2015 B8.5 Allroad - $900+ Front Brake Job by Audi Service, Sound Reasonable??

[frankjcrow]

I just bought a fairly low mileage B8.5 Allroad. I got it inspected and did the 35K factory service at Audi Rockville. They said the brakes are low and recommended fixing that "soon". I wanted to just get everything taken care of, so I told them to go ahead. Because the pads were low the said that Audi always replaces the rotors because "the rotors on these German cars are really soft" and so that's what they always do.

OK fine. $900+ per axle every time the brakes get low. Does that sound reasonable? I mean maybe it is and I just don't know and need to get used to the idea. The thing is that I'm seeing performance rotors and pads all over the place for way less than that. But I want Audi to service my car year over year. If I go get some other brakes, then Audi won't service them, right?

I would appreciate any thoughts or advice on this situation.

Thanks,
Frank

[ps2cho]

Sounds a little high, but the dealers going to hose you on this type of stuff regardless. There’s nothing special about the (front) brakes are all and any independent can do it fine.

[Theiceman]

Personally i find Audi rotors indestructible.. not soft at all... just keep slapping pads on and they go forever....
i once forgot that and put shit Zimmerman rotors on. were toast in 2 years.

personally i think you got sold a bunch of work.... ask for all parts back so you can inspect for yourself how low they were.
I find a lot of places financially hurting these days. So they are up selling where ever they can ...

i would have asked " what % worn are the brakes.. anything below 80% i would leave alone.
35K needs new brakes ??? i would think not but you never know, all road may be a heavier car than i am used to and driving style also affects this..

[chavez885]

My brakes were toast at 35K on my A4 when I bought it in 2012 (lease return), so I am not surprised, depends on how the person drove the car.

So 900$ PER AXLE? 1800$ for all brakes? That seems high. Are there no reputable audi/vw performance shops around? At the least you should get a price from another shop, that way you have a fair comparison.

Yes always replace the rotors with new pads, if you did them yourself you could "turn" the rotors but some people don't even like doing that.

For you own knowledge, prices at a good vendor for parts are

230$ front rotors OEM
220$ rear rotors OEM
270$ all brakes pads f/r OEM

Add probably 20% dealer markup/MSRP so >900$ parts then factor in labor at 150 per hour or more.

Look/signup for coupons as they usually do discounts for service in the mail for the dealer if you really want to use a dealer.

[A4x]

$900 per axle is outrageous.

Look at it this way: you can get pads for about $60 (Akebono euro ceramic), rotors for about $130 (Bosch quiet cast). It's a simple job, should take 1 to 1.5 hours for an experience mechanic to do one axle. Let's say $150 per hour for labor. Total: $340 per axle. These parts I mentioned are of good quality.

OEM parts have extreme markups on them.

Now this estimation might be a little low. Any good independent shop should do this job for $450 or under per axle, just make sure they are not using Duralast rotors.

Getting a brake job at a dealership is overkill. It takes no special tools or experience to do this job. Maybe if I had an R8 I would.

[Smac770]

2 hours at $150 an hour, two rotors 8R0615301F at $150 each, pads set 8K0698151H at $150, so there's $750. Not sure what the extra $150 is.

That said, the one time I had the dealership do my brakes, they only charged $200 an axle for labor. And I would bring my own parts, you can get the rotors and pads, Audi OE, for $340 online (genuineaudiparts.com, though will shipping eat most of that savings?). ~600 sounds better than ~900, assuming you prefer not to do the labor yourself. $200 in labor is golden vs the time wasted if you're in the $50-$100/hr job market.

And that assumes the caliper slides are in good shape and they don't need a 8K0698470B for one or both sides, at $60 each ($40 online).
And it's a dealership, so they are supposed to replace the four N91147601 bolts, another $30. But they won't.

[frankjcrow]

2 hours at $150 an hour, two rotors 8R0615301F at $150 each, pads set 8K0698151H at $150, so there's $750. Not sure what the extra $150 is.

That said, the one time I had the dealership do my brakes, they only charged $200 an axle for labor. And I would bring my own parts, you can get the rotors and pads, Audi OE, for $340 online (genuineaudiparts.com, though will shipping eat most of that savings?). ~600 sounds better than ~900, assuming you prefer not to do the labor yourself. $200 in labor is golden vs the time wasted if you're in the $50-$100/hr job market.

And that assumes the caliper slides are in good shape and they don't need a 8K0698470B for one or both sides, at $60 each ($40 online).
And it's a dealership, so they are supposed to replace the four N91147601 bolts, another $30. But they won't.

I dug up the specific numbers from the invoice to have a more accurate conversation:

Labor: $406.88
Parts:
- 1 x 8K0-698-151-H BRK LINING $186.00
- 2 x 8R0-615-301-F BRAKE DISC $190.00

Total: $972.88

So that sounds like a pair of front rotors for $380, a single (??) pad for $186.00 and just over two hours labor. Strange that there was only one pad replaced. I did ask if there was unusual/uneven wear because it seemed odd that only the front was low and that it needed rotors so soon. They told me it was normal and they always do the rotors. I think that I should expect another $186 (i.e., both pads) in the future which would bring the total to $1,158.00! I think that I need to consider having somebody else do the breaks prior to my yearly service going forward. That sounds kind of nuts. And I could have performance breaks for less than that, all over the place.

[Smac770]

The pad kit part number includes all four pads, since you should only change pads across the axle as a group, not just one side.
The dealerships around here only try and mark up parts 10%. Your dealership is going all out with that +20%. I'm assuming those numbers include taxes.

Take Jim Ellis here in ATL.
If I go to the dealership and say put brakes on my B8.5 allroad, I'm going to get an invoice line item for a 8R0615301F for probably $165 plus $10 sales tax (even though Audi MSRP is $150).
But if I order it from Jim Ellis, https://www.audiatlantaparts.com/p/D...R0615301F.html, then it's only $120, plus sales tax, plus $35 shipping.
Why can't I just get the $120 price at their own dealership? "We don't do business that way." Whatever.

Your dealership is charging $566 for something you can buy for $350 online:
https://www.genuineaudiparts.com/oem...tor-8r0615301f
https://www.genuineaudiparts.com/oem...ads-8k0698151h
(not sure how they handle shipping costs)

And that labor rate, for one axle, is double what the dealership here charged (ok, that was 5 years ago, but still). So even if you could bring the parts, they are charging way too much for the task. Though better than paying a cheap person who doesn't even know torque specs exist.

I've never had the Audi OE rotors not at their wear limit when the Audi OE pads reached their wear limit. So I always expect pads and rotors to be changed when the time comes. Trying Zimmerman + Akebono this time on the fronts to see how they go.

[frankjcrow]

Ah! It's a pad set! I didn't realize that LOL! Yeah, that particular dealership (Audi Rockville, MD) is my favorite in the area and they apparently do charge a premium. It probably has more to do with being in a high-rent location than anything else but I don't know for sure. It sounds like, if I could get a mechanic that I trust, I could get the same Audi parts for a few hundred less. That wouldn't be bad. The trick is that, I live in the sticks out in Southern MD and the mechanics (more like parts changers) out here are different degrees of awful. I haven't found one yet that I actually do trust with my two Audi daily drivers. I have let them work on my older (2002 C5 A6) wagon and I have had mixed results. I do have some leads on nearby mechanics that some friends trust on their Mercedes and are happy. So I might try that. Overall, it is good for me to compare notes and get feedback, so I can make informed decisions. Thanks!

[B6_Dolphin]

$900 per axle is outrageous.

Look at it this way: you can get pads for about $60 (Akebono euro ceramic), .

I also have a 2015 AR, and before I went Stoptech BBK Trophy in the front, I replaced the front (& rear) pads with the Akebono Euro pads ($82 on Amazon), too, but not because the OEM pads were worn-out, but because I was tired of cleaning the dust off my wheels every week when washing the car.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004US3BCW...roduct_details

As for brake pad life, (only) the front left brake pad has a wear sensor built-in. When the pads are near the end of their life, the sensor will activate and put up a message in your DIC.

[Kylet21]

If you have even the smallest amount of mechanical ability, this job is actually extremely easy. You just need the right tools (really just basic hand tools, a jack and jack stands) to complete this job.

If you do this job yourself, you will wonder why you ever paid someone for it. Whatcha couple DIY videos and you will be good to go. Grab a couple cold ones, and enjoy the wrenching experience.


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[chavez885]

Ah! It's a pad set! I didn't realize that LOL! Yeah, that particular dealership (Audi Rockville, MD) is my favorite in the area and they apparently do charge a premium. It probably has more to do with being in a high-rent location than anything else but I don't know for sure. It sounds like, if I could get a mechanic that I trust, I could get the same Audi parts for a few hundred less. That wouldn't be bad. The trick is that, I live in the sticks out in Southern MD and the mechanics (more like parts changers) out here are different degrees of awful. I haven't found one yet that I actually do trust with my two Audi daily drivers. I have let them work on my older (2002 C5 A6) wagon and I have had mixed results. I do have some leads on nearby mechanics that some friends trust on their Mercedes and are happy. So I might try that. Overall, it is good for me to compare notes and get feedback, so I can make informed decisions. Thanks!

Yeah if you don't trust local mechanics stick to the stealership, you can at least hold them accountable vs a random shop, a lot harder/low reputation.

[Theiceman]

Dealership charges that for a " brake job"
And doesn't even flush the fluid. Makes you wonder doesn't it.

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[rcprato]

frankjcrow owning an Audi is a learning experience, sounds like you found a really nice Allroad but if you want to drive this Audi for many years you need to learn how to negotiate with the dealer service writer, find a quality German Indy repair shop or start watching YouTube videos and do the work yourself. These cars can get expensive even just for routine maintenance.

Lots of great online resources to buy Audi Genuine OEM parts from or the same OEM parts sold by Audi in the OEM manufacturer box.

You should consider 5K oil change intervals, the 10k is way to long even with the high quality synthetic Audi recommends.

[frankjcrow]

If you have even the smallest amount of mechanical ability, this job is actually extremely easy. You just need the right tools (really just basic hand tools, a jack and jack stands) to complete this job.

If you do this job yourself, you will wonder why you ever paid someone for it. Whatcha couple DIY videos and you will be good to go. Grab a couple cold ones, and enjoy the wrenching experience.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

Honestly, I can see this happening!

[frankjcrow]

I also have a 2015 AR, and before I went Stoptech BBK Trophy in the front, I replaced the front (& rear) pads with the Akebono Euro pads ($82 on Amazon), too, but not because the OEM pads were worn-out, but because I was tired of cleaning the dust off my wheels every week when washing the car.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004US3BCW...roduct_details

As for brake pad life, (only) the front left brake pad has a wear sensor built-in. When the pads are near the end of their life, the sensor will activate and put up a message in your DIC.

I've had the car for like 2 weeks and that dust has already caught my eye!! Do those Akebono Euro pads have comparable life and performance? Or do you have to change them more often or anything like that?

[Theiceman]

Akebono are going on my car next when i need to do them.. although i must say my car gets zero dust and the last brake job was done by Audi .. hmmmmm

[NitroViper]

Lol thats stupid, I could do the fronts and rears for under $150 by myself....

[A4x]

If you have even the smallest amount of mechanical ability, this job is actually extremely easy. You just need the right tools (really just basic hand tools, a jack and jack stands) to complete this job.

If you do this job yourself, you will wonder why you ever paid someone for it. Whatcha couple DIY videos and you will be good to go. Grab a couple cold ones, and enjoy the wrenching experience.

This. Save some cash and have fun learning a new skill. It really is an easy job. In the long run, you can save a lot of money doing this a few times on different cars.

I've had the car for like 2 weeks and that dust has already caught my eye!! Do those Akebono Euro pads have comparable life and performance? Or do you have to change them more often or anything like that?

I would say yes, comparable life and performance. I have had the Akebono euro ceramic on the front for 22000 miles now and they still look to have a ton of life left. I like the performance better than stock pads. They lack initial bite but are strong enough to lock up my fairly new Continental sport tires. THe pedal has a more linear feel...better than the stock pads which grab too much at first tiny pedal application, IMO.

Akebono are going on my car next when i need to do them.. although i must say my car gets zero dust and the last brake job was done by Audi .. hmmmmm

+1 Akebono euro ceramic gets my vote. Love the low dust, and the performance is great for a daily driver.

[Nano909]

I remember when I first went to my local indy German mechanic shop for a quote on changing the brakes. I got quoted $1000. I laughed all the way home and bought the stuff and did the change myself with only a fraction of the cost. Paying for something so simple is unacceptable.

[rcprato]

I would say yes, comparable life and performance. I have had the Akebono euro ceramic on the front for 22000 miles now and they still look to have a ton of life left. I like the performance better than stock pads. They lack initial bite but are strong enough to lock up my fairly new Continental sport tires. THe pedal has a more linear feel...better than the stock pads which grab too much at first tiny pedal application, IMO.

Why would you want a pad that lacks initial bite ? I know this subject has been debated to death and was in my head at 6:30 this morning when I was washing the 2 weeks of brake dust off my wheels, fortunately they are gunmetal so from a distance it is not as bad. Normally I wash my car weekly and even then there is a good amount of BD on the rims but with the semi-metalic pads I have the initial bite is strong and I get very linear braking in all conditions.

I had Hawk HPS on a previous car and that feeling of putting foot on brake pedal with little reaction can make you piss your pants in a panic stop, maybe the Akebono are better but still not an abrasive pad compound like the SM pads.

The extra time cleaning the rims this morning was a PIA

[PedroA4]

Audi of downtown LA quoted me $956 for front and rear pads only.
I ended up going to a quality indy shop and they charged $600 for the same job.
Rotors were turned, but not replaced.

[A4x]

Why would you want a pad that lacks initial bite ? I know this subject has been debated to death and was in my head at 6:30 this morning when I was washing the 2 weeks of brake dust off my wheels, fortunately they are gunmetal so from a distance it is not as bad. Normally I wash my car weekly and even then there is a good amount of BD on the rims but with the semi-metalic pads I have the initial bite is strong and I get very linear braking in all conditions.

I had Hawk HPS on a previous car and that feeling of putting foot on brake pedal with little reaction can make you piss your pants in a panic stop, maybe the Akebono are better but still not an abrasive pad compound like the SM pads.

The extra time cleaning the rims this morning was a PIA

I see your point but honestly I'm not panic braking a whole lot and when I do, I'm kicking the pedal with full force and I will just lock up the tires anyway and slide into something. Also the lack of initial bite is not as profound as we might be describing here, they still grab and brake just fine lol.

If your initial bite is strong than I don't think you're getting a linear pedal feel since you get that initial hump. For me, this is just an uncomfortable way to drive everyday and I didn't like having to gently tap the brake pedal only to be thrown forward in the vehicle. With the Akebonos, I can gently tap the pedal and not be thrust forward while getting a light brake application. Push a little harder and they stop just as strong. I like them.

Hard to describe with words. I say if you're looking for lower dust and that is somewhat important to you, give the Akebono's a shot. They're cheap and easy enough to swap out if you don't like them.

[rcprato]

A4x I guess I am not describing the pedal feel correctly, I get braking response as soon as I apply pressure to pedal and it is constant (linear) all the way to a complete stop or point I no longer need braking. There is no strong initial surge of braking when pedal is applied that fades after initially applying pressure with brake pedal.

The Hawk pads I had and also some ceramic pads many years ago had no braking action when initially applied sometimes and took a couple seconds to develop stopping power.

I need new front rotors and pads in next couple of months and may try the Akebono Euro pads for our cars, if after a few months I don't like them I can easily switch to a Textar or similar SM pad with same rotors.

[frankjcrow]

A4x I guess I am not describing the pedal feel correctly, I get braking response as soon as I apply pressure to pedal and it is constant (linear) all the way to a complete stop or point I no longer need braking. There is no strong initial surge of braking when pedal is applied that fades after initially applying pressure with brake pedal.

The Hawk pads I had and also some ceramic pads many years ago had no braking action when initially applied sometimes and took a couple seconds to develop stopping power.

I need new front rotors and pads in next couple of months and may try the Akebono Euro pads for our cars, if after a few months I don't like them I can easily switch to a Textar or similar SM pad with same rotors.

FWIW, I think the Audi brakes on my Allroad are actually a bit more bitey than I'd like. But I have been figuring that was because I was coming from an older and heavier car (the A6 Avant). Also, they were just replaced, so I thought that might have something to do with it. I hear a lot of people liking the Akebono pads, so I'm very likely to give them a try. Less initial bite is probably better for me anyway.

[MyDimeIsUp]

Hhaha if you think your price was bad, when my recalls were finished for my B8.5 allroad I was quoted $965 for front brake pads. NOT ROTORS... just brake pads.