I've had my Devil's Own/VAST Performance WMI kit for a long time.. Something like 10+ years, maybe closer to 12. Over that time I went through two faulty controllers where I couldn't get the pump to start spraying at the right PSI based on the settings, then in the past two years due to tuning changes I took out the 2.5bar MAP controller and swapped in the 3bar controller, but was still facing issues with it not really coming on when I wanted it to. I was going to try to switch back to a DVC-30 controller which is their controller based on an internal map sensor that you run a boost reference to, but they have been incredibly hard to get a hold of over the past few months (COVID, I get it for a small biz). I was also a little disappointed that right after buying/installing the 3bar controller and still not having luck, they wouldn't swap for their DVC-30 back when they had them in stock early in 2019. Anyway... If you're in a similar spot and you're looking for another controller solution the good news is that you can wire up an AEM WMI controller to the pump and carry on.
The AEM controller is mostly straightforward, but there were a few things that I got snagged on that I wanted to share. The instructions for the kit can be found on their site - linked here. I linked to their whole "kit" instructions because the one for the controller alone doesn't have any of the fault code references which can be helpful.
1) The wiring schematic is easy to follow, except their phrase of the "ARM switch" needing switched 12V power. Prior to realizing something was off, I had connected both pump wires, the controller constant and ground, but wasn't getting the controller to turn on. Once I realized that they are calling the ARM switch just your switched 12V power source and hooked it up to 75X under the knee bolster, I was good to go.
2A) Their harness has a bunch of wires on it.. Some of which you won't use. I personally find their controller to be really bulky compared to the Devil's Own one and I can't see how you can cleanly run a boost reference to the cabin without it being hidden under the bolster so I buried my controller behind the fuse panel. With that said - I bought their external LED and have that up in the cabin to ensure the pump is spraying when I want it to. Note: You don't have to buy their LED, any two-wire LED will work as they have provisions for LED negative and positive on their harness. Again, if you find a better place to stuff the controller then you won't need this, but personally even if you run this to the glovebox in my opinion you'd still want some sort of indicator right in front of you that the pump is working when you're under throttle.
2B) If you're not running a level sensor for whatever reason, you'll have to short the white and brown wires together or you'll get a flashing red error code on the controller. I was getting this in addition to what I'm going to mention below and seriously thought something was about to blow up!
Lastly - and something I was not used to - was the AEM controller has this short circuit monitoring system that runs low voltage through the pump when your key is cycled. As I said above, I honestly thought something was about to pop. I had never heard the noise that the pump was making before, so I just thought something was done incorrectly. This is a "feature" and something that monitors the pump to ensure there are no shorts along the circuit and that you're good to go. It is a feature that can be turned off, but they said it is designed to be run and there is no harm to the pump getting this voltage all of the time.
One of my favorite things about the controller is the test feature which prior to when I got curious about testing the system I'd have to cut a wire and manually ground it or give it power so I like that this has this functionality built right in. Super convenient.
Just thought I'd share if anyone else is in a similar situation.
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Originally Posted by S4James
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