Fuel pump Bosch 044

[flo94]

Hi all, I tried today to fit Bosch 044 in the fuel tank without success. I know it is for external use but I had to try 😃 Apparently i will have to fit it somewhere on external place. The thing is that the hose to the fuel rail is on 6 mm and 044 requires 8 mm hose, i can connect both diameters but because of the high debit of 044 the 6 mm hose will explode. I can stretch 8 mm hose from the fuel rail to the tank but this is a work for days (gearbox, cardan, differential and fuel tank need to be disassemble) and I do not have the time to do it. My question is: is there someone who managed to fit 044 in the tank and how it was done? or is there a fuel pump who can be fit directly in the tank on 6 mm hose and can supply fuel for about 500hp. Maybe Quantum or Walbro should do the job? Any other suggestions are well welcomed. Thank you in advance!

[seanf86]

Hi all, I tried today to fit Bosch 044 in the fuel tank without success. I know it is for external use but I had to try 😃 Apparently i will have to fit it somewhere on external place. The thing is that the hose to the fuel rail is on 6 mm and 044 requires 8 mm hose, i can connect both diameters but because of the high debit of 044 the 6 mm hose will explode. I can stretch 8 mm hose from the fuel rail to the tank but this is a work for days (gearbox, cardan, differential and fuel tank need to be disassemble) and I do not have the time to do it. My question is: is there someone who managed to fit 044 in the tank and how it was done? or is there a fuel pump who can be fit directly in the tank on 6 mm hose and can supply fuel for about 500hp. Maybe Quantum or Walbro should do the job? Any other suggestions are well welcomed. Thank you in advance!

I'm using a walbro 450 pump in a stock basket and it fit in the tank no problem.I'm running a return line to the tank on a 2.7 swapped A4 running k04s. I'm fairly certain the 450 supports 500hp

[Seerlah]

If you have the fuel pump basket from the US B6 A4, the Bosch 040 will fit. The Bosch 044 I don't think anybody has been able to make work inside of the fuel tank, so they either run it in series with the stock pump or with a sump kit (utilizing the stock pump to fill the sump). If you have a fuel pump basket from the US B7 A4, not sure how to assist there.

Here is what the US B6 A4 fuel pump looks like: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ly/8e0906087p/

If you have the basket that looks like the one in the link above, the more common smaller pumps that utilize a sleeve to stay in place will work just fine. Just modify the basket to make it fit. For example, here is what a Walbro 450 looks like in the stock basket (B5, but you get the idea) with the bottom cut out to accommodate fitment. The a sleeve is used to hold it in place. Just know the Walbro 450 is a pretty powerful pump, so research the pros and cons (causes fueling issues with a couple people who run it, due to the return from the FPR not being able to bleed off the excess pressure quick enough. you will also want to run direct 10 gauge wire with 30A relay from the battery to the pump. then use the power going to the pump for the coil on the relay, so it operates on turn key function). The Walbro 450 is just one option, but there are many others.

[flo94]

Ok, thanks for clarifications!

So if I choose to go on with the Bosch 044, I will have to fit it for example before the fuel filter and run it in series with the stock pump which will feed the 044. My question is whether the stock fuel lines will handle the debit of 044 which requires 8mm hose and the stock ones are 6 mm otherwise there is a probability the lines can literally explode because of the high debit? I know that the stock fuel lines have debit for up to 400-420 hp but had to clarify to be sure? Also I would like to ask if I run it without the sump kit, lets say currently I have around 380 hp, is it possible, at some point at high rpm, the 044 to stay "dry" because the stock one can handle max 300 hp?

Second option with the Walbro is pretty straight forward.

I apologize if in some places I do not express myself correctly from mechanical point of view!
Thanks!

[Seerlah]

I run a Bosch 044 currently in tank in my B5. The Bosch 040 can fit in the stock B6 basket, as long as it looks like the one in the ECS Tuning link. The Walbro 450 pictured above is also mine, not yet installed. Once again, if wanting to run the Walbro 450 to learn the pros and cons in case you run into the same scenario many other's do. One of the most dangerous ones, running the stock wire to power the pump. The fuel cools down the wires when it is submerged. But when the wires are not submerged (tank lower), things get hot...sitting in a concealed tub of fuel. Put the two together and picture a bad day. Only reason I want to swap that pump out if I have plans to run e85 (engine bay conversion done already) and the Bosch 044 is not an e85 compatible pump. Some sites list it as such, but it is not. And when people run that pump with e85, it is a hit or miss if the pump will survive or not.

Also running the Bosch 044 in-line, pick up adapters accordingly to make it work if you choose to remain on that route. The stock line size does not dictate if things explode or not. That would have to do more with the quality of hose you choose. 6mm or 8mm, burst pressure ratings is what matters more.

For simplicity sake, if you don't plan on running e85 you should return/sell the 044 and pick up an 040 (if you have the pump assembly pictured above). They sell adapters that make it a plug and play for the stock basket. I picked up mine used, and pretty sure it is an RS4 basket with RS4 strainer. Then I run a check valve in-line from the pump to the cap/lid. But when these pumps became more popular, 034MS made an adapter that makes that 044/040 work with the stock basket.

Pricey, but you need to ask yourself if the cost is worth the saved aggravation. For many it is, so they purchase it: https://store.034motorsport.com/bill...osch-60mm.html

Or buy the entire kit with the pump: https://store.034motorsport.com/bill...lications.html

You guys should have 034MS authorized dealers on your side of the Ocean, so try and source them out to get a better deal (save on shipping). And with the amount of car heads over there, I would not be surprised if there is already a popular solution used on the Eastern hemisphere. You would just need to research it. And if you can't find it, then there is the 034MS solution that is tried and proven. It just saves a bunch of worry, like what you are experiencing now. Things like that alone at times is worth spending the money (personal experience)

[flo94]

Now I understand the stuff, you defiantly clear my head, thanks man I do not intend to run E85 so apparently, I will have to reroute and sell the 044, already found 040 on a good bargain with this kit from 034 ( apparently it is not so hard to find it on our continent ). But before that I would like to ask one more thing. Currently I am running 280 hp (with stock rods) with k04 hybrid and I can obtain another 50-60 from this turbo the thing is that the engine is blown and is smoking. In few weeks will mount fully rebuilt AEB with rods, big head, NA cams etc. When the engine is mounted, I intend to remap the car to obtain these additional 50-60 hp and then in few months will go for big turbo so I want to resolve this issue with fueling now and to be prepare in the future. So the bosch 040 how many hp can handle on stock fuel lines? How many hp you have on your b5 with 040, stock lines or not?

I see that it is rated for:

Flow rate at 12V supply and pressure 3 bar: 230 l / h

Flow rate at 12V supply and pressure 5 bar: 170 l / h

Flow rate at 12V supply and pressure 6 bar: 140 l / h

on the other hand bosch 044:

Flow rate at 12V supply and pressure 3 bar: 330 l / h

Flow rate at 12V supply and pressure 5 bar: 200 l / h

Flow rate at 12V supply and pressure 6 bar: 170 l / h

[EuroxS4]

walbro450 is rated for more and probably cheaper. Just saying. Proven solution and compatible with e85.

[Seerlah]

^You are absolutely correct. Walbro 450 is probably the best pump out on the market for both petrol and e85 because of it's potency. Thing is, people don't really know how to go about or research how to install it properly. If you read the thread below, disregard the conversation between CELison and I. We discussed about this through the PM system. The simplest solution was to simply drill holes two holes in lid cap, run the 10 gauge positive/negative wire through the drilled holes, and seal the drilled holes with fuel tank sealant. Basically direct feed from battery to the pump with stake-ons placed offset from each other's so you can basically pop the lid off and have two offset stake-ons for the power connection/disconnection to the pump. Keep them offset from each other's in case something goes awry with the sheathing for the metal portion of the connectors. As long as they are offset from each other's, the positive and negative metal portions of the stake-ons will never touch each other's inside the tank. This is the route I will be taking when I install mine.

Issue is the gauge wiring for our vehicles is small and has a pretty decent run till it hits the pump (load). It is at the pump that the wires will get hot and melt (where the load is) well before the fuel pump fuse will pop, because the wire will be hot at the pump and not near the fuse. When you research it, you will find many pics of the wires being melted (from heat) when people run this pump without running 10 gauge wire direct from the battery. This pump is not the only pump on the market that requires direct feed, so the 10 gauge wire with relay install is not a new thing. It is just something that also needs to be applied when installing this pump (pretty sure Aeromotive has a pump that also requires direct feed). Pretty sure you already know that though (EuroxS4), but now the information is available for other's (including OP) if they want to pursue the Walbro 450 route.

Not in the mood to rewrite stuff, but here is a link to a thread where I tried to explain it best I could. Thread is somehow missing the flow chart showing amp draw at what fuel pressure and voltage, so it is posted here. Then if you ever consider switching to a rising rate fuel system, amp draw will increase significantly from the ~60psi rating on the chart. People just need to go about installing things safely. And if they can't, then run a pump that can be ran "safely" on the stock wiring.

Link to thread: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ght=walbro+450

Picture of chart missing from thread


Edit: Wanted to add that people also need to research how the stock FPR "on the B5" is not able to bleed the excess pressure back to the tank because of the bleed hole being too small to be able to keep up with relieving the fuel pressure (it is a powerful pump). This in turn makes them run rich due to running maybe 58 bar and the fuel pressure being 65 bar (just throwing in random numbers) because the FPR can't keep up. Not sure if the B6 FPR built into the fuel filter will also be able to bleed it off, because I have not came across anybody who ran this pump on the B6. But these are things people need to consider when adding modifications to their vehicles. For my setup, I run a Fuelab AFPR with -6an PTFE lines so it won't be a concern for me (way I am solving that issue on my car). People need to find their own solutions and add modifications accordingly, before things go awry.

So the bosch 040 how many hp can handle on stock fuel lines? How many hp you have on your b5 with 040, stock lines or not?

Once again, it has nothing to do with the stock fuel lines. Most of it is metal and is not going to burst. And when it comes to "rubber" fuel hose bursting, read the burst pressure rating that should be listed on the hose itself.

The fuel pump runs at a constant speed, voltage dependent. And with this constant speed, it builds fuel pressure in the line. The fuel pressure regulator is designed to bleed off the excess fuel pressure to maintain a certain fuel pressure "at the fuel rail". You are not looking at it correctly when it comes to HP and fuel lines. They really have no correlation to each other's. Fuel pumps have HP ratings simply because x amount of fuel can only produce x amount of combustion. So they rate the HP ratings of the "pumps" by how much fuel it can deliver (lph).

I also run the 044, not the 040. I run stock everything till the engine bay, then use quick disconnect to -6AN male adapters on the stock hard lines. From where the hard lines stop at the false firewall, there are the adapters aforementioned with PTFE -6an lines and Fuelab AFPR routed to an 034MS fuel rail.

[EuroxS4]

Yes I am aware that the wiring need to be upgraded. Also I think running the power through the stock fuel pump relay but pulling 14v directly from battery is the best idea. Also at 14v the pump puts out more than at 12v obviously. I have considered changing the wiring inside the tank under the cap or perhaps a alloy fuel tank lid is a better option. I have seen billet caps for b5 s4 fuel tank im sure one can be made for a b6 a4.

[Seerlah]

The B5 billet cap is a very nice peice, but that is also more catered for a full fuel line system upgrade. I personally don't need that much work done simply because the goals for my vehicle are not the same as other's. People who run this pump usually look for 500whp at a minimum. I picked it up because it is e85 compatible and pretty much top dog on the market when it comes to potency.

And whatever the future holds, the pump should be able to handle anything I throw on the car. But all I am looking for is 400whp butt dyno on e85 from my current 350whp butt dyno on 93 tune. Larger injectors, retune (for both e85 and petrol on larger injectors), and should hold me over till the next itch.

[BumblebVR6]

Just know the Walbro 450 is a pretty powerful pump, so research the pros and cons (causes fueling issues with a couple people who run it, due to the return from the FPR not being able to bleed off the excess pressure quick enough. you will also want to run direct 10 gauge wire with 30A relay from the battery to the pump. then use the power going to the pump for the coil on the relay, so it operates on turn key function).

As far as people having issues with it, are these instances in running it in a returnless setup? I've had my 450 for a while now but haven't installed it yet. Have some stereo equipment (amps) in my car and was going to run a 30amp power source from the distribution block that has 2awg wire going to the battery with a 250A fuse on it. I will use a 30A fuse for the pump from the distribution block. This should work but haven't seen any setups like it. Thoughts?

[Seerlah]

I have not come across anyone who ran this pump on the stock B6 return-less fuel system yet, so I have no idea. All information I post is B5 related, so use the information to figure how you want to go about it on the B6 return-less fuel system. Then if you ever want to convert to a rising rate fuel system, second to last paragraph in this post will explain the route I plan to take.

I also have 2 10" subwoofers in the trunk of the Peasant Mobile (B5), and I thought of stealing power from there too. In the long run, it is not worth the gamble just in case something was to go awry. When I install mine, sovereign from the battery to the pump using the power feed direct to the battery and using factory power to the factory pump to power the coil for turn key start seems the best way to go about it (for my vehicle). With the B5 S4 guys, this is the most cost efficient and safe way to power it. As for for the actual fuel pressure issue, you will need to find that on your own. But at least now you know what to look into during/after install if things go awry.

If you install the pump and you don't have excess fuel pressure, then you can prove that the B6 FPR can handle that pump just fine. And if you run rich, now you know what area to address. Posted my solution with the Fuelab AFPR. But the other issue is e85 clogging the stock filter quicker than normal. This part I have an idea for my vehicle, and picked up parts to see if it will work (trial and error). But for now best idea (read: I'm cheap) is to cut a fuel filter (already purchased), gut it, and have it rewelded back shut (picked this up to re-seal it) to create a plug and play pass-through. Then incorporate an in-line replaceable -6AN fuel filter (forgot what microns to use) in the engine bay for easy simple change out.

This is a project that has been on the back burner for a while, but parts are all here (minus injectors and -6AN filter). Not in a rush because it will cost money to have it fully dialed in. I want to pick up ID 1000cc injectors, rescale for those injectors on 93 octane, and have an e85 tune that I can switch via Maestro Tuning Suite.

[BumblebVR6]

I’m planning on building a return/rising rate setup eventually. Already have a regulator (nuke performance FPR100S) and most fittings. Just need ptfe lines and fittings for those depending on what manufacturer I’m going to use, most likely Brown & Miller or Goodridge.

IMG_0687.jpg

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[Seerlah]

What sized lines you plan on running?

To be honest, I am cheap. Yet spend money on expensive items, if that makes any sense?!?! I run ebay -6an black braided PFTE hose on my engine...and it holds up just fine with 93 octane. I really don't see it causing an issue with e85 either, with the main concern being leaks and there are none. I could not remember where I placed the excess roll I had, ordered 5 ft Vibrant -6AN PTFE black nylon braided hose because I could not locate the ebay goodness, found the leftover ebay goodness, and have 5 feet of brand new Vibrant -6AN PTFE black nylon braided hose sitting in my garage.

Will I redo the ebay lines with the Vibrant ones I purchased? Nope. Just not worth the effort. So it is still in a sealed bag in my garage. If you want it, throw me an offer. Here is a link to the exact product.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-18986

[BumblebVR6]

What sized lines you plan on running?

-8 feed & -6 return.


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[Seerlah]

I edited my post above before you posted. -8AN is overkill IMO for 1.8L of madness. I run -6AN for both return and feed in the engine bay, utilizing the stock hard 5/16" lines (B5). Pretty sure the B6 has the same size, or damn near close to.

Issue is with the coating on the stock hard line, it could be 3/8". I don't know. But it is larger than 5/16" with the black sheathing, so you will have to peel the sheathing off and make sure it is smooth. I used a razor blade to get it off, then sanded it smooth with emery cloth (Viton o-rings in the adapter takes care of the rest, but I also apply ARP PTFE sealant for security reasons). Holds up just fine with no leaks. But I was told the B6 lines are just a tad smaller than the B5, so there is that also. It is really a trial and error thing.

[BumblebVR6]

I edited my post above before you posted. -8AN is overkill IMO for 1.8L of madness. I run -6AN for both return and feed in the engine bay, utilizing the stock hard 5/16" lines (B5). Pretty sure the B6 has the same size, or damn near close to.

Issue is with the coating on the stock hard line, it could be 3/8". I don't know. But it is larger than 5/16" with the black sheathing, so you will have to peel the sheathing off and make sure it is smooth. I used a razor blade to get it off, then sanded it smooth with emery cloth (Viton o-rings in the adapter takes care of the rest, but I also apply ARP PTFE sealant for security reasons). Holds up just fine with no leaks. But I was told the B6 lines are just a tad smaller than the B5, so there is that also. It is really a trial and error thing.

Same issue with adapting to the B6 hard lines. I’ve done exactly the same as you described on both of the B6’s I’ve owned :-) Ran e85 and am on my current one with minimal fuel system upgrades. I bought it with an APR Stage 3+ kit and swapped in my Motoza tuned ecm with multi-tune files (93, e85, 87), -6 hard line adapter to -6 ptfe stainless braided line, IE fuel rail, 1000cc EV 14’s. Stock fuel pump I believe, haven’t checked what it has in it, but has 206k miles so don’t think it’s original. The one on my first B6 died on me at around 160K. I had issues with a few DW pumps dying on me within a 6 month period or so. Maybe less. They were e85 safe pumps but not sure what the issue was. Now I’m starting to wonder if they weren’t getting enough power and dying prematurely? They were ran return less like oem. I never got an answer from DW. The car was on an eliminator so nothing too crazy. As far as line sizing, I’m 99% sure -6 feed would suffice my needs but I’m shooting for 5-600hp or possibly a bit more. Turbo will be PTE 5558 Gen. 2 very well capable of that. So I’d rather oversize just in case. Most fuel sizing charts recommend -8 for those power goals as insurance. IMG_2085.jpg

edit: swapped in a Bosch 040 fuel pump I had lying around. Also replaced the fuel filter which was from '09 according to stamp. Going to see how the car holds up with this setup on return less for the time being. The pump in the car was in fact oem VDO. Didn't look bad so not sure if it had been replaced before. My guess is yes. Some of the quick connectors were broken but I managed to disconnect them and connect back without issue.

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[Seerlah]

Didn't know that was your power goals. Very nice engine bay, BTW.

If I were in your position, I would just do a full rising rate fuel setup with Walbro 450 in the tank and never look back for any fueling needs...ever. Then after that, figure all your worries will be the rest of the car .

[BumblebVR6]

I'm using a walbro 450 pump in a stock basket and it fit in the tank no problem.I'm running a return line to the tank on a 2.7 swapped A4 running k04s. I'm fairly certain the 450 supports 500hp

I’ve read a few write ups on the conversion from return-less. Just found this diagram. So I’m assuming a new (MK4) single in/out filter will go to quick connect 1 & 4? Does the new added return line connect to #2? What do you do with #3?

IMG_0688.jpg


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[BumblebVR6]

Didn't know that was your power goals. Very nice engine bay, BTW.

If I were in your position, I would just do a full rising rate fuel setup with Walbro 450 in the tank and never look back for any fueling needs...ever. Then after that, figure all your worries will be the rest of the car .

That’s the plan!


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[seanf86]

I’ve read a few write ups on the conversion from return-less. Just found this diagram. So I’m assuming a new (MK4) single in/out filter will go to quick connect 1 & 4? Does the new added return line connect to #2? What do you do with #3?

IMG_0688.jpg


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Yes mk4 single in/out, I ordered a filter for 02 3.0 A4 pretty sure it's the same. As for your diagram I can't remember which ones which, but the 4th line that's very small is a vent from the tank, you just plug that line.

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[Seerlah]

I really have no idea when it comes to the B6 filter. But I would do as you do to keep proper fuel tank ventilation and fuel distribution back into the tank. With my power goals, I conjecture the stock hard lines should suffice.

With your power goals, trial and error will determine if the stock lines will suffice till it transitions to -8an lines. And if you look at it like the -8an lines to your billet rail as like a different configured surge tank (for comparison reasons), the pump should be able to maintain proper fuel pressure "at the rail" with the extra volume of the -8an lines acting as a surge tank (for comparison reasons). Trial and error thing, but I'm using that view for my reasoning. Now if you are going for like 600+whp, that theory is now compromised.

[BumblebVR6]

Yes I am aware that the wiring need to be upgraded. Also I think running the power through the stock fuel pump relay but pulling 14v directly from battery is the best idea. Also at 14v the pump puts out more than at 12v obviously. I have considered changing the wiring inside the tank under the cap or perhaps a alloy fuel tank lid is a better option. I have seen billet caps for b5 s4 fuel tank im sure one can be made for a b6 a4.

I talked to Will at Silly Rabbit Motorsports today. He said they're able to customize the kit below for the B6 platform. Very costly option IMO. But good to know the option is there:

https://sillyrabbitmotorsport.com/tw...fuel-pump.html

[Seerlah]

I have seen a B5 S4 guy (I get along with him, so I'll leave names out of it) mod the stock basket to fit 2 dual Walbro 450 pumps. He basically just "Y" (picture that upside down) them together for a feed right off the stock cap, so that also can be done. People bash that dude (old school B5 S4 sub-section funniness), but it can be done.

Pretty sure people were bashing that setup because it looked like it was very prone to leaks inside the tank. Simple part about it was all he would need to do is re-work the plumbing a bit to make it leak-free. But fact remains, it can be done.

Edit: Found the pic

[EuroxS4]

Probably no need for dual walbro450 unless shooting for crazy power numbers. Single walbro450 should do the trick.

[BumblebVR6]

Probably no need for dual walbro450 unless shooting for crazy power numbers. Single walbro450 should do the trick.

Yea, that's big turbo VR6 700+ e85 hardware there.

[BumblebVR6]

I have seen a B5 S4 guy (I get along with him, so I'll leave names out of it) mod the stock basket to fit 2 dual Walbro 450 pumps. He basically just "Y" (picture that upside down) them together for a feed right off the stock cap, so that also can be done. People bash that dude (old school B5 S4 sub-section funniness), but it can be done.

Pretty sure people were bashing that setup because it looked like it was very prone to leaks inside the tank. Simple part about it was all he would need to do is re-work the plumbing a bit to make it leak-free. But fact remains, it can be done.

Edit: Found the pic

This picture helps answer a question I had. Looks like he capped the vent/small line return port on the cap. Doesn't look like that is needed when doing the return conversion as the new return line connects to the existing return that dumps into the driver side of the tank from what I'm understanding. I'm planning on using my current 5/16" oem feed line as the return that comes out of the regulator I will be using, and -8 feed to the rail from the fuel filter.

[Seerlah]

I don't really know what is going on in that pic, but that is the return port on the B5 cap. From that, I never really looked into the redistribution of the fuel back into the tank. But that return port def should not be capped on the B5. On the B6 I don't know how the configuration on that is either, but it seems you do and as long as you have a solid plan then stick to it. Iron out the wrinkles as they come. I just unhooked the parts that were unhooked, and put them back when I'm done. So two fuel lines off the tank lid, then two lines back onto the tank lid. That is the simple part. More important one is wiring it correctly so things do not go awry.

[BumblebVR6]

I don't really know what is going on in that pic, but that is the return port on the B5 cap. From that, I never really looked into the redistribution of the fuel back into the tank. But that return port def should not be capped on the B5. On the B6 I don't know how the configuration on that is either, but it seems you do and as long as you have a solid plan then stick to it. Iron out the wrinkles as they come. I just unhooked the parts that were unhooked, and put them back when I'm done. So two fuel lines off the tank lid, then two lines back onto the tank lid. That is the simple part. More important one is wiring it correctly so things do not go awry.

Wiring will be direct to pump via radium bulkhead walbro spec. components and 10awg relayed harness.

[Seerlah]

If using a bulkhead, might as well run custom PTFE lines all the way to the engine bay with in-line filter in the engine bay for easy change out. But once again I don't know how the B6 fuel tank system works, so you need to decide what would be most convenient for you in the future (why I suggest in-line filter in the engine bay, with sock filter on pump in tank). Not just more convenient, but also easier on install. I would not even incorporate stock fuel lines after it leaves the cap, at that point. My suggestion is to research how to keep the fuel tank fully functional with re-route (this includes fuel distribution once it hits the tank on return) and venting, while being able to run full PTFE lines from the billet Radium cap. And only reason I give this suggestion is because this is the route I would have taken if not using the stock lid (ie ditch the whole utilizing stock or stock like fuel filter plan).

If using the stock cap, drilling two holes and sealing with fuel tank sealant will work just fine!

Edit: Just really re-read your inquiry and I have a question. Are you saying that Radium makes a plug and play kit to run the Walbro 450 on the B6, still utilizing stock lines? If so, that is pretty cool. But still, at that point I would still run full -8AN lines from the pump lid. One, because you spent money on an expensive item and should get the best out of it you can. Two, you may regret using stock lines and want to upgrade to -8An anyways. If you tinker with your car as much as I do, this alone kicks me in the arse over and over again.

[AudiAR01]

I'm not a B5 guy but 2.7t C5 so same motor. But I'm in the process of swapping to k04's. I haven't found any issues with c5s needing a return line upgraded. I'm doing the 40amp relay with 8awg wire from the battery, and using the stock power pump wire for the relay power on with the key. I'm using walboro 450 pump. Which may be a tad big for my needs. But may need it later on down the road. So to save from buying a bigger pump. I was gonna run the 400 pump. But I may eventually go e85 tune as well. So gonna go with the 450 which I already have. I believe the 450 pump fits right in the stock basket on the c5s. I'm hoping. Lol. Haven't gotten that far yet. I'm in the middle of pulling my motor now. I'm running stage 1 CHRA's from Turbo Rebuilders UK in the k04s. But I'm only shooting for 18-20psi for now....

2003 A6 2.7T 6spd Stage 1+ (motor pulled for stage 3+ upgrades)

2001 Allroad TIP Stage 1
2006 A3 2.0T 6spd Stage 1

[Wet0willy01]

I’ve read a few write ups on the conversion from return-less. Just found this diagram. So I’m assuming a new (MK4) single in/out filter will go to quick connect 1 & 4? Does the new added return line connect to #2? What do you do with #3?

IMG_0688.jpg


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Originally I plugged mine at the port at the tank #3 goes to. I swapped a failed fuel pump on a friends 02(?) 3.0 b6 and noticed he didn’t have the vent in his tank lid (2 port fuel filter set up). I then located a tank lid without the port and installed it on my car.

I’m currently running a walbro 460 with ID1000s, -6an feed and return (from the fuel filter forward), 034 fuel rail, fuelab AFPR, with a 10awg feed from the battery via a relay. I made 630awhp on 93+meth for a horsepower reference to fueling needs. Currently waiting on a Walbro 535 to arrive. Note it doesn’t have a check valve on the outlet so I will need to install one in the feed line.

https://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-5...utomotive.html

[Seerlah]

^Thanks for the info Andrew. Nice to know there are still lurkers in the background, and I am not the only one. I just have a high disdain for posting because more times than less frustration follows in suit. But this thread is actually a good one, something Audizine has been lacking for years .

[Seerlah]

And in case people don't know, ID has a contract with Bosch to manufacture True 1000cc injectors. They now exist in the 1050x form, research it.

Edit: Just did...Clicky Click

Too damn funny!

[Wet0willy01]

That was a fun read. I’m still around, but the b5/b6 forums are dead nowadays. Miss the good old days.

PS there was one or more person who put a 044 in a b6 tank. It was kinda janky. The inlet screen portion was cut off IIRC. With the pumps available now it’s not worth the hassle/compromise.

[flo94]

Hi all,
So I got rid of the 044 and purchased walbro 450 xx0000267 and it fits perfectly in the basket. Now I am struggling to find this 10 gauge wiring relay kit in one peace so I will gather it part by part.
I need 10 gauge which is equivalent to 2.59 mm wire in EU standards
30A fuse and some kind of a relay. Could someone pls elaborate what sort of a relay I need? Thanks, George

[Seerlah]

You can order them off Ebay, Summit Racing, Jegs, etc. I picked a brand new Summit Racing one off ebay for cheap. Not the best quality parts, but my B5 is not a daily driver.

https://www.summitracing.com/search?...%20relay%20kit

[AudiAR01]

Hi all,
So I got rid of the 044 and purchased walbro 450 xx0000267 and it fits perfectly in the basket. Now I am struggling to find this 10 gauge wiring relay kit in one peace so I will gather it part by part.
I need 10 gauge which is equivalent to 2.59 mm wire in EU standards
30A fuse and some kind of a relay. Could someone pls elaborate what sort of a relay I need? Thanks, George

Any 30-40 amp relay will work. And you can get 10awg wire from anywhere. Lowe's, home Depot, Amazon, eBay, RadioShack, all kinds of places.

2003 A6 2.7T 6spd Stage 1+ (motor pulled for stage 3+ upgrades)

2001 Allroad TIP Stage 1
2006 A3 2.0T 6spd Stage 1

[Seerlah]

Not to thread jack, but figured get this thread continuing. OP can take this content later and use it how he wants, or simply go with the flow of it if he chooses (meaning walk a similar or same route). Plus input or any questions in his own thread is always welcome and appreciated. This is his thread. And if he has an issue with me adding this content, I will stop posting in it.

Back story is the car is on downtime...again. Had the speedo pinned (read: ), upgraded Piper Street Cams, everything stock on the block minus forged rods and AEB pistons (wanted 20mm wristpins with lower CR pistons with AEB pistons) on an AWM block. Out of the blue, power cuts off, I coast to the shoulder, crank car, and zero compression. Haven't pulled the head to assess damage yet, but figured just bent some valves (ie valve float). Issue is how much piston dome damage there is, if just upgrading the valvetrain will suffice (don't want too much of hot spots). That will be the wintertime project with SuperTech exhaust valves, SuperTech valve springs, and just lap in some used intake valves off ebay for good measure. I have my daily driver beater to hold me over. Had a full set of Osvat valves laying around for years and recently sold them. But that is how the game goes .

With that being said, started on cutting open a Bosch fuel filter for the fuel system upgrade for the Walbro 450 install and e85 conversion. The wall thickness of the filter is like 2-3mm and I was expecting it to be much thinner. Not sure how the B6 fuel filter is, but this is what it looks like on a B5. Pics show the sloppy cut, but cleaned it up after. Does not have to be perfect by a long shot for this project. I then cleaned the weld area with a SS coil wheel, per the aluminalloy instructions (with the wall thickness being thicker than I anticipated, I am really considering having it professionally welded). The Bosch filter also has a thin plastic layer on it, so that def had to be removed from the hot zone (welding terminology). This is where I left off for the day, with a pic of the B5 and where she will be operated (AAA Gold member and had a friend come over to help me push it into the garage).

[BumblebVR6]

So this just caught my eye: http://injectordynamics.com/id-f750-fuel-filter/

Wish we had more room in the engine bay. Best option i see is moving the battery but I don't want to go that route.