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  1. #1
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    2.0t Variable Camshaft Angle Out of Spec

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    Symptoms:

    Very rough idle, smooths out with rpm.
    DME is looking for 28 degrees cam angle
    DME is showing -13+/-(1) degree
    Variable camshaft timing seems to be disabled as it does not show that it wants different values as I change rpm nor does it change the reported position


    Diagnostics Steps Performed/Parts Replaced:

    New camshaft tensioner, camshaft chain, verified camshaft phaser(sprocket) is locked.
    New timing belt, tensioner, and respective idlers.

    Verified timing on crank pulley and timing case cover. O T *down arrow. Lined up with down arrow
    Verified timing on the camshafts point towards each other in a symmetrical fashion
    Tried to turn the intake camshaft to verify the camshaft phaser was still locked
    Colored link in camshaft timing chain was lined up with the dimple in the intake cam.
    *NOTE i didnt have to turn the intake cam almost AT ALL to get the cam phaser dowel to line up with the machined notch on the exhaust camshaft

    CHECKED ALL THIS after startup


    Details Of Question

    I am really out of ideas on this one. Is it possible that there are different timing case covers with different tdc mark locations?
    This is a salvage yard motor that I was given that is not a BWT. We did have to swap over our wiring harness. The only thing that was different were two large plugs that goto the injectors.

    TIA
    Chris

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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Is the Cam position sensor functioning properly? Is the N205 (cam pahse adjuster) Solenoid working or leaking oil internally (usually happens when the connector on top is leaking oil)? Are there any codes?
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
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  4. #4
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    I replaced the N205 with a new one that was available for only $90, I don't like throwing parts but at this point and at that price... Anyway, it is not leaking. I was getting a P0016, i'll have to check and see if I am still getting that code.

    I just tried unplugging and plugging in the cam sensor and it goes from no data (solid 28) to -13.x when I plug the cam sensor in. I will oscope the cam sensor and see if its getting a strange signal and the DME is just interpreting that reading as -13.x.

  5. #5
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    IMG_1178.jpg

    Cam sensor signal is ok, crank sensor signal is ok, although they are definitely not phased properly. I checked the crank sprocket phase by using a screwdriver in no 1 and rotating the crank to the TDC mark on the valve cover. The only thing left is the camshaft trigger wheel is rotated????

    Has anyone seen this?

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Given the design of the cam trigger section, I don't think its possible for the trigger wheel to move. It looks like this:


    Is it at all possible the timing chain is off? It sounds like you verified it after running the engine, I just wonder if it still could be off?
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
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  7. #7
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    Hi Charles,

    I did verify after the car was ran. Those are the pics you see above. Talking out loud here; I verified the phaser was locked and the lobes have the symmetry that suggests they are in time. If I were to move it a tooth out of time, thats such a large angular change, I suspect I would clearly know it if it was out a tooth by the lobe profiles? I even tried to turn the intake cam after removing the cam lock fixture to make sure the phaser was still in its lock out position.

    Sanity check? I have to have something wrong or that camshaft trigger wheel got rotated at some point.

    It looks like the trigger wheel on that camshaft is a tolerance fit, no?

    Chris

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    I think you should back way up to how the problem started.

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  9. #9
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    If I understand you, I think that's tricky in this case. Car comes in with a blown motor and this one was delivered from an auto recycler. Thoughts?

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by borderm3 View Post
    If I understand you, I think that's tricky in this case. Car comes in with a blown motor and this one was delivered from an auto recycler. Thoughts?
    im not sure what you mean ... so basically you assume you had a good running motor, for some reason it blew, you rebuilt it and now have issues ??
    Just trying to understand what is going on as you provided no back story, just what you think the problem is. The back story is very important. First thing to understand is, is it an organic problem or did you induce it.

    From the way i am reading it you induced it. This would be a huge clue to where the problem lies.

    The vast majority of these come back to the static timing was set incorrectly. So lets start with your detailed back story on how this all unfolded, there may be a clue or 2 in that story.
    Last edited by Theiceman; 02-26-2021 at 09:38 AM.
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  11. #11
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    Sure! I appreciate it.

    Initial diagnosis and engine acquisition:
    Customers vehicle came in, diagnosed by another shop that it needed a motor. After inspection, I see the timing chain tensioner failed; Ubiquitous standard failure, the brittle guide broke and the metal plunger caught and broke the timing chain. The car has 225k on it. I found a motor from a salvage yard with 78k, with turbo. Customer decides to go with this motor. After receiving the first motor, which looked like it was no where near as low as 78k, I performed a leak down test on it and it failed on two cylinders at nearly 100% leak down. The salvage yard took a week and finally sent me another motor. This motor looked great, although it was not a BWT, the sticker was missing. The yard said it was a BPG and that it was interchangeable, I ended up having to swap the injector harness from the original BWT motor to it so that everything hooked up to the vehicles harness. This engine leaked down acceptably for a motor that has been setting around for extended period.

    Preparation and installation of engine:
    I took what was left of the timing cover off the engine. I noticed that according to the timing cover and pulley I had on there that the crank:cam timing was off a couple teeth on the camshaft pulley. At the time I chalked this up to whatever accident the vehicle was in and the damage to the timing cover. So I installed the new timing belt, idlers, tensioners, belt, etc per the Mitchell1 directions. I don't recall which crank pulley and which timing case cover combination I used, but I swore I checked to make sure they were indexed at the same angles ( maybe not? ).

    We then install the engine and when we fire it up its a little noisy at the cam tensioner area and a very rough idle that smooths out with increased engine speed. I scan it and it's complaining about the variable intake runner volume motor. I swap the old one of the blown motor and fixed that code but did not fix the rough idle. Meanwhile the noise in the cam timing chain area is getting much worse at idle and smooths out with increased engine speed. I also have a P0016 code, which I figure is due to the tensioner failure. I change the tensioner and cam timing change per directions on Mitchell1. This solves the timing chain rattle but does not solve the P0016. At this point I start looking at other metrics to see if anything else is going on. I check fuel pressure, it's delta(requested,actual) rail pressure is 800 at idle. I replace the HPFP and that fixes that problem; Still rough idle, P0016. Now I am racking my brain thinking what could possibly be wrong in the timing. I find a white paper from Audi about the variable timing system and realize there is a spring loaded piston that locks the phaser when not exposed to oil pressure, so that when it is timed, it is always timed correctly. Looking at the old phaser from the blown motor I see the little notch that I saw on the motor I was timing, which I recalled was pointing straight down. This notch is not mentioned anywhere in any technical articles or directions, i'm sure its for use when assembling the phaser itself. Anyway, it came obvious to me that I had timed the motor without the phaser being locked. So it was viola moment and I was sure I would pull that phaser off and it wouldnt be locked and I would have my problem. I pulled the valve cover and rear timing cover off and of course it was out of time by visual cam lobe inspection. So the phaser was not locked when I timed it last. This time I decided to take apart the phaser from the old motor (it has a chipped tooth), inspected it and learned how it worked. I then took apart the phaser from the new motor made sure everything was good and nothing was worn and retimed the engine. Still no fix....so I rack my brain and think maybe the problem is the crank sprocket or timing cover marks are out of angle. I pull #1 plug put a screwdriver in it and attempt to dwell tdc myself, granted this isn't a great test by yourself, it seemed good. *I would like to do this again with some help*. That's when I back probed the cam and crank sensors and verified they were actually out of time. Verified the waveforms independently were acceptable. Then I had a customer come that has the same vehicle, back-probed it and verified what I thought the correlated waveforms should look like.

    So with a reasonable degree of certainty I know the vehicle is physically out of time. I just still don't know why or how. I really wonder if there was a reason why it was not timed to the marks I was using when I got it, coupled with my uncertainty of my tdc dwell test, makes me wonder there is something going on there.

    Thoughts?

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    That's a great explanation and certainly makes more sense now. I think your static timing is wrong and indeed that is what is causing your issue. I think it is important to understand what happens for the car to test the cam advance. It's a good read if you can find it on the internet. The engine is put through a particular set of tests before flagging a p0016.
    The process as you likely know is verify static timing. The odd thing is the phaser should always return to full retard on cams when the engine is stopped. So you were right in to suspect that.
    TDC on cylinder one with your screwdriver us fine. That an old school trick I used to use before I could afford a dial indjcator.
    I would suggest get it to TDC and check your cam lobe angels again on cylinder 4. Use I dial indicator and forget marks for now.
    At TDC those lobes on cylinder 4 should be perfectly symmetrical


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  13. #13
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    Thanks man!

    I have a dial indicator at my shop for setting up differentials. I’ll use it for tdc and cams. I didnt bother with cams because as long as the phaser is locked, which I verified this time by trying to turn the intake came, then a tooth off the sprocket is a gross enough change that its noticeable by eye?

    Re: p0016, I am vaguely familiar, I do agree its interesting!


    P.s. I compression tested 180+\-2 psi across the board!!!! Thats why I have been working in keeping this engine for my customer

    From my experience, getting any mid 2000 euro motor in salvage is about 50/50 you get something that doesnt consume oil etc..

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    Yes when you are at TDC you will know by eye if the cams are timed correctly. I will send you a couple of links tomorrow . You will need a few long extensions for your dial indicator due to head design. It's way down there.

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  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    Good Morning .. here are a couple of reference you might find very usefull.

    This is a you tube video of a guy doing what you are doing. he sets it up wrong and shows you exactly what to look for , its one of the best videos I have seen with respect to this.

    This is my thread on my rebuild of the timing system , its a bit long winded but has some great info and links in it.

    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ighlight=wrote

    I am much more familiar now with the B8 P0016 than I am B7 as my son drives that car now and i have forgotten more things than i remember.

    The B8 has a way of monitoring the cam angle through VCDS, and how much adaption is going on so you can see how much the phaser is adapting the cam timing real time. It allows to monitor for chain stretch in that car as the chain is much longer.

    Im really not sure how you are measuring your cam angle on the B7 and so you can compare to a known good, but you are certainly old school and know your way around a scope which is how i used to do it .. If your base timing checks out there is no doubt you have a phase adpation issue , and its ony really dependedant on
    1. oil pressure
    2. The N205
    3. The oil screen in the timing cover
    5. The carbon graphite control rings in the timing cover
    6. The phaser.

    The most common cause is the broken rings in the timing cover IF static timing checks out.

    ..
    Last edited by Theiceman; 03-01-2021 at 05:51 PM.
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  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings tloft4's Avatar
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    damn where in pa are you? id love to find a mechanic this concerned with actually helping!

  17. #17
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    Hi,

    Thanks so much. I just had a friend here as a second set of eyes and we verified TDC is actually at the timing marks, everything is copesetic there. At this point I am still convinced its a static timing issue due to the scope measurements I took.

    I measured the cam angle in two ways, one using the autel scanner I have here at our shop and the other one was using the crank waveform as a reference and calculating angle based on the time domain and then using that to see the difference between where the cam should be and it measures to be.

    I'm with you on your list 100% but I just don't see how I could be so far out of cam angle if it wasnt a static timing issue, that phaser is only allows ~33 degrees of cam angle. Thoughts?

    My next move right at this moment is to back probe the camshaft sensor with the key on engine off and use that as a measuring tool to characterize the trigger wheel on the camshaft since I can't actually see it. I know its crazy but the only thing i can think of at this point is that trigger wheel being rotated.

    The carbon graphite control rings seemed ok, i staggered them just because. They werent collapsed but they also werent super sprung out. I will google checking the oil screen on the timing cover and maybe I should drop the oil pan?

    Thanks
    Chris

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    I'm in Altoona/Hollidaysburg area!

  19. #19
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    Iceman,

    I'm thoroughly embarrassed...I haven't tested but I am 99% I found the problem. Evidently....the cam lock tool, at least in my kit, allows the static timing to be out. The intake cam is just a TINY bit out, but it 100% corroborates the phasing of the cam gear we just characterized using the oscilloscope and turning the engine by hand. I will tear it back down tomorrow and use a dial indicator to make sure the camshafts are timed correctly. I REALLY thought a tooth on the sprocket should be way more obvious visual change than this.

    I guess the take away from this for me is not to be so trusting in special tools.

    Whew....

    Hopefully this will help those who have issues in the future and maybe even let folks feel a little better about making mistakes. Even a "professional" gets caught once in a while. It's been that kind of week, low on help all week and scheduled in anticipation of a normal crew. I guess another lesson learned, rushing NEVER is the answer.

    Thanks
    Chris

    IMG_1187.jpg

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    Yup.very very common..I am known for harping on people to not trust that tool for the reason you point out.
    The video link I sent you I thought was your issue.

    No reason to be embarrased, you sound like a solid tech. Just tell the whole story right off the bat next time.
    90% of troubleshooting is in the interview.
    Let us know how you make out.

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  21. #21
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    Thanks man! Will do. I saw COUNTLESS threads with the same problem I am having and they just die off with no solution. I figured, I need to eat crow here and at least hopefully help the next guy looking.

    Fun fact...I have 15 blow molded cases of engine specific timing tools and this is the first one to bite my butt. :/

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    We are not even 100% until you are done.
    Let's wait and see

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  23. #23
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    Success!

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    Nice work....

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  25. #25
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Same issue

    Quote Originally Posted by borderm3 View Post
    Success!
    I’m having same issue, did vcds show no phase position value for you as well? I’ve checked my chain and also belt timing 3 times. I know there is play in the cam lock tool. I also had the same thought as you that if chain timing was out that there would be a noticeable difference. Do you happen to have any pictures of cam lobes after repair?

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    Did you count the links or just use the tool. The tool is notoriously inaccurate

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