow from outside, headlight ballast, HPFP and follower, Ignition coils, Oil filter housing, heater core hoses, carbon clean, Vaccum pump rebuild, should I replaced turbo too but ended up fixing it by tightening waste gate arm(40k after miles still working great tho), N205, N80, Camshaft sensor, Engine oil cap, Fuel level sensor.

Maintenance parts:
Timing belt with water pump, timing chain for cams, Breaks and fluid change,Transmission and differential fluids change, tires, upper control arms, Shocks, Valve cover gaskets, tie rods set, couple tail light bulbs, Wiper blades, Battery, fuel air and cabin filters twice, oil changes every 5k miles

What still broken? FUEL LEVEL DOESNT WORK( didn't find it important for now)

What should you expect to change if you buy B7 right of the bet?

Cam follower and HPFP, timing belt(most people doesn't change so you have to), upper control arms, coolant flange and Vaccum pump


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

That's a great answer, ocd aswell so i always have to have things on point..

Forgot to mention i've already ordered a vac pump rebuild kit as the common nipple is making hammeting noises lol.

That's a long list but again, these are old cars. I'm mostly conserned about issues inside the engine, like the oil pump etc..
Happen to know if i should be safe after the freewheel install?

These are known for low oil pressure issues aswell, wonder if the freewheel will reduce this.

Lähetetty minun SM-G973F laitteesta Tapatalkilla

[quattrofrings]

I wouldn't bat my eyes on 1.8T as it as bad as B7 2.0T. Sometimes it may feel like grass is greener on neighbors lawn but it's not true always. Again it's just my opinion.

I've never had engine related issues with a 1.8t (internal) unlike to the 2.0t, mostly conserned about engine rrlated issues like low oil pressure, oil pump seizing etc..

Happen to know if i should be clear after doing the freewheel install?

Lähetetty minun SM-G973F laitteesta Tapatalkilla

[Jeevan]

That's a great answer, ocd aswell so i always have to have things on point..

Forgot to mention i've already ordered a vac pump rebuild kit as the common nipple is making hammeting noises lol.

That's a long list but again, these are old cars. I'm mostly conserned about issues inside the engine, like the oil pump etc..
Happen to know if i should be safe after the freewheel install?

These are known for low oil pressure issues aswell, wonder if the freewheel will reduce this.

Lähetetty minun SM-G973F laitteesta Tapatalkilla

If your car has regular oil changes and never had a hole in cam follower, Automatic transmission and you never rev past 5k RPM- Oil pump shouldnt be a concern upto 200-250k miles.

I wanted to swap with free wheel too but I thought- What if if pressure relief valve inside balance shaft housing fails? 200$ for a fucking Bicycle freewheel didn't make sense to me.

I am going 1 extra step this summer and deleted balance shaft from the housing( cut the balance shafts, plug few holes that oil balance shaft bearings to avoid leaking oil pressure, replace pickup tube with new version and call it good.

[quattrofrings]

If your car has regular oil changes and never had a hole in cam follower, Automatic transmission and you never rev past 5k RPM- Oil pump shouldnt be a concern upto 200-250k miles.

I wanted to swap with free wheel too but I thought- What if if pressure relief valve inside balance shaft housing fails? 200$ for a fucking Bicycle freewheel didn't make sense to me.

I am going 1 extra step this summer and deleted balance shaft from the housing( cut the balance shafts, plug few holes that oil balance shaft bearings to avoid leaking oil pressure, replace pickup tube with new version and call it good.

Yes, regular oil changes but no history of cam follower etc.

Mine's a manual transmission, and we have winters with snow so most likely it has had a few minutes above the 5k rmps most likely in it's lifetime

Lähetetty minun SM-G973F laitteesta Tapatalkilla

[Theiceman]

Thanks for the answer, so simply: Buy a 1.8T and be happy?

My first plan was to get a 1.8t, I've already got forge dv, intake and turbo for 1.8t, but then i found this one for a great deal so i had to buy it.

Lähetetty minun SM-G973F laitteesta Tapatalkilla

To be honest I've never had a 1.8t so can't compare them. Just making sure your eyes are wide open when it comes to the e113 engine.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app

[quattrofrings]

To be honest I've never had a 1.8t so can't compare them. Just making sure your eyes are wide open when it comes to the e113 engine.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app

For me, always 1.8T and never had issues with the engines itself.

Heard a lot of horror stories qith these engines and trying to find if there's a way to make the engine itself reliable.

Would start with the oil pump freewheel and if anyone has other good info would appreciate that.

Lähetetty minun SM-G973F laitteesta Tapatalkilla

[Jeevan]

For me, always 1.8T and never had issues with the engines itself.

Heard a lot of horror stories qith these engines and trying to find if there's a way to make the engine itself reliable.

Would start with the oil pump freewheel and if anyone has other good info would appreciate that.

Lähetetty minun SM-G973F laitteesta Tapatalkilla

https://youtu.be/FjizGTDjex8


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[quattrofrings]

https://youtu.be/FjizGTDjex8


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

Happen to know if there's any other major things tp do to prevent engine failure?

Lähetetty minun SM-G973F laitteesta Tapatalkilla

[Theiceman]

The only engine ending things I know of on these engines is oil pump/ balance shaft, timing belt, and chain tensioner. The rest is just pain in the ass annoyances.
I guess you could put hpfp tappet in a dirivative kind of way, but mine didn't cause any other issues..

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app

[Brillo]

For me, always 1.8T and never had issues with the engines itself.

Heard a lot of horror stories qith these engines and trying to find if there's a way to make the engine itself reliable.

Would start with the oil pump freewheel and if anyone has other good info would appreciate that.

Lähetetty minun SM-G973F laitteesta Tapatalkilla

While you are installing the freewheel make sure the balance shaft bearings are tight even though they won't be rotating. Also consider the WASA oil pump pressure relief valve to replace the OEM one which has been known to stick open causing low oil pressure (due to high bypass flow back to sump). Jeevan already mentioned it but second the replacement of oil filter housing with new OEM. It's one of those plastic components things the Theiceman mentioned.

[quattrofrings]

While you are installing the freewheel make sure the balance shaft bearings are tight even though they won't be rotating. Also consider the WASA oil pump pressure relief valve to replace the OEM one which has been known to stick open causing low oil pressure (due to high bypass flow back to sump). Jeevan already mentioned it but second the replacement of oil filter housing with new OEM. It's one of those plastic components things the Theiceman mentioned.

That's a new thing to me, will def look in to it. Thanks

Lähetetty minun SM-G973F laitteesta Tapatalkilla

[quattrofrings]

The only engine ending things I know of on these engines is oil pump/ balance shaft, timing belt, and chain tensioner. The rest is just pain in the ass annoyances.
I guess you could put hpfp tappet in a dirivative kind of way, but mine didn't cause any other issues..

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app

Got it, thanks for the info

Lähetetty minun SM-G973F laitteesta Tapatalkilla

[Charles.waite]

Thanks for the answer, so simply: Buy a 1.8T and be happy?

My first plan was to get a 1.8t, I've already got forge dv, intake and turbo for 1.8t, but then i found this one for a great deal so i had to buy it.

Lähetetty minun SM-G973F laitteesta Tapatalkilla

A 1.8t isn't better, its just different.

The absolutely critical thing with the 2.0t is consistent oil changes. The biggest catastrophic failure point on the FSI engine is the balance shaft assembly that is built into the oil pump. And the only way to be confident in its longevity is a consistent source of clean oil. So frequent oil changes with high quality filters. And then you'll be on the fatter side of the failure curve, but it doesn't mean failure won't ever occur.

Second thing is the cam follower and thats in part also a oil quality/pressure thing, so again frequent oil changes with quality synthetic.

There are other things of course, carbon buildup, etc (plenty I'm probably missing, but none are quite as catastrophic as the two above which can lead to complete engine failure). I, personally, have had 55k pretty much trouble free miles out of my 2.0t after I replaced the cam and HPFP after the cam follower failed. The ONLY failure I've had in that time the resulted in my being nearly stranded was when the cam sensor failed a few weeks back, and even then a couple minutes of fiddling and cranking and waiting for the ecu to get its shit together, it fired back up and drove fine (with a CEL and codes) until I could replace the cam sensor.

Now, again, the engines aren't perfect. Hell, mine had nearly catastrophic failure at 54k miles back in 2012 when it was 4 years old with the revised cam. So yea, failure is absolutely a big concern. But if you're fastidious about stuff, and particularly with a used car you go over everything and address all leaks and failure points, you'll be in good shape to have a reliable (as can be hoped for) FSI engine. Reliable, in this case, is a highly relative term of course. Its never going to come close to a Toyota Hilux/Tacoma which routinely go half a million miles with just oil changes..

The plastic bits are plastic bits. Every engine these days has a million plastic bits bolted to it. It is what it is, plan on replacing the plastic bits every 10 years or so.

[Charles.waite]

For me, always 1.8T and never had issues with the engines itself.

Heard a lot of horror stories qith these engines and trying to find if there's a way to make the engine itself reliable.

Would start with the oil pump freewheel and if anyone has other good info would appreciate that.

Lähetetty minun SM-G973F laitteesta Tapatalkilla

I used to have a 1.8t B6 and it was reliable of course, but after I replaced all the PCV and vacuum stuff with silicon and billet parts. I'd say they're more mechanical and less "electronic" but that doesn't mean more reliable, necessarily. I liked my 1.8t for what it was, and at Stage 1+ it was definitely fun. But the 2.0t is so much smoother, has way more low end torque and is much more refined. Some people don't care, I do. It also gets 10-20% better MPGs to boot, which I appreciate.

I'd not trade my 2.0t for a 1.8t. That being said I do have a almost finished built 2.0t with a brand new OEM oil pump/balance shaft with IE rods ready to go into my car in the next few weekd/months. Then next year I'm hoping to go k04 and that'll push me up to 280hp at the wheels. Good luck getting 280whp and 2000rpm spool with a 1.8t.

However if you're wanting to go crazy with a built block and big turbo, then I would 110% recommend a 1.8t as a base. FSI fueling doesn't scale well at all (unless you like spending $4k on fueling stuff) and the balance shafts REALLY don't like high revs. Its WAY WAY WAY easier and cheaper to build a 1.8t for big power.

[Charles.waite]

While you are installing the freewheel make sure the balance shaft bearings are tight even though they won't be rotating. Also consider the WASA oil pump pressure relief valve to replace the OEM one which has been known to stick open causing low oil pressure (due to high bypass flow back to sump). Jeevan already mentioned it but second the replacement of oil filter housing with new OEM. It's one of those plastic components things the Theiceman mentioned.

I mean, you could also lube up your wallet and buy a new OEM oil pump. I get the cost ($1600USD really is bonkers), but you lose a good deal of refinement without the balance shafts (matters to some, me for instance). And while I like aftermarket stuff too, I'm not entirely sure I'd take a flyer on relatively unproven parts in critical engine systems like oil pumps. Maybe I'm more risk averse and less financially conscious than others, but I'd rather spend $1600 on a new pump and have a known quantity, than $400+ on a freewheel and aftermarket bypass valve and still potentially have a tired oil pump in there (or loose balance shaft tolerances that leech oil pressure).

Its obviously a battle of money vs risk, but my car being a daily driver, being fully paid off, and me wanting to avoid the "your car is an old, unreilable, POS , you need to get a new one" conversation with the wife, I'm more inclined to spend more on oem stuff when necessary.

[Jeevan]

I mean, you could also lube up your wallet and buy a new OEM oil pump. I get the cost ($1600USD really is bonkers), but you lose a good deal of refinement without the balance shafts (matters to some, me for instance). And while I like aftermarket stuff too, I'm not entirely sure I'd take a flyer on relatively unproven parts in critical engine systems like oil pumps. Maybe I'm more risk averse and less financially conscious than others, but I'd rather spend $1600 on a new pump and have a known quantity, than $400+ on a freewheel and aftermarket bypass valve and still potentially have a tired oil pump in there (or loose balance shaft tolerances that leech oil pressure).

Its obviously a battle of money vs risk, but my car being a daily driver, being fully paid off, and me wanting to avoid the "your car is an old, unreilable, POS , you need to get a new one" conversation with the wife, I'm more inclined to spend more on oem stuff when necessary.

Might as well buy a brand new engine coz it feels even more refined and smooth.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Charles.waite]

Might as well buy a brand new engine coz it feels even more refined and smooth.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

That’s basically what I’ll have done at this point. But swapping a 1.8t isn’t some trivial task. You either value your time or you don’t. One way it’s cheap. The other way it’s expensive. My point was mainly, don’t remove stuff as “preventative” because some people get unlucky.

Also it’s not that hard to drop the pan and inspect the oil pump. If a new pump is too rich for your blood at least inspect the damn pump first...

[esandes]

Hey! I've got my hands on 2006 B7 with 2.0T engine.

I know it has some flaws and i'd like to get to hear what are the biggest conserns with this engine and how can i prevent them, or should i just keep an eye out for a good 1.8t.

I've already ordered new:
Cam follower (INA)
PCV (OEM)
The car has had the timing chain and tensioner done in 2016
The timing belt and water pump has been done this year

I know the oil pump is a issue aswell and i've got my eye on the wasa or vis balance shaft delete free wheel.

Also would get new pick up tube aswell

Will this remove the worry for getting a low oil pressure light?

The car has nearly 170 000 miles and has a spotless oil change history since new.

Thanks in advance, just want an reliable daily with decent power.

Plan is to go stage 1 or 2 with basically all the bolt ons, if i can just get a peace of mind with this engine

Lähetetty minun SM-G973F laitteesta Tapatalkilla

If you keep the engine stock it should last a very long time without changing the cam follower. My car was stock for the first 100,000 km with the original follower and it looked good.

When you tune with a higher flow HPFP the cam follower doesn't last so long. For my 2+ it can last maybe 24,000 km until the black anti friction coating is rubbed off.

If the diverter valve part number is rev d it should handle a tune without issue.

Do oil changes every 8,000 km max. Use the OEM oil filter. I like 0W40 in the winter and 5W40 in the summer. Use good oil such as pennzoil platinum euro.

I wouldn't worry about the oil pump.

The main flaw is the cam follower design. I change it every 8,000 or 16,000 km just to be sure.

[Jayz691]

I wouldn't worry about the oil pump??? Great advise, lol. Wow, its just a very common engine killer, on higher milage cars...

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine Forum mobile app

[Jeevan]

If you keep the engine stock it should last a very long time without changing the cam follower. My car was stock for the first 100,000 km with the original follower and it looked good.

When you tune with a higher flow HPFP the cam follower doesn't last so long. For my 2+ it can last maybe 24,000 km until the black anti friction coating is rubbed off.

If the diverter valve part number is rev d it should handle a tune without issue.

Do oil changes every 8,000 km max. Use the OEM oil filter. I like 0W40 in the winter and 5W40 in the summer. Use good oil such as pennzoil platinum euro.

I wouldn't worry about the oil pump.

The main flaw is the cam follower design. I change it every 8,000 or 16,000 km just to be sure.

Fool, people drive 3-5k miles a month. Do you expect them to change cam follower every month? Cam followers last easily for 40k -60k miles assuming your cam lobe is in perfect condition.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[esandes]

I wouldn't worry about the oil pump??? Great advise, lol. Wow, its just a very common engine killer, on higher milage cars...

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine Forum mobile app

Don't get me wrong. My oil pump failed at 157,000 km. The root cause of the failure was a punched through cam follower. If it wasn't for the follower inspection after the failure you'd be inclined to blame the pump design.

Doing the pump conversion to no balance shaft will cause extra vibrations.

I bought my car new from an audi showroom.

[esandes]

I think Adam did the follower conversion to roller type and he's happy with it. That's the cat's pajamas if you don't want to change the follower after using a modded HPFP.

[aluthman]

I think Adam did the follower conversion to roller type and he's happy with it. That's the cat's pajamas if you don't want to change the follower after using a modded HPFP.

Yep, the roller conversion has been doing very well so far. I've probably only got 10-15k on it at this point though. Prior to installing it, I would replace cam followers every 7500-10k miles and the coating would be considerably worn already due to the upgraded hpfp. I installed a brand new gem intake cam when I built the motor, so the lobe is/was as good as it could be. I am also one of the few people still running balance shafts. I installed a brand new assembly when I built my engine because I enjoy my car driving like an Audi and not a rattling/buzzing clapped out shitbox. Some people may not care about increased vibrations, but I do. I change my oil frequently (every 3-5k miles typically) and expect to get a long life out of the oil pump despite my 7300 rpm redline.

[wreakeda4turbo]

the TSI roller cam follower mod get rid of the silly TFSI cam follower bad design problem and make it a longer lasting part.
http://iabedindustries.com/ makes them . I bought just the parts and did not need to have to send them my cam cover because they recognized i was calling from a engineering type shop. I guess its less hassle for them. I dealt directly with them because they are in Canada and the guy i dealt with was named Issam. I sent him money he sent me the parts I needed. i had to bore my cam cover myself.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-iabed-in...-103-107blkkt/ sells it

I second the vote on keeping the balance shafts I too feel they where designed for it that is why they are there. Why mess with German design. My car i have yet to do a full rebuild but when I do I will mainly do forged rods with arp bolts/studs and avoid any 1.8 oil pump mod. when you do you your regular timing belt chain tensioner oil change check the cam follower . make sure all your screens are in or make sure to get replacements they are tiny but literally save you money worth it.

i did alot of mods to a vw golf back before I eventually bought a audi that had everything I did and even a extra gear with better fuel mileage to boot. Very happy with the 2.0LT ea113
I might mess with a bigger turbo once I have forged rods if when my turbo goes.

[Jeevan]

the TSI roller cam follower mod get rid of the silly TFSI cam follower bad design problem and make it a longer lasting part.
http://iabedindustries.com/ makes them . I bought just the parts and did not need to have to send them my cam cover because they recognized i was calling from a engineering type shop. I guess its less hassle for them. I dealt directly with them because they are in Canada and the guy i dealt with was named Issam. I sent him money he sent me the parts I needed. i had to bore my cam cover myself.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-iabed-in...-103-107blkkt/ sells it

I second the vote on keeping the balance shafts I too feel they where designed for it that is why they are there. Why mess with German design. My car i have yet to do a full rebuild but when I do I will mainly do forged rods with arp bolts/studs and avoid any 1.8 oil pump mod. when you do you your regular timing belt chain tensioner oil change check the cam follower . make sure all your screens are in or make sure to get replacements they are tiny but literally save you money worth it.

i did alot of mods to a vw golf back before I eventually bought a audi that had everything I did and even a extra gear with better fuel mileage to boot. Very happy with the 2.0LT ea113
I might mess with a bigger turbo once I have forged rods if when my turbo goes.

There is a reason they are not made and built anymore, on back order everywhere. People are not willing to spend over 600$ for a chunk of aluminum when a new cam follower is about 15$ and takes 20mins to swap. It all depends on how much money you have and willing to throw away on a 15 year old car. I don't understand when people talk about refinement, fuel efficiency and all that garbage when they are not willing to spend money on a newer model cars and engines. There is a fine line between throwing maintenance parts and going over board on an old them. Returns are very diminishing as keeping adding parts.

[Charles.waite]

Find me a newer Avant with a manual and I’ll buy it. What is wrong with wanting an older car but also wanting refinement. And wanting an Avant with a manual since Audi has since deemed us not worth of getting 6mt Avants in the US. I’m willing to spend $600 on a roller cam but my car is pretty stock and even my new engine will be stock or stage 1 for at least another year before I go k04. Given what I’m dumping into this new engine I want to break it in with standard setup for a bit. I’ll probably do a roller cam conversion in a year or two, it’s a simple bolt on thing so nothing I can’t do in an hour in the street in front of my house.

Also lol at a car from 2008 being considered old now. Maybe I’m the one who is old, but 2008 doesn’t seem all that long ago...yea I’m old.

[Jeevan]

Find me a newer Avant with a manual and I’ll buy it. What is wrong with wanting an older car but also wanting refinement. And wanting an Avant with a manual since Audi has since deemed us not worth of getting 6mt Avants in the US. I’m willing to spend $600 on a roller cam but my car is pretty stock and even my new engine will be stock or stage 1 for at least another year before I go k04. Given what I’m dumping into this new engine I want to break it in with standard setup for a bit. I’ll probably do a roller cam conversion in a year or two, it’s a simple bolt on thing so nothing I can’t do in an hour in the street in front of my house.

Also lol at a car from 2008 being considered old now. Maybe I’m the one who is old, but 2008 doesn’t seem all that long ago...yea I’m old.

Nobody said you are wrong. I am just saying you are not in the majority of the people existing in this world that either leases cars, buys a used beaters, can't DIY, buys a car and drives very few years and switches to new models like an Iphone, Doesnt go under the car unless something is broke, Goes to lube places for oil change, Realistic people, Rich people, People who got several priority other than loving a car, Car is car that goes from A to B, people who still think 4WD is AWD and doesnt know that AWD is different from 2WD, goes to mechanic, Broke enough to buy old car for 3 to 4k.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[aluthman]

Also lol at a car from 2008 being considered old now. Maybe I’m the one who is old, but 2008 doesn’t seem all that long ago...yea I’m old.

I feel ya man...

[Jayz691]

There is a reason they are not made and built anymore, on back order everywhere. People are not willing to spend over 600$ for a chunk of aluminum when a new cam follower is about 15$ and takes 20mins to swap. It all depends on how much money you have and willing to throw away on a 15 year old car. I don't understand when people talk about refinement, fuel efficiency and all that garbage when they are not willing to spend money on a newer model cars and engines. There is a fine line between throwing maintenance parts and going over board on an old them. Returns are very diminishing as keeping adding parts.

See, but thats the difference. There are car guys, then theres people like you. Not everyone is the same. Id rather put money into my b7, that I love, than a car payment. Plus, I know my car pretty well(I work on it enough), so when ya buy a new(er) car, gotta learn all over again, screw that, lol.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine Forum mobile app

[Charles.waite]

Nobody said you are wrong. I am just saying you are not in the majority of the people existing in this world that either leases cars, buys a used beaters, can't DIY, buys a car and drives very few years and switches to new models like an Iphone, Doesnt go under the car unless something is broke, Goes to lube places for oil change, Realistic people, Rich people, People who got several priority other than loving a car, Car is car that goes from A to B, people who still think 4WD is AWD and doesnt know that AWD is different from 2WD, goes to mechanic, Broke enough to buy old car for 3 to 4k.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

Who the hell cares about the majority of people though? This isn’t a forum for people who don’t care, so why pretend it is?

I put money into my car because I really like my car. Not a single company makes anything equivalent anymore so what could I upgrade to? Sure I could buy a b8 Avant and a wrecked s4 and drivetrain swap, that would be awesome, but I don’t have the money to pay a shop to do that or the space to do it myself. So it’s irrelevant to even pretend it’s an option for me.

This is all besides the point, the OP is asking how to make his engine reliable, not what new car to buy. Try to be helpful, not go off on tangents.

[tloft4]

Also lol at a car from 2008 being considered old now. Maybe I’m the one who is old, but 2008 doesn’t seem all that long ago...yea I’m old.

my car is almost half as old as me.. i feel old and you guys have me beat by a bit. but im in a fairly similar boat; i actually LIKE my car, more than any other ive had, it runs perfectly fine, does everything i ask of it. even if i do get a new car someday, i doubt i'd get rid of this one. and if i got a new one, id probably feel pretty bad driving it the way i do this one. if something catastrophic were to happen, thats a different story, but til then its minimal cost to keep it on the road

[Jayz691]

With all the time and money I spent on my car(lots of both, lol). Only way id get rid of it, is if it got totalled.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Audizine Forum mobile app

[Charles.waite]

Same here. Partly because of time and money, but mainly because nothing newer really does it for me.

Maybe a b8.5 2.0t Avant/Allroad with a manual swap since that’s relatively simple. But I’d still need an interim car while I assembled the swap parts. And I’d have to cross my fingers that the timing chains and pistons aren’t ******ed....

[Wizard-of-OD]

I second the vote on keeping the balance shafts I too feel they where designed for it that is why they are there. Why mess with German design. .

The balance Shafts are a band aid. A fluidampr does a better job of aiding with the harmonics of the engine that those balance shafts ever well....

[Charles.waite]

The balance Shafts are a band aid. A fluidampr does a better job of aiding with the harmonics of the engine that those balance shafts ever well....

Balance shafts aren't a band aid. They mechanically cancel out specific engine harmonics and vibrations. I'd argue a fluidampr is more of a band-aid.

Also, why not have both??