2016 Audi A3 Technik S-Line: Brake Job

[bakedcorn]

Hi all....

Apologies if this is another post that’s been beaten to death. If necessary I’ll repost where indicated.

Looking to replace all four corners of the wife’s A3 in the coming days and I’m reaching out to you all for some basic information.

I’m about to pull the trigger on the following parts from a local parts distributor here in Ontario.

Front:
Zimmerman 312x25
TRW pads

Rear:
Zimmerman 272x10
TRW pads

Caliper bolts
Front x 4
Rear x 4

515CAD with taxes and delivered.

I’ll be using Carista to retract or set the service position of the rear ebrake.

I have a couple of questions prior to performing the work:

1. Are the front and rear caliper bolts a one time use item? I found some information online but it does not specify the vehicle model etc:

“Front brake carrier to wheel bearing housing is 196NM, always renew if removed.”

“Rear brake carrier to wheel bearing housing is
100NM + 90, always renew.”

I’ve searched online with mixed results, some say to replace and others say not required and to reuse them.

2. What is the difficulty level for the rear brake rotors and pads replacement? I’ve been told they are a complete pain in the ass given how everything is so jammed pack back there.

Given the crap winters here in Ontario it would make sense to replace the rear bolts given the hex bolt design and the accumulation of rust etc.

If the caliper bolts are required then so be it but I also don’t want to be spending money on items I don’t need. The bolts are roughly 5CAD each vs 9CAD at the local VW shop.

As usual I appreciate any feedback.

Please be safe out there given the current pandemic.

Thanks




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[sjeanbart]

Hi!
I live in Québec and I re-use the same bolts without any issue on my 2016 A3 s-line when I did my front brake job last year and rear 2 months ago. You need triple square sockets for the rear calipers carrier.
Check to see if you could get your hands on a set of S3 calipers. This is what I did and it looks much better then our rusted unpainted A3 calipers and does brake a bit better. Of course, you would have to get bigger rotors but since you are replacing everything...
Let me know if I can help you more.

[sjeanbart]

By the way, both front and rear brakes are pretty easy to replace. Take the opportunity to bleed the calipers since you are already there.

[Sv2k]

1. Rear bolts are one time use only for sure. Front I am not certain. I reused all of mine. You can torque them slightly less to avoid over stretching them or breaking.

2. Rear is a pain for sure if you decide to take the carrier off. You don’t have to. You should be able to take the rotors off with the carrier bracket left in place. If you decide to take them off to clean and replace the bolts, make sure you have M14 triple square socket that will fit there. You’ll need to apply a lot of torque and there is very little room between the wheel assembly and the frame. Audi makes a special tool just for that.

Also do not twist the rear piston when you push it in. Retract the parking brake with Carista/OBD11/VCDS and push it with a clamp or piston tool. There is a delicate screw mechanism that can get messed up and you’ll be looking to replace the caliper.


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[Sv2k]

This is what inside of the rear caliper piston with electronic parking brake looks like.

I had hard time retracting the piston possibly because I was rotating it while pushing it with the caliper tool. In desperation I decided to cycle the maintenance mode with the caliper removed, which is a big no no, and it popped the piston out. After taking the caliper off and pulling it apart in an attempt to put the piston back together I found all those springs and ball bearings inside the brake cylinder. So, after buying a new caliper, looking over the EPB mechanism, and reading the repair manual I released my mistakes.

So, don’t end the maintenance mode with the caliper removed as there is nothing to stop the piston from popping out. And don’t twist the piston while pushing it in as it’s not necessary once the parking brake is fully retracted. The piston slides freely up and down over the threaded insert. This is also the method the repair manual says to use.

Hope this helps and good luck.


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[soulflyer]

Sent you an PM.

[bakedcorn]

Good stuff, thanks for the insight and information y’all


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[1killera4]

I have a question. A guy I work with said when doing the back brakes you can do a "Work around" the Electric Parking Brake by disconnecting the battery. Is that a true statement? My back brakes are almost ready for replacement.

[Sv2k]

I have a question. A guy I work with said when doing the back brakes you can do a "Work around" the Electric Parking Brake by disconnecting the battery. Is that a true statement? My back brakes are almost ready for replacement.

Not sure what he means by work around, work around for what? If he means retracting parking brake without OBD11/VCDS/Carista, then, yes, it’s possible, but I wouldn’t recommend it.


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[1killera4]

Not sure what he means by work around, work around for what? If he means retracting parking brake without OBD11/VCDS/Carista, then, yes, it’s possible, but I wouldn’t recommend it.


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(work around someone/something) to deal successfully with a person or problem that might prevent you from achieving your aim
A skilled craftsman can work around these difficulties.

Thanks.

[MikTip]

The Z23 brake pads I bought came with new bolts...

[Sv2k]

The Z23 brake pads I bought came with new bolts...

Yes, my z23 fronts came with replacement caliper bolts. I reused the carrier bolts. I think they are 21mm.

My z23 fronts did not come with a pad wear sensor. I reused my old one since it was not worn out and in good shape.

OP, may want to make sure you have a replacement sensor if front pads are low.


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[bakedcorn]

Yes, my z23 fronts came with replacement caliper bolts. I reused the carrier bolts. I think they are 21mm.

My z23 fronts did not come with a pad wear sensor. I reused my old one since it was not worn out and in good shape.

OP, may want to make sure you have a replacement sensor if front pads are low.


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Hey....the kit I’m purchasing does come with the wear sensor and the caliper bolts. Being in Ontario, kind of limited to product unless one is ready to pay the exchange rates and shipping etc. So far the Zimmermans and TRW’s are holding up fine on the S3.



The carrier bolts are another concern however I may simply replace the rears as they seem to be torque to yield so stretching them further may be an issue knowing my luck - 🤪


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[bakedcorn]

I ordered the parts and now awaiting confirmation of delivery.

However I’ve read some threads whereby there is a requirement to hook up a battery tender to the car due to spikes in voltage levels or battery drain. I don’t get the battery drain.

Also I have Carista and will be using it to place the EPB into the service position however again all the information I read out there is this:

Turn the car on and go to the Carista option.... ???
Turn the car on as in turn it over or turn it on as if to obtain codes from the OBDII dongle?

I’m old skool so turning the car on means an engine start and placing the car into AUX is not.

Thanks


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[Sv2k]

I ordered the parts and now awaiting confirmation of delivery.

However I’ve read some threads whereby there is a requirement to hook up a battery tender to the car due to spikes in voltage levels or battery drain. I don’t get the battery drain.

Also I have Carista and will be using it to place the EPB into the service position however again all the information I read out there is this:

Turn the car on and go to the Carista option.... ???
Turn the car on as in turn it over or turn it on as if to obtain codes from the OBDII dongle?

I’m old skool so turning the car on means an engine start and placing the car into AUX is not.

Thanks


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Just turn on the the car without ignition, on button without the brake. I suppose if you are worried that having the car on and running EPB motors for a few seconds will run down your battery, connect the tender. I had no issues, but my battery is also brand new.


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[bakedcorn]

...

[bakedcorn]

Just turn on the the car without ignition, on button without the brake. I suppose if you are worried that having the car on and running EPB motors for a few seconds will run down your battery, connect the tender. I had no issues, but my battery is also brand new.


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Thanks


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[bakedcorn]

So finished the fronts new rotors and pads and ready to move onto the rears. It was mentioned that the rear rotors could be replaced without removing the carrier however do I still need to break loose the carrier bolts or can I simply leave it and remove the rear rotors? If I need to break loose the bolts then I may be screwed as I won’t have the lift or leverage to do so and I know I’ll end up stripping the bolt(s).

Thanks


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[Sv2k]

So finished the fronts new rotors and pads and ready to move onto the rears. It was mentioned that the rear rotors could be replaced without removing the carrier however do I still need to break loose the carrier bolts or can I simply leave it and remove the rear rotors? If I need to break loose the bolts then I may be screwed as I won’t have the lift or leverage to do so and I know I’ll end up stripping the bolt(s).

Thanks


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No, just leave the carriers and the bolts alone. You should be able to remove the small torx T25 screw holding the rotor to the hub, break loose the rotor and angle it out and away from the carrier.


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[bakedcorn]

No, just leave the carriers and the bolts alone. You should be able to remove the small torx T25 screw holding the rotor to the hub, break loose the rotor and angle it out and away from the carrier.


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Amazing, you all rock!




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[bakedcorn]

Just wanted to provide an update....

Attempted to replace the rear rotors and pads and unfortunately I was not able to remove the rotors due to the carrier. I attempted every possible maneuver to remove the rotor - no joy.

I’m tempted to give it another go however given the huge “honey do” list I may just need to hand it over to the shop down the street to get her done for 150 bucks.




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[Sv2k]

Just wanted to provide an update....

Attempted to replace the rear rotors and pads and unfortunately I was not able to remove the rotors due to the carrier. I attempted every possible maneuver to remove the rotor - no joy.

I’m tempted to give it another go however given the huge “honey do” list I may just need to hand it over to the shop down the street to get her done for 150 bucks.




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Sorry for the confusion. When I did mine on A3 I took carriers off. Later, in a different thread it was brought up that it’s possible to do on S3, video below. S3 rear brakes are different a bit, though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7ziAOmuc8E&t=328s


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[bakedcorn]

Sorry for the confusion. When I did mine on A3 I took carriers off. Later, in a different thread it was brought up that it’s possible to do on S3, video below. S3 rear brakes are different a bit, though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7ziAOmuc8E&t=328s


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Nah it’s all good. It’s a learning moment - now I know for next time.

As per the vid, yeah those rotors are shaped differently than the A3 - damn you Audi. Lol.


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