
Originally Posted by
Bee8point5
Right so those are some good points. So to be clear, the procedure I was going to follow was jack up the car on 4 stands of equal height. Remove the covers. Use a second jack to 'support' the transmission before I remove the subframe. Then crack the fill bolt. Then crack the drain bolt. Then unbolt the (12 I think) bolts holding the pan to the transmission. Then remove the pan (believe the filter is part of the pan for this unit). Then use the ESC tuning kit to re-install a new gasket. Bolt back using cross bolting pattern. Replace drain bolt. Refill transmission by pumping fresh fluid in until it starts dripping out of the fill bolt. Repace fill bolt. Replacing rest of the bits and pieces...lower car.
The only think I am NOT clear on is temperatures and the procedure prior to driving???
Reason why is when my dad use to do his transmission fluid jobs [this was 30 years ago mind you] I think there was a step where you turn on the car and cycle back and forth between D/R/N/S a few times.
Frankly, I find transmissions MORE complicated that the easier stuff like Oil changes, coolant, rear diffs.
I find those jobs easy but transmissions I find complicated actually much more complicated.
I did the drain/refill with no filter change at 70k miles. I'll likely do a filter change around 130-140k miles. You need a vcds or obdeleven to read the ATF fluid temp to ensure you have the proper fill level.
After drain, fill the transmission until fluid weeps out of fill hole.
Start engine and continue to fill transmission.
Shift through P,R,N,D holding each one for 10 seconds.
Top off transmission again.
Monitor Transmission temp and put plug back in when ATF temp is between 35 and 45 C and ATF is weeping out of the fill hole. If ATF didn't weep out of the hole by the time it gets to 45C, the level is low. You can now turn off the engine.
Drop car back to ground and reset transmission adaptations if possible.
Log job in vehicle log book.
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