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  1. #1
    Senior Member Three Rings slacktide's Avatar
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    New product: Steering Column Gauge Pod for Aeroforce Interceptor

    Guest-only advertisement. Register or Log In now!
    I wanted to add an Aeroforce gauge, but couldn’t find a good way to mount it on the steering column. The Podi housing is no longer available and took a lot of work to make fit anyway. So, I designed one, and it's available for sale on Shapeways.com

    You can modify your own column trim or buy a spare on EBay pretty cheap.





    These gauge pods are 3D printed out of Nylon PA12, on an HP Jet Fusion 4200 printer. It’s like a quarter million dollar machine, I soooo want one, lol. It is heat stable up to 347°F, unlike hobby grade 3D printed parts which will sag in hot sun.

    Shapeways is handling all the ordering, manufacturing, shipping, and customer service, so after their cut I’m able to offer these for sale to the group at $65 plus shipping, which I think is a pretty good deal! I promise to squander all the proceeds on cool stuff for my car. If there are any players in the house, I can have them made from 14K gold for $13,000 or pure platinum for $26,880.

    These are manufactured to-order. They typically like to fill the machine with a bunch of different types of parts using the same material before they run it, and there is some manual processing afterward, so it takes a few weeks between when you place your order and when it is shipped. Your patience will be rewarded.

    I designed and tested this on a LHD car. I think it would fit a RHD car as well, but don’t have one to check. Roll the dice or research the trim part numbers.

    I can also make a matching right-hand pod. It looks like Aeroforce might support dual gauges but you’d have to check with them to be sure. The right-hand pod would block a little portion of the speedo. The first person who wants one will need to buy it from me directly, after you give the thumbs up, I can add it to the web store.

    Installation instructions:

    Step 1 – Gather your parts and tools.

    Parts:

    Gauge Pod – Order from Shapeways.com https://www.shapeways.com/product/UZPDQGGYY
    Gauge - Order from Aeroforce https://www.aeroforcetech.com/produc...r_audi_vw.html
    4x #6-32 x 1/2” long machine screws - https://www.amazon.com/Available-Mac...dp/B07ZH52LGJ/
    4X #6-32 set screws - https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-91.../dp/B07FG236LF
    Optional – Spare steering column trim 8K0-953-515-A. Check eBay, sometimes it gets sold as a package with 8K0-858-345 flexible trim.

    Tools:

    Ultra Fine Sharpie
    Masking tape – 3M #2093 or equivalent (needs to be 1 7/16” or 1.41” wide) https://www.amazon.com/ScotchBlue-Sh...dp/B004DEJ6XG/
    Screwdrivers
    ¼” Socket
    #6-32 tap - https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-80213-6...dp/B0006V6MNW/
    1/16” Allen wrench
    Drill bit for 5/32 and 7/16” holes


    Step 2 – Remove the steering column trim

    Unlock the adjuster under the steering column and move the steering wheel all the way back and down.
    Turn the steering wheel 90° to the left.
    Use a small screwdriver to gently push in and disengage the locking tab.



    Rotate the steering wheel the same amount to the right and disengage the tab on the other side.
    Lift the column trim off the column.
    Remove the flexible skirt from the column trim buy pushing the tabs at the end of the retainer outward, and working your way to the barbs at the center.

    Step 3 – Drill holes for the screws and wire in the steering column trim

    Line up a strip of 1.41” (1 7/16”) wide masking tape along the edge of the trim. 3M #2093 was the perfect size.



    Use a #6-32 tap to cut threads in the pre-printed holes in the pod. A drill can be used if you go really slow, but be careful not to go too deep or you will poke holes through the side of the pod, especially in the corner shown.



    Remove the nuts and washers from the back of the Aeroforce gauge.



    Temporarily install the gauge in the pod using the nuts and washers that game with the gauge. Tighten the nuts by hand only, just enough that you can still rotate the angle of the gauge by hand.



    With the column trim and the gauge face on a flat surface, test fit the pod by aligning the corner of the pod with the edge of the tape. The pod should fit nice and tight against the contour of the column trim.



    Insert the 6-32 set screws unto the threaded holes using an Allen key. Adjust them so that they are just barely sticking out past the surface of the pod. We will use the set screws to transfer the position of the holes to the column trim.



    Align the corner of the pod with the tape mark as you did during the test fit. Gently rock/wiggle the pod against the trim to mark the position of the set screws. Use a sharpie marker to make the marks more visible if necessary. Use a slip of paper folded in half to make an additional mark halfway between the back two markings. This will be a location for a hole for the wire harness.



    Drill the four screw holes out to 5/32, and the wire hole out to 7/16”. A step drill works great for this. The one on top is a stupidly expensive cobalt-chromium one that can cut Titanium. The one on the bottom was just a few dollars on Amazon. Both get the job done fine in plastic.



    Remove the set screws and install the pod on the trim with four #6-32, ½” long machine screws.



    Sit back and admire your work.





    It’s a perfect fit to the OEM trim because I 3D scanned the original part.



    I built a homemade 3D scanner from an old Xbox 360 Kinect sensor and an iPad mini. The software was Skanect for the scanning, and Spacedesk Server for the remote display on the iPad. 3D surface reconstruction and solid modelling was done in Dassault CATIA V5.





    I was prepared to sand, prime, and finish the pod but I think it’s actually a pretty dang good match as-is. If you want to go nuts, I recommend sanding, high-build primer, wet-sanding, and then top-coating with Ultra Flat Black Camouflage paint from either Rustoleum or Krylon. It’s a near perfect match to Audi trim.



    Step 4 – Install the modified trim

    You will need to temporarily remove the gauge from the pod so you can install the wire harness.
    Snap the flexible skirt back into the steering column trim, starting at the outside tabs and working to the center.
    Route the wire harness from the OBDII port to the steering column, then into the gauge pod, and connect it to the gauge. Install the gauge in the pod and secure with the nuts and washers, being careful not to pinch or disconnect the wire. It’s snug but it will fit, take your time.
    Install the steering column trim by first hooking into the tabs at the back, then carefully engaging the tabs at the front.



    I was careful to design these so that they do not block the adjustability of the steering column at all, like some other pods like this do. From my seating position, it doesn’t block the DIS display or any important parts of the tachometer either.



    Last edited by slacktide; 10-18-2020 at 07:35 PM.
    1993 Audi 90 Quattro 2.8 5MT - Sold with 245,000 miles on it.
    2002 Audi A4 Avant Quattro 3.0 6MT - Retired commuter, Dog Car, Costco runner, Snowmobile.
    2014 Audi S4 Quattro Sport Diff 6MT - Daily Driver. CR-15, Chipwerke, minor cosmetic mods. Eventually I'll get around to the audio build.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings jimrobbington's Avatar
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    Dec 03 2008
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    2018 SQ5
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    Castle Rock, Colorado

    Super cool dude! I love these style pods. Luckily I scored a podi before they gave up. Good luck!

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    2021 Audi S4, P34 Intake

  3. #3
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    This is awesome work man. How does this gauge compare to the P3?

    edit: nvm I did my research and this gauge seems way more capable than the P3. I'm probably going to give this setup a go.
    Last edited by 5moremins; 10-19-2020 at 03:35 PM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Three Rings slacktide's Avatar
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    Big fan of the gauge. Very responsive, a lot of ways to set up the display, and the price was right. Only one note, their website doesn't do a very good job showing the display color options. https://www.aeroforcetech.com/images.html

    The one I have here is their black and white display - I'd say it's closer to Bluish-White and Blueish-Black. It's actually a little whiter IRL than my pics. Wish they had a full color OLED version, those are cheap enough these days.

    I got it with the standard bezel and carbon fiber face - honestly, the carbon pattern is kind of cheezy up close, I'm going to try hydro-dipping one of the spare faces they give you with a nicer pattern. Also, I forgot to ask them to add the S logo, so I found these embossed foil decals on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-Audi-Ste...O/174050571927
    Last edited by slacktide; 10-19-2020 at 06:59 PM.
    1993 Audi 90 Quattro 2.8 5MT - Sold with 245,000 miles on it.
    2002 Audi A4 Avant Quattro 3.0 6MT - Retired commuter, Dog Car, Costco runner, Snowmobile.
    2014 Audi S4 Quattro Sport Diff 6MT - Daily Driver. CR-15, Chipwerke, minor cosmetic mods. Eventually I'll get around to the audio build.

  5. #5
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Thanks I was looking for pictures of the colors. I ended up ordering the black and white too.

    Maybe you could try a carbon fiber wrap?

  6. #6
    Senior Member Three Rings slacktide's Avatar
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    Wrap might work, but it has some tight corners so it would be tricky. You'll see when you get yours, and thanks for the order! I've always wanted to try hydrodipping, I bet it's a great way to finish 3D printed parts. I just ordered this stuff and the other supplies from Amazon, take a look at the pics in people's reviews.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G5HBZHW
    1993 Audi 90 Quattro 2.8 5MT - Sold with 245,000 miles on it.
    2002 Audi A4 Avant Quattro 3.0 6MT - Retired commuter, Dog Car, Costco runner, Snowmobile.
    2014 Audi S4 Quattro Sport Diff 6MT - Daily Driver. CR-15, Chipwerke, minor cosmetic mods. Eventually I'll get around to the audio build.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    might just be ordering one of these. as far as hydro dipping tbh this is a pretty simple insert design, why not just buy a sheet of flat cured carbon fiber and drill the small holes and file the rest to shape? seems like total time invested would be similar to setting up a whole hydro rig just to have another fake flat cf pattern. alternatively a wrap.

    side note, these guages are small and the base is large, a rear exit hole for cables and completely flat bottom for 3m double sided tape would be a good alternative to drilling the oem shifter. the base is hidden enough from both passenger and driver view that i doubt the foam tape would be very visible, and a rework to add a slight recess for the tape could make it totally invisible. that 3m grey vhb tape is no joke, it's what's holding most car emblems and everyones rear splitters on. good stuff as long as you prep both surfaces to be totally clean.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Three Rings slacktide's Avatar
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    The face has a a bezel molded into it. You could always spray it flat black and make an overlay with cutout from flat real CF, might look good! There’s a clear plastic lens that goes over the face, helps give an illusion of depth as well.

    IMG_0474.JPG

    You know, I did consider VHB tape, but I didn’t have any experience with it sticking to raw nylon long-term, and I didn’t want it falling off on anyone. If you get the thin (45 mil) VHB, it should conform to the curvature just fine. Maybe a light coat of plastic adhesion promoter on the nylon first would help? Worst that happens is it falls off and you have to bolt it on.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    1993 Audi 90 Quattro 2.8 5MT - Sold with 245,000 miles on it.
    2002 Audi A4 Avant Quattro 3.0 6MT - Retired commuter, Dog Car, Costco runner, Snowmobile.
    2014 Audi S4 Quattro Sport Diff 6MT - Daily Driver. CR-15, Chipwerke, minor cosmetic mods. Eventually I'll get around to the audio build.

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Jun 15 2020
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    i just bought a pod...i have been looking at the p3 guages...but i have one on my b6 passat...and its ok...this pod and the guage seem to be a much better solution...thanks for the hardwork and product!

  10. #10
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    I received my guage and pod and am currently finishing up the install. I decided to give using high-temp velcro a try so that it's easily removable. I'll post pics once I wrap everything up.

    @slacktide did you have to use the extra connector for external power? Using only the OBDII cable, it works fine but does not power off with the car...

    Also - the pod install does look great and definitely doesn't need to be painted. You have to inspect the part very closely to be able to tell it was 3D printed; it has virtually no visible layers.

  11. #11
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Update on the powering off issue: It has now both powered off correctly and stayed on; both after tuning the car off, exiting, and closing the door. No idea why it works sometimes and not others. I'm going to email Aeroforce about it but I think I may just wire it up for external power attached to an accessory fuse just to be sure. I don't want to have to worry about my battery being dead in between drives.

    On the actual install:

    Since I opted for mounting the pod with hook/loop tape, I had to make a hole for the wiring. A 1/2" bit worked perfectly:
    PXL_20201027_202250462.jpg

    I bought high temperature resistant 3M hook/loop tape to secure the pod the trim. I cut pieces with scissors to fit the available surface on the bottom of the pod:
    PXL_20201027_202908281.jpg

    I was able to snake the cable behind the dash trim without needing to remove anything. Just send the small end up from the middle of the bottom of the trim above the pedals, to the bottom of the steering column. Once you have it, you can guide it to entry points of the trim you prefer.

    Pod with cable attached and other side of the hook/loop adhered to the steering column trim. It was just a matter of cutting the opposite pieces to fit, sticking them together while leaving the film on, dry fitting to find the right spot, removing the film, and finally pressing down. I left it for a few mins before removing the pod again.
    PXL_20201027_204807207.jpg

    Overcast daylight, brightness set to high:
    PXL_20201027_205314833.jpg

    Same, brightness set to low:
    PXL_20201027_205714022.jpg

    Finally, some other angles of how the finished install looks:
    PXL_20201027_210101980.jpgPXL_20201027_210112915.jpgPXL_20201027_210134362.jpg

    Overall very easy to install this way and I don't mind the cable at all. I'll probably never notice it again.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Three Rings slacktide's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5moremins View Post
    I received my guage and pod and am currently finishing up the install. I decided to give using high-temp velcro a try so that it's easily removable. I'll post pics once I wrap everything up.

    @slacktide did you have to use the extra connector for external power? Using only the OBDII cable, it works fine but does not power off with the car...

    Also - the pod install does look great and definitely doesn't need to be painted. You have to inspect the part very closely to be able to tell it was 3D printed; it has virtually no visible layers.
    Glad you like it, your install looks great! I’m running directly off the OBD port. The screen shuts off about 30 seconds after you close the doors, and re-activates when you open them. Don’t know if you’ve ever noticed, but when you open the door it wakes up the engine, primes the LP fuel pump, and sends a signal to start the electric coolant pump.
    1993 Audi 90 Quattro 2.8 5MT - Sold with 245,000 miles on it.
    2002 Audi A4 Avant Quattro 3.0 6MT - Retired commuter, Dog Car, Costco runner, Snowmobile.
    2014 Audi S4 Quattro Sport Diff 6MT - Daily Driver. CR-15, Chipwerke, minor cosmetic mods. Eventually I'll get around to the audio build.

  13. #13
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by slacktide View Post
    Glad you like it, your install looks great! I’m running directly off the OBD port. The screen shuts off about 30 seconds after you close the doors, and re-activates when you open them. Don’t know if you’ve ever noticed, but when you open the door it wakes up the engine, primes the LP fuel pump, and sends a signal to start the electric coolant pump.
    Thanks!

    Yes, it does appear to be shutting off successfully now, there is just a delay sometimes. I did not set it up for external power; just kept the normal obd setup.

    Also, I noticed the user manual states "Under rare circumstances the gauge may not see the data bus shut down and will timeout and shut off after 10 minutes". It must have been under 10 mins the time I thought otherwise...

    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

  14. #14
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5moremins View Post

    I was able to snake the cable behind the dash trim without needing to remove anything. Just send the small end up from the middle of the bottom of the trim above the pedals, to the bottom of the steering column. Once you have it, you can guide it to entry points of the trim you prefer.

    Pod with cable attached and other side of the hook/loop adhered to the steering column trim. It was just a matter of cutting the opposite pieces to fit, sticking them together while leaving the film on, dry fitting to find the right spot, removing the film, and finally pressing down. I left it for a few mins before removing the pod again.
    PXL_20201027_204807207.jpg

    Overall very easy to install this way and I don't mind the cable at all. I'll probably never notice it again.
    I did this install the same way...following most of the steps...turned out pretty good!...thank you!

    Can i ask which boost setting you used for the parameters...there arr two choices I believe...boost inhg and boost spc...which is the correct one?

  15. #15
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boost112 View Post
    I did this install the same way...following most of the steps...turned out pretty good!...thank you!

    Can i ask which boost setting you used for the parameters...there arr two choices I believe...boost inhg and boost spc...which is the correct one?
    No problem, glad it helped.

    The two available boost params to display are boost actual and boost specified. Which I "think" is actual vs what the ECU is requesting. Maybe someone else could chime in?

    See the user manual here which includes a full params list: https://www.aeroforcetech.com/files/...AL_rev_6.0.pdf

    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5moremins View Post
    No problem, glad it helped.

    The two available boost params to display are boost actual and boost specified. Which I "think" is actual vs what the ECU is requesting. Maybe someone else could chime in?

    See the user manual here which includes a full params list: https://www.aeroforcetech.com/files/...AL_rev_6.0.pdf

    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
    Just to close the loop...i ran both...and they were pretty much the same reading...so i just run it in "Boost inhg"...seems pretty accurate...for a stock car i see 10 psi...with the highest i have seen at 11psi...so it seems spot on!

    Overall very happy with both the pod and guage...and much better than the p3guage...thanks again!

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings scmtkings4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boost112 View Post
    Just to close the loop...i ran both...and they were pretty much the same reading...so i just run it in "Boost inhg"...seems pretty accurate...for a stock car i see 10 psi...with the highest i have seen at 11psi...so it seems spot on!

    Overall very happy with both the pod and guage...and much better than the p3guage...thanks again!
    What boost are you guys seeing at idle? It looks like I'm seeing negative values constantly. Not sure if i have this set up correctly.


    Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
    2014 S5

    AWE Touring Exhaust l ECS Intake l EPL Dual Pulley 93 l AMS Alpha Cooler

  18. #18
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    You shouldn't see any boost at idle. Those negative values are normal.

    You have to be accelerating to get into boost.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings scmtkings4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5moremins View Post
    You shouldn't see any boost at idle. Those negative values are normal.

    You have to be accelerating to get into boost.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
    Right, was just wondering what values you guys were seeing. I'm showing negative 17-18 range.

    Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
    2014 S5

    AWE Touring Exhaust l ECS Intake l EPL Dual Pulley 93 l AMS Alpha Cooler

  20. #20
    Junior Member Two Rings WC 13's Avatar
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    STAY AWAY FROM THIS COMPANY!!! I can not stress this enough.
    These guages do not work as intended!!
    I'll share my experience, first of all I bought a single guage due to the fact they had no ethanol readers in stock plus a dual pod. I received a single guage and a single pod which I got to send back and received my original order of a dual pod. In the meantime they re stocked the ethanol readers and I ordered a second guage and a cable to power both. I installed everything to find one guage didn't work and just displayed lines down the screen so I wrote to them to let them know and instead of sending a new guage that works they wanted me to send the broken one back on my dollar so they can try to fix it knowing i just bought them. I bought another guage since I don't have the time to ship things back and forth on my dollar so they can fix their issues and planned to ship back later but needed working guages now. I received the new guage re installed everything plugged in the guages and they both turn on and off constantly while driving. I wrote to them to find out the guages won't work as a pair and I need to uninstall everything and send them both back so they can be programed to work together on my dollar and wait for them to get fixed before installing again for a 3rd time.
    I live in Canada so I'm expected to pay for shipping and duty to receive the items working or not working then expected to ship back again paying for shipping and duty to get them to work, I will then have to pay shipping and duty to have them shipped back to me. I will then have to install everything yet again and hope everything works as it should have when it originally left Aeroforce.
    This company is a complete disaster and has the biggest revolving door known to man since everything that leaves there needs to be sent right back so they can figure out why it doesn't work.
    SAVE YOURSELF TIME AND EFFORT BY JUST BUYING GUAGES FROM A REPUTABLE COMPANY THAT STANDS BEHIND THEIR PRODUCTS!!
    Unless you enjoy installing and uninstalling shipping guages back and forth until your purple then this company is perfect for you.
    Just to show how fuct this company is, when you do buy a dual guage set up they send you a cable to power up a single guage not a cable to power 2 guages and they will not work as a pair unless you specifically ask. Even then I wouldn't count on it.
    AGAIN PLEASE SAVE YOURSELF TIME AND MONEY, JUST STAY AWAY FROM AEROFORCE GUAGES.

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