PCV system, Excessive oil in cylinders

[Epic-A3]

Ok, this will be lengthy so I apologize.
My 06 A3 BPY is built and I've been driving it.. almost 500 miles now.
So the issue I've had and am having is I am burning an insane amount of oil in all 4 cylinders. I foul number 2 and 3 plugs in 20 or less miles. 1 and 4 have oil in the cylinder but not enough to foul the plugs.
The common test have been done at the shop I work at. Compression test wet and dry, valve seals have been eliminated by process of elimination ( mainly because seals are new and all 4 cylinders have oil eliminating a few bad valve seal. Definitely not turbo, checked wable and have none. Also new with 500 miles. It's been smoking since I started the car but continues to get worse. It's the worst at idel ( made me think valve stem seal).
So I had the 034 plate with catch can for front PCV, and updated factory rear PCV. At the beginning I changed back to the stock front PCV with a catch can inline to possibly eliminate the smoke. It didn't get better or worse. (I should note my valve cover is new, but it was meant for a A4 not my A3.) So I pulled the rear PCV tube and it was full of oil. I had a very high end tech look at this today and he's convinced I'm getting all the oil through the intake. I tend to agree, but am lost as to how this would be happening in the volume that it is. I have a plug and block off plate for the rear breather but have been advised several times NOT to do that. Any help would be appreciated, and would like to know if there is a difference between the A3 AND A4 valve cover that could cause this. On inspection they look identical top and bottom, ports... everything looks the same.

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[Epic-A3]

Also my oil pressure is on the high side. That will be fixed this week.

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[ROH ECHT]

High Oil pressure could be contributing a great deal...wait and see the difference once you have that sorted.

The valve cover I am seeing you should have for the A3 BPY is PN; 06F 103 469 K
For the A4 BPY is PN; 06D 103 469 N
Not sure why the A3, MK5 GTI, MK6 Golf R and more show revision only going to 'K'...and the A4 goes to 'N'. Perhaps the only diff is the A4 doesn't have the extended filler neck, right? Perhaps all else is the same other than that one thing.

If the repair of the oil pressure shows no improvement and no other issue is found; I would return the rear breather as it needs to be there unless you have a VTA catch-can. The crankcase pressure needs to be able to be open to atmosphere (recycled into the intake in our case) under pressure. By having it plugged, you increase crankcase pressure whenever the engine is not in vacuum. This is not safe.

[Epic-A3]

Yes the filler neck is the only thing I can see that's actually different on the 2 valve covers.
My original thought was to put the block off plate on the turbo, and run a hose from the rear breather either to atmosphere or to a catch can.
As far as dropping some oil pressure, my only 2 easy fixes are drop the weight of the oil and remove the restrictor bolt going to the turbo. With the balance shaft delete being done and having a oil return blocked to maintain oil pressure.... It goes to high now. It's around 25-35 when the engine is warm but will blast up to 120-140 on acceleration.

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[ROH ECHT]

When you did the shaft delete...did you swap to the 1.8L pick-up tube as well? Not sure why this is done with the delete, but worth looking into if only the shafts were removed.

With the rear breather tube plate and VTA issue...I personally would incorporate the VTA catch-can into the VTA line just to reduce the output of oil.

I have yet heard of a turbo restriction or blocked return with the 1.8 conversion kits...couldn't this be the cause of the problem? I have looked into a good number of threads related to this and cannot recall this. If you are interested, I suggest registering here because there is more shaft deletes being done on this forum: https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?board=3.0

[Epic-A3]

The shaft delete doesn't require the 1.8T pick up although it is an option. I chose to stay with the original FSI setup, after you tap and plug the oil return it removes the need for additional modification.
To up date, I ran another series of tests yesterday for about 7 hours. Unfortunately it's looking like I am indeed pulling oil past 4 intake valve stem seals. It only fouls the spark plugs under vacuum. If you drive under load or boost, the plugs barley see any oil. I'm taking on the task of replacing all 8 intake seals. I brought the oil pressure down by removing a restrictor bolt to the turbo. Not by much, but enough to make me comfortable. I did install the block off plate on the turbo and made a custom tube that leads to a filter, as well as installing a front block off plate ( mainly to eliminate these 2 things as the cause of oil getting into the intake track) there was no change or Ill effect from doing this. I will update this post after the valve stem seals are replaced.

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[ROH ECHT]

The shaft delete doesn't require the 1.8T pick up although it is an option. I chose to stay with the original FSI setup, after you tap and plug the oil return it removes the need for additional modification.
To up date, I ran another series of tests yesterday for about 7 hours. Unfortunately it's looking like I am indeed pulling oil past 4 intake valve stem seals. It only fouls the spark plugs under vacuum. If you drive under load or boost, the plugs barley see any oil. I'm taking on the task of replacing all 8 intake seals. I brought the oil pressure down by removing a restrictor bolt to the turbo. Not by much, but enough to make me comfortable. I did install the block off plate on the turbo and made a custom tube that leads to a filter, as well as installing a front block off plate ( mainly to eliminate these 2 things as the cause of oil getting into the intake track) there was no change or Ill effect from doing this. I will update this post after the valve stem seals are replaced.

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OK, I saw "valve seals have been eliminated by process of elimination ( mainly because seals are new..." in your first post. Why again thinking the seals.
You may have worn valve stem guides as well. You may want to address them at the same time...but the head must be removed for this. Not certain if the clearance specs between valve stem and guide can be checked without removing the head...but maybe. The guides in mine were worn at 120k miles and I did both seals and guides.

Are you running an oem turbo? I heard a restriction bolt was only necessary for some big turbos.

[Epic-A3]

I had thought the valve stem seals had been eliminated, but after taking all other possible scenarios out like rings, and pcv. I did a few driving tests.
1st I drove with out decelerating for about 5 miles, stop along side the road and pulled the plugs... they looked perfect.
2nd I drove that same 5 miles normal stop and go, returned to the shop I work at and let it idle. Pull plugs and they are fouled. So I have to be pulling oil past the valve stem seals. The guides are possible, but the head is brand new. I checked valve play in the guides when assembling, they checked a few thousands which is perfect. Also I vaccum checked all the intake and exhaust ports before installing for valve seal and potential issues with the guide it self, they check great at 22lbs of vaccum and a 7 second leak down.
The turbo is a K03 conversion from G pop shop, it's been modified to the spec of a K04 or slightly larger. The turbo is good, I've check for wobble and put a scope down the compressor side to look for oil around the wheel.. all clear thank god.
I will change the seals and check for any guide movement while I'm in there. Thanks for the suggestion on that, it didn't occur to check the OD of the guides now that there has been plenty of heat cycles on it now.

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[ROH ECHT]

Also, when running the oem PCV...be sure you have the PCV and Rear breather tube paired properly.

There are two PCV designs and two breather tube designs. Both PCVs will work with one of the tubes, the valved tube, but one of the PCVs should be paired with just the PCV with the open tube.

This PCV, with a valve in the circled area, fits the rear tube with no valve in the tube's top opening;


Rear tube no valve:


This PCV, having no valve where circled, pairs with the valved rear tube:


Rear tube w/valve:


Remember, both PCVs will work with the valved tube, but it is unnecessary as they should just be paired properly.

[Epic-A3]

I had the valves pcv, paired with the rear breather that has a check valve.

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[Epic-A3]

Would pairing these up incorrectly great excessive oil in the intake track or excessive vaccum at idle?

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[Epic-A3]

I have all 3 variations of front pcv, a block off plate that only has the CC vent, the 034 setup for a catch can, and the OEM front with the small check valve as you have circled. I've run all 3 while trouble shooting this issue. Unfortunately no combination has worked. Only leaving hours of labor intensive work to take care of the issue. I most confused because I'm using the IE valve stem seals, I've not read any bad about them. I'm switch to a high temp seal we use on Subaru and Honda heads. I've never had an issue with those, or our customers would let us know quickly.

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[ROH ECHT]

The concern of having the valve in the PCV where circled and a valved breather tube, even though this will work, is there are two valves which must work. They must both open when there's positive crankcase pressure present.

I believe there's a preference to the open rear tube paired with the valved PCV so when there's an issue...just the PCV needs replacing. VW moved the valve from the PCV to the rear tube because a noticeable number of the rocker/valve covers were coming apart inside where the EVAP and PCV is routed through the cover.

Sometimes the issue with the PCV is the large diaphragm-valve inside the large disc of the PCV. The diaphragm is a redirection valve and it must be functioning as well. It remains closed under vacuum and opens at the absence of vacuum to direct pressure to escape out into the rear tube and into the inlet.

If this were me and mine...I would sort out the oil pressure...then the oil in the cylinders if when oil pressure is good but still you find oil in them. A good stem seal will not help if there is too much wear in the stem guides....or too much crankcase pressure.

[Epic-A3]

Ok, as of now... I have the pcv system set up old school. All crank case pressure is being vented to atmosphere. Also before I switched back to a factory front pcv, I did have way to much CC pressure. After swapping the front back to OEM, it went back to normal. I only deleted all pcv systems to eliminate them as the cause of oil in the cylinders. As for oil pressure, the high end is around 120PSI. I'm not able to find anyone who knows the max oil pressure that is allowable with out damage . I have the car ripped apart now, just waiting on my tool to come in to change seals. I agree on the oil pressure issue, but that may have to wait until spring when I can pull the oil pan and pump again to relieve more pressure. What's odd is at idle the oil pressure seems normal. Give it some heavy throttle and it just shoots right up. I've read some Mitsubishi guys saying that after deleting there balance shafts that oil pressure was much higher. So it would be nice to hear if my oil pressure will cause an issue or if I should leave it alone.

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[ROH ECHT]

Perhaps you can offer up your concerns here; https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?board=3.0

I am on this forum as well, but the shaft delete is a more common thing to do over there.
Someone may be able to recognize your issue and have some very helpful feedback.
You may try messaging R-Tech; http://r-techperformance.co.uk/ ...they do the shaft delete as a service and they may take the time to respond to you.

[Epic-A3]

Just want to update, so in the past few days I've taken out several valve springs to replace seals. Well unfortunately what I found was 2 crappy things. 1st the seals were barley doing there job. New IE seals, but in 500 miles they were already going bad, so that was a contributing factor to my oil in the cylinders. 2nd and definitely the more serious issue, was 3 of my valve guides were indeed worn badly like mentioned before in this post. Not slightly bad either, I mean when I pulled the head and checked valve play. It was .070 or more. So I've replaced all the guides with the best bronze alloy guides I can find in 6mm. I'm also replacing all of my intake valves, 3 took damage on the stem. After a valve job tomorrow I'll rebuild the head with a few more shims to maintain spring pressure. Then back on the car.

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[ROH ECHT]

Nice...progress.

My valve guides were replaced at 120k miles when I opted for the work. My issue turned out to be mostly a piston ring, but the head work was how I found the ring issue. Anyhow, I got my valve guides and seals here in Sheridan at Techtonics Tuning. Not sure why they do not include the brand..but the material is listed; https://techtonicstuning.com/main/in...1_868_1022_871

[Epic-A3]

Just want to add, that if you ever do replace your valve guides, that a valve job is a absolute requirement. Here is my head after the new guides were installed and valve job is done.
Monday I will reassemble the head and put the car back together. I'll update if all of this work fixed the problem, but I'm sure it will be fine. 20200924_111226.jpg

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[Epic-A3]

This is how bad the guides were worn. I'm still trying to figure out why the guides wore with in 500 miles. The head is from AMC and quality seemed normal for a OE replacement.
Obviously the guide on the left is the most extreme example. I've since switched to a 1mm oversized Ferrea valve.
Everything should be back together in the next 3 days for a test run. 20200925_133849.jpg

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[ROH ECHT]

Nice work...been there before.
It seems someone from AMC was possibly going through the motions on the day and not checking specs and all. I doubt it would've worn that quickly. Was probably a guide or valve they should've tossed if they had calipered them.
Fun cleaning the inlet ports? I had mine placed in a steam wash cabinet at a machine shop. Had to sit in there for over a day.

[Epic-A3]

The head had little carbon build up. Fortunately I work at a engine shop, so I just cleaned them out by hand in a parts washer with a brush.

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[Epic-A3]

The car is back together, everything checks out good now. No smoke at idel, it was just the valve guides and valve seals. Thanks for the suggestions on valve guides.

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