First, the kit is excellent, and easy to use. It has everything you need for a successful install, and the ethanol sensor kit itself can easily be added during the install, or easily added any time at a later date.
Just about all the fittings that you’ll be working with are greater than 15mm hex nuts, but you can easily get a vice grip or similar onto all the fittings.
First and foremost, disconnect the negative terminal on your battery in the trunk. You don’t want any pumps going off and giving you a face full of gasoline while you’re working.
Next, identify the hard line coming into the engine bay on the far passenger side of the car . You’ll see some metal tubing with a black plastic fitting attached to it, with fuel line clamped onto the metal tubing. A little awkward, but you need to push the black plastic fitting up into the metal tubing, while simultaneously pulling the metal tube up and off of the hard line coming into the car:
Next, you’ll want to attach the plastic fitting from the kit over the lip on the hard fuel line:
Then go ahead and screw a fuel line fitting from the kit onto this plastic piece:
From here, you can now decide how you’d like to route everything. I found it easiest to remove the airbox and route everything along the passenger side of the engine.
I first attached a medium piece of hose to the above fitting, then attached the y adapter to that. I then routed the short hose with the bend up the rail where the original fuel line was and to the passenger hpfp. I found it easiest to unbolt and lift up both of the hpfp pumps to be able to secure the hoses. The bottom hose entering the passenger side hpfp needs to be removed so it can then be capped off with the plug and washer that come with the kit.
In the following pic, you can see the plug at the bottom of the passenger hpfp, the way that I routed the short cable to the passenger hpfp inlet, as well as where I located the Y adapter. I placed the flex fuel sensor (using the included quick connectors) onto the bottom half of the Y, and then routed the long fuel line from the flex fuel sensor out to the driver’s side hpfp inlet. The rationale for this is that the flex fuel sensor increases the resistance to flow of the fuel a bit, and placing this resistance after the Y avoids a pressure drop to the passenger side. Since the low pressure sensor is at the driver’s side hpfp, any decrease can be logged and assessed (so I’m told).
I also chose this route because it hugs the side of the engine just under the rail that routes a bunch of wiring, so it still allows my airbox to fit ok (Eventuri). Not an issue if you are using SRM long inlets with filters, but others have reported issues with being able to fit their airbox, so your mileage may vary. I routed the long fuel line along where some coolant pipes are at the front of the car by the charge air cooler housing, so it’s barely visible.
A few words on the flex fuel sensor- I don’t have pics of the install (I installed one a few years ago and reused that wiring since it's the same as the SRM kit) , but you can search posts by kpriv and others on it. It is a standard Continental ethanol sensor with a standard 3 pin configuration- power, ground, and signal. The white signal wire, when pinned to pin 15 in the OBD port, will allow for the DS1 to analyze ethanol content and adjust your tune for it on the fly. I’m told there’s also a way to get your ethanol content to display on your DIS lap timer screen, but I’ve not yet flashed my car and played with it.
In brief, to route the wiring, remove the rain guard for your car (pulls right up and out). On the driver’s side, you’ll need to get to the large grommet in the firewall that is underneath the ECU to pass the wires through it. To do this, remove the upper windshield wiper fluid tank (be prepared for a bunch of wiper fluid to dump on the ground- unavoidable). You’ll then need to unlock and remove the ECU. Slides out unnervingly easily. Then you need to unbolt and move out of the way the white plastic box that has some fuses in it. Once you’ve shifted that out of the way, you’ll be able to see the large rubber grommet in the firewall. You’ll want to take a sharp blade and make a cut in it large enough to lass the wires through. I’ve found that a good way to do this is that once you’ve reached the grommet, go inside the car and remove the footwell cover (3 different 8mm bolts). It takes a fair bit of anger/force to pull down and off. Unplug the light and pop out the OBD port, and set the footwell cover aside. If you then look from the floor to where the dead pedal is, you’ll find that grommet to the right of the dead pedal. You can make an incision in it from there, and then pass a wire snake through it. Then go up to the engine bay, tape your wires to the end of the snake. Go back to the dead pedal, and carefully pull your wires into the car. You can easily find a grounding spot near the driver’s side fuse box for the black wire, a switched fuse for the red power wire, and then pin the white wire to pin 15 of the OBD port. Put everything back together, and you’re all set.
I hope this is helpful. Please add pics, comments, or other suggestions as you see fit.
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