REALLY rough idle (cam adjustment actuator 7213)

[AnthraciteA4]

I am reasonably sure that I have a blown RMS and I am already planning on replacing it and the PCV since thats probably what killed the RMS in the first place.
I just replaced the spark plugs and coil packs with the kit from USP.
I am pretty sure the random all cylinders misfire goes away when I disconnect and block off the PCV -> Intake hose because the idle improves. Evidence of the RMS being blown.
I just cleaned the MAF and replaced the air filter with an aFe drop in filter because the previous one was filthy.
I bought an oil level sensor and oil change kit from FCP as a precaution, but I am prepared to trace the wiring in case it is worn somewhere. I was going to work on it today, but the temp just dropped from a high of 94 yesterday to 33 and snowing today.

I have done some reading and every instance of the code I am getting was because someone's wiring had come loose, but they are getting the code for all 4 cylinders whereas mine is just cylinder 2. I cleared all of the codes and took it for a trip around the block to see what came back because I had about a million codes from the previous battery being weak and under voltage. I have since replaced the battery.

Here is what VCDS says:
Address 01: Engine (0-----CAEB) Labels:| 06H-907-115-CAB.clb
Part No SW: 8K2 907 115 AG HW: 8K2 907 115 D
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TF H20 0002
Revision: E1H20---
Coding: 0104010A290F0160
Shop #: WSC 06208 000 00000
ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM20TFS0118K2907115AG 001002
ROD: EV_ECM20TFS0118K2907115AG.rod
VCID: 74E769D7DFBB262607-8020

6 Faults Found:
4635 - Engine Oil Temp. Sensor (G8)
P0196 00 [039] - Implausible Signal
Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 208275 km
Date: 2020.09.08
Time: 16:39:01

Engine speed: 0.00 /min
Normed load value: 0.0 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 67 °C
Intake air temperature: 14 °C
Ambient air pressure: 800 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 12.274 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40

4640 - Engine Oil Temp. Sensor (G8)
P0197 00 [036] - Signal too Low
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 208275 km
Date: 2020.09.08
Time: 16:27:55

Engine speed: 0.00 /min
Normed load value: 0.0 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 17 °C
Intake air temperature: 11 °C
Ambient air pressure: 800 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 11.850 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40

7213 - Cam Adjustment Actuator A; Cylinder 2
P11A5 00 [101] - Elec. Malf. or Open Circuit
Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 208275 km
Date: 2020.09.08
Time: 16:32:21

Engine speed: 243.50 /min
Normed load value: 31.4 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 16 °C
Intake air temperature: 11 °C
Ambient air pressure: 800 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 10.884 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40

4010 - Idle Control System
P0506 00 [101] - RPM Lower than Expected
Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 208275 km
Date: 2020.09.08
Time: 16:33:44

Engine speed: 659.50 /min
Normed load value: 21.6 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 41 °C
Intake air temperature: 8 °C
Ambient air pressure: 800 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.617 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40

4057 - Cylinder 2
P0302 00 [101] - Misfire Detected
Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 208275 km
Date: 2020.09.08
Time: 16:32:54

Engine speed: 3104.50 /min
Normed load value: 25.9 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 21 °C
Intake air temperature: 5 °C
Ambient air pressure: 800 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.452 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 80

4051 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 00 [101] - -
Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 208275 km
Date: 2020.09.08
Time: 16:32:29

Engine speed: 1215.50 /min
Normed load value: 29.8 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 16 °C
Intake air temperature: 6 °C
Ambient air pressure: 800 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 12.863 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 80

Readiness: 1110 0101

[cuda2000]

Why do you think rear main seal? Is it leaking oil real bad? Misfires can also be bad high pressure fuel pump or a leaky fuel injector. Or bad pcv valve. I would replace pcv valve, clear all the codes and see what happens.

2010 Audi A4 Quattro, Check out my upgrade and maintenance videos Cars and Coding here: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...4DHrYwEPid0aZb

[AnthraciteA4]

I think its the rear main because when I block the PCV port on the intake, the random misfire on all cylinders goes away (80% sure of it). I've had the car about 2 weeks now, so I can't say whether its been badly leaking oil. I just got a dipstick from USP on Saturday. I haven't fixed the oil level sensor yet. It could be wiring or the actual sensor. So to date, I haven't had a reliable way of checking the oil level until this weekend. Its just been sitting in my driveway and I've been slowly detailing the interior. I was going to do the oil change and oil level sensor install today, but it is snowing. It has 129K miles, so anything is possible. I anticipate I'm going to have to replace the HPFP and injectors before I consider the car safe to be my DD.

What I am trying to figure out is why the cam adjustment actuator only has a problem on cylinder 2.

[Smac770]

Why do you think it's the rear main and not the PCV diaphragm, which commonly tears? Do you see the same rough idle correction if you just put your finger over the vent hole on the backside of the PCV round cap?

Along the passenger side of the cylinder head cover are eight solenoids used to adjust the Audi Valvelift System (AVL or AVS) on the exhaust cam. There are two per cylinder, one to pull the cam lobe for that cylinder forward and one to pull the cam lobe for that cylinder rearward. The DTC is saying that one of the two on cyl 2 has an electrical circuit issue. Maybe it's unplugged, maybe there's a broken wire, maybe the solenoid is defective. There are DTCs for "A" and "B"; I'm not sure which is the forward solenoid and which is the rearward solenoid. Unplug one, if no change, that's A. If now you also have a DTC for B, then that was B.

If the cam is stuck in the high speed (>3100rpm) position because the solenoid to pull it back to the low speed position is not working, that would result in non-optimal operation and might be your misfire only on 2 cause.

To see if it is the solenoid, you could just swap the two on cyl 2 and see if the DTC moves to the "B" one. If it stays on A, you're looking at a plug/wiring issue. If it moves to B, the solenoid probably needs replacement.

[AnthraciteA4]

I would like to buy you a beer or something. Its probably still going to be the RMS because I got an awesome deal on the car and I have sh!t for luck, but you've made me hopeful that this can be a $200 fix rather than a $2000 fix.

[AnthraciteA4]

I have a clear top PCV, the kind with the newest revision ending in AK, mine ends in J. I just ordered one from FCP Euro along with an iAbed RMS just in case. It was super cold outside today, but I am going to install the intake manifold plug I 3d printed soon, so I can try and troubleshoot the cam actuator issue by itself. Whether its the PCV or the RMS, blocking that PCV port in the intake manifold should negate the extra un-metered air right? I should just have the cylinder 2 misfire from the cam being in the wrong position (most likely)?

The car runs great after 2500 rpm or so with the PCV port plugged, which lends itself to the idea that the actuator for low rpms for cylinder 2 isn't working. It would also help explain the rough idle. The wire tape for the actuators on cylinder 1 and 2 have been sliced open, probably by someone trying to inspect the wiring for a problem.

[Theiceman]

Could also be your spool valve has failed advancing the timing. It would idle like crap but run well after 2500 rpm.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app

[AnthraciteA4]

Could also be your spool valve has failed advancing the timing. It would idle like crap but run well after 2500 rpm.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app

Wouldn't I get a DTC for the spool valve then? VCDS is saying that one of the cam adjustment actuators is malfunctioning or the wiring is F'd. If you look at the spark plug pictures, you can probably spot which one was cylinder 2. If not, mouse over them because they're labeled.

[Smac770]

I always wondered which was A vs B, so went and pulled plugs and watched DTCs.

AVS adjusters identification s.jpg

It appears the As invoke the high lift profile and the Bs return the low lift profile.

Notice also the rpm in the freeze frame for your cyl 2 DTC. 3100rpm. The switchover point for the AVS.

So your cyl 2 exhaust cam lobe is likely stuck in the low lift, <3100rpm, position.

Given all the electrical wiring mess you've been finding, it could well be the oil level/temp sensor issue is a wiring problem as well.

[AnthraciteA4]

I found that the connector for the cam actuator is actually broken. I pushed the connector on really tight so that the wires would make contact, and the idle improved significantly. Going to get the part number off that connector and try to order a new one ASAP. It looks common enough that maybe I'll get lucky and my local dealership will have one in stock.

[Smac770]

All the connectors are readily available. Just a matter of determining the part number. For a B8.0, it's either the black one or the yellow one:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ch/4h0973702a/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...pin/07p973702/

The much harder part is determining the part numbers for the pins inside. Hopefully those are fine and you can just depin the old plug and slide them into the new plug housing.

And the cover that goes over it should you need that:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ap/8k0971921e/

[AnthraciteA4]

This is the part number I found on the connector 4F0973202, and a quick google search says its been superseded by this 07P973702

[AnthraciteA4]

Unfortunately, even with that code gone, I am still getting a misfire on cylinder 2 P0302, Cylinder Disabling P130A, Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0300, and of course the engine oil temp sensor since I haven't even tried to replace/repair it yet. I wish I could post a video of the engine at idle, but the vibration compensation on my phone camera makes it kind of a moot point.

[Smac770]

Yeah, but cylinder disabling is new. No idea what invokes that (I know it means excessive misfires, but why the misfires, who knows).
I'd swap the spark plug in 2 with the one in 1, and swap the coil in 2 with the one in 3. See if the misfires move to 1, move to 3, or stay on 2. That assumes the misfire issue is in the spark path.
Could be the injector is shot?
Or an issue with the valves or the cam lobes for that cylinder (compression test would isolate this concern?).

[AnthraciteA4]

I replaced the PCV, did an oil change, repaired the wiring for the oil level sensor, and replaced the sensor since I already had it. The idle is still rough but improved. I didn't get a chance to scan to see what codes are going to come back. I am wondering if the previous owner driving it in that condition for so long has damaged something.

I'll move the coil and spark plug to different cylinders like you suggested. I used Molygen oil, so I should be able to see if the RMS is bad in a day or so by checking for oil with a UV light. The underside of the car is filthy with leaves and oil and general road debris, so I am going to get that cleaned up tomorrow as well before I put the undercarriage shroud back on. The shrouds are remarkably oil free, I'm not sure what to make of that.

I took it around the block after the oil change and parts replacement, and at anything above an idle, the car feels great. This is definitely progress, hopefully there's nothing catastrophic lurking in the DTCs tomorrow.

[AnthraciteA4]

I swapped spark plugs between 1&2 and coil packs between 2&3. The misfire stays on cylinder 2. I viewed some live data of the misfires and they're only on cylinder 2, and they go away when throttle is applied. I held the RPMs at 2000 for about 10 seconds and the live data in VCDS didn't show any additional misfires. At idle though, cylinder 2 misfires 100-200+/1000 rpm. This leads me to think (HOPE) it is fuel based and having the cam actuator wiring being damaged for so long affected the injector.

The only other thing I can think of would be carbon build up, again from allowing cylinder 2's cam actuator to be messed up for so long. I know the previous owner put at least 1000 miles on the engine that way. I rescued this car from him, although I am wondering if I am going to regret it.

I guess I am going to do injectors next if no one else has a better idea. The car has 130K miles on it, so if they're original its about time to replace them anyway. Its my understanding that fuel injector cleaner doesn't really do anything more than a good premium gas does otherwise I'd run some more chemicals through the fuel system.

I am going to operate on the assumption that the RPM being lower than expected is because cylinder 2 is missing at least 1/5 times until I come across something that says otherwise.

Here's what VCDS is coming up with now:


Address 01: Engine
3 Faults Found:

4010 - Idle Control System
P0506 00 [100] - RPM Lower than Expected
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 208301 km
Date: 2020.09.16
Time: 19:24:43

Engine speed: 736.00 /min
Normed load value: 16.9 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 60 °C
Intake air temperature: 35 °C
Ambient air pressure: 800 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.405 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40

4057 - Cylinder 2
P0302 00 [101] - Misfire Detected
Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 208301 km
Date: 2020.09.16
Time: 19:24:14

Engine speed: 671.50 /min
Normed load value: 16.9 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 56 °C
Intake air temperature: 35 °C
Ambient air pressure: 800 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.169 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 80

4051 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 00 [101] - -
Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 208301 km
Date: 2020.09.16
Time: 19:24:14

Engine speed: 671.50 /min
Normed load value: 16.9 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 56 °C
Intake air temperature: 35 °C
Ambient air pressure: 800 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.169 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 80


Readiness: 1110 0101

[Smac770]

Yeah, that's a hell of a misfire rate. That it's only at idle vs 2k rpm (2k is still going to have the exhaust cam lobe and the load flaps in the same position as idle). You might still do a compression test to see if cyl 2 is in line with the others. Lobes on the cams getting spun out of place is not entirely unheard of.

[Theiceman]

compression test is next. and maybe a leakdown or borescope. or both

[AnthraciteA4]

Anyone willing to point me to a compression test how-to? I'm going to need baby steps and Youtube hasn't helped much. I really don't want to take the car to a professional just yet. Can VCDS tell me anything about the state of the injectors? I dumped in some Lucas octane booster, just because I had it and once the engine warmed up it still misfired at idle but the engine doesn't shake as much.

I'm going to do the compression test, but if it comes out that cylinder 2 is reasonably close to the others (+/- 10%??) my gut feeling is telling me to replace the injectors.

[Smac770]

Compression test at this point is just a sanity check. If it comes in the same, great, back to the regularly scheduled programming. But if it is off, then you have to account for that in the recovery plan.

I've been looking at this one:
https://www.innova.com/product/detai...er-5-piece-Kit
It has a nice solid extension, but I've read reviews that it doesn't have a check valve at the bottom of the extension.
https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3613-O.../dp/B001QJBDDM
Without the check valve right at the spark plug hole, the reading is worthless.

I've asked before here what competent tool are people using for compression checking with these deep well spark plug holes; got nothing useful back.

The actual process is easy. Plug coil, pull spark plug, screw in test unit, pull the plug on the injectors so they are not working (the set of plugs hanging under the backside of the intake manifold, the lower one with 8 largish wires), crank engine for a few seconds. The Audi specs are only for dry test. If the dry test seems odd, worth doing the wet test to see if that enlightens anything. But there's no Audi spec for wet test. 11-14 bar new, 7 bar wear limit, 3 bar max allowed between the highest and lowest cylinder readings.

And actually, it would be worth checking from dry, cranking, is the piston now wet (did the injector leak under the pressure build up in the high pressure rail).

So lot of aspects of just sanity check to know you're working from a solid base. I won't be shocked if it all turns out fine and it's simply the injector.

[AnthraciteA4]

I haven't done the compression check yet. I am waiting for the gauge to show up from Amazon. In the meantime I took it to the grocery store and now I have new codes. Cylinder 4 misfires just below 2000 rpm and it feels like I'm driving over a rumble strip except I don't feel it in the pedal as much as you do with the real thing. If I don't have to idle long enough for it to kick on EPC, any RPM above 2400 or so is buttery smooth and wonderful. Unfortunately I can't mash the gas pedal and go in a straight line all the time. If I'm stuck at a stop light too long EPC kicks on and the car is obviously in limp mode. I can hear the turbo spooling quite a bit more with EPC on for some reason.

Should I swap the cam actuators between cylinders? Maybe swap the actuators between 2 & 3 and see if it'll follow the actuator. I am beginning to suspect the camshaft though, which is beyond the scope of my abilities/location.


5 Faults Found:

4010 - Idle Control System
P0506 00 [096] - RPM Lower than Expected
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 208301 km
Date: 2020.09.16
Time: 19:24:43

Engine speed: 736.00 /min
Normed load value: 16.9 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 60 °C
Intake air temperature: 35 °C
Ambient air pressure: 800 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.405 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 36

4063 - Cylinder 4
P0304 00 [100] - Misfire Detected
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 208318 km
Date: 2020.09.18
Time: 09:47:05

Engine speed: 1810.50 /min
Normed load value: 11.4 %
Vehicle speed: 114 km/h
Coolant temperature: 96 °C
Intake air temperature: 26 °C
Ambient air pressure: 820 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 14.253 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 69

4057 - Cylinder 2
P0302 00 [237] - Misfire Detected
MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 208301 km
Date: 2020.09.16
Time: 19:24:14

Engine speed: 671.50 /min
Normed load value: 16.9 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 56 °C
Intake air temperature: 35 °C
Ambient air pressure: 800 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.169 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40

7960 - Cylinder Disabling
P130A 00 [044] - -
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 6
Mileage: 208342 km
Date: 2020.09.18
Time: 11:32:50

Engine speed: 850.50 /min
Normed load value: 20.4 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 96 °C
Intake air temperature: 42 °C
Ambient air pressure: 810 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 14.206 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40

4051 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 00 [237] - -
MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 208301 km
Date: 2020.09.16
Time: 19:24:14

Engine speed: 671.50 /min
Normed load value: 16.9 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 56 °C
Intake air temperature: 35 °C
Ambient air pressure: 800 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.169 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40

[Smac770]

I don't see anything that points to a concern with the actuators. The load flaps in the intake manifold swap at 3k and the lobes on the exhaust camshaft swap at 3.1k.
No idea why it would hate on cyl 2 then two days later decide it's cyl 4's time. And that all is good once you get the rpms up.
Maybe there's debris floating around in the high pressure rail? Trying to think of a location where something can impact just a single cyl but move around from cyl to cyl.

[AnthraciteA4]

Cylinder 2 didnt really stop misfiring at idle. I don't think they switched, I am pretty sure cylinder 4 just joined in the chorus at around 1800-2400 rpm and then smooths out at higher rpm. The mpg is garbage. I think it is injectors, so I am going to buy some just in case.

I read somewhere about using the transverse VW intake instead of the longitudinal Audi one because its had more revisions and its less than 1/2 the price. Ideally, I'd just buy the IE manifold and be done with that part, but I'd need a tune to go with it.

[Smac770]

Revision letters can mean many things. More does not mean better. If you can find an AN, it's plenty fine. Got 80k on mine. AT is the current rev, and is absurdly priced. I'll never pay that money for a plastic. If all you can find is AT, then you kick back to the transverse BH. AN pricing though is likely upwards as stock sells off, so it might just be too good to not just go BH outright.

But I'm not sure if there's value in replacing the intake manifold just for fun. I'd dismount it and seal the head side using a block of wood with holes drilled out matching the manifold so you can screw the manifold to it at the normal torque values. Put the throttle body back on and seal that opening with a cap with a valve you can pump up. Throw the EVAP line on there (so the one way valve seals off that opening) and then block off the PCV port. Pressurize it to 20psi and see if it holds. Move the load flap arm to see if that movement causes any leaks. If it holds, there's nothing to accomplish by replacing it.

[AnthraciteA4]

UPDATE:

I took the car to a mechanic I trust. He did a carbon cleaning and installed 4 new injectors with no real improvement. Next step was a compression check... Cylinder 2 made 27 psi at crank so there's definitely an issue. He scoped the pistons and looked at the intake valves during the carbon cleaning. Pistons look great, intake valves are intact and look much better after the carbon cleaning. After that, he swapped the cam actuators around to see if the issue would follow the actuator... Nope. He did a leak down test and cylinder 2 definitely leaks. Misfire still goes away above 2000 rpm when looking at live data. The car ran great above 2000 rpm on the highway drive to his shop. Right now the thought is that there is a stuck exhaust valve or something is wonky with the cam. He's going to pull the valve cover/cam girdle and see if something sticks out at him. My gut is still saying that it is cam related after having the cam actuator FUBAR'd for so long before I bought it. I'm pretty out of my depth though which is why I turned it over to him. I'm hoping its something obvious for my wallet's sake. I don't want to end up with a bill I can't afford or be forced to sell it as-is at a loss.

[Theiceman]

i think when you have a misfiring cylinder ripping the intake off to do a carbon cleaning and replacing an injector before even doing a compression test is very poor troubleshooting and an unnecessary expense for the customer. red to what it does fix. Carbon cleaning is the easy thing to go for and fixes so little compared to what it does fix.
compression test and scope should have been one of the first things done.. then repeated with oil in the cylinder, then a leak down to see if you have a chipped valve. my money is on burned exhaust valve.

[AnthraciteA4]

i think when you have a misfiring cylinder ripping the intake off to do a carbon cleaning and replacing an injector before even doing a compression test is very poor troubleshooting and an unnecessary expense for the customer. red to what it does fix. Carbon cleaning is the easy thing to go for and fixes so little compared to what it does fix.
compression test and scope should have been one of the first things done.. then repeated with oil in the cylinder, then a leak down to see if you have a chipped valve. my money is on burned exhaust valve.

I had already ordered the injectors because I felt like there was an improvement after running some BG 44K through it. I asked him to install the injectors because I thought it would have solved my problem. While he was replacing the injectors I asked him to do the carbon cleaning. I don't have access to the necessary equipment to do the carbon cleaning, which is why he installed the injectors instead of me. After that didn't solve the issue, I asked him to investigate further... hence the compression test and leak down.

He did the injectors and carbon cleaning first because I asked him to. I had sincerely believed the injectors were going to solve the issue so the additional diagnostics seemed unnecessary. That's my bad, not his.

[Theiceman]

Fair enough.... this has happened before....
The lesson for otbers here is generally your mechanic is trying to help and is not trying to rip you off, and knows more than you do about cars.
Would have been better to ask him to troublshoot misfire than tell him to change x parts.
Water under the bridge....
If he has a scope with a mirror he should be able to see if the valve is chipped

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app

[AnthraciteA4]

Regardless at 130K miles and an unknown service history I was happy with getting new injectors and a carbon cleaning done. I feel much better knowing the carbon cleaning is done. Its a 100+ mile drive from my house to his shop, so getting as much done as I can afford right now seems like the way to go. I honestly don't know what to hope the issue is, but I trust him completely that it will get fixed correctly without unnecessarily throwing parts at it.

Speaking of which, does anyone know if its possible to ask AoA to send me the dealer service records for my car? I am the legal registered owner, and even registered it in my name with AoA when I was looking for a navigation update. I think I have to get the navigation updated at a stealership.

[Theiceman]

i had no luck with this at all, but Canadian Privacy laws may be different,

but my dealer did print it out for me as part of the sales deal, but removed any pages with PO name. ( and probably the ones that talked about burning oil too )