Planning a B8 to B8.5 Engine Swap - looking for advice

[Christianmacart]

Hey everyone,

My 2010 B8 Avant with 90k miles has finally succumbed to the dreaded oil consumption and piston rod problems. Took it to an independent mechanic, who quoted engine rebuild + labor to be between 13-17k. I’ve been following @a4_centaur, @lettuce, @brooks, and @misticvega’s build threads for their B8 to B8.5 engine conversions and am thinking of doing the same. I’m looking to acquire a low-mileage CPMA/CPMB motor currently have a CAEB and swap over the intake manifold + fuel rail, oil filter housing + accessory bracket, auxiliary water pump, and crankshaft position sensor. I saw that lettuce listed a few optional replacements (motor mounts, rear main seal, accessory belt + idler roller) that I’ll consider depending on the condition of the replacement engine. I’ve got a few questions that I’d love to get answers to:

-I’ve read that LKQ is the best place to buy used motors from, but I’ve read a lot of horror stories, too. Should I stick with the general consensus and go through LKQ, or should I be looking elsewhere?

- I’m looking for an engine with under 60k mileage, and ideally in the $2.5-3.5k range. Any suggestions on 2014 vs 2015 vs 2016, and CPMA vs CPMB?

- I’ve compiled a list of all the tools I’ll need (I’m an engineering student, so I’ve gotten my hands dirty, but this is my first big project on a car) but I’d love to get a concrete list of tools that I must have.

- I found the 2008-2015 B8 service workshop manual online as a free PDF, but I want to make sure that the “engine removal + installation” portion covers everything I need. Should I purchase the official manual from Audi Erwin instead?

- I’ve been referring to @lettuce and @misticvega’s lists for additional pieces I’ll need. Do I need to get OEM parts, or can I order any triple square bit, for example. These are what I have so far:
◦ Triple square bits

◦ Large 12 point sockets - 17/18/19mm for transmission bolts

◦ Motor mount bolts - 6 total (2 top, 4 bottom)

◦ 3 flywheel bolts

◦ Turbo oil / coolant line bolts

◦ Crush washers for turbo coolant lines

◦ 1 gallon coolants

◦ 5 qts of 0W-40 Mobil 1

◦ filter

◦ Replace 1x use hose clamps

Last, I’d love to be able to get advice from anyone who’s completed this swap or knows anything about it. I’m a mechanically-inclined guy (getting two engineering degrees right now) but I’ve only replaced basic things like headlight bulbs and oil on my A4. Thanks everyone

[Theiceman]

if you can tackle R and R an engine you should rebuild it yourself. i found the hardest part getting the damn engine in and out. 13-17K is ridiculous and what he really is telling you is he doesnt want to do it.
i would get some other quotes. Also be careful as b8.5s are starting to show more and more oil consumption every day and they have the same rings as the B8.
I would check with NitroViper as he recently rebuilt his and could tell you if its better ofr worse cheaper or more expensive than doing a swap

[Christianmacart]

Unfortunately I don't think I'm equipped to handle a rebuild - I'm learning towards steering away from this because I've heard more success going to 8.5 route, and ive got a limited budget. Other option, which I really don't want to do, is to part out the car, but if I can fix it with an 8.5 engine for under 5k then I'm gonna try to go that route.

[k.sigota]

I bought from LKQ and have zero issues. Got a 2015 motor from a q5. I have an LKQ local, though, and was able to get a pretty good deal.

I have never actually had a problem with LKQ. I've heard some stories, but never had issues and have dealt with them a little bit.

I couldn't possibly remember all the tools. It's a VAG car, and you'll need every last bit of VAG tools.

Mark EVERY wire. I just number coded. Same number on each side of the connector. I think I ended up with 32 connectors, and still missed some. Take pictures. The wiring was the only difficult part for me. That and the heat shroud for the exhaust manifold. I had to get the grinder out and "modify" an Allen wrench.

[NitroViper]

That and the heat shroud for the exhaust manifold. I had to get the grinder out and "modify" an Allen wrench.

I said F*** that bolt and left it out on the rebuild. What a dumb place and size bolt to go there.

[Benji16]

This is my oil consumption after an oil change 559 miles later and it had drained that tiny bit. 20200720_160245.jpeg20200720_160249.jpeg

[Theiceman]

Thats nothing. I would have added 3 quarts by now

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[k.sigota]

Just read through your list again. IMO I would change the rear main seal and do carbon cleaning while you have it all out.

Doubt check chains and tensioner. Yes...theoretically it should be ok, but...

I discharged my ac when removing the engine. Just wanted everything out of the way.

[k.sigota]

Thats nothing. I would have added 3 quarts by now

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Mine was quite a bit worse, too.

OP - have you changed pcv and everything already, or are you going straight to the engine?

[Christianmacart]

I'm planning on going straight to the engine. My notes from the diagnosis I got was that there was a blown rod that contributed to the engine knocking, as well as the general oil consumption problems. Probably quite a bit of carbon buildup I'd assume as well.

So I want to go straight to the engine and get a CPMA/CPMB in there soon. I got a quote of ~$2k for removal of CAEB and installation of new..... Most engines on LKQ are 3.5-4k, but I've read of a decent number of users snagging them for low to mid 2's. Either gonna replace it myself and rent the tools or bit the bullet and have the shop install

[NitroViper]

You can easily remove that engine and install a new one in one day if you mark the wires and plugs. Take off the bumper and remove the 6 bolts holding the front end on. Get a long bolt to put into one of the holes so you can slide the front end back and forth, you dont need to take it off. There is tons of room to remove that engine. I had my engine out in 2.5 hours.

[fastboatster]

You can easily remove that engine and install a new one in one day if you mark the wires and plugs. Take off the bumper and remove the 6 bolts holding the front end on. Get a long bolt to put into one of the holes so you can slide the front end back and forth, you dont need to take it off. There is tons of room to remove that engine. I had my engine out in 2.5 hours.

had a brief look at this video and some others, some eccentricity aside, it has very good content and might be very useful to somebody who wants to do an engine R&R. no way this is a one-day job if you don't have a lift, though.

[GTA_G20]

You don’t need very many tools to remove the engine but some things I see missing are

16mm 12pt socket
18mm 12 socket
Both of these are for the engine to transmission bolts

17 and 19 aren’t needed

You also need either a stubby or very shallow 16mm socket or 16mm box end offset wrench to remove the 3 bolts to the flex plate so the engine physically separates from the transmission

Other than that should be basic tools from a craftsman kit will get you everything you need. Engine mounts are 18mm 12pt if I’m not mistaken. I went through the wheel well for those.

Good luck.


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[Smac770]

engine mount to engine bracket bolt is a M12 (iirc) XZN (triple square), but it does have a hex outer head so you could drive it with a 6pt socket I guess.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ach/n91148901/

The chassis to mount to retaining plate bolt is a 6pt; the retaining plate to chassis bolt is a M8 (iirc) XZN. No idea if there's value to clearing the mounts and plates when pulling the engine out.

The trans to block and torque converter to flywheel/flexplate are 12pt. These are the three you remove inside the bell housing?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ach/n91143203/