Must use crush washer on oil change

[blkmz3]

So I did the 1st oil change today on the SQ5. I got some generic copper washers for the oil drain bolt but it still leaked. Went to VW dealer and got the right ones. I've owned 10+ cars (various OEs) and never had issues either re-using the washer or using a generic copper washer. These cars require the crush washer in the right size to confirm to the oil pan and bolt.

N0138157 - washer

[EvoToSQ5]

I think most of us do a top side oil change. I have yet to crack open the oil drain plug in the 2 years I’ve owned mine. The dealer I go to locally typically gives me a drain plug and crush washer with the filter free of charge.


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[djn876]

I think most of us do a top side oil change. I have yet to crack open the oil drain plug in the 2 years I’ve owned mine. The dealer I go to locally typically gives me a drain plug and crush washer with the filter free of charge.


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Same here, had the car since new in 2016 and never opened the drain plug. Always get out the full amount of oil too, sometimes need to fish a little with the suction tube but super easy.

[eruben123]

I've always gone through the bottom, don't feel fully comfortable with sucking the oil out. I order through (and work at) FCP Euro. We have kits together for the SQ5 specifically, including a new drain plug and crush washer for each oil change. I usually use this kit.

Also - FWIW - the FCP Euro Lifetime Replacement Guarantee applies to everything on the site including oil, meaning free oil changes for life less the cost of shipping your oil back to FCP Euro's location.

[blkmz3]

I've always gone through the bottom, don't feel fully comfortable with sucking the oil out. I order through (and work at) FCP Euro. We have kits together for the SQ5 specifically, including a new drain plug and crush washer for each oil change. I usually use this kit.

Also - FWIW - the FCP Euro Lifetime Replacement Guarantee applies to everything on the site including oil, meaning free oil changes for life less the cost of shipping your oil back to FCP Euro's location.

Thanks for the link. I do follow your channel and saw your DIY on the oil change. Walmart has Mobil 1 0w40 Euro for $22 (5qt jug) and Mobil 1 has $10 rebate right now for 5qt jugs so it's hard to beat. I think it's more convenience since Mobil 1 is readily available. I guess I'd have to compare shipping cost. Sounded like you are selling the SQ5 tho.

[MSq5]

Same here, had the car since new in 2016 and never opened the drain plug. Always get out the full amount of oil too, sometimes need to fish a little with the suction tube but super easy.

I've done it both ways on my 3.0T Q5. Always did from the bottom on other cars because the filter was there. First oil change on this one was from the bottom. OP is right, you must use a crush washer to seal the pan plug.

Then, realizing the filter was up top and that most here were vacuum draining from the dipstick tube, I got a metal Topsider. Big, mistake. The hand pump never sealed properly in the metal can. Slow as Christmas. Went back to bottom drain. For a while . . .

After doing some more research, I got the Schwaben tube set and an EWK pneumatic system that uses compressed air. The Schwaben tubes fit the EWK, which has standard size fittings. Since I had a 30 gallon compressed air tank system already, it was an easy choice. It will work with little pancake compressors, too, since it does not require a lot of volume. Just about any compressed air source with at least 90 psi will work.

It comes with automatic transmission fill fittings, a plus, as my ZF8 is due. Flip the valve one way for vacuum drain, the other way for pressure fill. Easy, no pumping, super quick. Obviously, no need for pressure fill with oil bottles and a funnel, but it will be great for the transmission.

The EKW seems to be on back order at the moment for those interested. Probably a COVID supply chain thing that will resolve when things normalize.

[Novarider]

I used to do vacuum changes on my A4 but after seeing a couple people get those tubes stuck in the block I went back to using the drain plug. I know it's a different engine but same concept. I bought a bunch of plugs for $1 each from fcpeuro and they came with new washers.

[dubgli]

I used to do vacuum changes on my A4 but after seeing a couple people get those tubes stuck in the block I went back to using the drain plug. I know it's a different engine but same concept. I bought a bunch of plugs for $1 each from fcpeuro and they came with new washers.

I extract my oil as well with an ecs kit I bought a while back. Every 3rd oil change I drain.

Funny you mention this, my last oil change my cousin got the tube stuck. Just gently twisted and pulled and it finally came out.

I was sweating bullets thinking how much this would cost to fix. Always measure the length with the actual dip stick.

- dubgli

[MSq5]

I extract my oil as well with an ecs kit I bought a while back. Every 3rd oil change I drain.

Funny you mention this, my last oil change my cousin got the tube stuck. Just gently twisted and pulled and it finally came out.

I was sweating bullets thinking how much this would cost to fix. Always measure the length with the actual dip stick.

- dubgli

I have some black electrical tape wrapped around the extraction tube to mark the proper depth. Actually about 1/2" deeper than the dipstick. That way I don't push it in too far.

[EvoToSQ5]

I have some black electrical tape wrapped around the extraction tube to mark the proper depth. Actually about 1/2" deeper than the dipstick. That way I don't push it in too far.

Can you give me a measurement on that? I don’t have a dipstick so I just slowly lower it down the tube. I have yet to get it stuck though.


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[MSq5]

Can you give me a measurement on that? I don’t have a dipstick so I just slowly lower it down the tube. I have yet to get it stuck though.


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The dipstick is 17.5" from tip to the flange that seats against the tube. Add 1/2" and mark your drain tube at 18".

BTW, because the oil level sensor and hood switch are notoriously unreliable, I strongly recommend you get a real dipstick and use it to avoid the all-too-common overfilling. MMI often tells owners their car is a quart low, when it is not.

[EvoToSQ5]

The dipstick is 17.5" from tip to the flange that seats against the tube. Add 1/2" and mark your drain tube at 18".

BTW, because the oil level sensor and hood switch are notoriously unreliable, I strongly recommend you get a real dipstick and use it to avoid the all-too-common overfilling. MMI often tells owners their car is a quart low, when it is not.

Is that the oem dip stick or aftermarket? I see FCP offers both and the aftermarket is half the cost. I like the ECS one but I don’t know how I feel about paying $70 for a dip stick.


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[djn876]

I have the ECS one and to be honest it is kind of hard to read, and gets super hot because the handle is metal. Probably would get OEM if I could do it again.

The MTC one on FCP will work just fine I'm sure. If it makes you feel better, just don't leave it in and carry it in the trunk just to check level at a gas station or something.

[MSq5]

Is that the oem dip stick or aftermarket? I see FCP offers both and the aftermarket is half the cost. I like the ECS one but I don’t know how I feel about paying $70 for a dip stick.


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I believe it to be OEM part purchased from ECS. If you look close you can see the four interlocking Audi circles logo just below the flange. However, it is orange at the top. Genuine Audi is yellow, I recall. I don't know if color has changed over time. It appears identical.