HELP! 8630 - Bank 2: CMP Sens 2 (G163) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28) P0018 00 [237] - I

[VW_Maniac]

Guys,

I desperately need help with this one. I let my 2015 S6 sit a few months due to COVID and because I was using my summer car. When I went to start it up, I got a check engine light, an EPC light and rpm limited to 4,000. Got the 8630 fault when I scanned it with VCDS.

Dropped it off at Audi to have something else done and they told me there was a TSB that needed to be done to fix this issue. 3 hours of labour later and TSB completed, still have the same faults.

Does anyone have any clue what could be going on here? The next step Audi wants to take is to drop the engine which starts at a minimum of 30 hours of labour... Shoot me!

Nic


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[gk1]

What's the state of the battery? If it sat for a few months was it on a battery charger? Any rats/squirrels nesting in the engine?
Not sure what 8630 is, but the P0018 is...
P0018 Crankshaft Position-Camshaft Position Correlation Bank 2 Sensor A
Camshaft Position Sensor Intake angular offset check
Check the Camshaft Position Sensor 2 - G163-

DISCONNECT: Camshaft Position Sensor 2 -G163- connector
• IGNITION: ON
• CHECK: Camshaft Position Sensor 2 - G163- wiring connector terminals 1 to 3 for voltage
• SPECIFIED VALUE: About 5.0 V

Camshaft Position Sensor 2 -G163- is Bank 2 (Driver's side) It's one of the two sensor in the valve cover. Should be lower side of valve cover between 2nd and 3rd coil packs. (Not the two larger solenoids toward the rear.) I'd check that connector and wiring too.

[VW_Maniac]

Thank you so much for your help!

Picked the car back up from Audi last night and spent the afternoon looking for the cause of this one.

Battery didn’t seem too bad as the car was starting and running without issues. I did hook up my charger and will see what it looks like tomorrow morning. Charger is showing the battery capacity “Low”.

Looked everywhere I could for rodent damage to any wires and did not find anything.

I pulled out two connectors on the driver side and both read 5V. I even started the engine with them unplugged and the faults they triggered were fuel pressure related vs G163 related.





The car doesn’t seem to run rough at all. I am really confused on this one...

Nic


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[gk1]

Hmmm.
I do sometime find Audi's exploded diagrams hard to determine exactly where things are, but based on what we are looking at the first sensor you circled should be the "Camshaft Position Sensor 4 - G301 -".
I honestly could not tell you why that would set a fuel pressure fault if left unplugged. That is strange.

The one in your second and third pictures I would think is indeed the "Camshaft Position Sensor 2 - G163-".
Again, I can't tell you why that would set a fuel pressure fault if left unplugged. However if the G163 was faulty to begin with I could see that maybe it would not set any additional fault more than what you already have and perhaps the fuel pressure fault is something else.
If it were me I'd probably start by replacing the G163 and go from there. I know it might be difficult but if you could get the p/n off of the part itself that might help confirm you are looking at the right sensor. If nothing else, remove it, get the p/n off it, clean it and try it again, maybe that's all that needs to be done.
It should be p/n 04C907601K ~$40-$75 but I'd confirm that with dealer or parts place and VIN if you decide to replace it.

FWIW based on the description it does sound like the G163 is only used at startup and if faulty it uses the G28 (Engine Speed Sensor) instead. So that may be why you are not experiencing any rough running. (and perhaps confirms your G28 is working properly.)

"Using the signal from the Camshaft Position Sensor 2 - G163- , the precise position of the camshaft relative to the crankshaft is determined very quickly when the engine is started. Used in combination with the signal from the Engine Speed Sensor - G28- , the signal from the Camshaft Position Sensor 2 - G163- detects which cylinder is at TDC. The fuel can be injected into the corresponding cylinder and ignited. In case of signal failure, the signal from the Engine Speed Sensor - G28- is used instead. Because the camshaft position and the cylinder position cannot be recognized as quickly, it may take longer to start the engine."

[VW_Maniac]

So...

Had a fully charged battery this morning. Made no difference .

Played with all 4 camshaft position sensors across both banks. These fuel pressure faults never came back by the way... I unplugged each one at a time to see what fault I was getting when unplugged. Three of the sensor came back with the same fault. “Signal too high”. The fault for G163 was P0348 00 [167] - Short to Plus.

I pulled the sensor out and there was no obvious issue with it. I figured I would swap it with G301 to see if the issue would move and no change. Same fault on G163 which leads me to believe the sensor itself is fine.

Any thoughts on this Short to Plus fault? Is there a wiring issue I might not easily see?


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[gk1]

Again, strange.
P0348 shows as "Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit High and the recommendation is to check the Camshaft position sensor 3 -G300-
It does look like there is an adaption period for the system to read correct values again once fault codes are cleared or I assume if the sensors are unplugged. So you may have been seeing that. I'm not sure.

So that I understand better... what you did you swapped the G301 and G163, cleared faults, ran the car and still got the original fault P0018 indicating G163 was an issue?
If that is the case then yeah I would tend to think like you something is wrong with the wiring, but you also already checked and have 5V at the G163 connector right? No issues maybe if moving the wiring while measuring voltage?
I may not be able to offer any more help and honestly I don't really recommend undertaking the next steps yourself since it involves removing the ECM and it seems too likely to cause other issues, but I'm not sure what else to check if you suspect the sensor is not the issue.
This is the next troubleshooting tips after the basic voltage check.

• REMOVE: Engine Control Module - J623- .Refer to appropriate repair manual.
• CHECK: Camshaft Position Sensor 2 - G163- connector terminals 2 to the Engine Control Module - J623- connector terminals T105 / 34.
• SPECIFIED VALUE: 0.5 Ω (± 0.3 Ω)
If that reading was ok then replace the G163 sensor otherwise look for wiring issues.

• CHECK: Camshaft Position Sensor 2 - G163- connector terminals 1 to the Engine Control Module - J623- connector terminals T105 / 20.
• CHECK: Camshaft Position Sensor 2 - G163- connector terminals 3 to the Engine Control Module - J623- connector terminals T105 / 55.
• SPECIFIED VALUE: 0.5 Ω (± 0.3 Ω)
If that reading was ok then replace the ECM J623!!!! otherwise look for wiring issues.

For your sake, hopefully it is just a wiring issue that you can figure out or worst case an indy shop can figure out.

[VW_Maniac]

I might take it out for a spin and see what faults stick.

What you described is exactly what I did. Swapped the those 2 sensors and cleared the faults. P0018 came back right away.

To be 100% sure, you said I needed to read the voltage between terminals 1 and 3, right? I didn’t look at terminal 2. I keep getting 5V even when moving the wiring around.

What are the risks involved with disconnecting the ECM?


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[gk1]

I might take it out for a spin and see what faults stick.

What you described is exactly what I did. Swapped the those 2 sensors and cleared the faults. P0018 came back right away.

To be 100% sure, you said I needed to read the voltage between terminals 1 and 3, right? I didn’t look at terminal 2. I keep getting 5V even when moving the wiring around.

What are the risks involved with disconnecting the ECM?


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Yeah. First test says check terminals 1 & 3 for 5V.
For the second and third tests it is to check resistance from basically all the connector terminals back to the appropriate ECM connector.

I'm always on the side of caution when it comes to touching the ECM. You could remove it and maybe static or something destroys it. Breaking the ECM connector is possible too. I know I'm being a bit paranoid, but I'd never suggest anyone try it unless you are willing to risk possible ECM damage.

[Valpo A7]

I would pull the cam sensors and the cam actuators and clean them as they tend to get crud on the business end of them that might impede the signal.

The P0018 code on a 3.0 is a signal mismatch between the cam and the crank sensor. I would suspect its the same with the 4.0. Check the crank sensor wiring as well to make sure the mice did not get to it. Best case is you just have a dirty sensor, worse case is you actually have a problem with the engine timing. You can swap the sensors left to right and see if the codes change. If the P0018 changes to a P0016 then you have a bad sensor.

Audi will want a small mint for the new sensors but if you search on partgeek.com you can get them fairly cheap.

And yeah the 30 hours for diagnostic is crazy since they have to pull the motor to do it. There is a whole pile of bolts and gaskets that will get changed out in the process as well so the bill will be more than just 30 hours of labor. Audi likes to stretch torque bolts and those need to get replaced when you tear it down.

[bracketracer]

FWIW, I also have this identical fault on my 2016 with 50,700 miles on it. Have already swapped the solenoid and cam sensor, fault still remains, MIL/EPC/4k rev limit. Engine is coming out next.

[gk1]

FWIW, I also have this identical fault on my 2016 with 50,700 miles on it. Have already swapped the solenoid and cam sensor, fault still remains, MIL/EPC/4k rev limit. Engine is coming out next.

What is suspected to be wrong that requires engine removal? Timing chain?

[VW_Maniac]

FWIW, I also have this identical fault on my 2016 with 50,700 miles on it. Have already swapped the solenoid and cam sensor, fault still remains, MIL/EPC/4k rev limit. Engine is coming out next.

Also very interested to find out what you find when pulling it out. I have not yet brought mine back to the dealer to get the engine dropped and inspected.

Worried it will be wasted effort and money for some other simple electrical issue that is triggering the fault...


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[mintytoo]

Also very interested to find out what you find when pulling it out. I have not yet brought mine back to the dealer to get the engine dropped and inspected.

Worried it will be wasted effort and money for some other simple electrical issue that is triggering the fault...


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Reviving an old thread, did you ever fix this problem? the p0018