should i upgrade from a6 2.0t to 3.0t?

[jojo1719]

Hi Guys,

I have bought CPO 2017 A6 2.0t Q last February. I really like it but I feel like it needs more power. I also have 2016 340I and after driving 340i, A6 feel little underpowered.
I looked around and found 2016 A6 3.0T Q with 48K miles for $24K. If change, I would most likely loose about 5K, if I buy extend warranty also. on 2017 A6 I had CPO warranty extended to 2024.*
Would this be worth it? I test drove 3.0T and I couldn't really tell. Maybe I had bad car.
I can't tune my car right now due to warranty.... Maybe JB1 might be ok... but apr probably not.
Please give me any advice that you might have. thank you!

[silver3.8]

I have a 2017 a6 2.0 as well. There are more parts and more end power to be gained with the 3.0. As far as a CPO, I purchased the JB$ group 6 (for our c7.5) and itwont void the warranty. Just make sure to take it off before going into the stealership. I purchased my a6 this uear and had no clue that the 3.0 existed. I only knew of the A6 and S6 (didnn't do my research before hand.) I did install the APR stage 1 tune and it def has more of a pep and ran against a guy with a stock 3.0 and I did pull almost 3 car lengths on it with just the JB4 (map 2). If you were to get the APR tune, it will void your warranty. I would stick to a piggyback, like the JB4.

All in all, you have to look to see what your end game with the car is. I, as well as others ith the JB$ are happy and it def wakens the car up. Feel free to message me with any questions. There is also a 2.0 thread in this section. I would browse it.

Hope this helps.

[got_boost]

It wasn't an A6, but I had a B8 A4 with a 2.0t. after a tune,full exh,K04,and a forge fmic...it was about the same as my now current A6 when it was stock so that money was wasted and should have went the 3.0 from the get go but I was in a pinch and needed a car fairly quick.

Now after adding some go fast parts to the 3.0, dual pulley,eng and TCU tune,and a heat exchanger, the 2.0 wouldnt come close. I had the car Dyno'd last year and it was 401/412 at the wheels in the FL heat so I'm happy with the car. I am still using the OEM exh and I just got an 80mm TB so there may still be a little more in the pipeline.

If you want reliability and have decent power,and not minding taking a chance with a warranty, I'd go with the 3.0 and take the 5k hit now. It sounds like you want to keep the warranty though. it would be your choice but comparing both cars if stock, the 3.0 would have more power and be a bit quicker since you're not waiting for boost to build.

[BryN86]

This is a situation of “The Beauty is in the eye of the beholder” if it’s power your after then a 3.0 definitely will skip past the 2.0, but it all depends on your situation and what you’re really after. I also have a 2.0 A6 ‘17 and quite enjoy it. It performs to my liking and is fun enough for my daily drive. Able to play with 3&5 series and tail some American v8’s here on the highways in Texas. I guess my point is, it’s how you drive it. I have 2.5” cat back exhaust and it sounds more better, looking to get JB4 piggyback tune for it next.


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[bahula03]

Stock for stock, that seems like a lot of cash for a relatively minor upgrade, assuming the cars are otherwise similarly equipped. Maybe another thing to keep in mind is that a 3.0T A6 is going to be something like 600lbs heavier than the 340i. Having had a few 2.0T loaners over the years, and maybe the best way for me to describe the difference in power is that the 3.0T doesn't struggle with the mass of the car, where the 2.0T frequently does. I don't think there's a world of difference between the two, but there is a noticeable difference.

The best indicator is probably the test drive you went on- if you can't feel the difference, what's the point? Maybe find a different 3.0T for a test drive just to confirm?

[wootwoot]

The 2.0T is underpowered for a car with this curb weight. Get the 3.0T and never look back.

[dbsterben]

Hi Guys,

I have bought CPO 2017 A6 2.0t Q last February. I really like it but I feel like it needs more power. I also have 2016 340I and after driving 340i, A6 feel little underpowered.
I looked around and found 2016 A6 3.0T Q with 48K miles for $24K. If change, I would most likely loose about 5K, if I buy extend warranty also. on 2017 A6 I had CPO warranty extended to 2024.*
Would this be worth it? I test drove 3.0T and I couldn't really tell. Maybe I had bad car.
I can't tune my car right now due to warranty.... Maybe JB1 might be ok... but apr probably not.
Please give me any advice that you might have. thank you!

3.0t has more parts and upgrades available. I've had my 2016 for a while and I love it. Before I had a 2012 S6 and the power was great but I'd use so much gas, y current A6 is near 430hp and I find it just as enjoyable.

2016 3.0T C7.5 S-Line Prestige Ibis White APR Stage 1 tune

[Brooklyn]

Get a CPO S6. I went from a B8 S4 to an A6 3.0t and found it so lacking in power that I tracked down a used S6 as quickly as I could. You should be able to find some screaming deals on C7.5 S6s these days. Going from the 2.0t to a 3.0t doesn't make a lot of sense to me unless you plan on modding it immediately.


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[ItsLarryG]

I owned an A6 2.0 and basically drove it from the dealer to the shop to have APR stage 1 done. I didn’t really remember stock, but with the tune it was plenty livable without lacking power. A tune will get around 280hp and costs $600 instead of losing $5k to get into a new car with possible new problems.

I eventually wound up with a S7 and will advocate for that like others here have.

[Gizmo32]

i miss my 17 340i had all the m performance kits after it was written off my wife wanted her choice got a 16 a6 prestige 3.0t. The power is good but its no where near a 340i...never drove the 2.0T but it should be quicker.


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[porksoda]

i miss my 17 340i had all the m performance kits after it was written off my wife wanted her choice got a 16 a6 prestige 3.0t. The power is good but its no where near a 340i...never drove the 2.0T but it should be quicker.


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Total opposite experience at my end, but again C7 shines after a stage 1.

Plus the 340i is a different class compared to c7.

[ItsLarryG]

How does the inline 6TT comped to the 3.0 supercharged Audi? Just drove my buddies Z4 TT and it felt like it could use a little more oomph.

[paul-g]

I owned an A6 2.0 and basically drove it from the dealer to the shop to have APR stage 1 done. I didn’t really remember stock, but with the tune it was plenty livable without lacking power. A tune will get around 280hp and costs $600 instead of losing $5k to get into a new car with possible new problems.

I eventually wound up with a S7 and will advocate for that like others here have.

I almost bought a 2.0 that was way more optioned out than my 3.0, I agree tune it and drive it for another year or two and then take your time and find the car you really want. I bought the 3.0l and I get bored easily...lol

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

I almost bought a 2.0 that was way more optioned out than my 3.0, I agree tune it and drive it for another year or two and then take your time and find the car you really want. I bought the 3.0l and I get bored easily...lol

I got a 3.0 rather than S6 knowing I could tune and have cash left over. I planned to wait until warranty expired before running the tune, but I ended up having the tune done after my first oil change at 5k miles. Enjoying the power, but could always enjoy MORE. It’s addicting.

Bottom line, buy an RS or Porsche... that should keep you satisfied until something faster comes along!! 🤪

[Ro7]

Personally, if I was in your situation, I would opt for a tune like others have stated. For less than $1k, you can get the power you're looking for, plus a car that will weight less. $5k is a lot and not worth it upgrading to the stock 3.0 engine, when Audi is know is for its tune-ability!

[A665]

I owned an A6 2.0 and basically drove it from the dealer to the shop to have APR stage 1 done. I didn’t really remember stock, but with the tune it was plenty livable without lacking power. A tune will get around 280hp and costs $600 instead of losing $5k to get into a new car with possible new problems.

/\ /\ /\ Here's the most cost-effective solution to the OP's dilemma, relative to power anyway.