Best Engine Oil for B8.5

[Mchedlo]

Hey guys! Im gonna change the engine oil in a day or two. Which one do you suggest from experience? I know that manual says castrol (i read it somewhere) but any other suggestions? Mobil 1? Shell? and BTW which one should i use 10w40, 5w40? 5w30..?

TIA :)

[Smac770]

What exactly is your engine? You're not in the North America market, so there's no assurance you're running a Gen2 2.0T.

[Mchedlo]

2.0T FWD. I bought my car from the US (copart auction)

[Theiceman]

i use mobil1 0w40, but there are a lot of good options.

[Chillaxin]

Many would suggest LiquidMoly 5w40. I personally use Mobil 1 0w40 on a 4-5k mi OCI. 5qt jugs run ~$25 and there is normally a yearly rebate (ends up being $15/5qt jug). I use a mann filter from FCP euro, because of lifetime replacements. To confirm what is best, would require some blackstone lab results.

[Mchedlo]

i use mobil1 0w40, but there are a lot of good options.

i cant decide between 5w30 or 5w40, as i dont know the benefits between them. does mileage matter? mine has 102K miles on it

[Mchedlo]

Many would suggest LiquidMoly 5w40. I personally use Mobil 1 0w40 on a 4-5k mi OCI. 5qt jugs run ~$25 and there is normally a yearly rebate (ends up being $15/5qt jug). I use a mann filter from FCP euro, because of lifetime replacements. To confirm what is best, would require some blackstone lab results.

as i know, lower the number before "W" means that it can operate at lower temperatures. correct me if im wrong because idk much when it comes to oils. i dont live in cold environment, in summer its like 35-45C and in winter -2-10C

[weagle1856]

Use 5w-40.

I love motul 8100 x-cess. Been the best oil I've used

[Smac770]

If it's a US source, it'll be the Gen2 engine then. VW 502.00 requirement. Audi normal recommended viscosity is 5W-40 synthetic for gas engines.

I use only Castrol Edge, the one with the yellow stripe that says SAE 5W-40 US. This is the VW 502.00 compliant one.
If you wanted to go Mobile One, the VW 502.00 compliant is 0W-40, so you don't get an option at 5W-40 if you want to use that brand.

The two numbers are cold and hot viscosity. So if you were in a really cold place, you might want a 0W-40 rather than 5W-40, so it flows more easily at cold start. The other allowed value by Audi is 5W-30. But Audi really only cares about that VW 502 00 specification. I wouldn't use 5W-30 over 5W-40 if you have access to VW 502 00 compliant 5W-40.

[MSq5]

If it's a US source, it'll be the Gen2 engine then. VW 502.00 requirement.

* * *

If you wanted to go Mobile One, the VW 502.00 compliant is 0W-40, so you don't get an option at 5W-40 if you want to use that brand.

* * *

I wouldn't use 5W-30 over 5W-40 if you have access to VW 502 00 compliant 5W-40.

Mobil 1 does make a full synthetic 5w40 that is VW 502 00 certified.

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/...ynthetic-euro/

The 0w40 is called Mobil 1 FS (formerly called European Car Formula), and is VW 502 00 certified.

The 5w40 version is in the link above and is labeled Mobil 1 Super Synthetic Euro.

Honestly, for most of us there is no meaningful difference between the two oils. Both are VW 502 00 compliant. If you can find either, they are excellent choices.

[Smac770]

Well, it's not a Mobil 1, to be specific. I wonder what the marketing difference between Mobil 1 and Mobil Super is, as they both appear to be full synthetic. I thought Mobil Super was for their synthetic blends. Seems an odd organization.

But they do in fact have a Mobil 1 5W-40, but it's called Formula M and only has the MB specs on it. The same MB specs as are on the Mobil Super Synthetic Euro and the Mobil 1 FS. Go figure.

I tried Mobil 1 0W-40 when my car started drinking oil, just seemed to make it worse. After the rings and pistons, I've used solely the Castrol Edge. It's presented no issues; no need for me to change it up now.

[audrobotic]

Well, it's not a Mobil 1, to be specific. I wonder what the marketing difference between Mobil 1 and Mobil Super is, as they both appear to be full synthetic. I thought Mobil Super was for their synthetic blends. Seems an odd organization.

But they do in fact have a Mobil 1 5W-40, but it's called Formula M and only has the MB specs on it. The same MB specs as are on the Mobil Super Synthetic Euro and the Mobil 1 FS. Go figure.

I tried Mobil 1 0W-40 when my car started drinking oil, just seemed to make it worse. After the rings and pistons, I've used solely the Castrol Edge. It's presented no issues; no need for me to change it up now.

When my oil changes were not Castrol Edge then I had oil burn, but with Castrol Edge - no oil burn. Correlation is not causation, it could have been driving habits and other things, but I feel good with Castrol Edge 5w-40. But I'd be willing to try out that Motul Xcess that everyone raves about.

[old guy]

If you are switching to Motul you should also consider Motul Specific.

[Nano909]

[audrobotic]

If you are switching to Motul you should also consider Motul Specific.

Hmm interesting. The Motul Specific seems to be named as such because it's made for VAG cars. Never heard of it before.

[Smac770]

Motul's website product search could use some improvement. Results for the search for a CAEB are 8100 X-cess Gen2 5W-40, followed by 8100 X-cess 5W-40, followed by 6100 SYN-clean 5W-40.

The site lists 7 variations of Motul Specific, one for VAG products. But it's a 0W-20 for VW 508 00 and 509 00.
https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/produ...%5Brange%5D=25

Google search brings up a Motul Specific 502 00 page:
https://www.motul.com/in/en/products...01-502-00-5w40
But notice that's Motul India. Oversight on the US site, or is it a done product here?

[old guy]

Interesting....

I used to purchase a 5L oil change kit from ECS Tuning that contained 5L of the 5w-40 Motul Specific. I see that it is no longer available and the 5w-40 Specific is now only available in a iL bottle. Clicky click®

Edit: Just found it on the US site. Clicky click®

[clettngx]

No love for Pennzoil here? 5w-40 ultra platinum is vw502 rated. I plan to use that as I can get a big 20l drum for quite cheap.

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[audrobotic]

No love for Pennzoil here? 5w-40 ultra platinum is vw502 rated. I plan to use that as I can get a big 20l drum for quite cheap.

Nope. I had a bit of oil burning and LPSI-like pinging with the Penz.

[clettngx]

Nope. I had a bit of oil burning and LPSI-like pinging with the Penz.

So the vw502 rating means squat!

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[Spawne32]

[Audi 4 Life]

Oh great another oil thread lol... I suggest reading this...

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=383410

And this...

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=429089

I used to use the Motul excess which is a great oil but a while back I switched to Motul 300v, both are ester based. I change it very often only because I havent had a chance to send to Blackstone yet and its not designed to be run for longer intervals.

I used to change my oil ever 3k with the motul excess and with 300v I change it probably half that. I keep meaning to have it tested, which I know is excessive but i don't care, shorter intverals keeps your engine insides squeaky clean and is the proper method to clean the engine vs additives. And I don't mind changing my oil often when its only 30 $ thru fcp.

Also I think APR actually reccomends 300v for B8s using their K04.


http://www.goapr.co.uk/products/motul.html

300V FTW!

[audrobotic]

...

[clettngx]

Nope. I had a bit of oil burning and LPSI-like pinging with the Penz.

Sorry, I didn't mean the ultra platinum. I meant to say the platinum euro 5w-40

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[Mchedlo]

Oh great another oil thread lol... I suggest reading this...

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=383410

And this...

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=429089

I used to use the Motul excess which is a great oil but a while back I switched to Motul 300v, both are ester based. I change it very often only because I havent had a chance to send to Blackstone yet and its not designed to be run for longer intervals.

I used to change my oil ever 3k with the motul excess and with 300v I change it probably half that. I keep meaning to have it tested, which I know is excessive but i don't care, shorter intverals keeps your engine insides squeaky clean and is the proper method to clean the engine vs additives. And I don't mind changing my oil often when its only 30 $ thru fcp.

Also I think APR actually reccomends 300v for B8s using their K04.


http://www.goapr.co.uk/products/motul.html

300V FTW!

Thats what i was looking for! Thank You!

[Mchedlo]

Thank you all for your time and responses! :) i also found this
https://www.audiusa.com/content/dam/...-1.22.2018.pdf

So i might just go with Shell Helix ultra 5w40 and be just done with it, or 5w30 Helix ultra AX, or mby Mobil 1 0w40. i will check which one is available at the stores :)

[Spawne32]

Thank you all for your time and responses! :) i also found this
https://www.audiusa.com/content/dam/...-1.22.2018.pdf

So i might just go with Shell Helix ultra 5w40 and be just done with it, or 5w30 Helix ultra AX, or mby Mobil 1 0w40. i will check which one is available at the stores :)

Helix is good oil, I use rotella T6 on all my cars. It is particularly well suited for turbo diesel engines (turbochargers in general) and is cheap.

[MSq5]

For those who are either engineering nerds or racing fanatics, or just want to better understand how engine oil works and want to get very deep into the science, go to this blog in the link below.

This is a completely unbiased data-driven blog prepared by a mechanical engineer who has developed an elegant and sound testing methodology focusing on the most important criteria - shear resistance. That is the ability of the thin oil film between bearings and other rotating parts to keep the parts from touching under the high pressure loads encountered under extreme driving conditions, including full throttle operation.

Many performance engine builders and race teams follow this blog and rely on his tests. He has tested over 200 oils and rated them. You absolutely cannot go by brand alone, nor by manufacturer or industry certification, although that is generally useful. The higher the pressure in psi before shear breakdown and metal-to-metal contact occurs at standard 230F temperature, the higher the rating.

He has also tested for temperature breakdown. That may be a bit more important for turbocharged engines, because the oil feeding the center shaft gets much hotter than it does in the engine.

You will find his ratings down pretty deep in the blog. If you have time (this may take an hour or more) it is well-worth the time. The results are very objective and may surprise you. His tests generally favor certain thinner 5w30 synthetic oils with notable exceptions.

As best I can tell, the highest rated VW 502 00 oil (#8 out if over 200) is Mobil 1 0w40 FS. He did suggest its 40w hot viscosity rating may be too high for some engine applications. However, its VW 502 00 rating seems to suggest that VW has taken that into consideration.

You will note that for the highest rated Motul oil (300V - #26) he expressed concern that its unusually high zinc/phosphorus content may be potentially harmful to catalytic converters. Again, its 502 00 certification would suggest that it is safe for our cats.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/

[Audi 4 Life]

Helix is good oil, I use rotella T6 on all my cars. It is particularly well suited for turbo diesel engines (turbochargers in general) and is cheap.

X2 on the rotella T6. OP if your going to use the shell the T6 is the better option its a very stout oil and it has a shit ton of detergents so keeps your engine internals really clean especially if you do short intervals.



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[Spawne32]

X2 on the rotella T6. OP if your going to use the shell the T6 is the better option its a very stout oil and it has a shit ton of detergents so keeps your engine internals really clean especially if you do short intervals.



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You don't even have to do short intervals, the reason they separate "diesel" oils is because of the effects on catalytic converters, that's all. You can run that oil to like 25,000 miles and it's fine. It's specifically designed for heavy duty operation in semi trucks. lol

[MSq5]

Rotella T6 performed very poorly in the above test. It was #204. in wear protection (shear).

I used to run it in highly modified turbo Mazdaspeed3. But, after finding this blog, I changed to something else. It's only advantage was its high detergent package that helps reduce carbon deposits.

[old guy]

MSq5

That blog is the reason that I switched from Motul Specific to Mobil-1 0w-40 FS at my last oil change on both the A4 and A5. I monitor oil usage closely so it will be interesting to see if I record any differences.

[Spawne32]

nevermind, wrong one

[Spawne32]

Rotella T6 performed very poorly in the above test. It was #204. in wear protection (shear).

I used to run it in highly modified turbo Mazdaspeed3. But, after finding this blog, I changed to something else. It's only advantage was its high detergent package that helps reduce carbon deposits.

I have to ask, because this has been a big topic of debate, has anyone ever shown any evidence that it causes excessive wear like you are suggesting? I've been running it in various engines for a decade now and none of them show any signs of wear. I've even had some apart and the bearings were fine. T6 has been a huge name in oil for decades, I can't imagine why it would under perform.

[morris39]

For those who are either engineering nerds or racing fanatics, or just want to better understand how engine oil works and want to get very deep into the science, go to this blog in the link below.

This is a completely unbiased data-driven blog prepared by a mechanical engineer who has developed an elegant and sound testing methodology focusing on the most important criteria - shear resistance. That is the ability of the thin oil film between bearings and other rotating parts to keep the parts from touching under the high pressure loads encountered under extreme driving conditions, including full throttle operation.

Many performance engine builders and race teams follow this blog and rely on his tests. He has tested over 200 oils and rated them. You absolutely cannot go by brand alone, nor by manufacturer or industry certification, although that is generally useful. The higher the pressure in psi before shear breakdown and metal-to-metal contact occurs at standard 230F temperature, the higher the rating.

He has also tested for temperature breakdown. That may be a bit more important for turbocharged engines, because the oil feeding the center shaft gets much hotter than it does in the engine.

You will find his ratings down pretty deep in the blog. If you have time (this may take an hour or more) it is well-worth the time. The results are very objective and may surprise you. His tests generally favor certain thinner 5w30 synthetic oils with notable exceptions.

As best I can tell, the highest rated VW 502 00 oil (#8 out if over 200) is Mobil 1 0w40 FS. He did suggest its 40w hot viscosity rating may be too high for some engine applications. However, its VW 502 00 rating seems to suggest that VW has taken that into consideration.

You will note that for the highest rated Motul oil (300V - #26) he expressed concern that its unusually high zinc/phosphorus content may be potentially harmful to catalytic converters. Again, its 502 00 certification would suggest that it is safe for our cats.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/

If you are basing value judgement on measurement (good) then go all the way i.e. take the broad view (or numerate). How large is the effect on actual engine wear and what is the correct framing? The only way to accurately know is to actually measure it. not infer from a another test which has not been correlated. What is the expected service life of the car, 200k miles? Is the differnce meaningful?
The univrersal certainty that posters claim based on only their limited experience is interesting.

[audrobotic]

If you are basing value judgement on measurement (good) then go all the way i.e. take the broad view (or numerate). How large is the effect on actual engine wear and what is the correct framing? The only way to accurately know is to actually measure it. not infer from a another test which has not been correlated. What is the expected service life of the car, 200k miles? Is the differnce meaningful?
The univrersal certainty that posters claim based on only their limited experience is interesting.

For sure all this discussion is anecdotal. Anyone who took a statistics course and paid attention will see that. And even if we had perfect data, more to your point, what is the big picture? How would we interpret that data? If we used X-brand oil vs Y-brand oil for 100k mike - what effects will it have? Sure a certain oil is better in a specific way, but what real world impact does that make. It's impossible to know.

The ratblog has good info, it's terribly laid out (hello - hyperlinks?), but it still gets us nowhere. The blog pretty much glosses over direct injection (section 38), saying pretty much - don't drive one. The only useful thing from that blog for the average reader is don't go past 5K OCIs.

The B8 generation is such a drama queen we try to come up with ways to help this lost cause. You could put maple syrup in a Toyota and it would run till 500k.

[MSq5]

I have to ask, because this has been a big topic of debate, has anyone ever shown any evidence that it causes excessive wear like you are suggesting? I've been running it in various engines for a decade now and none of them show any signs of wear. I've even had some apart and the bearings were fine. T6 has been a huge name in oil for decades, I can't imagine why it would under perform.

The test showed far below average protection against wear, shearing to metal-to-metal at about 67,000 psi, whereas the top oils, including the Mobil 1 FS for VW502 00 exceed 125,000 psi.

The wear I saw in the 'Speed3" was primarily accelerated turbo center shaft wear. I went through three k04s before converting to a hybrid with a Garrett GT28 CHRA with better bearings. That is a known problem, anyway, with the K04 (and K03) because of the very tiny 5mm center shaft. The turbo spins at well over 100,000 rpm. The Mazda 2.3L turbo also had a strange pcv system that caused excessive oil pressure in the crankcase that affected oil flow to the turbo. We tried oil restrictors in the turbo oil inlet and other bandaids.

We all were chasing the detergent additives to help with the dirty carbon from direct injection and necessarily rich AFR, and not really thinking about oil shear. With hindsight, I think the T6 was not protecting the turbo center shaft. 30,000 miles or less per turbo was common. One only got me about 12,000 before bearing failure. Oil changes were religiously at 5,000 miles. We were pushing the turbos hard with 18-20 psi, pulling a lot harder to 6,700 redline. Stock maxed out at 14.5 psi and tapered sharply after 5,500 to protect the turbo. That is a lot of stress and heat. We also had premature wear on the cam tensioners and timing chains.

True, I never had any signs of engine bearing or cam lobe wear over 11 years and 150,000 miles. Compression remained high and oil consumption was negligible. T6 was hugely popular. With the benefit of hindsight, I do wonder if wear from oil film shear might have been due in part to choice of oil.

T6 has fallen out of favor in the 'Speed community. Most are now running Mobil 1 full synthetic or Pennzoil Ultra.

[audi-art]

for what it's worth.... vag dealers here have switched from castrol to Total Quartz Ineo Longlife 5W-30 (for my 2012 2.0 tfsi) when i asked why... the guy thought it was just somekind of marketing deal

[BrianVan]

This is (almost) the most detailed, informative and "he said she said" thread on "what oil should I use" in my entire life of 43yrs on this earth.
The last thing you should be worried about is what oil to use and worry about the 100k miles and the FWD.

I know I'll get blasted to the moon, but that's like saying, what wax should I use? For all you know the last owner didn't know jack about Audi A4 2.0's as they bought a FWD A4. For the last 100k miles, they could of used Home Depot brand oil or took it to a qucki-mart oil change place and it was never changed, and charged $55.
At this point of the cars lifetime, no matter what oil you use, it won't be the oil that will make any part fail when you finally sell it or affect mileage, drivability or how good the FWD will hook up at the dragstrip.

Lets end this thread...numerous posters agree...anything that's vw502 rated and you'll be safe enough. Pay the extra $2 and get synthetic. No matter the brand. There are ALOT of discussions on wear, consumption, etc...ALL VALID.....but (most) ppl who ask, "what brand tires\wax\oil\windshield wiper fluid" want to hear the cheapest fix, cheapest part, cheapest repair for a (when Brand New) 45K car. If one has to ask what oil to use....please read this forum front to back and learn about the car and cars in general.

The posters here have been big contributors to the forum and I've followed them. But to satisfy your oil curiosity between 5w-30 and 5w-40 needs, here is a resource to put your worries to rest.
https://motorday.com/best-synthetic-oils/
https://www.thedrive.com/reviews/27713/best-motor-oils
https://www.carcareninja.com/5w30-vs-5w40/

[Theiceman]

Back that train up..... home depot sells oil ???.


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