2010 Rough Idle

[Deerhurst]

My mom has a 2010 A4 2.0T. Got a call from my dad last night saying it just started having a super rough idle. He said it was bad enough he worries it'll stall. Said it did fine on the highway.

I have not had a chance to look personally.

I have not been able to use VCDS on it. I live ~150 miles away.

I suggested fuel filter (probably original with 200k+ miles on it) and N80 valve. Sounds like a massive vacuum leak to me.

Anything else you guys recommend?

[Theiceman]

It does sound like a vacum leak but I would not start throwing stuff at it. Inspect the entire air intake ductwork for cracks or leaks.

Pcv might be suspect also..

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app

[Smac770]

runs fine at speed, rough idle, if he were seeing the flashing MIL for misfires, tell him to pull the dipstick cap and see if the idle smooths out, if so, it's the PCV diaphragm. Though usually if that's the case, you also notice a super loud high pitch whistle (from the little hole on the back of the round PCV cap, which if you also cover, the idle should smooth out too).

[Deerhurst]

I believe he said CEL is lit.

It's going to get a fuel filter anyways. I'm sensitive to that since my B6 is sensitive to that and his has 200,000+ miles on it. N80 is $15 so I don't feel bad throwing one at it. Especially since they will probably keep it another 10+ years.

I'll have him do the dipstick check.

Thanks guys! I'll update as it goes.

[Smac770]

Keep in mind that the N80 on the B8 is a complete line set. You can get the N80 itself for cheap, but you'd have to cut it into the existing lines; they are not made to be separated from the N80.

06H133781 AL -> CB -> CK
https://www.genuineaudiparts.com/oem...se-06h133781ck

Original style, https://wolfautoparts.com/vacuum-lin...al-311701.html
Current style, https://wolfautoparts.com/vacuum-lin...cb-320020.html

The revision is a lot easier to deal with, but you're going to have to loosen the fuel pump hard line to get the old style out without dismounting the intake manifold.

[Deerhurst]

So, PCV and N80 are good. The part of the actuator for the flaps in the intake is falling out. The bit that holds onto the vacuum motor arm is coming out of the intake. Runs fine with that seated back in place. Idles like crap when it comes out. Intake manifold is the old style.

Can't seem to find a screw head inside to hold it back in place. Doesn't mean it isn't there but the flap is damaged.


Is that an intake manifold replacement? Is there a fix?

[Smac770]

Yeah, common failure point. For a long while, I just made a bracket that kept the arm pressed into the manifold. Mounted it to the engine hoist hook there above the spot of interest. Eventually replaced it with a new manifold. ECS sells a "repair" kit to keep the arm forced in also; technically requires dismounting the manifold to install it.

If you can find an AN revision manifold, run with that. But the current manifold is the revision AT, at a beyond stupid price. Thus a lot have been using the transverse manifold, revision BH.

https://www.genuineaudiparts.com/oem...ld-06h133201an , so they say they still have it.
https://www.genuineaudiparts.com/oem...ld-06j133201bh , but we see this is still a decent bit cheaper; I forget the caveats to make this apply, if any
https://www.genuineaudiparts.com/oem...ld-06h133201at , that price is absurd

[Deerhurst]

I was reading that the TSI intake works fine, just one of the emissions controls mounts in a different location. Apparently there is roughly a $400 difference in cost between that and the part that says it works for the 2.0T in the A4.

I'll do some looking around. Thank you for the help. I may design and print a bracket so it doesn't pop out on my dad on his way home tomorrow. I'll let him know what his options are so we can get it fixed. My mom loves her little B8 so I kinda gotta fix it.

[Smac770]

The are all "TSI", ie, chain driven EA888 engines. Versus the FSI and T-FSI EA113 belt driven engines such as in the B7. "but my engine cover says TFSI". Yep.

[Theiceman]

The are all "TSI", ie, chain driven EA888 engines. Versus the FSI and T-FSI EA113 belt driven engines such as in the B7. "but my engine cover says TFSI". Yep.

yeah what a cluster fuck the naming convention is .

[Smac770]

Yeah, not sure where the TSI term came from. The Audi and VW SSPs on the release of the EA888 call them TFSI, which makes sense, sort of. Audi dumped the stratification when they went from FSI to TFSI, but whatever.

https://www.seat.com/car-terms/t/tsi-technology.html
SEAT is a VAG company. The seem to use TSI for some turbochaged+supercharged+(direct)injected engine.

But in the end, I think someone just couldn't handle four letters and abbreviated the acronym to TSI, to match in with TDI and FSI. So TSI and TFSI should be considered interchangeable. And thus a poor set of terms for differentiating an EA113 from an EA888.

[Deerhurst]

The car has 209,700 miles as of when my dad took it home this morning so it'll be close to 210k when he gets home.

Designed and 3D printed a PETG cap to help hold that arm in place. He said he lost the first one somehow within the first 10 miles. We had already done a 20+ mile test with all sorts of load and throttle positions to see if it would stay. He said the next one lasted and was still on there when he got home over the pass. Hopefully that'll hold it off so they can use the car if absolutely necessary until they tell me what they want to do with it. I don't know if they will want me to fix it or if they will have someone else do the work rather than try to limp it back over the pass to me and hope it doesn't fail during the 3+ hour drive.

[whats77inaname]

This resolved the issue for me:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...021071ecs01~a/

10K+ miles and counting at this point.

[Deerhurst]

This resolved the issue for me:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...021071ecs01~a/

10K+ miles and counting at this point.

I didn't know they made anything like that! That's basically a high tech version of the snap on plastic thing I designed and made! Probably holds up better than my rushed design.

[whats77inaname]

I didn't know they made anything like that! That's basically a high tech version of the snap on plastic thing I designed and made! Probably holds up better than my rushed design.

Yeah, I didn't either when the P2015 code first popped up. I wasn't too keen on having to spend $ on a manifold that at some point would experience the same issue. Took a couple days searching before I stumbled on this, literally. I posted about it in my build thread https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...1#post14082435, but stuff like this gets lost in the mix. Anyways, I can personally vouch for this part, so if you're not sure about your part holding, this will do the trick. One of those screws is a *pain* to get in due to placement, but it's doable (once you get some bolt cutters and literally cut the included hex key in half),



and more importantly, it works.

[Smac770]

I think that "one of those screws" part is why ECS says the manifold has to come off to mount that fix.

[whats77inaname]

I think that "one of those screws" part is why ECS says the manifold has to come off to mount that fix.

Actually, the instructions included at the bottom of the item page don't mention pulling the manifold at all. I know I didn't, lol, which is one of the things that made this so attractive to me.

Here's a quick rundown of what we'll be doing:
• Remove the engine cover and the air intake.
• Locate the runner flap lever arm.
• Install the appropriate Teflon™ spacer and the aluminum fix cap.
• Fasten the fix cap using the three set screws and the allen key.
• Reinstall the engine cover and the air intake.

http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...llation_R1.pdf

[Smac770]

The instructions are clearly for a transverse mounted engine. The web page says in several places "intake manifold must be removed". ECS should correct their web page or provide relevant instructions supporting their web page statement. But you've actually done it, and it didn't need any modification of the actual parts, just one of the tools? Good enough then for members to know they can ignore the stray warnings on the ECS product page.

[whats77inaname]

The instructions are clearly for a transverse mounted engine. The web page says in several places "intake manifold must be removed".

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...021071ecs01~a/ I guess I'm not seeing it.....can you screen print and show me where it says that? Because what you're saying doesn't make sense. IE, the instructions *are* clearly for a t-mounted engine.....which wouldn't require removal of the manifold b/c the arm is easily visible when the engine is mounted that way, not so much for the B8. And given that, why would they say "in several places" that the intake manifold must be removed?

ECS should correct their web page or provide relevant instructions supporting their web page statement. But you've actually done it, and it didn't need any modification of the actual parts, just one of the tools? Good enough then for members to know they can ignore the stray warnings on the ECS product page.

Stray warnings? Where? Are we looking at the same instructions? *lol* Most of us have shorter hex keys, as do I. Unfortunately, they were out of pocket at the time, so one has to do what they have to do. But, once again, there is nothing on their site or on the instructions that I see that indicates that the manifold has to come off.

[Smac770]

This is what I have always seen on the ECS page for that fix kit.

ECSpage.jpg

[whats77inaname]

This is what I've always seen, even when I was looking for it. I guess it's b/c you searched by car, and I didn't.
ecs.jpg

[Deerhurst]

My dad lost the rest of my prototype caps and ordered the cap off ECS. Too bad. With the proper dimensions I could have machined him one.

Hopefully that'll hold them over for a while. My dad wants to get rid of the car before it needs $$$$ put into it and mom wants to keep it forever. It's at 210k on factory basically everything. Around 100k it did get rings and pistons courtesy of Audi to fix the oil consumption issues. It's still on factory shocks, springs, bushings, clutch, etc.

[whats77inaname]

My dad lost the rest of my prototype caps and ordered the cap off ECS. Too bad. With the proper dimensions I could have machined him one.

Hopefully that'll hold them over for a while. My dad wants to get rid of the car before it needs $$$$ put into it and mom wants to keep it forever. It's at 210k on factory basically everything. Around 100k it did get rings and pistons courtesy of Audi to fix the oil consumption issues. It's still on factory shocks, springs, bushings, clutch, etc.

I hope they keep it. For necessary purchases, FCP Euro lifetime warranty ftw!

https://www.fcpeuro.com/page/lifetime-guarantee

[Deerhurst]

I hope they keep it too. If they don't I might just buy it and it'll be my toy and live in luxary with my B6 Avant.

[Deerhurst]

CEL is back for flap signal implausible. Im assuming the little drive socket on the arm has worn out from coming out several times.

Anyone have the PNs for the TSI intake that fits with a PCV relocation? I read something about this and how it is significantly cheaper than the PN for the A4.

[Smac770]

06J 133 201 BH

[Deerhurst]

Thanks man!