Audizine - An Automotive Enthusiast Community

Results 1 to 16 of 16
  1. #1
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Nov 17 2020
    AZ Member #
    573789
    Location
    Ohio USA

    Spongy brakes after brake job - Need Help

    Guest-only advertisement. Register or Log In now!
    I know I did a dumb thing so please dont judge need help before I start fixing the issue
    I bought an Audi A6 recently and after finding it needs brakes changed I got the new drilled rotors and replaced all my rotors and pads little did I know about the EPB when I tried putting my rear calipers on it would not go in so the mechanicc guy that I know said that they have brake tools that rotate the piston in and press it to retract the piston but because I did not have any I used pliers to rotate and C-Clamp to push the pistons in and got the job done.
    Now after that I had really s spongy brakes and I dont know what to do.

    I understand that I fucked up my caliper but did I also fuck up my servo motor ? Do any of you know someone who did similar dumb thing to their car ?

  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 21 2016
    AZ Member #
    388791
    Location
    NM

    I did my front pads by myself and a brake fluid change with a vacuum attachment. Ever since the change by myself, my brakes have also been spongy. Did the change 30k miles ago and no change. I have start and stop, since they are more spongy, the brake goes in more and it actuates the stop function sooner.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Audibot's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 20 2010
    AZ Member #
    59252
    Location
    Maryland

    Quote Originally Posted by Burnt View Post
    I did my front pads by myself and a brake fluid change with a vacuum attachment. Ever since the change by myself, my brakes have also been spongy. Did the change 30k miles ago and no change. I have start and stop, since they are more spongy, the brake goes in more and it actuates the stop function sooner.
    Maybe that's why my Stop/Start kicks in before I've made a complete stop...
    2016 A6 TDI Prestige - Tornado Gray. Malone Stage 2, DPF Delete, EGR blockoff, S6 F&R brakes, 034 RSB, RSNav S4, P3 v3 TDI gauge
    2003 RS 6 - Misano Red. AMD ECU/TCU tune, KW V3s, Hotchkis sway bars, Phaeton brake ducts, red carbon fiber trim
    2005 allroad 6MT swap - Alpaca Beige
    2003 allroad 6MT - Highland Green Metallic / Fern Green & Desert Green interior (1 of 15 max) - WIP
    2003 allroad 6MT - SOLD like a dumbass
    2007 A4 2.0T quattro - Gone but not forgotten

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Valpo A7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 27 2018
    AZ Member #
    432008
    My Garage
    2018 Jeep Wrangler JLU; 2015 Mas Ghibli SQ4; 2005 Gulfstream Motorhome
    Location
    Valparaiso, IN

    Quote Originally Posted by Mos2937 View Post
    I know I did a dumb thing so please dont judge need help before I start fixing the issue
    I bought an Audi A6 recently and after finding it needs brakes changed I got the new drilled rotors and replaced all my rotors and pads little did I know about the EPB when I tried putting my rear calipers on it would not go in so the mechanicc guy that I know said that they have brake tools that rotate the piston in and press it to retract the piston but because I did not have any I used pliers to rotate and C-Clamp to push the pistons in and got the job done.
    Now after that I had really s spongy brakes and I dont know what to do.

    I understand that I fucked up my caliper but did I also fuck up my servo motor ? Do any of you know someone who did similar dumb thing to their car ?
    Our cars have an electric emergency brake. If you forced them in with a c-clamp then chances are they are broke.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 16 2020
    AZ Member #
    564872
    Location
    West Michigan

    2012 A6 Prestige - APR single pulley via Fluidampr 189, Injen intake+RS7 airbox, IE HPFP, EPL TCU, JHM HX, 034 motor mounts, Eurocode drivetrain inserts, gutted cats - 034 tunes purchased, not installed.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings Valpo A7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 27 2018
    AZ Member #
    432008
    My Garage
    2018 Jeep Wrangler JLU; 2015 Mas Ghibli SQ4; 2005 Gulfstream Motorhome
    Location
    Valparaiso, IN

    Quote Originally Posted by sepheroth86 View Post
    That is for the whole caliper and servo. You can get the servo by itself for $40 on ebay listed as new. Until it gets torn down to inspect what is what, its all speculation at this point.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Valpo A7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 27 2018
    AZ Member #
    432008
    My Garage
    2018 Jeep Wrangler JLU; 2015 Mas Ghibli SQ4; 2005 Gulfstream Motorhome
    Location
    Valparaiso, IN

    Simply retracting the caliper piston will not cause a spongy brake, something else is going on here. Chances are that the OP damaged the piston with the pliers but without seeing it its hard to say if he damaged it to the point of compromising the piston seal. If the seal is compromised then it should allow brake fluid leakage around the piston seal. If that is what is going on then the caliper needs replaced or rebuilt.

    Its possible that simply bleeding the brake will get rid of the sponge feeling. I have done plenty of brakes in my lifetime and I can say I have not needed a brake bleed except 1 or 3 times and that was only because I had to disconnect lines for caliper or wheel cylinder replacement. Simply changing pads/rotors should not need to make you bleed brakes.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings JWebb_C7_Comp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 11 2018
    AZ Member #
    412335
    My Garage
    Civic, A6, Q7
    Location
    Chi-Burbs

    Quote Originally Posted by Valpo A7 View Post
    Simply retracting the caliper piston will not cause a spongy brake, something else is going on here. Chances are that the OP damaged the piston with the pliers but without seeing it its hard to say if he damaged it to the point of compromising the piston seal. If the seal is compromised then it should allow brake fluid leakage around the piston seal. If that is what is going on then the caliper needs replaced or rebuilt.

    Its possible that simply bleeding the brake will get rid of the sponge feeling. I have done plenty of brakes in my lifetime and I can say I have not needed a brake bleed except 1 or 3 times and that was only because I had to disconnect lines for caliper or wheel cylinder replacement. Simply changing pads/rotors should not need to make you bleed brakes.
    Would it make sense to get something like Carista or OBD11, activate the rear e bake, remove pads and look for sign that seal on one of the real caliper pistons is actually leaking... to me, that’s low cost and ma identify the issue. New or rebuild caliper might be next.... yikes!


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 23 2018
    AZ Member #
    419337
    Location
    SoCA

    OBD11 will be a great tool for this. Yes, you should inspect!
    2016 A6 TDI Prestige: OEM RS4 Rims 20", Alcon Mono 6 Front BBK, S6 Rear Rotors, SS Brakelines, Koni Special Active Dampers, Eibach Pro Springs, H&R Swaybars F/R

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings Valpo A7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 27 2018
    AZ Member #
    432008
    My Garage
    2018 Jeep Wrangler JLU; 2015 Mas Ghibli SQ4; 2005 Gulfstream Motorhome
    Location
    Valparaiso, IN

    If you are going to turn your own wrenches on an Audi then you really should invest in VCDS, Carista, or OBD11.


    For the rear brakes there is another option on the table in that you can simply unplug the servos and physically remove them from the car. THEN you can run them in with a c-clamp like normal. Just do not turn the car back on until you get the servos back on the caliper and hooked up.

    If you get a tool like I listed at the beginning then you will still likely have to retract the caliper a bit once the servos are run out of the way in order to get the new pads on the new or old rotors. That is simply a push them back in process, no need to twist them in or at least I did not have to do that on my 12 A7.

  11. #11
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Nov 17 2020
    AZ Member #
    573789
    Location
    Ohio USA

    Update - I bought an OBD-II scanner initiated the EPB mode (I can hear the motors whirring in the rear) to retract the pistons and then ended the lining change mode (again I can hear the motors whirring) but the spongy brakes still exist. I can brake fine but just not as efficiently or maybe its just because of that spongy feeling. I tried engaging the E-Brake and then pushing the car (while in neutral) it does not move so I am at a loss here to what happened. Ordered used calipers off of ebay with air shipping it says was pulled out of a 2014 A6 with 60K miles (not believing but they look new). I will be replacing them this weekend will let you guys know what turned out to be the issue

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings Vinng86's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 20 2018
    AZ Member #
    422758
    Location
    Toronto, ON

    Quote Originally Posted by Mos2937 View Post
    Update - I bought an OBD-II scanner initiated the EPB mode (I can hear the motors whirring in the rear) to retract the pistons and then ended the lining change mode (again I can hear the motors whirring) but the spongy brakes still exist. I can brake fine but just not as efficiently or maybe its just because of that spongy feeling. I tried engaging the E-Brake and then pushing the car (while in neutral) it does not move so I am at a loss here to what happened. Ordered used calipers off of ebay with air shipping it says was pulled out of a 2014 A6 with 60K miles (not believing but they look new). I will be replacing them this weekend will let you guys know what turned out to be the issue
    Have you tried bleeding your brakes? Checked for leakage of the brake lines? Spongy brakes can happen if there is air in your brake fluid since air is compressible.

    Also, when you compressed your pistons did you open the cap for the brake fluid? Last time I did mine, I had to remove a few ounces of brake fluid.
    2014 Audi A6 3.0T Technik(Prestige) S-line w/ Black Optics

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings Valpo A7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 27 2018
    AZ Member #
    432008
    My Garage
    2018 Jeep Wrangler JLU; 2015 Mas Ghibli SQ4; 2005 Gulfstream Motorhome
    Location
    Valparaiso, IN

    As Vinng86 says, BLEED THE OLD ONES FIRST. I would recommend a 4 corner bleed as well. If they are still spongy after that then replace.

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings JWebb_C7_Comp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 11 2018
    AZ Member #
    412335
    My Garage
    Civic, A6, Q7
    Location
    Chi-Burbs

    Quote Originally Posted by Vinng86 View Post
    Have you tried bleeding your brakes? Checked for leakage of the brake lines? Spongy brakes can happen if there is air in your brake fluid since air is compressible.

    Also, when you compressed your pistons did you open the cap for the brake fluid? Last time I did mine, I had to remove a few ounces of brake fluid.
    Is your fluid topped-up? As other wave said, bleeding COULD be the next cheapest solution.

    Also, did you see any leakage around piston seals at current rear calipers or the lines..

    Hate to see you install new calipers if they’re not the real problem, despite that everyone loves shinny new parts.




    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Three Rings GilliamOS's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 26 2015
    AZ Member #
    334305
    My Garage
    2013 A6 3.0T Prestige | 2013 Elantra GT
    Location
    Mormon Country

    One tip I haven't seen in this thread when bleeding is rapping on the caliper near the bleeder valve with a dead-blow or hard rubber mallet to vibrate stuck air out of the piston chamber. It's surprisingly effective.
    2013 A6 3.0T - Slightly better than poverty package.

    Past:
    2009 A4 2.0T Avant - Totaled
    2000 A4 1.8T - Sold
    1999 Millenia S - Sold, though it should've been crushed 'n cubed
    1997 A4 1.8T - Totaled, repaired, sold years later better than before
    1990 Maxima - Totaled from hail dents
    1987 Maxima - Sold
    1986 Golf Diesel - Rusted and fell apart

  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 18 2016
    AZ Member #
    371983
    Location
    Atlanta, GA

    I also say you should bleed your brakes. I overextended my EPB on accident, realized what happened, fixed it and put everything back. I had a very spongy pedal. A couple weeks went by and the sponginess was still there. Did a 4 wheel brake bleed with a Motive bleeder and that rear caliper hade air in it, granted it wasnt very much. After this, my car brakes like OEM.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


    © 2001-2025 Audizine, Audizine.com, and Driverzines.com
    Audizine is an independently owned and operated automotive enthusiast community and news website.
    Audi and the Audi logo(s) are copyright/trademark Audi AG. Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG.