Intake & Turbo Inlet Compatibility

[walsh]

Title pretty much says it although I’m particularly interested in what turbo inlets people are currently running with the eventuri intakes. As a rule of thumb if it’s a 4” turbo inlet and the intake has a 4” pipe you can probably get a universal coupler and run the two together. I’m just curious to see who is actually running what setups, if they’re working well or not, and any particular notes for that setup regarding install, etc.


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[Domino_z]

Forge 3.5” + forge 3.5” hardpipe

I’ve seen plenty of 700hp builds with this combo and stock airbox, sure you could argue there’s 10-20 or so hp left on the table, but would you even feel it at that power level vs stock

I’ve had eventuri intakes on my past builds, but I can’t really justify the price this time round, it’s more than half way to a tte700

I’m also not a fan of the ricer turbo whoosh sounds from an intake on this car getting off throttle - my f80 m3 didn’t have a bov or dv, so it was just all spool with the eventuri

[allerum]

I've ordered a 4 inch coupler to mate the cts 4 inch intake to my UNI 4 inch inlet. Currently It has the 3 inch intake with a reverse coupler from 4 to 3.

[Dirty_Erdy]

I've ordered a 4 inch coupler to mate the cts 4 inch intake to my UNI 4 inch inlet. Currently It has the 3 inch intake with a reverse coupler from 4 to 3.

Keep me posted on how this install goes. I currently have the 4" CTS intake and I'm hoping to get a 4" Unitronic Turbo Inlet soon.

[bucolic]

Keep me posted on how this install goes. I currently have the 4" CTS intake and I'm hoping to get a 4" Unitronic Turbo Inlet soon.

X2. Doing the exact same thing...

[Fear37]

Keep me posted on how this install goes. I currently have the 4" CTS intake and I'm hoping to get a 4" Unitronic Turbo Inlet soon.

X2. Doing the exact same thing...

Just wondering how come you guys didn't go with the CTS 4" inlet which should be direct fit. Or go with both uni inlet and intake?

[Dirty_Erdy]

Just wondering how come you guys didn't go with the CTS 4" inlet which should be direct fit. Or go with both uni inlet and intake?

The Uni elbow has adapters you can buy to accomodate the popular hybrid turbo options. The CTS one does not appear to have that option at the moment.

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[bucolic]

I had the CTS 4" turbo inlet pipe but sold it when I decided that the 4" Uni turbo inlet design/build quality seems superior. It's important to me since the OEM turbo inlet seems to be one of the most restrictive parts when doing bolt on mods...

[Fear37]

I had the CTS 4" turbo inlet pipe but sold it when I decided that the 4" Uni turbo inlet design/build quality seems superior. It's important to me since the OEM turbo inlet seems to be one of the most restrictive parts when doing bolt on mods...

The Uni elbow has adapters you can buy to accomodate the popular hybrid turbo options. The CTS one does not appear to have that option at the moment.

Make sense, thanks

[CdnaudiS4]

What do I need to get the 4” unitronic inlet to match with my 4” CTS intake? I don’t feel like trying to sell my 4” CTS intake for a Unitronic intake. But I am set on the unitronic inlet for sure

[Dirty_Erdy]

What do I need to get the 4” unitronic inlet to match with my 4” CTS intake? I don’t feel like trying to sell my 4” CTS intake for a Unitronic intake. But I am set on the unitronic inlet for sure

CTS sells a 4" straight piece of silicone hose for this exact purpose. You will have to cut it to the correct length though. I haven't done it yet and I'm interested if there are any fit up problems.

Also, does anyone have a solution to the CTS intake fouling the electrical connector mounted under the cowl??? I know the IE intake has a relocating bracket included with their kit.

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[StreetLethal]

I am also interested if anyone has experience with OP’s original question, does the 4” Eventuri intake mate up to a 4” inlet with just a silicon coupler? Does anyone run this combo? I like Uni’s inlet design a bit better than the Eventuri carbon inlet, I’d guess that metal does a bit better longevity wise than 2mm thick carbon fiber.

[allerum]

So to make the CTS intake work with the Uni 4 inch inlet you do need to have a straight coupler that's about 6 inches. This tilts the other end of the pipe downwards that does not fit that giant filter they supplied. So I had to use the smaller CTS intake's filter which is fat and short and not as long as the other one. This all fits up and nothing is banging. But the metal pipe is close to the box so I had to scoot it up on the screw to stop it touching. Currently it fits including the top added so its a more closed box.

[Vali]

I've currently got an open APR intake/inlet setup, but this was thrown together long before stage 3 plans. What is my best bet at this point? The heatsoak is real, and I'm looking for the most beneficial closed setup. Would the 4" APR turbo inlet need to be replaced, or would there be compatibility with other intakes?

[CdnaudiS4]

CTS sells a 4" straight piece of silicone hose for this exact purpose. You will have to cut it to the correct length though. I haven't done it yet and I'm interested if there are any fit up problems.

Also, does anyone have a solution to the CTS intake fouling the electrical connector mounted under the cowl??? I know the IE intake has a relocating bracket included with their kit.

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It has been about 6 months now. Have you or anyone used the silicone coupler to match the 4" Uni inlet to their 4" CTS intake? I'm about to place an order for the Unit inlet but wanted to make sure it 100% will fit.

[VirtuousWolf]

Not sure if this helps, but I’m currently running a Unitronic 4 inch turbo inlet, with the apr 4 inch intake

It has been about 6 months now. Have you or anyone used the silicone coupler to match the 4" Uni inlet to their 4" CTS intake? I'm about to place an order for the Unit inlet but wanted to make sure it 100% will fit.

[CdnaudiS4]

Not sure if this helps, but I’m currently running a Unitronic 4 inch turbo inlet, with the apr 4 inch intake

Was it as simple as just using a coupler? Uni intake IMO was just way too expensive just for an intake so I went with the CTS one haha.

[xiaphin]

For those with the Unitronic 3" or 4" turbo inlet what did you do about the wastegate line? I have the 3" installed but wasn't able to attach the bracket on stock wastegate line to back side of the inlet without putting too much stress on the short rubber line connecting to the wastegate. The metal part of this line is currently making contact with back and top sides of the inlet. Does the Unitronic upgraded wastegate line replace the entire stock metal/rubber line or do you replace each rubber section individually? If replaced entirely how did you route/secure it. Pics below.

[JustASix]

The Unitronic upgraded line replaces the entire line from the wastegate all the way to the opposite side of the cylinder head.

[0000 RS5]

The Unitronic upgraded line replaces the entire line from the wastegate all the way to the opposite side of the cylinder head.

The upgraded line is required for the 4”, I believe. The 3” can reuse the stock. Mine fit on my 3” Uni turbo inlet.


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[Sho Off]

I just finished the install and the wastegate line sits on top of the inlet. It is raised, there are 2 rubber sections that keep it up a bit higher. There is some stress, but it did fit pretty well.

I do have the 3 inch inlet and a coupler from 3 to 4 inch to connect to my 4 inch CTS Turbo intake.

[Arelax]

I have the CTS 4" intake and 4" unitronic inlet. fits perfectly fine, 4" circle is a 4" circle no matter who makes it.

I used the 4" coupler that came with the CTS intake, didnt need to cut it at all.

Use the silicone wastegate line from the unitronic inlet kit.

FWIW, the APR 4" inlet looks to be a better investment. I really like how it has the heat shield. seems to be a much better design/engineered piece and comes with a more robust wastegate line.

[RSpeeds]

I have the CTS 4" intake and 4" unitronic inlet. fits perfectly fine, 4" circle is a 4" circle no matter who makes it.

I used the 4" coupler that came with the CTS intake, didnt need to cut it at all.

Use the silicone wastegate line from the unitronic inlet kit.

FWIW, the APR 4" inlet looks to be a better investment. I really like how it has the heat shield. seems to be a much better design/engineered piece and comes with a more robust wastegate line.

When I installed mine initially it was fine as well. After a few hundred miles it settled along the firewall and started rubbing. I bought the ECS coupler linked below and it moved the pipe far enough away from the firewall to stop the rubbing.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part.../006669la01~a/

[Arelax]

When I installed my initially it was fine as well. After a few hundred miles it settled along the firewall and started rubbing. I bought the ECS coupler linked below and it moved the pipe far enough away from the firewall to stop the rubbing.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part.../006669la01~a/

mine currently only rubs against that bracket holding 2 electrical plugs on the firewall. i put a piece of rubber between the intake and that bracket, I can't see it being an issue but ill take another look. Thanks for the advice!

[xiaphin]

For those that have installed the Uni or any 4" inlet for that matter, what tool or setup of tools did you use to access the inlet bolts? My car currently has the Uni 3" inlet which I was able to do with my current tool setup but I underestimated the size increase on the inlet near the flange. Didn't need to remove the charge pipe for the 3" install. I attempted to install the uni 4" last night but didn't have any combination of torx bits, sockets, or drivers that would work. Any input is appreciated.

Also there isn't a different length 4" coupler required to put an 4" APR intake on a 4" Uni inlet is there?

[8STTRS]

For those that have installed the Uni or any 4" inlet for that matter, what tool or setup of tools did you use to access the inlet bolts? My car currently has the Uni 3" inlet which I was able to do with my current tool setup but I underestimated the size increase on the inlet near the flange. Didn't need to remove the charge pipe for the 3" install. I attempted to install the uni 4" last night but didn't have any combination of torx bits, sockets, or drivers that would work. Any input is appreciated.

Also there isn't a different length 4" coupler required to put an 4" APR intake on a 4" Uni inlet is there?

I recently installed an Eventuri 4" Carbon Fiber inlet to an AWE 4.5" Carbon Fiber CAI. For me, I actually went underneath the car and removed the turbo outlet pipe going to the intercooler to give me clearance to remove the inlet bolts on the turbo. Then, I installed the inlet with the outlet pipe still off of the car. Once that was complete, I put the outlet pipe back on and the continued the installation of the CAI.

[bucolic]

Now have my open-element 4" CTS Turbo air intake to Unitronic 4" turbo inlet pipe without issue. Just hoping the larger 4" pipe clears my front strut tower brace waiting to go on...

[matthewgraves]

I've currently got an open APR intake/inlet setup, but this was thrown together long before stage 3 plans. What is my best bet at this point? The heatsoak is real, and I'm looking for the most beneficial closed setup. Would the 4" APR turbo inlet need to be replaced, or would there be compatibility with other intakes?

Did you ever get a response to your question so that you can deal with the heat soak. I have installed the same system and you are correct Heat soak is real. So whats the answer?
Replace the intake?

[iamthewolfman]

4" Uni inlet with AWE 4.5" intake here. No fitment issues using the 4.5 to 4" silicone coupler

[StreetLethal]

To address the first post, I now have a 4” Eventuri Gen2 intake mated to a 4” Unitronic inlet. Had a shop do the install (along with a Unitronic intercooler) so can’t speak to the difficulty. I posted this in another thread as well, but basically they had trouble mating the two and so my car sat in the shop over a weekend until I could source a six inch long 4” inner diameter silicone coupler off Amazon. Once they had this it was easy to mate the two, as there is about a 3-4” gap between the inlet and intake once installed. Of note, I also have midpipes on the car.

About 3-4 weeks afterwards I started noticing a subtle shudder on partial throttle only, right around 2,500 RPMS, and especially on incline, like the car was lugging or gears were slipping. More throttle and it goes away. It felt drivetrain related to me so I brought it to Audi to have them check it. They were able to replicate the issue and basically said it wasn’t the drivetrain (happened in comfort mode as well as dynamic, and also when rear axle was disengaged) and suggested it was my intake. It may be that the stock ECU is having trouble with that particular combo of airflow and load given the non-stock components, or Audi goofed and it is actually drivetrain related. I am not tuned yet but wanted to make sure the tranny and engine were okay given this new issue. I am not convinced its the intake that caused this issue, but just food for thought. I plan on tuning soon once my warranty expires, and will update this thread if the problem goes away.