Finally got my DIY video for installing Lowering Springs uploaded! Please make sure you read through all the notes listed below, and remember to watch the video with the sound on. I had some major issues with my computer that delayed me from editing and uploading the video even though I actually did this install at the same time as my control arms. Anyways, I'll go through my normal stuff and have the link at the bottom. As always, please let me know your thoughts, tips, tricks, etc on things I did or that I missed so I can add it to the video notes.
While this video shows me installing H&R Sport Springs, the same steps can be followed to install Coilovers or Air struts. They would take even less time than doing springs.
This job is pretty easy with the right tools. I'd say each side of the front suspension should take about an hour. And then each side of the rears takes about a 1/2 hour. I was able to do it in 21 minutes on one side after I figured out the best way to go about it. So, in total, about a 3 hour job. You can do this job by yourself, but it would probably be a lot easier with a second set of hands.
Tools List:
-Impact gun (Not required, but makes life a bit easier)
-Impact Sockets
-Strut Spreader
-Various socket sizes (14mm, 16mm, & 18mm)
-Socket wrenches & Extensions
-Torque wrench
-16mm & 18mm wrenches
-Something you can use for tapping out stubborn bolts
-Hammer & Malet
-Work Light
-Jack + Jack Stands
-Foam pad for your knees is an awesome thing to have in the garage for jobs like this
-One 4ft long piece of 2x4... This is the key piece of equipment that will make life easy when doing the rear suspension installation. Trust me.
Noteworthy Information:
-My car has the OEM sport suspension, and the only thing I changed were the springs. Having the sport suspension, my shocks should do just fine for a while and it rides very comfortably. If your car doesn't have the OEM sport suspension, you may find that only changing the springs & lowering the car produces a less than ideal ride. Additionally, your shocks may blow more rapidly. If you don't have OEM sport suspension, it may be a wise decision to invest in some nice Bilstein or Koni shocks to go with your sport springs.
-I go over the torque specs in the video, but every Audi tech I talk to stresses that most of the control arm bolts need to be tightened as if you were trying to break them. C7's are notorious for noisy control arms if they aren't tightened extremely well.
-I was replacing my control arms so they were coming out no matter what. Having said that, it MIGHT be possible to do this job without completely removing the front lower control arm. If you unbolt and open the strut clamp with your strut spreader, then you might be able to maneuver it off the control arm if you have another person push down on the hub assembly. If anyone has any experience with this I'd love to hear it. Otherwise, you can remove the lower control arm as it isn't that big of a deal to do so or re-install it. In this video, I show the basic steps to removing the lower control arm, but if you want a more detailed & in depth video on removing it, then check out my DIY Control Arm video.
-In the video, the upper control arms have already been removed during the time I pulled out the strut assembly. It is not necessary to remove them if you are only lowering your car. The strut assembly will come out just fine.
-Make sure you install the lower/forward control arm bolts the same way they come out. There is one bolt that is near your tie rod end boot, and if you install it backwards, it will rub the boot and eventually tear a hole into it.
-Be sure measure the distance between your fender & the center of your axle (as I do in the video) on both sides so you know how far to jack up your hub when it is time to torque your bolts. You will need to know the amount your car will lower after installing the new suspension so you know how much distance to remove from your initial measurement. For example: Lets say your Fender to Axle measurement was 50". If you are installing Coilovers, and you know you will be lowering your front end 1.5", then you would subtract that from 50". That means, when you jack up your hub assembly to pre-load your suspension before torquing your control arm bolts (and Sway Bar Endlink bolt), you would need to lift it until you had a Fender to Axle measurement of 48.5".
-When I am installing the rear spring in the video I mention that I was able to do both sides in under a half hour. I misspoke, and meant to say I did each side of the rears in under an hour.
-Remember that it is always a good idea to replace any of the bolts you remove from the control arms/sway bar endlinks as some are stretch bolts. Even for those that aren't stretch bolts, it's not a bad idea to replace them anyways. Cheap insurance to make sure you have no clunking.
-The inner spring compressor that I used from Advance Auto Parts for the rears worked great, but the center bar that you thread through the clamps is far too long, so I had to use a hack saw and cut it to size. Obviously I couldn't return it, so it's my tool now, but it was worth it to be able to do the job so easily & quickly. I think it was 40$. If you go this route, just be sure you cut small amounts until you get the desired length. You don't want to accidentally cut too much and not be able to perform the job.
-In case you are someone who has never done a suspension install before, a word of warning: When you put the car back on its wheels and set it on the ground, it will likely look like it didn't lower at all. Once you release your parking brake, it will settle. It will continue to settle in the next few months of driving as well.
-Since you are messing with control arms, it is a good idea to get your car aligned and toe adjusted so the camber doesn't eat your tires.
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Originally Posted by choy188
for the video and for helping people!
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