JBL BassPro Hub Spare Tire Sub

[A2andres]

I'm overall pleased with the sound of the B&O soundsystem in the SQ5 but would like to add a bit more low end. I have my eye on this setup from JBL;
https://www.jbl.com/car-subwoofers/JBL+BASSPRO+HUB.html


The B&O system does not have an individual Subwoofer Volume setting in the HU EQ but the JBL BassPro does have its own dedicated remote control with the needed adjustments to volume, cross-over etc incorporated. With that being said is there any advantage or need for an additional Line out Converter?

I was going to pick this up as well if needed OR if it would add any measurable improvement to the overall incorporation of this JBL sub into the otherwise stock B&O system;
https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-aud...-upgrade/lc2i/

I know there are a few threads on here that speak to improving the bass of this system but did not pick up on anything that spoke directly to the need/use of the LOC.

Thanks in advance.

[JLAllroad]

If your spare-tire well is anything like the Allroad, filled with the battery and the air pump, this will not fit. JBL does not list the SQ5 as being compatible.


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[A2andres]

If your spare-tire well is anything like the Allroad, filled with the battery and the air pump, this will not fit. JBL does not list the SQ5 as being compatible.


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Appreciate the feedback. However, the spare tire in my SQ5 has the B&O stock sub already in it. So I’d be pulling that out as replacing it with the JBL unit.

You do bring up a good point and I’ll take the extra time to remove the stock sub and measure the width and depth of the spare tire opening to compare to what JBL says is needed.

Thanks again.


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[sQ5inSD]

I'm overall pleased with the sound of the B&O soundsystem in the SQ5 but would like to add a bit more low end. I have my eye on this setup from JBL;
https://www.jbl.com/car-subwoofers/JBL+BASSPRO+HUB.html


The B&O system does not have an individual Subwoofer Volume setting in the HU EQ but the JBL BassPro does have its own dedicated remote control with the needed adjustments to volume, cross-over etc incorporated. With that being said is there any advantage or need for an additional Line out Converter?

I was going to pick this up as well if needed OR if it would add any measurable improvement to the overall incorporation of this JBL sub into the otherwise stock B&O system;
https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-aud...-upgrade/lc2i/

I know there are a few threads on here that speak to improving the bass of this system but did not pick up on anything that spoke directly to the need/use of the LOC.

Thanks in advance.

I have the same B&O spare tire factory sub - it's ok but when you are used to "real" aftermarket sub systems the OE performance is not really comparable. With that being said here is what my 30+ years of experience recommends:

1. make sure the JBL enclosure will fit in the OE spare tire well
2. make sure the you have the option of no-risk returns before investing
3. make sure you are familiar with the electrical integration of the new sub
4. LOC vs Speaker Level: this is potentially an issue for any OE system, the B&O in particular because not only is it essentially a "closed" optical signal system on the pre-amplifier side it is also a DSP filtered system on the amplified speaker side. Line out Converter (LOC) is not really needed since the JBL has the higher power Speaker Level input option but consider the idea that you will be taking that speaker level signal from which channel (there are 14 total)? Some OE systems use a LOT of active filtering for the individual speaker channels so even if you use the OE sub speaker harness for your JBL input it is not a certainty you will get a full sub frequency signal or one that does not have a unique equalized signal that gives the desired response.

It is possible to "make it work" and almost any aftermarket sub system will perform better than the $5 woofer in the OE sub just be informed and prepared before you make any mods.

Cheers,
Scott
2.

[A2andres]

I have the same B&O spare tire factory sub - it's ok but when you are used to "real" aftermarket sub systems the OE performance is not really comparable. With that being said here is what my 30+ years of experience recommends:

3. make sure you are familiar with the electrical integration of the new sub
4. LOC vs Speaker Level: this is potentially an issue for any OE system, the B&O in particular because not only is it essentially a "closed" optical signal system on the pre-amplifier side it is also a DSP filtered system on the amplified speaker side. Line out Converter (LOC) is not really needed since the JBL has the higher power Speaker Level input option but consider the idea that you will be taking that speaker level signal from which channel (there are 14 total)? Some OE systems use a LOT of active filtering for the individual speaker channels so even if you use the OE sub speaker harness for your JBL input it is not a certainty you will get a full sub frequency signal or one that does not have a unique equalized signal that gives the desired response.

It is possible to "make it work" and almost any aftermarket sub system will perform better than the $5 woofer in the OE sub just be informed and prepared before you make any mods.

Cheers,
Scott
2.

Given what you say in point 3 and 4 will an LOC, even though the JBL has high power level input, negate the need to worry about which speakers to tap?

This might be worth a trip to a custom installer.

Anyone have suggestions for Austin area?


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[CHEFS6]

I don't have much advice or insight on the subject.... However I'm subbed just to follow you through this guinea pig experiment lol if it works out well I'm doing the same thing. I also think the BO is lacking in the very low frequencies. Did you use the dimensions to see if it will fit nicely as a replacement?

[JLAllroad]

Does the Q5 group have a stereo thread like this?


The definitive stereo and subwoofer upgrade thread
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=759815


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[agrodpr]

I bought the JBL BassPro Hub and had to return it. Its too tall and wont fit (trunk bottom wouldn't lay flat). Of course unless you're willing to not carry the spare. I then bought the RockGhost from RockVille that is only 8 inches vs the 11 inch JBL. I never heard the JBL so can't compare. The RockVille is not the best sounding but does fill in the lowend to some degree. Also it's half the price and does fit with the spare. Only caveat is that the included bolt to keep it in place is too long. I haven't had a chance to play with it and find a solution yet. No LCi2 installed but at least with the RockGhost I don't think it's necessary given the paltry 200W RMS output.

Sorry for the Potato quality pics:
https://imgur.com/a/ja1AUtD

[A2andres]

I bought the JBL BassPro Hub and had to return it. Its too tall and wont fit (trunk bottom wouldn't lay flat). Of course unless you're willing to not carry the spare. I then bought the RockGhost from RockVille that is only 8 inches vs the 11 inch JBL. I never heard the JBL so can't compare. The RockVille is not the best sounding but does fill in the lowend to some degree. Also it's half the price and does fit with the spare. Only caveat is that the included bolt to keep it in place is too long. I haven't had a chance to play with it and find a solution yet. No LCi2 installed but at least with the RockGhost I don't think it's necessary given the paltry 200W RMS output.

Sorry for the Potato quality pics:
https://imgur.com/utM7zfa

Well, that's a bummer! Thank you for the information though... I know CV put out an in tire sub too... I'll have to check and see if that is any lower profile.

[A2andres]

I bought the JBL BassPro Hub and had to return it. Its too tall and wont fit (trunk bottom wouldn't lay flat). Of course unless you're willing to not carry the spare. I then bought the RockGhost from RockVille that is only 8 inches vs the 11 inch JBL. I never heard the JBL so can't compare. The RockVille is not the best sounding but does fill in the lowend to some degree. Also it's half the price and does fit with the spare. Only caveat is that the included bolt to keep it in place is too long. I haven't had a chance to play with it and find a solution yet. No LCi2 installed but at least with the RockGhost I don't think it's necessary given the paltry 200W RMS output.

Sorry for the Potato quality pics:
https://imgur.com/a/ja1AUtD

Also, as far as the trunk bottom not laying flat, was this more a "it looks off and I don't like it" or did it cause the trunk bottom to slide around etc?

[sQ5inSD]

Given what you say in point 3 and 4 will an LOC, even though the JBL has high power level input, negate the need to worry about which speakers to tap?

This might be worth a trip to a custom installer.

Anyone have suggestions for Austin area?


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To clarify my point regarding LOC vs Speaker Level - it does make a difference and potentially a major one for which OE speaker lead to tap. The obvious one is the factory sub but that's a 2-pin mono and most if not all LOC/Speaker Level inputs are STEREO (separate left/right each with a +and- pin) so you need to know what kind of signal the JBL sub (or any aftermarket sub) requires to reach full gain output and/or produce all of the desired audio content. This is why many installers end up tapping the rear doors or other aft located left/right speaker wires in the factory system to use both channels to feed the LOC/Speaker Level inputs. Again, specific to our B&O system this is where the DSP processing and other filtering may be less desirable as a signal source for driving any aftermarket sub.

To be sure about using any aftermarket sub with an OE factory system like the B&O one would ideally take an RTA (Real Time Analyzer) sweep of the stock system with and without all tone/DSP/surround/etc. controls enabled if possible to establish a baseline cabin response. From there you can later take other RTA measurements as changes are made to do the classic A/B compare to know exactly what the difference is. The other way is to do everything by ear and if it sounds good to you then that is good enough...

[thieu]

I too considered the JBL setup but ended up installing a powered subwoofer by JL. It’s compact and only took up a little bit of space in the cargo area. Although it has a high input option, i still used a JL LOC to give me more tuning options. The setup made a huge difference compared to the factory subwoofer.






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[A2andres]

I too considered the JBL setup but ended up installing a powered subwoofer by JL. It’s compact and only took up a little bit of space in the cargo area. Although it has a high input option, i still used a JL LOC to give me more tuning options. The setup made a huge difference compared to the factory subwoofer.






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Can you tell me where you spliced into for the signal to the LOC? Do you have stock everything else for your audio system? Still using the factory head unit etc?

The above posts mentions the importance of the fact that our B&O system filters signals to the various speakers and you need to make sure that you get tapped into a speaker that has all the “low end” the sub needs.


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[apatchin]

I have a pioneer flat 10 / amp mounted in the back part of my undertray (spare tire well)

All i did was use the old + /- from the factory sub connection -> line out convertor -> amp. Battery is already in the trunk so your already winning not having to run lines through your firewall from under the hood.

Can not complain one bit, its cheap, hits way harder than i would ever want it too, and is completely hidden. Bass controller tucked up by drivers seat. easiest / most profound audio upgrade i have ever done on any of my cars.

[thieu]

Can you tell me where you spliced into for the signal to the LOC? Do you have stock everything else for your audio system? Still using the factory head unit etc?

The above posts mentions the importance of the fact that our B&O system filters signals to the various speakers and you need to make sure that you get tapped into a speaker that has all the “low end” the sub needs.


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Everything else is stock. I used the signal from the stock subwoofer. I tried a couple different LOC and the JL LOC was the one that worked. And from the LOC, a pair of rca wire connects to the powered subwoofer. It did took some fine tuning with the gains and filter. I hid the LOC and ran all the wires through the left side cubby. I am no means a professional audio installer but was happy with the result.

[A2andres]

Everything else is stock. I used the signal from the stock subwoofer.

Appreciate the patience and feedback on all my questions so far. One of the posts in this thread states that the wiring going to the stock sub is a “2 pin mono connection” and that most LOCs and the JBL basspro have both a left and right + and - terminal. How did you handle this?


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[thieu]

Appreciate the patience and feedback on all my questions so far. One of the posts in this thread states that the wiring going to the stock sub is a “2 pin mono connection” and that most LOCs and the JBL basspro have both a left and right + and - terminal. How did you handle this?


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The way I had mine connected is the negative to the right negative and the positive to the left positive. It may be different depending on which LOC you use but it should come with instructions.


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[sQ5inSD]

The way I had mine connected is the negative to the right negative and the positive to the left positive. It may be different depending on which LOC you use but it should come with instructions.


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Just to clarify about the connection of the OE mono 2-pin sub to any LOC and in particular the JL model referred to by member thieu: the most recent version of the JL LoC22 installation procedure states to connect a mono (2-pin) factory sub to BOTH left/right speaker level inputs. This makes sense as it ensures each input channel of the LOC is getting a signal so the output channels will each have the same signal to pass on to the amplifier of choice.

That's not to say thieu got his installation wrong, just that JL documentation states a different connection. Unfortunately the document does not have a date or revision history, it was just what I quickly found online today.

Regardless of how one connects their favorite aftermarket sub/amplifier consider the following about integrating with the rest of the OE system:

1. How will the amplitude level of the aftermarket sub be controlled? Some but not all of us are lacking the factory B&O sub-level control (this is a side topic for another thread).

2. How will the aftermarket sub/amplifier "deal with" a potentially heavy DSP/filtered signal from the B&O system? Given the obvious limitations of the OE sub driver it is likely the signal is sees is probably a tight band-pass with a relatively high sub-sonic filter and maybe a unique notch or shelf filter (DSP at the OEM level is cheaper than upgrading even a $5 woofer) that could wreak havoc on even the most robust aftermarket sub driver/amplifier.

3. And what to do about the resulting response of the multiple OE bass/mid drivers? It is likely at least the door woofers have a low frequency response that was designed to compliment the OE sub so just from my own feeble critical listening attempts I'd say the OE door drivers are not filtered high enough to not distort at the higher volume levels once a more powerful and louder aftermarket sub is being driven to its full potential.

Let's keep this thread going and help out our fellow members.
Cheers,
Scott

[Allroad23]

Here is my set up on my 2014 Allroad. The spare location has the U looking stock sub (5 3/4'-6" max) wrapped around the battery. The portable air pump clipped on top can be removed for room to a flat 10-13.5" JL Sub....

But since I have leftover equipment I am trying to see if it sounds good.
I already had an 8" Skar sub in a ported box which believe it or not Hits hard....LOL, I also have an extra 10" JL W3 but adding it to a box may be too big and limits my cargo area.
I also had an older JBL MS 500.1 A Amp that is being used to drive the sub. It is more then enough since it is rated at 500 RMS
for the Line out, I had Audio Control LC6I which was used from my 2015 Toyota Tundra keeping the stock unit.

Result:
Although the B&O DSP does not have a separate sub adjustment, my LC6I has a bass knob which I ran up on the driver side and mounted by the hood release for accessibility without having to drill into the armrest which was my original idea.
Stock unit adjust to keep bass down to to mid way. Set the sound towards the driver from the menu. Treble is set a little past mid point

The Bass is nice and tight and my Bass knob allows to crank it on certain songs. Obviously, adjustments are limited to separate the mid bass, etc...But WAY better then stock Bass.

Next move maybe adding an Audison Bit Ten DSP and upgrading the dash 3 speakers and separates mid/highs to the front doors.

[Ruger]

I began with the odd 6in 2ohm mod but then I moved onto the CV sub for the wife's SQ5. You might notice a slightest of rise in the storage cover but we have a Weathertech cover back there so we don't notice it.

[A2andres]

I began with the odd 6in 2ohm mod but then I moved onto the CV sub for the wife's SQ5. You might notice a slightest of rise in the storage cover but we have a Weathertech cover back there so we don't notice it.

Thanks for the input! Would you be willing to take a couple of pictures with the trunk storage cover installed over the CV speaker? If possible without the Weathertech.

I had a user from Audiworld share a few pictures of what the trunk cover looks like when installed over the JBL and would like to compare;

Audi Trunk 2.jpg
Audi Trunk 1.jpg

Thanks in advance.


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[pdnation]

Looks to me from those pictures that the sub is bearing the weight of anything that is placed on the cover. That doesn’t look good.


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[flyfishing]

I looked at the q5 sub and it looks like it is held in with a plastic cover and some screws.

Is there a sub that I can just drop in that makes the sound better? I have JL audio in my 2 other audis and they pretty much dropped in.

Is there a shallow sub that can drop in?

[aonavy]

follwing

[A2andres]

Looks to me from those pictures that the sub is bearing the weight of anything that is placed on the cover. That doesn’t look good.


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Yes, I agree with you sentiment on the sub bearing the weight of any cargo but I don't think there is anyway to get it to sit lower in the spare tire well. Hopefully, we'll be able to get some shots of how the trunk cover looks when placed over the CV version of this sub.

[A2andres]

Ruger shared these photos of the trunk mat installed over the CV spare tire sub. Looks like it sits much more flush.

He also mentioned that it’s not the sub but rather the bolt/screw that interfere with the mat not being completely flush.

IMG_9047.jpg
IMG_9046.jpg


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