~17lb or lighter rim options, what are you using?

[A1 A2 German]

I'm currently sitting on RS4 reps, unfortunately I do not know the rim weight, however just weighted 10 mins ago and they came in at ~50lbs with tires (225-35 19x8.5 et45).

Regardless of tire weight, these need to go, and the cost of buying anything even considered "lightweight" would be an improvement. But I want a huge jump, not just 21lb rims, if I have to buy I might as well go lighter. According to all my calculations what looks to be perfect would be 17x9 et50. This only increases the face side ~1.3mm closer to the fender, and brings the rim ~11mm closer to the strut.

But....that seems to be a pipe dream, yeah, not a chance anyone would carry that size. Even screwing around on Tire Rack they have approximately 0 rims to choose from in et45 if a were to even drop down to a 17x8.5 (opposed to 17x9). And 5x112? Everything is 114.3 et20 JDM silly spec yilly yo!

17x9 et50 : What I prefer
17x8.5 et45 : What I'd settle for

One factor which may throw this thread under the bus, is keeping the cost under $2k. I'd love me some 18" Litespeed Rs5 rims at ~14lbs a pop which are..... $10,000. And want neat finishes and carbon inlays too...only thousands more! I can't see dropping that on any one thing.

I will state a mercy call, if I'm forced too, is 18"s...which is counter productive to being "lighter" as an increase in size. This opens up some options of sizing, but trying for smaller & lighter. As others have stated, some of these are just so JDM it hurts and just so unappealing. I really like the ~I-Beam euro style, opposed to the JDM curvey/bowed/curvature spokes.

~I-Beam construction: https://images.app.goo.gl/wtJggE55qtKb997D8


Countering objections and responses:

- AP Racing calipers (17"s shouldn't be an issue)
- Not going to drill RPF1's, etc, to fit
- Again, if going to buy going to shoot for the lighter variety
- If really my choices are JDM then post away with JDM.

[bshanna]

if you're willing to go up to 18", konig flowformed are pretty reasonable in price, size, and weight (they have 17s but not in 5x112). Plus a few models look like what i think you're looking for.

[Silverex]

For the money RPF1 are hard to beat. If you don’t wanna redrill em wobbles or a stud conversion is always an option.

[coolgraymemo]

Your offset will need to be lower if you want them to fit.

17x8.5 should be around et35. The offset will likely need to be et30 for 17x9.

[A1 A2 German]

Thanks for the suggestions.

17x8.5 should be around et35. The offset will likely need to be et30 for 17x9.

At 8.5 et45 I'm inline with the factory et45, and sitting but ~2mm within the fender sheet metal. I do not have 10mm to spare to poke put, not alone don't want poke. Et45 places me very flush to the outer sheet metal body of the vehicle, so much so I had to remove all unibody inner sheet metal lips as the face of the rims touched the body (till cut out). I've been this way for 10+ years with no fender, paint, or body rubbing.

Now that I'm even saying this I'd want a 17x9 et51, as an et50 would place me 1mm outwards (poke). I have a single mm to spare outward, but no more. B5's have a big tendency to tuck, if I went with a smaller et to push me out I'd have to raise the vehicle a bit to clear the tires, out and under (over) the outer unibody lips.

[OreOOO]

Enkei RS05RR, 19Lbs. each. 18x9.5, et45 with 20mm spacer = final et25 to clear 18Z. Right around your price range and beautiful set of wheels. More of a fitment kind of setup but you can get narrower sets.

[A1 A2 German]

O.k. , now we're talking, that's "a look" to the point that could be the advertisement ad for the rims.

- I think I'm coming to the conclusion I'm far too low, my rim facing side lip sits inside the arches. This wouldn't change my et needs, but wouldn't hurt to lift her up an inch.

- I'm definitely on board for that look, just trying to get smaller, wider and even lighter.

To be clear, if I already had 19lb rims fitted, it wouldn't make too much sense to purchase another set for only saving ~2.5lbs per corner. But I'm starting from scratch.

[coolgraymemo]

Thanks for the suggestions.



At 8.5 et45 I'm inline with the factory et45, and sitting but ~2mm within the fender sheet metal. I do not have 10mm to spare to poke put, not alone don't want poke. Et45 places me very flush to the outer sheet metal body of the vehicle, so much so I had to remove all unibody inner sheet metal lips as the face of the rims touched the body (till cut out). I've been this way for 10+ years with no fender, paint, or body rubbing.

Now that I'm even saying this I'd want a 17x9 et51, as an et50 would place me 1mm outwards (poke). I have a single mm to spare outward, but no more. B5's have a big tendency to tuck, if I went with a smaller et to push me out I'd have to raise the vehicle a bit to clear the tires, out and under (over) the outer unibody lips.

You need the tire the clear the suspension. I’m not referring to poke/tuck.

[A1 A2 German]

My fenders are removed, so I can get nose to nose with the upright and measure to the exact mm the distance I have. Also as I decrease in diameter I gain inner depth as the upright swoops away from the inner rim face the smaller the wheel. The toughest wheels to fit on a B5 would be 18/19/20's (or extra tall tires) as the upright sticks out the most up top were 18/19/20's kinda sit (with tires). The rears I'll check, those are easier to view, opposed to having front fenders (when installed).

[coolgraymemo]

BTDT

Et45 with 235/45-17 didn’t fit with a wheel that was 7.5” wide.

Much less one that is 8.5-9.0”.

[Silverex]

Doesn’t it really come down to the wheel and how it’s designed more than just the ET?

[A1 A2 German]

BTDT

Et45 with 235/45-17 didn’t fit with a wheel that was 7.5” wide.

Much less one that is 8.5-9.0”.

That's a much smaller wheel, being over 12mm skinner on both faces, than I run. Where were you getting hung up on?

[coolgraymemo]

The tire was hitting the uprights.

[A1 A2 German]

Awh, yeah I'd be shooting for no more then 40 series, and actually would try to only get 35 series...as the farther you head upwards the less room you get as the upright swoops outwards at the top.

[coolgraymemo]

You’re going to need a much lower offset. Et25-35

[A1 A2 German]

I'm failing to understand, I'm using the same rim calculator I've used for years, an et25 would push my rims 20mm further out. I don't have but a single mm to spare. A et35 pushes my rims 10mm further out. I'm already flush as it is, I can not go further out but a single mm. I don't have room to push out, I have room to sit further in.

Edit: Unless you're simply talking about going with a narrow 7, 7.5", 8" rim...that the extra poke is a wash as narrower, so comes out the same.

[coolgraymemo]

I give up.

[1thenaton1]

I saw a nice option recently, I will link you via PM so that I don't buy them myself. I use another lightweight 17" wheel by BBS that fits the bill.

[happy2B5]

For the money RPF1 are hard to beat. If you don’t wanna redrill em wobbles or a stud conversion is always an option.

RPF1, close thread. 5x112 available
If dead set on that high an ET, here you go

https://www.amazon.com/ENKEI-RPF1-5x.../dp/B07GRJWHYR

https://www.amazon.com/17x7-5-Enkei-.../dp/B002HLPPJG

https://www.fm-wheels.com/enkei-rpf1...7x9-5x112-3-45

I would be very surprised if the last 17x9 5x112 are actually available.

How about some bbs rgr in 17s are about $550 each

[A1 A2 German]

Thanks

- If you could resend the FB ad, the provided link goes to the main page.

- Thanks for links

[happy2B5]

Do you mean the FM ad? Like I said, I am 99.99% sure their ad is incorrect and I would just call them anyway to verify.

BBS RGR are under 18 lbs in 17s but only 7.5 wide so. Sweet fully forged wheels though @$550 each

OZ ultraleggeras are always a good proven lw option.

JDM brands I have owned and lightweight, wedssport, advan, ssr

[A1 A2 German]

Oh, was talking to the guy above you, he sent me a link to a private ad on Facebook...yet the link he generated links to the B5 ~fanclub main page.

And yeah, I highly doubt they have those RPF1's in that size, I contacted them, awaiting a reply.

[happy2B5]

TSW bathurst are damn nice imo. TSW site shows 17x9 5x112 et50 @ 18lbs
https://www.tsw.com/alloy_wheels_bathurst.php

To memo's point above regarding ET comcerns, I share the same in that a 9" wide wheel at ET50 is asking for trouble and I will leave it at that.

If you step up your price range by about a grand you could look at volk racing te37's

[wpfahl]

In my experience, et35’s @ 8.5” wheel width with aluminum front uprights allow the best tire clearance on this platform.


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[A1 A2 German]

Well we'll well....know I 100% all the confusion. I'm in the garage like wth, not a chance in hell et35.

I know exactly were I am, and I elected to come here as my forums are dead and the S4 boys are investing the coin into their vehicles and can see rim selections.

I'm B5 A4, aka et45. I thought we shared the same offset, I never knew we were off 10mm's from each other. Homer doh!

My first post should be accurate, which this thread is more in regards to lightweight options opposed to et's.

[coolgraymemo]

I think you’re confused.

Stock B5/S4 wheels are et45 or et43. Just like B5/A4 wheels.

[A1 A2 German]

Well dam, the first search results I got were B5 S4's being et35...went a couple results further down and than see et45.

[RMode]

if you're willing to go up to 18", konig flowformed are pretty reasonable in price, size, and weight (they have 17s but not in 5x112). Plus a few models look like what i think you're looking for.

they wont weigh what he wants them to (17x9 is going to be over 17 lbs, maybe not by much)

fowform is better, and some companies (SSR/Weds) do it better than others (Konig)

[RMode]

Oh, was talking to the guy above you, he sent me a link to a private ad on Facebook...yet the link he generated links to the B5 ~fanclub main page.

And yeah, I highly doubt they have those RPF1's in that size, I contacted them, awaiting a reply.

https://enkei.com/product-category/wheels/

RPF1 don't come in 17 inch 5x112

Best bet, 17x9 +35, and have them redrilled by someone who knows what they are doing. They are a little under 16 lbs

or go 18x9 +35 which come in 5x112 and are a hair over 17 lbs IIRC

[happy2B5]

https://enkei.com/product-category/wheels/

RPF1 don't come in 17 (x 9) inch 5x112

18x9 +35 which come in 5x112 and are a hair over 17 lbs IIRC

Minor clarification

And, 18x9 (likely 17x9 also) have a real hard time (as in do not) fitting over many brakes aside from b6/7 s4 caliper swaps without a significantly sized spacer. Ask me how I know and is well documented for quite some time.

Those pf09 are a damn nice new offering. Look like trmotorsports (tirerack) now discontinued in house lw wheels that I believe were made by enkei anyway.

[RMode]

Assuming inner barrel clearance is there (which it is for, say, a 17z on 17 inch wheels, the only thing that determines caliper clearance is backspace. Has nearly nothing to do with width, nor offset. Backspace is what sets forth how the spokes sit relative to the barrel. Most others calipers options (Stoptech, AP, Brembo) tend to have shallower mounting requirements than 17z/18z, so are a bit more forgiving with clearances.

Example - our RS3 has calipers far bigger than the 17z on my B5, and yet a simple 18x8.5 wheel fits, no spacer (such as Neuspeed, which we run, which would be another good option to consider OP).

Many wheels are designed specifically for a large caliper. You don't see this from US "brands" often, as they prefer a one size fits all approach, being that they are all too often cheap, low pressure cast (Rotiform, VMR, etc etc etc).

Look at brands like SSR, Work (as far as 1 piece wheels) - you'll see the same wheel design/name, even within a given width and offset range, designed to fit varying larger calipers. This is because they often make these same wheels with different backspacing. In their marketing language, you'll see it referred to as Face Type, or, levels of Concavity. Enkei does this on some of their flowformed wheels (they call it MAT). Rays does this too, but at a different price point (Gram Lights are their cast wheels, Volk are both forged and/or multipiece, and you'll see the same face 1, face 2, etc on a ton of their wheels)

My first B5 back 21 years ago (eek!) had MTM brakes and Oettinger wheels - 18x8. Fit just fine, no spacers, 235 tires, lowered first on MTM springs, then eventually, Ohlins). On my current one, I'm in process of spec'ing a new set, likely going Volk, possibly Advan, so get something in the 8.5 inch or 9 inch range, with an offset in the mid 30's. My current BBS (RGR) need spacers (for stock calipers and for the 17Z I now use), and while it works fine, I'd like a simpler setup and something more unique as well. I'll have to sadly change it up again once I fit the widebody, but, at least I know these level of wheels maintain value over time.

Hope that helps someone!

[Groto]

All this talk and I'm still sitting on 16 year old SSR Comps. 17x8.5? 10mm spacers. So light I can do shoulder raises with a one piece wheel. If I knew more about ets and all, I'd help, forgive the noob.

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[A1 A2 German]

Multiple topics:

- I really love the TSW's Bathurst, which is a bonus to like them, they're light, but still 19lbs. Again, if my car had these already I wouldn't be swapping out as would be a waste of ~$2000+ (with tires) to swap from 19lb to say 17lbs being nominal ~2lb gains per corner. But since I'm starting from scratch gonna try swinging for the fences.

- I reached out to a company that supposedly has 5x112's, even though Enkei's pdf chart states they're not made, I'll report back.

- I'll let one cat outta the bag, is I found one of the lightest rims in the industry, coming in at $9800 otd (that's with out tires) and the kicker? They're mounted on new Indy 500's for $3000 as a package deal. And their weight? 43.3lbs, yet my cheapo garbage China reps, in even a bigger size are 48.3lbs. This is perplexity that a $11,000+ baller status wheels are but a 5lb savings per corner. Which is exactly why I'm here, is it's seems so nominal in weight savings for $3000. And they're pretty bland, so boring the current owner doesn't like'm much
either, which I agree. Which if anything is to be had, is there such a thing a lightweight tires or am I being ridiculous? I mean, I have ~junk at 48.3lbs, those are top tier and only 5lbs different.

- We've seen the studies, 16" are best at A (say x-cross), while 17"s perform best at B (say straights), and 18"s perform the worst. But what about more tire patch but also slightly heavier (say 9") vs less tire patch but lighter weight (say 8.5"), anyone seen anything on this?

- And to beat a horse . I get it, everyone is on the et35 train with 8.5", I fully understand. And as I stand at my car at et45 with 8.5" it's perfect. My wheels are under the fenders, the face of the rim is flush with the body...and when I superimpose my wheels over what I think I need vs you guys at et35 I see a different outcome so now what?

(pics imbound)

My 8.5" ET45 vs 9" ET45
My wheels are in orange, but a 6mm push in each direction. I did state I really didn't want to push out a single mm more outward, at 6mm I realize I'd have to lift the car up and lose any tuck...as I'd never clear the fender lips.




Now my 8.5" ET45 vs 9" ET35
My wheels in orange, and these ET35's are 16mm more poke:

[RMode]

tire weights vary as much as wheel weights do

Each manufacturer publishes the stats on their site for a given tire, at least that I've seen.

You're not going to get the data of 17 vs 18 vs 19. Simply too much data to cull together and way too many variables.

What the above chart doesn't, and can't, take into consideration, is tire dimensions. 225 doesn't indicate anything but a "family" of tires, not a fixed measurement. There are narrow 225 (or any other size) and wide ones. That then makes the second value also largely useless, as it's a % of the first.

[A1 A2 German]

^ Thanks, and I'm not too concerned on tire sizing per illustration value and agree...the tire measurement I take with a grain of salt.

BIG NEWS:
" Hi, We custom drill RPF1s to 5x112 in any sizes offered by enkei. We are the only ones to offer a service like this, that's why you won't find them anywhere else.

I recommend to just go with the RPF1 in 17x8.5 et45. The only difference between 17x9 and 17x8.5 is the caliper clearance and wheel design. 17x9s have a flat spoke, while 17x8.5 is convex. Attached are pictures of both. Thanks,
Abe

FM-Wheels.com "

Well that's awesome about the drilling.

[Mikse]

I highly doubt ET45 will clear front brakes. You should definitely to ET35 if you go 8,5" wide.

[AudiSportB5S4]

I can add that I have 18x8 RPF1s (et35) and they clear my 18z’s up front. I did however have to get a 10mm spacer for clearing the rear BBK.




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[crsracing]

Probably a long shot, and would definitely have to be redrilled. but after a multi month search for light weight wheels I scored a set of volk se37k's mine are 18x7.5 and about 15.5lbs and fully forged. I'm planing on a combined weight under 40lbs a wheel. They did come in a 17x8.5 et 45 or 50 and 17x9 et 40 but where discontinued a long time ago.00E0E_ewaffbdjHmE_0lM0t2_1200x900.jpg

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[joegem5]

IMG_1200.JPG
My OZ Superleggera 17x8 et35 clear Brembos with no spacer. Weigh 16lb and 38.5lb with tires.


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[A1 A2 German]

^ Awh yes that's me that reached out to you.

So a possible change of ideas and dam you sneaky Tire Rack! So I was figuring barrel width didn't mean much if I wasn't going to utilize the full potential of 8.5 or 9", so got me thinking of a smaller wheel 17x8 et35 with a meater tire, so came across this as a 17" with 245/35/17's, what a fantastic look!




Oh wait, you sneaky bastards!






So I see a few running 17x8 245/35 or 40, what if I wanted more meat, say a 255 or just a boat anchor at that point? I really like the look of small rims on meaty tires and having tire...pushover? I heard that you have to have the taller 40 wall to accommodate the reverse stretch.

I see all my vehicles have slight stretch or not utilizing the entire barrel width, on the road see ~2000 BMW 540i's with very very square set ups, as utilizing the full barrel were the side wall stands straight up and there's a distinct sharp corner were the wall meets the patch. Can't say I like this look but they're certainly maximizing the barrel width. So what'd it take do get some meat on the bone on an 8"?

Kinda juicy 17x8 245/40/17