Pros and Cons of a used B8.5

[jzuck]

Hello all,

My (ex)girlfriend and I had purchased a 2015 Audi A4. Now that we have split she wants to sell the car. I can buy the car for 12k. The car has 99,500 miles on it. I currently have a 2018 Subaru Outback that I bought new. Ive owned Audis in the past. I know the B8s had issues with the timing chain and the B8.5 corrected a lot of those issues but I assume at 100k it will still need to be replaced. I just dont want to make a poor financial decision on a car as I dont really need it. Its been trouble free for a year. The carfax showed no crazy issues. It only had to go in for regular maintenance.

What maintenance should I expect on the car? Should I offload it?

Thanks

Edit: I had bought the Subaru before I met the girl I was dating. She wanted to drive my Subaru and kept taking it leaving me with her old beaten up Hyundai. So I said she should buy me a car id actually want to drive. She asked what I wanted and I said an A4. I used to have a B5 A4 2.8 Quattro. White with Brown and Tan interior and I loved it. My friend had borrowed it and when he had parked it and there was a flood and the car was messed up. So insurance had taken care of it and I moved to a new car but always wanted the car back. So when she had said ok to buying an A4, i found this 2015 A4 showed up and it was white with a brown and tan interior and was like I want it. Carfax was clean. It had only needed regular maintenance. So I was sold and she went and bought it. We broke up and now she wants to sell it. I can buy it but she wants 12 for it and isnt willing to budge on the number at least for me. I just know that the big maintenance is coming up. So adding 300 a month and then the maintenance costs just seems like a lot. I figured Id get some opinions before purchase.

[MyDimeIsUp]

Hello all,

My (ex)girlfriend and I had purchased a 2015 Audi A4. Now that we have split she wants to sell the car. I can buy the car for 12k. The car has 99,500 miles on it. I currently have a 2018 Subaru Outback that I bought new. Ive owned Audis in the past. I know the B8s had issues with the timing chain and the B8.5 corrected a lot of those issues but I assume at 100k it will still need to be replaced. I just dont want to make a poor financial decision on a car as I dont really need it. Its been trouble free for a year. The carfax showed no crazy issues. It only had to go in for regular maintenance.

What maintenance should I expect on the car? Should I offload it?

Thanks

Listen, I love Audis, I'd consider myself to be a little bit of a fanboy but don't dump a Subaru Outback for a B8.5 unless you really want an Audi. No matter the fact that the B8.5 fixed the timing chain issues, the chain still stretches. If you really want to buy the B8.5, get an OBDeleven or VAGCOM and check the timing chains stretch by checking "phase adaptation bank 1". Anything above 5 I'd consider getting a new timing chain. If you don't want to do that, you can go under the car and pop the inspection port off and take a photo of the timing chain tensioner and post it here to see how many notches it is on. If there was a timing chain service done, then I guess you can consider it; I would consider getting it. Just expect to do some scheduled maintenance items like spark plugs, DSG fluid, and all that stuff it it hasn't already been done.

[dalmation53]

DSG fluid? you Means ZF 8speed fluid. Only the S4 comes DSG 7 speed.

[FlyPenFly]

If I were to buy a used Audi of that era 2.0T, I would make sure it had the timing chain service done and turbo wastegate serviced or else I'd only buy an Audi with a 3.0T....

I had a B7 for several years and it was perfect. This one, jesus F christ... CVT replaced, center bearing replaced, drive shaft replaced, all shocks replaced, all upper and lower control arms replaced, timing chain and tensioner done, turbo is being replaced right now... and it eats about a quart per 2k miles... definitely the most unreliable car I ever owned. lol. Soured me on the car and the brand but now that all the parts are new, I am kind of too deep into it to sell it.

I think I'll be sticking to Porsches and Mercs in the future.

[MyDimeIsUp]

DSG fluid? you Means ZF 8speed fluid. Only the S4 comes DSG 7 speed.

Yes thank you. A little bit of a late night for me. Forgot my iPhone passcode (or God just decided to fuck with me tonight) so kinda been a shitty hectic night.

[captain_video]

I bought a 2014 B8.5 with about 42k on it and so far I love it. Bought it about three years ago and only have about 60k on it now. I drove a 1999 VW Passat B5 1.8T for over 15 years (also bought used) and I loved it. The A4 with the 2.0T absolutely blows it away in terms of performance. I know the 2.0T gets a lot of bad press from oil problems and a few other issues, but I absolutely love this car. Timing chain stretch is just normal wear and tear on a car and something I would consider routine maintenance. I've changed enough timing belts on B5s (I've owned three of them) to know about that. Knowing what to expect from a car is half the battle before making a purchase. You're already personally familiar with the car so you're in a good position to make a more informed decision than most people. If you're OK with having to replace the timing chain and tensioners then I don't see a problem with buying it. My B5 doesn't use any excess oil in between oil changes (done every 5k) so it appears that they fixed that problem with the B8.5 models. At 100k you should be checking brakes and suspension for any problems. Control arm bushings and ball joints would be a primary concern here.

[ELaw]

Hello all,

My (ex)girlfriend and I had purchased a 2015 Audi A4. Now that we have split she wants to sell the car. I can buy the car for 12k. The car has 99,500 miles on it. I currently have a 2018 Subaru Outback that I bought new. Ive owned Audis in the past. I know the B8s had issues with the timing chain and the B8.5 corrected a lot of those issues but I assume at 100k it will still need to be replaced. I just dont want to make a poor financial decision on a car as I dont really need it. Its been trouble free for a year. The carfax showed no crazy issues. It only had to go in for regular maintenance.

What maintenance should I expect on the car? Should I offload it?

Thanks

I don't quite know how to put this, but are you buying the whole car or just buying out her half? For "average" trim level and equipment, KBB private party value for a '15 A4 is right around $12K. So if you already own half of it, paying $12K for the other half is nuts.

Other than that... the car hitting 100K miles definitely does not mean you need to replace the timing chains. My '12 has about 111K on it, and measuring chain stretch as described in this thread: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ser-adaptation, my chain is only about 3/4 worn.

I guess I'd say if the car's been reliable, has been well maintained, you like it, and the price is sensible (per above), hang onto it! But as others have posted, it does depend on your priorities... in general an Audi will not be as reliable as a Subaru.

[Theiceman]

I don't quite know how to put this, but are you buying the whole car or just buying out her half? For "average" trim level and equipment, KBB private party value for a '15 A4 is right around $12K. So if you already own half of it, paying $12K for the other half is nuts.

Other than that... the car hitting 100K miles definitely does not mean you need to replace the timing chains. My '12 has about 111K on it, and measuring chain stretch as described in this thread: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ser-adaptation, my chain is only about 3/4 worn.

I guess I'd say if the car's been reliable, has been well maintained, you like it, and the price is sensible (per above), hang onto it! But as others have posted, it does depend on your priorities... in general an Audi will not be as reliable as a Subaru.

i was wondering about the half a car thing too.. but maybe he got the Subaru and she got the Audi so he has to buy the whole thing if he wants it ? .. you gotta think a 15 with 100K miles for about 12K is about right... although i totally disagree with the b8.5 fixed any issues. oil rings are same design as earlier cars so anything can happen. ( does have new tensioner but chain will still "stretch" ( wear)
I would say let her take it, you have your Subaru.
I have a 14 8.5 with 130K. needed new chains and all hardware, including cams as sprocket teeth were worn but i left those , rings needed replacing due to oil consumption, water pump needed replacing , motor mounts shot, .. sooooo its a gamble either way.

[sfl_A4]

Let her keep the Audi. Put your money into upgrades/maintenance for your Subie, or use it as a down payment on a newer car. With 100K you're probably coming up for some big expenses, notably the timing chain, the intake manifold (runner flaps), port and valve carbon cleaning, brakes, suspension, etc. Why bother.

My 2013 A4Q 6MT has 78K and I'm nursing it now since I don't drive to work during COVID, but I just did the carbon cleaning about 8K miles ago, I just did brake pads and rotors myself last week, and I have been living with the P2004, P2015 manifold flap issue for a few months, which will cost another $600 in parts, not including labor. My roof liner is separating at the back on both sides, and I know the suspension will need work in ~25k, so it would need to be a labor of love to go much past 100K in a B8.5.

[MyDimeIsUp]

Let her keep the Audi. Put your money into upgrades/maintenance for your Subie, or use it as a down payment on a newer car. With 100K you're probably coming up for some big expenses, notably the timing chain, the intake manifold (runner flaps), port and valve carbon cleaning, brakes, suspension, etc. Why bother.

My 2013 A4Q 6MT has 78K and I'm nursing it now since I don't drive to work during COVID, but I just did the carbon cleaning about 8K miles ago, I just did brake pads and rotors myself last week, and I have been living with the P2004, P2015 manifold flap issue for a few months, which will cost another $600 in parts, not including labor. My roof liner is separating at the back on both sides, and I know the suspension will need work in ~25k, so it would need to be a labor of love to go much past 100K in a B8.5.

Or you could do what I did and just buy an allroad over 100k that already had timing chain done!

[audrobotic]

I think you need to move on. You have a nice Subaru. Say goodbye to the girlfriend and goodbye to the car.

[Theiceman]

I think you need to move on. You have a nice Subaru. Say goodbye to the girlfriend and goodbye to the car.

Gotta say im Curious to know which was more maintenance. I bet it was close.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app

[jzuck]

Gotta say im Curious to know which was more maintenance. I bet it was close.

The girlfriend.

[Theiceman]

The girlfriend.

Having a b8 thats saying something.
You're going to have so much time you won't know what to do with it all.

A Subaru and freedom

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app

[19birel]

If you have access to VCDS or OBDEleven you can check to see the cam phase adaptation and have a pretty good idea of the car's timing chain stretch. The adaptation value could be very low indicating that the chain is good for quite a while or on the high side indicating that it needs changed. Would be good info to have prior to purchase.

Also if the waterpump hasn't been done I would budget for that. Sounds like it could be a good car, but I wouldn't sell your Subaru to buy it.

Unless this is a second "fun" car for you, you are better off saving the money and swapping the Subaru for a lower mileage B9 generation A4, maybe even one covered by CPO, when you can afford to do so. If you're set on a B8.5, then I'd find another one with lower mileage.

[SaigonDesign]

$12k for a B8.5 with 100k miles seems high to me.

I have 2015 A4 with 40k miles, bought CPO, serviced at Audi under AudiCare until last year, new brakes/pads all round. I'm thinking of letting it go as I'm going WFH till at least next year. KBB on mine is $13k - 15k.

I wouldn't pay $12k for a 5-year old Audi with 100,000 miles on it. Sorry. Your girlfriend should keep "her" car.

[COar]

$12k for a B8.5 with 100k miles seems high to me.

I have 2015 A4 with 40k miles, bought CPO, serviced at Audi under AudiCare until last year, new brakes/pads all round. I'm thinking of letting it go as I'm going WFH till at least next year. KBB on mine is $13k - 15k.

I wouldn't pay $12k for a 5-year old Audi with 100,000 miles on it. Sorry. Your girlfriend should keep "her" car.

A quick browse on my local craigslist, and $12k is certainly not off base, even with 100k miles. I personally wouldn't buy a B8.5 with that mileage due to the major issues, but I have no doubt it would sell at that price.

[Misticvega]

and I have been living with the P2004, P2015 manifold flap issue for a few months, which will cost another $600 in parts, not including labor.

Try this for $60 instead: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...021071ecs01~a/

You can easily install yourself too. I haven't had a P2015 since.

[BrianVan]

Audi with 100k miles, and you have 12K to spend...walk away. Spend that money on something else..you'll get another 20k miles out of it if your lucky. You already have a car...dump the girlfriend and forget the car..you'll be happier in the long run...look for another car with 1/2 the mileage and another girl with 1/2 the "drama"....she's your ex...you own her nothing...she wants outta the car...let her sell to someone else to deal with the issues that are coming with a 100k A4.....

[Theiceman]

I say upgrade to a newer model...( in both cases).

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app

[SaigonDesign]

Autotrader shows $13k for 112k miles and about $15k for 50-60k miles around my neck of the woods, so YMMV.

KBB for 2015 A4 Prestige with all the bells and whistles ranges $10 - $12k max in excellent condition, so OP is basically at the high end for that mileage.

KBB for a 2015 Audi Premium at 40k miles is $14 - 15k in excellent condition.

I guess if you're going on Craigslist, you get a better deal, but I'd be hesitant to buy a car off Craigslist at that price point.

[Smac770]

Are these wagons or sedans? Sedans are dime a dozen and not worth the steel they are stamped on. The B8 wagon is the only thing out there in the USA for a mid-compact wagon that doesn't suck (pre-SPA V60, no interest; SPA V60, touch screens can kiss my $@#, as can Chinese ownership), so they will always add a premium. You want a good mid-compact wagon from the past 12 years, you have one and only one choice here.

[fastboatster]

Are these wagons or sedans? Sedans are dime a dozen and not worth the steel they are stamped on. The B8 wagon is the only thing out there in the USA for a mid-compact wagon that doesn't suck (pre-SPA V60, no interest; SPA V60, touch screens can kiss my $@#, as can Chinese ownership), so they will always add a premium. You want a good mid-compact wagon from the past 12 years, you have one and only one choice here.

e91 and f31 are saying hello and asking how much oil you have to add to b8 avant daily.

[Smac770]

Had BWM sold the F31 6cyl, I'd be all over it. But being just another 4cyl, with its own history of self-destruction (at least the F30 N20 engine), I see nothing where the BMW 3 wagon we got here is better or offers anything over the Audi B8 wagon for me to vacate the knowledge and tools I've already acquisitioned. And the cupholder sucks compared to the B8 one. :-) I smile, but it's true.

Didn't realize the E91 was offered here as late as it was (through 2012) and had the 3L 6. But 17/26 and 7.3 0-60 for the 328ix with 3L NA 6cyl? At least a tune on a turbo 4 can really boost the numbers; had a G35, not much you can do with an NA. And what happened to that VCDS caliber diag tool for the BMW owners? It seemed to disappear; what do they use over there these days?

E91 is a good looking car though. Guess it's not to be dismissed as non-existent, but I'd consider it as much as I'd consider the Volvo.

I'm at around 6k miles on the current oil change; still around 30% on the FID display. Once you fix all the crap Audi originally built, things are generally just fine.

[Theiceman]

yeah my 8.5 has been flawless... once i fixed everything lol.

[fastboatster]

Had BWM sold the F31 6cyl, I'd be all over it. But being just another 4cyl, with its own history of self-destruction (at least the F30 N20 engine), I see nothing where the BMW 3 wagon we got here is better or offers anything over the Audi B8 wagon for me to vacate the knowledge and tools I've already acquisitioned. And the cupholder sucks compared to the B8 one. :-) I smile, but it's true.

Didn't realize the E91 was offered here as late as it was (through 2012) and had the 3L 6. But 17/26 and 7.3 0-60 for the 328ix with 3L NA 6cyl? At least a tune on a turbo 4 can really boost the numbers; had a G35, not much you can do with an NA. And what happened to that VCDS caliber diag tool for the BMW owners? It seemed to disappear; what do they use over there these days?

E91 is a good looking car though. Guess it's not to be dismissed as non-existent, but I'd consider it as much as I'd consider the Volvo.

I'm at around 6k miles on the current oil change; still around 30% on the FID display. Once you fix all the crap Audi originally built, things are generally just fine.

Don't feel like addressing all the points since most of these can be found online, just need to comment on one thing - yeah, you do tend to accumulate the knowledge and some special tools while owning B8s and trying to DIY them. I learned a lot about how dcts work while owning my a4 3.0t aka "s4"). But it is a sunk cost fallacy, I would have been much better off investing in my own professional development rather than learning workarounds for a bunch of hoops Audi put into their cars. Take the cam girdles on 2.0t, 3.2 and 3.0t - why can't they be completely enclosed by the valve cover so that they effectively can't leak and you don't have to set the engine to tdc, remove the cam sprockets and do a bunch of stuff (on 3.0t, I think 2.0t is somewhat less involving) to reseal them? There's just a bunch of stuff like that which is supposed to make life more difficult such as component protection. Lastly, I'd pick n20 (only timing chains) over the ea888 (timing chains and bad piston rings).