S3 - List of "tasteful" daily driver mods?

[ChUt26]

This weekend I may end up biting the bullet and trading in my B8.5 A4 to get a 2016 Sepang Blue S3. My A4 is bone stock with the only accessories I got for it was 30% tint all around and weather tech floor mats.

I'm just looking for some ideas from the existing 8v owners. This is going to be a daily commuter, and the very occasional drag track.

Currently I'm thinking:

Stage 1 ECU/TCU
Catback Exhaust (Milltek is what I'm leaning towards)
APR Lowering springs (wanna keep stock strut/shocks to keep the electronic suspension)
30% tint

[sj9ninety]

I would recommend all mods in my signature for a daily. I would advise against a catback if you plan to go stage 2, as it will be way too loud and drone when paired with a downpipe.

If I were to redo the tune, I would most likely go EQT. Nothing wrong with Uni, and its a great set it and forget it tune, however I eventually plan to upgrade the turbo.

[EthanS]

I would highly recommend adding a rear sway bar to that list. Not too expensive, and helps combat a lot of the inherent understeer found in the a3/s3.

[BecksA3]

Skip an aftermarket intake and get a 3” turbo inlet and silicone hose, a drop in high flow air filter, remove the snow screen, and open the air duct on the driver’s side.
Same flow as an aftermarket intake at about half the cost.

Get VAGCOM or OBDEleven and set the throttle response to linear, and tighten up the steering.


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[ChUt26]

I would recommend all mods in my signature for a daily. I would advise against a catback if you plan to go stage 2, as it will be way too loud and drone when paired with a downpipe.

If I were to redo the tune, I would most likely go EQT. Nothing wrong with Uni, and its a great set it and forget it tune, however I eventually plan to upgrade the turbo.

Is it bad even with a valved exhaust?

[TheDude420]

Not to be that guy but some of the of the mods I have in my signature minus the aesthetic ones. Sepang blue is the best S3 color for that year! I would love to own one but I love my white S3 with black optics and blacked out badges. I also went from a stock A4 (B7 though) that just had a few aesthetic mods to a Stage 2 S3 and the difference was huge. Congrats!

I forgot to add that if you're considering APR Roll-Control Lowering Springs give 034 Motorsport Dynamic Lowering Springs a look as well. They are very good and most people who own will recommend them including myself. APR springs are not bad but there are just so few reviews for them.

[ChUt26]

Not to be that guy but some of the of the mods I have in my signature minus the aesthetic ones. Sepang blue is the best S3 color for that year! I would love to own one but I love my white S3 with black optics and blacked out badges. I also went from a stock A4 (B7 though) that just had a few aesthetic mods to a Stage 2 S3 and the difference was huge. Congrats!

I forgot to add that if you're considering APR Roll-Control Lowering Springs give 034 Motorsport Dynamic Lowering Springs a look as well. They are very good and most people who own will recommend them including myself. APR springs are not bad but there are just so few reviews for them.

Thanks man! I still haven't fully committed to upgrading, but if I had to put a number on it I would say I'm 80% sure I will! I do love my A4, but the k03 just doesn't give me any kind of excitement at all.

I'll definitely look at the 034 springs. Not deadset on anything yet, so I'm still deciding what direction I want to go. All I know for sure is that I want 30% tint all the way around (darkest I can go in my state).

[nikuhina]

What others have said make a lot of sense. I would advise against engine/trans mounts for a daily as they just make the car rumble more when you’re going in between first gear engaged and no gear engaged.

[BecksA3]

Also, if you’re going to tune, I would recommend either Eurodyne or Cobb. They have flexibility for tunes and a pay one price model that allows you to change stages as you add mods without an up charge, as well as allowing for custom tunes from a wider variety of tuners.
I have Eurodyne, and was lucky enough to love the first tune that I loaded. They do get knocked for their customer service, but I haven’t needed it yet.

I’m not bashing any of the other off the shelf tuners. If you’re content with getting a stage 1 tune and not go further, then they will all work well for you.
Most of us find eventually that “just a little more would be nice”.


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[CrazyCarl4444]

Get VAGCOM or OBDEleven and set the throttle response to linear, and tighten up the steering.


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I have OBD11, please tell me how to do both of these!

[CavEsk1337]

I would recommend all mods in my signature for a daily. I would advise against a catback if you plan to go stage 2, as it will be way too loud and drone when paired with a downpipe.

If I were to redo the tune, I would most likely go EQT. Nothing wrong with Uni, and its a great set it and forget it tune, however I eventually plan to upgrade the turbo.

I second all of this!

[Gberg888]

1) Go with a stage 1 tune. Doing anything more will be a waste and a headache unless you want to spend the $1500 for a downpipe that wont throw codes. Stage 2 tunes require downpipes and is just more headache than its worth. I can also assure you the stage 1 tune will be a huge upgrade over stock and will truly wake the car up in every manner of the engine functionality. I have no EXP with a tcu tune, but I had one on my B8 DSG S4 and i can tell you that the S3 DSG is much better than even the tuned B8 S4 DSG. So Id drive the car for a while and then decide if you need a transmission tune. I decided I did not as I found the car shifting right when I was going to anyways. Plus, the computer in the trans learns your diving habits and therefor will adjust over time to suit your style and general shifting points.

2) I would highly suggest going with a MSS Spring kit. It does not matter which setup from them (Track fronts, street rears, vise versa... whatever). I can tell you that their springs are height adjustable although the front are not the easiest to adjust. I can also tell you these springs have completed revolutionized the different suspension modes if you have the adaptive suspension. It makes the dynamic much more stiff and the comfort actually more comfortable somehow.

3) I would definitely not recommend any sort of full exhaust. Its just going to add noise and no one ever said the 2.0t sounded good. Plus you do not gain any HP from it on a bolton motor. You best bet here is to get a resonator delete for a little extra growl but nothing more. Its cheap and easy to install. Took only 1 hr for me on jack stands.

4) I would also avoid all air intakes and just go with the euro airbox block off plate and a upgraded panel filter for the stock airbox as well as removing the snow guard. I am in mass and can confirm the snow guard does nothing. Most dynos for a full intake show barely any gains and they are all like $300+ dollars. For 25 bucks for the block off and 50 for a filter you can have 95% of the gains for 1/4 or less the price.

5) A Rear swaybar and Moog end-links or 034 end-links with the bushings, not heim joints, would be next. Helps level the car in corners for added grip and wont wear out like heim joint endlinks will. I would recommend going with 034. I went with Euro code and regret it. (just not a good product overall, its cheap its heavy and, it reuses the oem brackets where other companies add their own with grease-able ports to help with noise... its much worth the extra dollars.

Fell free to search my user name on the forum. I have write-ups for almost everything I have listed.

[Spinnetti]

Is your current car worn out? Makes most sense to just keep what you have. The 3 is a downgrade from the 4 in most respects (I've had 3 A4's)

[CavEsk1337]

1) Go with a stage 1 tune. Doing anything more will be a waste and a headache unless you want to spend the $1500 for a downpipe that wont throw codes. Stage 2 tunes require downpipes and is just more headache than its worth. I can also assure you the stage 1 tune will be a huge upgrade over stock and will truly wake the car up in every manner of the engine functionality. I have no EXP with a tcu tune, but I had one on my B8 DSG S4 and i can tell you that the S3 DSG is much better than even the tuned B8 S4 DSG. So Id drive the car for a while and then decide if you need a transmission tune. I decided I did not as I found the car shifting right when I was going to anyways. Plus, the computer in the trans learns your diving habits and therefor will adjust over time to suit your style and general shifting points.

I agree JB4 or stage 1 definitely wakes the car up, but I don't think stage 2 is a waste(especially if you don't require annual inspections). You can purchase a cheaper downpipe if you go stage 2 since it will clear the CEL for the downpipe. The power of stage 2 is very linear and pulls very nice and has more than enough power for a DD/occasional track car. That being said, EQT tune is the way to go if you want to add some ethanol or bump the power up down the road.

[TheDude420]

I have OBD11, please tell me how to do both of these!

The throttle response changes how much power the car provides to you when you push the accelerator. I changed the throttle response last year and at first it felt better but I changed it back to incremental after a few days. Incremental provides power over time while direct controlled provides power immediately. To me incremental felt better at Stage 2. Direct controlled made my car feel like an ordinary car rather than a tuned little rocket. Maybe on a stock S3 I would feel differently.

To change it:

OBD11
44 steering assist- adaptation - driving profile switch over - set to "incremental" changed to "direct" - entered security code 19249

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[Davethaboss]

What others have said make a lot of sense. I would advise against engine/trans mounts for a daily as they just make the car rumble more when you’re going in between first gear engaged and no gear engaged.

Question:

I currently have the dogbone insert mount and am in love with it. It actually made my 0-60 times faster and I have less wheel spin now.

Will Rear Subframe Mounts from 034 make as much of a difference? I am trying to avoid introducing more NVH as the dogbone insert mount seems to only introduce that when I move about 100rpm after moving from a stop. Do these additional mounts make the chassis too rigid? The car is sporty and somewhat uncomfortable off the gate, I just do not want to make it worse. I can deal with drone at 3k RPM while in 6th gear and the above mentioned problem. I just think an additional "noise" would just annoy me more at this point haha.

What do you think?

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[FastMike]

I currently have the upper and lower 034 dogbone Inserts and there is some vibration at low rpms but I like it. Next week I'll be installing front collars and rear Inserts from 034 motorsports. I'll post back next week for some feedback. You will need a re alignment after installing the front collar kit btw.

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[Gberg888]

I agree JB4 or stage 1 definitely wakes the car up, but I don't think stage 2 is a waste(especially if you don't require annual inspections). You can purchase a cheaper downpipe if you go stage 2 since it will clear the CEL for the downpipe. The power of stage 2 is very linear and pulls very nice and has more than enough power for a DD/occasional track car. That being said, EQT tune is the way to go if you want to add some ethanol or bump the power up down the road.

Depending on your state and what sort of inspections you have to go through annually or on whatever schedule, its a MASSIVE PITA.

I am in Mass which makes doing a downpipe very difficult because if it throws a code or a readiness monitor is not passing i am forced to go to a special inspection center with grumpy old men who are very unhappy with life and take pride in sharing their pain with you by fucking you and your modded car 6 ways to Sunday. They will make you remove every single mod for whatever stupid reason they can come up with even if it does not make sense. Thus, its much better to not run into them, hence Stage 2 is not worth it.

[CavEsk1337]

Depending on your state and what sort of inspections you have to go through annually or on whatever schedule, its a MASSIVE PITA.

I am in Mass which makes doing a downpipe very difficult because if it throws a code or a readiness monitor is not passing i am forced to go to a special inspection center with grumpy old men who are very unhappy with life and take pride in sharing their pain with you by fucking you and your modded car 6 ways to Sunday. They will make you remove every single mod for whatever stupid reason they can come up with even if it does not make sense. Thus, its much better to not run into them, hence Stage 2 is not worth it.

Ouch. I agree that is most definitely not worth it. Glad I don't have to deal with those issues!

[TheDude420]

Ouch. I agree that is most definitely not worth it. Glad I don't have to deal with those issues!

Same here! It's BS what some state's DMV make people go through. I bought my APR Stage 2 in NJ back in February 2019. I drove it back home to FL and the DMV process was simple. The 'inspection' consisted of a DMV lady writing down the number of miles on the dash and checking the VIN. I was not asked if the car was tuned or modded and they did not ask to check the engine or look under the car. I did have to pay $2k and some change in state taxes though! :(

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[pantstofry]

Yeah fear of inspection is why I'm not planning on going stage 2 at the moment. I still am somewhat new to the inspection thoroughness in this state, having only gone through it once when I moved here a couple years ago. It was pretty much the same process as my previous state (Illinois) in terms of emissions testing. My previous car was stock, though, so I didn't get any grief here like I did in IL having a tuned car in the past.

[CavEsk1337]

Yeah fear of inspection is why I'm not planning on going stage 2 at the moment. I still am somewhat new to the inspection thoroughness in this state, having only gone through it once when I moved here a couple years ago. It was pretty much the same process as my previous state (Illinois) in terms of emissions testing. My previous car was stock, though, so I didn't get any grief here like I did in IL having a tuned car in the past.

I'm guessing you were Chicagoland or near STL? Here in rural ass central IL, no inspections of any kind whatsoever. :D

[ralphie_43]

Here my stage 2 daily driver
-bullx catted Downpipe
-3” magnaflow exhaust
-bullx intercooler
-neuspeed high flow charge and discharge pipes
-k&n intake filter
-APR Roll control Springs
-S5 Peelers 19x9 et33 255/35R19
-Neuspeed rear sway bar and end links

I love my car never really had any real issues that were a big problem I love my car never left me stranded very reliable
0D71C55A-B3C2-4383-AD73-CAE246B87434.jpg


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[Kevin quattro]

Firstly, please do it. You'll fall in love with the platform. Im on my second mqb car. They drive so well and you can easily get awesome power out of them.

As for mods to do, first do a cold air intake, a stage 1 tune, and lowering springs.

I would do EMD lowering springs. They seem seem to be the most popular for our platform. Maintain great ride quality while getting that lowered look and improved handling/performance. They're a linear spring like stock whereas most are progressive rate and are very stiff as a result. I live in michigan so I'm biased. Worst roads in the US.

As far as tuners go I would say Cobb/EQT is your best bet. You can start small and change the tune as you like. IE is another good one.

For cai 034 would be my recommendation. Im replacing my apr intake with theirs.

You mentioned a cat-back. I would recommend the other things long before doing that, because you won't gain any real performance from it, but that's a matter of taste too. If you just want a more aggressive sound that'll do it. I have a scorpion resonated cat-back and I love it. Its not ricer but it sounds aggressive af. Nice deep rumble. If you do get a cat-back make sure it's resonated if you want it to be "tasteful".

Let us know if you pull the trigger. I promise you won't regret it!

[BecksA3]

Firstly, please do it. You'll fall in love with the platform. Im on my second mqb car. They drive so well and you can easily get awesome power out of them.

As for mods to do, first do a cold air intake, a stage 1 tune, and lowering springs.

I would do EMD lowering springs. They seem seem to be the most popular for our platform. Maintain great ride quality while getting that lowered look and improved handling/performance. They're a linear spring like stock whereas most are progressive rate and are very stiff as a result. I live in michigan so I'm biased. Worst roads in the US.

As far as tuners go I would say Cobb/EQT is your best bet. You can start small and change the tune as you like. IE is another good one.

For cai 034 would be my recommendation. Im replacing my apr intake with theirs.

You mentioned a cat-back. I would recommend the other things long before doing that, because you won't gain any real performance from it, but that's a matter of taste too. If you just want a more aggressive sound that'll do it. I have a scorpion resonated cat-back and I love it. Its not ricer but it sounds aggressive af. Nice deep rumble. If you do get a cat-back make sure it's resonated if you want it to be "tasteful".

Let us know if you pull the trigger. I promise you won't regret it!

You can get the same results as a cai for less than half the cost of new with a turbo inlet, silicone hose, drop in filter, air box snow screen delete, and the air duct mod that opens up the driver’s side.

Turbo inlets pop up in the classifieds pretty regularly for less than $100. I bought my silicone hose new on sale for $70. With the money you save there, I would recommend an aftermarket diverter valve, or an OBDeleven, if you don’t have one.

The diverter valve is tricky since there’s not a lot of room in there. My set up is a dv+ from GFB, inlet from CTS, and a silicone hose from DFG. It all goes together with no trimming or grinding. And doing them all at the same time will make it easier to get to the lower bolt on the dv+.


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[pantstofry]

I'm guessing you were Chicagoland or near STL? Here in rural ass central IL, no inspections of any kind whatsoever. :D

Yeah I was NW of Chicago, I could imagine they care less in the rural part since there's not as much congestion/risk for smog buildup etc.

[QuadRings]

Seems like you have a good list going of tasteful stuff. I'm in the same boat as you as far as what I want, even though I only have a fake S3 (A3 s-line with sport suspension). For the intakes, look on the facebook groups and forums. I actually got an Afe Intake without the filter for $100. New filter and the closed box cap I bought separate, whole deal cost me under $200. Did a turbo inlet pipe too, and I think all in all in provided a little better throttle response, and sounds great. Only really hear it if you get on it, otherwise it sounds stock, which is what I want. Moral of the story, lots of used stuff in great condition can be found cheap if it's things like intake/exhaust, etc. Things like springs I'd prob lean towards going new on.

[BecksA3]

@focusfuri75 has your intake setup in the classifieds


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[Mikehenryjr]

Rear European headrests were the best mod I have made to my S3 and RS3. You can finally see out the back of the vehicle.

[TheDude420]

Rear European headrests were the best mod I have made to my S3 and RS3. You can finally see out the back of the vehicle.

Where did you get them?

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[BecksA3]

Where did you get them?

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I bought a set from a member from an S4 for $60. It is nice being able to see out of the whole rear window.

+1 on the best mod. Even the mrs. likes it.
Image1602448957.705098.jpg


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[TheDude420]

I bought a set from a member from an S4 for $60. It is nice being able to see out of the whole rear window.

+1 on the best mod. Even the mrs. likes it.
Image1602448957.705098.jpg


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Nice visibility. I have the diamond stitching pattern on my S3 seats so I'd like the RS3 low profile headrests. They're probably expensive though.

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[BecksA3]

Nice visibility. I have the diamond stitching pattern on my S3 seats so I'd like the RS3 low profile headrests. They're probably expensive though.

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That I don’t know. I lucked in to these.


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