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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 11 2019
    AZ Member #
    521988
    Location
    Seattle

    2010 A4 Quattro 2.0T (B8) - Cylinder Compression

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    So my Audi has sat for like a month until I was able to verify timing the alignment marks....(Thought it jump time).
    Turns out all timing marks lined up perfectly! To which I breathed huge sigh of relief.

    Since I was under the hood anyway I did cylinder compression checks for general health of the engine.
    I did so on a cold engine...not sure if that was right or not.
    This is the result of that (cold engine) compression check:

    Cylinder #1: 95 PSI
    Cylinder #2: 75 PSI
    Cylinder #3: 70 PSI
    Cylinder #4: 75 PSI


    I don't have a manual for this car so its hard to find valid trustworthy information, (I was thinking it should be a higher reading)?
    Anyone know what the normal cylinder compression is supposed to be for these engines?
    Does it matter if the engine is cold or warm?
    Also what's the allowed (+/-) percentage between cylinders?
    I've read various articles that say it's anywhere from 10-20%?

    Car info:
    2010 Audi A4 Quattro 2.0T (B8) TFSI
    Currently 135,000 Miles
    Audi replaced the rings for excessive oil consumption roughly 3 yrs ago...my wife has driven it maybe 40K mile since that time to its current mileage.

    When I tested it I pulled the fuel injector C/B and depress the throttle all the way...not sure if there's anything else other then that?
    Any info would be awesome!

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Jul 16 2018
    AZ Member #
    422473
    Location
    Atlanta

    All the documentation can be had by paying for a day at erwin.audiusa.com and grabbing all the PDFs relevant to your car.

    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...1#post14249930
    2009 A4 Avant 2.0T quattro Prestige, 275k miles

  3. #3
    Senior Member Two Rings BradyBoi55's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 19 2020
    AZ Member #
    545709
    My Garage
    1994 Ford F-150, 1931 Ford Model A, 2007 BMW 650i
    Location
    Manchester/NH

    Quote Originally Posted by LarryCV7 View Post
    So my Audi has sat for like a month until I was able to verify timing the alignment marks....(Thought it jump time).
    Turns out all timing marks lined up perfectly! To which I breathed huge sigh of relief.

    Since I was under the hood anyway I did cylinder compression checks for general health of the engine.
    I did so on a cold engine...not sure if that was right or not.
    This is the result of that (cold engine) compression check:

    Cylinder #1: 95 PSI
    Cylinder #2: 75 PSI
    Cylinder #3: 70 PSI
    Cylinder #4: 75 PSI


    I don't have a manual for this car so its hard to find valid trustworthy information, (I was thinking it should be a higher reading)?
    Anyone know what the normal cylinder compression is supposed to be for these engines?
    Does it matter if the engine is cold or warm?
    Also what's the allowed (+/-) percentage between cylinders?
    I've read various articles that say it's anywhere from 10-20%?

    Car info:
    2010 Audi A4 Quattro 2.0T (B8) TFSI
    Currently 135,000 Miles
    Audi replaced the rings for excessive oil consumption roughly 3 yrs ago...my wife has driven it maybe 40K mile since that time to its current mileage.

    When I tested it I pulled the fuel injector C/B and depress the throttle all the way...not sure if there's anything else other then that?
    Any info would be awesome!

    Thanks in advance!
    Let the car warm up! So take it for a drive etc. the medal has to expand not just the coolant heat up. Then do another compression test

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by BradyBoi55 View Post
    Let the car warm up! So take it for a drive etc. the medal has to expand not just the coolant heat up. Then do another compression test
    Metal*

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by BradyBoi55 View Post
    Let the car warm up! So take it for a drive etc. the medal has to expand not just the coolant heat up. Then do another compression test
    Metal*

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Jul 16 2018
    AZ Member #
    422473
    Location
    Atlanta

    The process in the repair manual does mention:

    Engine oil temperature min. 30 ℃ (86 °F)
    2009 A4 Avant 2.0T quattro Prestige, 275k miles

  5. #5
    Senior Member Two Rings BradyBoi55's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 19 2020
    AZ Member #
    545709
    My Garage
    1994 Ford F-150, 1931 Ford Model A, 2007 BMW 650i
    Location
    Manchester/NH

    our oil operating temperature is around 200-215 normal driving. up to 250 if you are really beating on it. But try your best to get it to around 200. Engines work how they are designed to at operating temperature. That means all fluids are at the right temp and so are the metals.

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 11 2019
    AZ Member #
    521988
    Location
    Seattle

    I'd love to be able to however something is causing the car not to start.
    Thanks for your time with replying.

    At this time the car isn't able to be warmed up engine until my no start issue is resolved.
    Unsure at this point why its not starting. It cranks over just fine but will not start.

    I've installed a brand new fully charged battery...no issue
    I've ck'd the fuses...no issues found
    I've ck'd the air filter and inlet tube...no issues found
    I've inspected both the spark plugs and coils...no obvious issues found
    I've ck'd for spark...I get spark at the spark plug...no issue there
    As far as fuel is concerned...I turned the ignition to on...I can hear the LPFP power-up/cycle.

    How to get the actual fuel pressure...I have no idea?
    Can't get the car started for VCDS to read it...There's no discernable test port for testing the fuel pressure anywhere.
    If I have to buy a manual test kit then so be it but, where'd be the best place to tap the system to do so?

    Does that leave me with a timing or possibly bent valve(s)?

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