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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 29 2011
    AZ Member #
    77591
    Location
    CT

    How to remove bolt under the cat/turbo

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    Any suggestions on how to remove the bottom bolt that is between the cat and the turbo?

    Even with the air box removed and a variety of swivels, etc I cannot see how to remove that bolt. Below are pictures of the cat and turbo's top two bolts (taken from where the airbox used to be) and a shot of the bottom bolt under the cat.

    Is there a specialty 17mm wrench required or any suggestions on how to reach this?

    Thanks!

    IMG_20200831_171219.jpg

    IMG_20200831_171046.jpg

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings imnuts's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 12 2009
    AZ Member #
    46297
    My Garage
    '21 F-150 Powerboost Lariat & '14 Acura RDX
    Location
    Dirty Jerz

    Things that come to mind would be an ignition wrench, crows foot wrench, and/or universal adapters.

  3. #3
    Junior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 19 2018
    AZ Member #
    414296
    Location
    wassenaar

    I have done it through the underside of the car with a very long extention and swifel or through the top with a wrench shortened with a grinder.

    Also you can losen the rest like exhaust header and turbo support bracket, hose etc. Since the exhaust is flexibel/movable you can have someone lifting the whole stuff up to create more working space beneath.

    Sent from my Mi 10 using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 13 2015
    AZ Member #
    348679
    Location
    LA

    How to remove bolt under the cat/turbo

    17mm S wrench from Harbor Freight.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings Dr.B6Banter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 26 2017
    AZ Member #
    407514
    My Garage
    B6 A4 1.8T, B8.5 SQ5
    Location
    NB, Canada

    I actually had to tighten that bolt this morning so its somewhat fresh in my mind. Mind you I have a test pipe which doesn't bulge out as much as the cat so your best bet would be to use a swivel + long extension or a crows foot. Both would need a long enough extension to put your wrench/ breaker bar in the void between the downpipe and the axle.
    B6 A4 1.8T Nottro 02X 6spd Conversion | GTRS | IE Forged Rods | Suspension/ Subframe Poly Bushings | 18z BBK Front & Back
    B8.5 SQ5 3.0t | JHM 207mm Crank Pulley | IE Dual Pulley Tune & ZF8 TCU Tune | CTS Test Pipes, Downpipes & HX | AWE Touring Exhaust

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 13 2009
    AZ Member #
    39820
    My Garage
    MK3 VR6
    Location
    Houston, TX

    I believe I used the open end of a stubby last time I did it if I remember correctly.
    B6 USP Avant

    USP CLUB MEMBER #242


    AMB + GSX28RS

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings Gekko's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 18 2017
    AZ Member #
    408585
    My Garage
    2003 A4 1.8TQM, 2006 SV650
    Location
    NC

    Long extension from the bottom worked for me too. Kinda difficult but definitely doable.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings a1dan_87's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 07 2018
    AZ Member #
    415178
    Location
    Utah

    I remember having to go up from under the car, behind and below the cat to get to it. It was quite the pain

    Sent from my PH-1 using Audizine mobile app

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings Gunnarrrrr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 25 2015
    AZ Member #
    322635
    My Garage
    cars, wheels, cars with wheels
    Location
    Placer County

    I always find it easier to remove the manifold, and just hook the turbo onto an engine hoist to pull it up a couple inches.

    I'd recommend replacing those 3 nuts with some smaller 14mm nuts instead of the stock 16mm. I got a pack of them on amazon for $8. they're still M10x1.5, just thinner, easier to get a socket in there next time.

    Quote Originally Posted by a1dan_87 View Post
    I remember having to go up from under the car, behind and below the cat to get to it. It was quite the pain

    Sent from my PH-1 using Audizine mobile app
    This is pretty much what you're going to have to do if you want to leave the turbo in place though.
    B9 SQ5 Mythos X Magma - 034 stg2
    2005 B6 GT2871
    2005 B6 S4 4.2L 6MT

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings Dr.B6Banter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 26 2017
    AZ Member #
    407514
    My Garage
    B6 A4 1.8T, B8.5 SQ5
    Location
    NB, Canada

    Quote Originally Posted by Gunnarrrrr View Post
    I always find it easier to remove the manifold, and just hook the turbo onto an engine hoist to pull it up a couple inches.

    I'd recommend replacing those 3 nuts with some smaller 14mm nuts instead of the stock 16mm. I got a pack of them on amazon for $8. they're still M10x1.5, just thinner, easier to get a socket in there next time.



    This is pretty much what you're going to have to do if you want to leave the turbo in place though.
    I feel like removing the whole manifold just to get that that one nut is getting a bit too far into the weeds lol. I do agree with the smaller nuts though, They're even more of a help with high flow cast manifolds where some of the 12mm nuts are almost impossible to get a socket on where the 10mm ones are a breeze.

    There is a good inch of room between the bottom stud and the exhaust heat shield so I feel like the simplest way would be to use a crows foot wrench and a wobble extension (~12") to get your wrench/ breaker bar under the cat, and just reach down through the engine bay to twist it off. It may be a bit tough to turn if it's never been off before but I'm pretty sure that how I did it and mine wasn't hard to get off. I definitely didn't have to go under the car, and I understand not everyone's car is the same but mine being in the rust belt should be on the worse end of stuck and perished bolts/nuts.

    Capture.jpgae235.jpg
    B6 A4 1.8T Nottro 02X 6spd Conversion | GTRS | IE Forged Rods | Suspension/ Subframe Poly Bushings | 18z BBK Front & Back
    B8.5 SQ5 3.0t | JHM 207mm Crank Pulley | IE Dual Pulley Tune & ZF8 TCU Tune | CTS Test Pipes, Downpipes & HX | AWE Touring Exhaust

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 29 2011
    AZ Member #
    77591
    Location
    CT

    Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

    I tried several approaches, including indexable ratchets where the heads flex sideways, and others. The issue is a deeper socket is needed to span the extra bolt length, but there is practically no room before the cat starts to bulge out so I couldn't get any combination of a socket plus flexible extensions on it.

    In the end the S wrench from Harbor Freight linked above was the only thing that worked, and it worked very well. It took maybe five minutes to get the two harder to reach bolts out once I got the wrench. By the time I finally bought the wrenches I had been hitting the bolts with penetrating oil for a week so they broke free with little effort. Thanks again!

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings Dr.B6Banter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 26 2017
    AZ Member #
    407514
    My Garage
    B6 A4 1.8T, B8.5 SQ5
    Location
    NB, Canada

    Glad you got it figured out!

    These cars always require a little bit of imagination when it comes to finding the right tool for the job...
    B6 A4 1.8T Nottro 02X 6spd Conversion | GTRS | IE Forged Rods | Suspension/ Subframe Poly Bushings | 18z BBK Front & Back
    B8.5 SQ5 3.0t | JHM 207mm Crank Pulley | IE Dual Pulley Tune & ZF8 TCU Tune | CTS Test Pipes, Downpipes & HX | AWE Touring Exhaust

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